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Posted

Who uses them? I thought they took away from the action, but I have heard some talk that they make it better. Opinions??? It sure would be a heck of a lot faster and easier to change colors and styles.

  • Super User
Posted

I'm confident you've misunderstood something here; most folks use plain snaps on their cranks, or tie direct. I'd be very surprised to hear that anyone uses a snap-swivel combination. That's a tad too much hardware and will probably have a negative effect on the action of your crankbaits. Just use a plain (no swivel) "Duo-Lock" or "Cross Lock" snap and you'll do just fine.

  • Super User
Posted
I'm confident you've misunderstood something here; most folks use plain snaps on their cranks, or tie direct. I'd be very surprised to hear that anyone uses a snap-swivel combination. That's a tad too much hardware and will probably have a negative effect on the action of your crankbaits. Just use a plain (no swivel) "Duo-Lock" or "Cross Lock" snap and you'll do just fine.

x2

  • Super User
Posted

I know a couple of 70+ old geezers who use snap swivels.  They ain't going to change and  I've found it's a waste of breath to tell them.   They grew up learning how to fish that way.

Me, I think  snap swivels are bad.  The vast majority of the lures I buy either have a split ring or a snap attached to the lure and I tie direct to that.

Posted
Who uses them? I thought they took away from the action, but I have heard some talk that they make it better. Opinions??? It sure would be a heck of a lot faster and easier to change colors and styles.[/quo

Use a Berkley Cross Lock..not a "SnapSwivel".

Posted

so if you use a crosslock snap on a bait that has a split ring do you need to remove the split ring? if you didn't i think the angle would be off. baits like the wiggle wart come with a snap, others come with a split ring. i would think that to use a snap on a bait that came with a split ring you would want to remove the split ring first...True or not true?

  • Super User
Posted

I never remove the split rings unless I need it for something else.  Lures works just fine with or without them, I do both tie as well as use duolock, see no difference in amount of fish caught.

  • Super User
Posted

NEVER REMOVE THE SPLIT RING.

It is placed there to make the lure act as engineered.

Use a snap or a crossover - never a swivel.  :)

Posted

If you use a snap then remove the split ring or tie directly to the split ring.   I prefer snaps because I like to change baits often.

  • Super User
Posted
I'm confident you've misunderstood something here; most folks use plain snaps on their cranks, or tie direct. I'd be very surprised to hear that anyone uses a snap-swivel combination. That's a tad too much hardware and will probably have a negative effect on the action of your crankbaits. Just use a plain (no swivel) "Duo-Lock" or "Cross Lock" snap and you'll do just fine.

x2

X3.

Posted

Ok thanks guys. I think I did hear that wrong about the "snap-swivel".

Posted

Argh. I have been using a snap/swivel instead of just a regular snap/clasp.

I am not so used to one way or the other to not be able to change, I just thought

snap = for ease of changing lures

swivel = to help free up the motion of the lure

This is not right? They tend to be running alright, as far as I can tell, but what do I know  :-[

I do have some regular ol' snaps (w/o swivels) I can try. I do not care which one I use, I am just glad to not have to tie direct each time :-/

  • Super User
Posted

There 's only one lure I fish with a snap-swivel combination and that is an in-line spinner, I haven 't found yet an in-line spinner that doesn 't twist the line no matter what the manufacturer claims, they all rotate when the blade rotates, the snap-swivel avoids the line from twisting.

Posted
I know a couple of 70+ old geezers who use snap swivels. They ain't going to change and I've found it's a waste of breath to tell them. They grew up learning how to fish that way.

Me, I think snap swivels are bad. The vast majority of the lures I buy either have a split ring or a snap attached to the lure and I tie direct to that.

x2

Posted

What about flutter spoons? I do have one on those.

Posted
There 's only one lure I fish with a snap-swivel combination and that is an in-line spinner, I haven 't found yet an in-line spinner that doesn 't twist the line no matter what the manufacturer claims, they all rotate when the blade rotates, the snap-swivel avoids the line from twisting.

x2... AND for most spoon-type lures too, i.e. Johnson Silver Minnows, etc.

I use a Palomar knot most of the time, and HATE trying to get that 'loop' around all those treble hooks on crankbaits.  I also have a phobia that my line will cut/snag on that little split area of the split-ring, so I use a snap (only) for that reason and for quicker lure changes.   I snap to the split-ring if there is one...

I direct-tie all my single-hook applications - i.e. plastics, worms, tubes, etc.

Hope that helps!  :)

Posted

I used snaps for a long time, but just recently quit using them because I heard it's better to tie straight on... I saved a lot of line using a snap :) I guess it's better to tie directly on too because then it forces you to check your line and retie!

  • Super User
Posted
I used snaps for a long time, but just recently quit using them because I heard it's better to tie straight on... I saved a lot of line using a snap :) I guess it's better to tie directly on too because then it forces you to check your line and retie!

The deal is: the snap is not ever going to eliminate the need to check/cut and retie oftlenly, that 's something you have to do with the snap or without it, if you don 't do it don 't be surprised you loose lures and fish out of pure laziness, nobody or nothing forces you to do it, checking/cutting and retying is a matter of procedure.

Posted
I used snaps for a long time, but just recently quit using them because I heard it's better to tie straight on... I saved a lot of line using a snap ;) I guess it's better to tie directly on too because then it forces you to check your line and retie!

The deal is: the snap is not ever going to eliminate the need to check/cut and retie oftlenly, that 's something you have to do with the snap or without it, if you don 't do it don 't be surprised you loose lures and fish out of pure laziness, nobody or nothing forces you to do it, checking/cutting and retying is a matter of procedure.

Your right, but if you're tying directly on, and you forget stuff all the time like I do, you at least have to retie when you change lures. You may not understand because I forget things in a snap :) Maybe your memory is better than mine  :)

Posted
NEVER REMOVE THE SPLIT RING.

It is placed there to make the lure act as engineered.

Use a snap or a crossover - never a swivel. :)

your statement does not pan out scientifically. if the weight and radius of the bend of the snap is even close to the same as the split ring there would be no difference from an engineering stand point. in fact there would be one if you didn't.

Posted

Me personally, I use snaps but remove the split rings but I just re-checked KVD's book Secrets of a Champion and it reads:

"I prefer to use snaps on jerkbaits and crankbaits to increase lure action. I've found that line cinched to the split ring can inhibit the action on most hard baits."

"On jerkbaits, the snap provides a loose connection and gives the bait a more erratic action and gets me more bites."

"On crankbaits, especially the big baits in the summer time, I like to reel them down into the cover so they ricochet and suspend momentarily. The loose connection with the snap-just as it does with a jerkbait-gives it a little more action."

He writes he uses a Berkley Cross-Lock snap in #3 size. It's a 75# snap.

As far as removing the split ring, he writes:

"Don't remove the split ring; hook the snap to the split ring or you won't achieve the same action."

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