I Am The Proud New Owner Of A 1999 Cobra Viper 201D. I Have Pics! And Questions.

[pbrussell]

Woohoo! I now own a real bass boat. But, the thing is a little more complicated than my old fish and ski. So now, I also own a number of questions and a lighter wallet. 

Anyhow, here are some pictures.

 

 

I happen to think that she (she is a she, for now) is a very pretty boat. I am half way tempted to name the boat sharknado (or bassnado), but Jenny (inspiration from forrest gump) or Mr. Badass (if she becomes a he) are both high on the list. We'll work out the name later.

 

Anyhow, with new boat ownership comes new questions. And here they are!

 

 

I might be posting in this thread a lot, so here are the first ones I've got.

 

Livewells:

This boat has two buttons on the dash for livewells. Livewell 1, and livewell 2. Both have a manual and auto option. Keep in mind, this confuses me, as there appears to be only one large livewell in the back of the boat with a separator. 

I do not see a button for an aerator. There is also a toggle switch of sorts next to the throttle that reads "Recirc, empty, auto".

Livewell 1 switch does absolutely nothing on auto or manual. Livewell 2 switch appears to work on both  manual and auto settings. However, I have no idea how these livewells really work, what the difference is between the manual and auto settings, and what the switch recirculate, empty, and auto does to the livewell. Could someone walk me through all of this?

 

Jackplate:

I have a CMC powerlift jackplate (or at least it appears I do). I've never owned a boat with a jackplate. I was under the impression that jackplates raise the motor up or down and are usually hydraulic. However, as much as I have looked, I have not found a cylinder that raises the motor up or down. Nor have I found a button which does this. All four tilt/trim buttons on my boat (one button on motor, one button on throttle, one grafted in button on steering wheel, and one up front) only tilt the motor up and down. None of them move the motor up or down with the jack plate. Could this plate not be hydraulic and it need be adjusted manually? Could I not be finding the switch? Could the switch have been removed for some odd reason? Is it possible this thing isn't even a jackplate at all?

 

Trolling motor prop/noise:

I have a minn kota maxxum pro, 24v 80 pound thrust model. It's got some clicking noises coming from the prop, and I'm thinking it is because it has some play. It appears there is a lock nut on it. Could I have the wrong nut on the prop and that's the reason there's play/ a clicking noise? I really don't want to be scaring fish away because of a clicking trolling motor. It doesn't sound very good as it stands. Should I remove the prop and lube anything up inside there? If I were to get a new nut, is there a standard kind of nut minn kota puts on their props? I am REALLY hoping the trolling motor's internals are good.

 

Depth finders:

I have an older lowrance unit up with me on the dash. It doesn't have a built in graph or anything of that sort. I happen to own a hummingbird that has di/and a built in graph on my old boat. The transducer of the lowrance unit is on the passenger side of the boat. If I were to mount the humming bird somewhere next to the lowrance unit and mount the transducer on the passenger side of the boat, would they interfere with one another if they are on at the same time? 

 

Bank Charger:

The boat has the factory 3 bank charger, and each bank has 5 lights. When these lights are done cycling (or turn off) does that mean the battery is fully charged? 

 

Bilge Pump:

My dad is under the impression that when the bilge switch is toggled to auto, it should even run without the power switch toggled. Is that the case? Or, when you're docking your boat over night (say you're at a resort) do you just leave the bank charger plugged in with the bilge on auto and power switch toggled? I think I know the answer on this but I imagine he will want the answer in writing from someone more knowledgeable. 

 

I think that might be it for now, but I'm sure there will be more. 

thanks!

 

[Fishing Rhino]

On the bilge pump.  Auto should mean that it is wired through a float switch.  When the water reaches a level high enough, the float switch will turn the pump on, and then off when the level drops.  You may have a three way switch, off when the power supply to the pump is off.  Auto when the power is directed through the float, and manual when the power is routed directly to the pump, bypassing the float.  In some cases the manual position requires the switch to be held in order for the pump to be powered.

 

What brand is the charger?  It sounds like yours shows level of charge and when the battery is fully charged the lights turn off.

 

Pull the prop off your trolling motor and check to make sure nothing, such as fishing line is wrapped around the shaft.  Spin the shaft by hand.  If it still clicks, it's probably something internal.

 

There's no mistaking a jackplate.  It bolts to the transom, and the motor bolts to the jack plate.  Many jackplates are not hydraulic.  They will have a jacking bolt (at least that's what its called on stock cars) that will raise or lower the plate to which the motor is mounted.  In order to adjust the jackplate, you may have to loosen the bolts that secure the sliding mechanism.

 

Livewells, I can't be of much help there. 

[slonezp]

Could be a manual jack plate.

Livewells- Manual is same as fill/recirc ON. Auto is hooked up to a timer which will fill/recirc intermittently. Empty is your pumpout. I'm assuming livewell 1 and 2 are the aerator switches. It's possible they are only using one and the second switch is an option not on the boat.

Trolling motor-There will be some play. Remove the prop and check for fishing line and that the shear pin is straight if it's bent, replace it. You can buy replacements online for under a buck a piece. You can also try rotating the prop 180* when you reinstall it. DO NOT RUN the motor for very long outside of the water. MK uses Nyloc nuts on their props. I believe there is a Nyloc wingnut you can buy as well.

 

Nice rig. Looks real clean