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Posted

Whats your guys take on this? I've straightened out some pretty heavy wire hooks with 30# test. I don't know why you sould need a special knot tying zone. Or maybe I'm missing the point of this.

  • Super User
Posted

I'm a bit confused myself.

 

Is their idea that once I use up the 36 inches of reinforced section, that I'm supposed to cut off 20 ft of line to get to the next reinforced section before reattaching a lure or hook?  No thanks.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I don't like it.  

 

1 - After 2-3 reties you need to chop off 20 feet until you get to a new "tie zone"

2 - If you get hung up good luck ripping that thing off.  LOL

3 - I wonder how it will spool on a rod?  Are those "tie zones" harder, heavier, less pliable?

  • Super User
Posted

or they could just put instructions on how to tie a palomar knot on teh package and then the entire spool is a tie zone :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok good, so I'm not the only one thinking this doesn't make sense. Like I said, I've straightened heavy hooks with 30# test. I don't think I need a special "tie zone" to make sure my braid isn't going to fail on me... ON TOP of cutting out however many feet to get to the next tie zone...

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Left me a little confused, too. At first glance, it doesn't seem too well thought through.

  • Super User
Posted

That should keep you spending money on line.

No way Jose.

Hootie

Sounds like a money grab too me!  I don't even buy into the Super Slick, the ones I do have on reels came on the spool free when I purchased them.  Personally don't see the advantage of some of these "bling" features. 

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Ok good, so I'm not the only one thinking this doesn't make sense. Like I said, I've straightened heavy hooks with 30# test. I don't think I need a special "tie zone" to make sure my braid isn't going to fail on me... ON TOP of cutting out however many feet to get to the next tie zone...

Yeah, with 30 lb test I've actually pulled out 6 ft long tree branch that was submerged.  Of course I didn't use my rod or reel to bring it up.  (Wrapped the line around my arm to pull out the snag. )

Posted

Yeah, with 30 lb test I've actually pulled out 6 ft long tree branch that was submerged.  Of course I didn't use my rod or reel to bring it up.  (Wrapped the line around my arm to pull out the snag. )

Haha! I've done the same thing. The way it felt at first it may have still been attached to the tree before I ripped it off.

Posted

or they could just put instructions on how to tie a palomar knot on teh package and then the entire spool is a tie zone :)

Hahaha, nice one. I feel the same way as the rest of you guys, I've done some really really hard jerkin', snatchin' and pullin' on 50# braid and I've never had it break. Like has already been mentioned I've hauled all sorts of stuff off the bottom when snagged or straighten out the hook so I'm not real sure about the need for this product either. Maybe it's mainly designed for salt guys???  

 

At this point I think I'm on the bandwagon with the guys thinking this is more of a money grab type of deal.

Posted

Doesn't make sense to me either.  Especially since I tie a leader to my braid anyway.  No thanks.

Posted

I think this is more for the saltwater fisherman like the hollow core was.

Posted

I bet the flippers will like it, if they can afford new braid every week. Otherwise I see it as a waste of money. 

  • Super User
Posted

Could not say it was a good product or not without using it first.  Being primarily a saltwater fisherman using braided line the majority of time I'm not having any problem with the present knot strength, 20# braid is my most popular used.  What many of us do that's a bit different than freshwater fishing is the leader strength.  It's common for me to use a 30 or 40# leader with 20# braid, as long as a fish is pulling out drag the line or knot isn't likely to break, but there are times when something is hooked that's just too big to land on the gear I'm using.  Not having a problem with the knot isn't the same as being able to break the lure off so you don't get spooled.  Grabbing the spool will quite often break the lure at the knot or swivel, seldom losing main line.  Hooking an immovable object is one of the few times when a hook may bend or break, I try to break off the lure pretty much in the same way as I would with a fish on.  IMO sometimes it's best to have your knot break off, better to lose a lure than a couple of hundred yards of braid from a fish you aren't going to land any way.

Posted

This is line that is NOT for bass fishing! It is for saltwater fishing

That makes more sense

  • Super User
Posted

Watched Larry Dahlberg PR the line in a TW video yesterday. Does seem to have a saltwater bent to it, but as I thought about it -- not that I'd use it, mind you -- having 30" of zero-impact section of line to tie a leader should make that section last for a while.

 

But again, current Power Pro works perfectly fine for me in 10 and 20 lb test. I see no need for this line at this time. Will be interesting to read reviews from people who do use it.

 

Shimano must have done some research and discussion with fishermen before releasing this line.

Posted

The great debate... super lines verses mono and others.... I know the sayig is... the "leader" is good because it helps keep the line  invisible so to speak from the targeted fish... but... what gets me is your sacrificing the super line because your tying on a weaker leader. Yes it helps keep the line hidden but at what cost?  Ive tried the leader on my super line... (Nanofil) an it does make a difference... but I've also noticed that from time to time.. the leader will break , be it on a hook set, or while fighting a decent size fish, to me losing even one fish because of a leader breaking is not acceptable. So why not just use a higher strength mono or floro? Most of my gear has Berkley big game on it.. and I have about the same amount of breaks with that as I do the super line with a leader.. so why spend that extra $$ on something that is doing the same as the cheaper priced line???

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Coming to a clearance isle around summer 2014...

  • Like 2
Posted

The great debate... super lines verses mono and others.... I know the sayig is... the "leader" is good because it helps keep the line invisible so to speak from the targeted fish... but... what gets me is your sacrificing the super line because your tying on a weaker leader. Yes it helps keep the line hidden but at what cost? Ive tried the leader on my super line... (Nanofil) an it does make a difference... but I've also noticed that from time to time.. the leader will break , be it on a hook set, or while fighting a decent size fish, to me losing even one fish because of a leader breaking is not acceptable. So why not just use a higher strength mono or floro? Most of my gear has Berkley big game on it.. and I have about the same amount of breaks with that as I do the super line with a leader.. so why spend that extra $$ on something that is doing the same as the cheaper priced line???

The braided mainline lasts for years for a lot of us, that mitigates the cost. The smaller diameter gives a significant line capacity boost. Also the thinner braid is gonna cast better than a stronger/thicker mono. While using a leader certainly gives you some stretch, it's IMO better than using regular mono on a long cast-hook set.

Posted

The braided mainline lasts for years for a lot of us, that mitigates the cost. The smaller diameter gives a significant line capacity boost. Also the thinner braid is gonna cast better than a stronger/thicker mono. While using a leader certainly gives you some stretch, it's IMO better than using regular mono on a long cast-hook set.

 

 

Agreed that there is less stretch when using braid  with a leader on there, and of course the castability doubles in distance with braid, and for a person fishing super clear water, then the benifit of making those long casts comes into play. But if you fish no so clear to murkey water... the "long dishance casting isnt a must, rather a preference which nulls your point :)

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