How To Avoid "snaggage" In Deep Water Brush Piles?

[leadslinger]

Semi-newbie question....

 

The lake I fish has lots of downed trees in as deep as 30ft of water, of which I can see the first 5-8ft. I usually avoid throwing INTO the thick stuff for fear of snagging, or not being able to haul the fish out of what I can't see. I stay on the edges and hope they come out to play.

 

What are some of the keys for successfully fishing deeper into the cover? I suppose line/lure choice and attack angle are key.

 

I've seen videos of cranks (nose down) bumping off of wood, but I hate risking expensive lures. I usually usually throw t-rig's or weedless jig&trailer around the perimeter using braid w/ fc leader.

 

I know they're in there.

 

Any help appreciated!

Bill

 

 

 

 

 

  

[kylek]

get you a good lure retriever and get in there after them. 

[Mindhunter]

After you lose the fear of losing lures you'll catch a lot more fish. I used to stay on the edges to and I'll tell ya I lose a lot more lures than I used to but I also catch a lot more fish. As you stated when fishing heavy cover your angle to get the fish out is critical, if you cast to heavy cover and don't have a plan/angle to get em out you're asking for heartbreak. I've heard it said many times and I'm a believer, if you ain't getting hung you're fishing in the wrong spot

[aqualkinbush]

Can't be afraid to lose a lure. But to save yourself some cash I would go with kylek's advice and get a retrieval system.

[loudcherokee]

what exactly is a retrieval system? I'm imagining scuba gear and a pair of needle nose pliers, lol.

LC

[WRB]

You really have to work at snagging a Texas rigged soft plastic worm to point of breaking it off.

The biggest problem is usually not inserting the worm onto the hook properly of using too large of hook for the worm body diameter and using too heavy of bullet weight.

For example most 6"soft plastic straight tail worms work well with a 3/0 size premium worm hook, lots of choices. I prefer straight shanked Gamakatsu 464 for this presentation with a 3/16 brass painted bullet weight.

The eye of the hook should not be inserted more than 1/8" into the worm head, the hook point should be skin hooked to cover the point.

If you feel the weight stop keep slight pressure on it and wait a few moments to determine if the pressure is a bass or a limb, limbs don't move! If it's not alive, then drop a little slack into the line a jiggle it until the weight comes free.

Weedless Arkie style jig heads or brush style jig heads are both ideally suited to work through brush or trees. Agian heavy weight is doesn't work well, try to use 1/4 to 3/8 oz jigs, avoid using bulk type trailers with appendages, keep it streamlined to slide through the brush without grabbing stuff. A 4" soft plastic worm with the tail split about 2" makes a very good brush jig trailer.

Good luck.

Tom

PS; a lure retriever is a heavy weight with sash chain on a cord that slides down your line, snags the treble hook type lure and you pull it free with the cord. This doesn't work with single hook lures, those you donate.

[PoorBoyBassin]

Feeling your bait, what its always doing is key. You should always be able to feel when the baits about to come over somethin... in the way the  line moves , stops comming towards you an stays in one spot till the bait comes over the object. Ive found that at first impression most times when a bait feels stuck, I have to resist the temptation of yanking up on it . I can generaly let a bit of slack out an sorta yo yo it up an over the object to let it fall back down the other side, an thats where most of my strikes accure.. on the fall... after a bit of commotion I've cause by yoyoing over the cover... as several have said.. if your not fishing in the mix so to speak your missing out on some good fishing... and yes ofcourse.. get yourself a good retreaval system... they can be had for around 18.00 at BPS!

[MichBassMan]

WRB outlined a perfect Texas Rig for brush. The only thing I would add is "in brush" always peg your weight tight to your bait.

[Jack Fate]

WRB outlined a perfect Texas Rig for brush. The only thing I would add is "in brush" always peg your weight tight to your bait.

 

This! 

[PondBoss]

Definitely invest in a lure retrieve.  I got a cheap one at Academy for like $6, paid for it's self the first outing.  Also if there is anyway you know which way the lay down is laying that will help a lot with snags.  If you can crank up the tree (stump to top) this will help tons because that is the natural flow of the limbs.  You'll also catch more fish because odds are those fish don't see too many cranks down in the bushes.

[Bankbeater]

Having good electronics, or just being able to see the snags help a lot.  If you see that the bait is going into a snag, stop reeling for a sec and let the bait float up about a foot.  You'll miss that snag and maybe trigger a bite.

[Sam]

Bill, may I add trying a "weedless" hook?

 

Do what Tom and MichBassMan suggest along with using a weedless hook.

 

You may want to try the JIKA rig with the understanding that the weight can get hung up.

 

You may want to try a weightless Texas rigged Senko or YUM Dinger.

 

You will get hung up in the brush no matter what you do.

 

You can use a small tungsten weight, throw a Texas rigged finesse or stick bait worm with a weedless hook and you will still get hung in the brush.

 

Just remind yourself that the bass love the brush and trees and they will swim around the structure and then get in the structure. This is where they live. So as Woo Daves says, you fish each room of their house to try to get them to bite.

 

Sometimes you win and sometimes the brush and trees win.

 

You will lose baits and tackle but that is part of fishing.

[Topwaterspook]

Get a quality lure retriever. Fasten it onto a quality retractable dog leash. The one I have is 27 ft. long and is cord not the ribbon type. I usually end up with more lures at the end of the season than I started with. If you're afraid of losing a lure you might as well not own it.

[hookset on 3]

Bill, you should have some less expensive but good brands of cranks ( i.e. Norman, Bomber, Strike King ). If your throwing Lucky Craft or Megabass to deep brush piles I'm not so sure the bass can really see the nice detail on the finish of those baits.

[leadslinger]

Bill, you should have some less expensive but good brands of cranks ( i.e. Norman, Bomber, Strike King ). If your throwing Lucky Craft or Megabass to deep brush piles I'm not so sure the bass can really see the nice detail on the finish of those baits.

Yep, I'm using Norman's, Rapala's and a couple LiveTarget.

thx.

[leadslinger]

Thanks to all for the feedback. Lot's of good ideas I'll be trying.

Bill

[rangerboy]

all great advise, if its heavy I like to try a full size senko or lizard with a weighted ewg gamagatsu hook. 12-15lb fluro you can feel the branches and pop the bait over them,