vincenzo Posted August 26, 2013 Posted August 26, 2013 The lake I fish has a bunch of submerged cover, anything from 100lb logs to pieces of jagged sheet metal. The braided line I currently have spooled on my bait caster is power pro #15 and it digs into itself constantly does fluorocarbon doe the same, would it be a good idea to switch or will I end up getting unexpected brake offs? Also does fluorocarbon have the same characteristics as mono that it likes to kink up and get tangled? Quote
Super User rockchalk06 Posted August 26, 2013 Super User Posted August 26, 2013 Bait caster or spinning reel? If its a bait caster, remember 15# braid has the diameter of #4 pound mono. If your running that small a diameter of line on a BC, your going to get the line digging in. I don't go any lower that 30# braid on BC's. 10-12 pound fluoro will not dig in either. Quote
Super User Jrob78 Posted August 26, 2013 Super User Posted August 26, 2013 Braid is great for leafy vegetation and grass but it isn't so good for hard cover. 15lb braid is way too light for a baitcaster. Fluoro has great abrasion resistance but isn't nearly as manageable as braid. Fluoro has a lot of memory and is prone to break-offs when kinked. You might be best going with mono unless you're prepared to deal with fluoro's memory. 1 Quote
Super User Bankbeater Posted August 26, 2013 Super User Posted August 26, 2013 I like fluoro. When I fished with braid in cover the problem was that when I hit a snag I had two choices. Go in and get the bait, or drag the limb back to the boat. Either way the spot I was trying to fish would be upset for a while. Quote
skeletor6 Posted August 26, 2013 Posted August 26, 2013 The lake I fish has a bunch of submerged cover, anything from 100lb logs to pieces of jagged sheet metal. The braided line I currently have spooled on my bait caster is power pro #15 and it digs into itself constantly does fluorocarbon doe the same, would it be a good idea to switch or will I end up getting unexpected brake offs? Also does fluorocarbon have the same characteristics as mono that it likes to kink up and get tangled? Whether your a braid or a fluoro guy this gentleman is describing the exact situation that fluorocarbon would call for. Sharp jagged material will wear heavy on braid as it possesses very poor abrasion resistance. For purchase follow the price hierarchy. InvizX < FC Sniper < shooter < tatsu. Do not buy cheaper than invizx. Your digging problems are a symptom of braided line. 15lb braid on a BC severely exaggerates that symptom and is a poor line choice. Quote
vincenzo Posted August 27, 2013 Author Posted August 27, 2013 im shocked that fluoro is more abrasion resistant then braid, shouldn't it be the other way around? iv always thought braid was the best for casting and durability Quote
vincenzo Posted August 27, 2013 Author Posted August 27, 2013 also what is the point of hi vis line Quote
Super User rockchalk06 Posted August 27, 2013 Super User Posted August 27, 2013 im shocked that fluoro is more abrasion resistant then braid, shouldn't it be the other way around? iv always thought braid was the best for casting and durability Imagine it like this. Braid is like your T-shirt. Run it against a brick rock or stick. Its made of fibers. They will catch, fray and pull apart when ran against something hard. Fluoro has a harder protective covering over it. It's more slick and does not have fibers to hang up. Its also guides smoother through the line guides and slides over brush, rocks and libs easier. I'm no expert, but I think that kinda explains it. hopefully someone one can explain it better. But yes, Braid is more supple, soft. It does last a long time, provided its not drug over rocks, zebra mussels. Braid has a much smaller diameter per pound test as compared to other lines. For instance, 40 pound braid is the same diameter as 10 pound mono. You can get superior break strength from the same diameter line. Smaller diameter line equals better cast ability, better bait presentation and allows you get more line on the reel. 1 Quote
Super User rockchalk06 Posted August 27, 2013 Super User Posted August 27, 2013 also what is the point of hi vis line Its for the operator to see. Most bottom contact baits require you do keep track of your line. If you have a jig on the bottom with some slack and the bass picks it up, you may not feel it, but you can see your line move. Quote
Arv Posted August 27, 2013 Posted August 27, 2013 So far everyone has given you good advice. I'll mostly echo what they have said so far. If you're going to stick with braid, go with a larger diameter. The lowest I go is 30#. The only time I experience digging with 30+ is when I'm pulling out from a snag, and even then that's a quick fix. If you do switch to fluorocarbon, don't skimp and buy cheap. Skeletor gave you good recommendations there. The scenario you've described would be better suited fluoro because of its abrasion resistance. The only thing that I'll add that I don't think I've seen mentioned yet is that you could go braid+fluoro leader. This would let you keep braid on your spool and simply tie on the leader when necessary. If you ONLY fish around rough pointy things, I would go straight flouro. If not, maybe consider both. Quote
Super User SirSnookalot Posted August 28, 2013 Super User Posted August 28, 2013 I only use braid except when I need to troll the twist out of my line. Using braid over rocks and coral my abrasion has been nothing out of the ordinary but it does happen, sharp gill plates will sever 40# mono the same as a thinner braid. I use braid in windy conditions with bottom baits, there is a bit of a knack to reducing the bow in the line, I don't feel I have a problem in detection. A larger fish is going to let me know it's there, missing a smaller one isn't worth my concern. 1 Quote
Super User *Hootie Posted August 28, 2013 Super User Posted August 28, 2013 I have used a few of the fluoros, that are noted for memory problems, and have found that a good dose of KVD Line contioner has always solved that issue, for me at least. Hootie Quote
down4ttown Posted August 28, 2013 Posted August 28, 2013 I use Braid with a flouro leader. Braid casts better, sits on the spool easier, and gives me more sensitivity when fishing with bottom baits. I use Flouro for all moving baits though. Quote
BridgerM Posted August 29, 2013 Posted August 29, 2013 Imagine it like this. Braid is like your T-shirt. Run it against a brick rock or stick. Its made of fibers. They will catch, fray and pull apart when ran against something hard. Fluoro has a harder protective covering over it. It's more slick and does not have fibers to hang up. Its also guides smoother through the line guides and slides over brush, rocks and libs easier. I'm no expert, but I think that kinda explains it. hopefully someone one can explain it better. But yes, Braid is more supple, soft. It does last a long time, provided its not drug over rocks, zebra mussels. Braid has a much smaller diameter per pound test as compared to other lines. For instance, 40 pound braid is the same diameter as 10 pound mono. You can get superior break strength from the same diameter line. Smaller diameter line equals better cast ability, better bait presentation and allows you get more line on the reel. but isn't fluro more more likely to break if it gets knicked? i've heard and read about fluoros great abrasion resistance but it seems like a very fragile line at the same time. Quote
skeletor6 Posted August 29, 2013 Posted August 29, 2013 Its a line that requires care. Yes if there are knicks or kinks in the line it can weaken the line most definitely. That's why FC users retie after a few fish and check their line periodically. Really its way overplayed. Ive gone out and fished 5+ rigged with tatsu and did not retie or have break offs all day. I went like this for 5 fishing trips. If I was fishing a tournament I may be more careful. Most frequent break offs are from cheap line or guides that are not smooth. Braid does outperform in grassy areas and is very strong per its diameter. I just would not use it for the sharp conditions you are describing. Quote
vincenzo Posted September 1, 2013 Author Posted September 1, 2013 but isn't fluro more more likely to break if it gets knicked? i've heard and read about fluoros great abrasion resistance but it seems like a very fragile line at the same time. that's what I think too I guess because iv always had horrible experiences with mono nd because they're similar in appearance I still feel like it carries the same characteristics as mono. Quote
vincenzo Posted September 1, 2013 Author Posted September 1, 2013 any suggestions for a good lb test fluoro to use for fishing cranks n plastics? Quote
Super User dodgeguy Posted September 1, 2013 Super User Posted September 1, 2013 i use suffix 832 and have zero abrasion problems.extreme sharp objects will cut it but they will cut any line.never use under 50 lb /12 diameter braid on a baitcaster.also dump the outdated powerpro.use powerpro superslick if you want to stick with that brand.sufix 832 imho is the most abrasion resistant braid.i've tried flouro lines and hate them. Quote
skeletor6 Posted September 2, 2013 Posted September 2, 2013 any suggestions for a good lb test fluoro to use for fishing cranks n plastics? I don't go heavier than 12lb. Line diameter plays a role in how deep the crank will go. Many use 15# for squarebill's and can go as low as 8 for deep divers. I have not found a need to go heavier than 12lb fluorocarbon. I believe that 12# is the best all-around size. I will reiterate, do not buy cheap fluorocarbon or you'll end up hating the stuff. I hate cheap FC. If I was forced to use that, i would be a braid guy. Just sayin. Quote
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