How Long Should Trailer Tires Last?

[Bluebasser86]

I'm not sure if it's because I'm buying cheap tires or if my trailer axle isn't mounted properly but my boat trailer seems to eat tires. The ones on it now are getting very low and I just replaced them last year. Granted, I drive a ton because there is very little good fishing close by (my average fishing trip is over 100 miles round trip at least once a week). So they are getting lots of miles put on them but it seems like they lasted longer before I had to replace my trailer axle when I spun a bearing and the hub welded to the axle. Should I be looking at a better tire or do I need to get my trailer looked at to get the axle aligned properly? It's only a 16' aluminum boat with a good sized 5 lug wheel and tire so it isn't like it's rolling on donuts. 

[Cinder]

I just bought new tires from Discount Tires, and I asked the guy how long trailer tires should last. He stated it depends on how far you travel, how long the trailer sits  (for winter storage) on dirt, concrete etc. also to place plywood under tires when stored or not used for any length of time. 

[M-D]

From what you have posted it sounds like you have a problem with the new axle.

Can you describe the wear? Is it on both tires?

[Fishing Rhino]

At 100 miles per week, you average about 5000 miles per year.  I haven't experienced that kind of wear in the two rigs I've owned.  In two years I put over ten thousand miles on the trailer with my Nitro Z-7 (single axle), and the tires had very little wear.  I've got over a year on my current tandem axle trailer and about 7000 miles on it, and the tires still look good.

 

A lot of those miles were at high speed on the interstate.  A trip to Alabama, Tennessee and one trip to Georgia from Mass, plus the miles I put on it around here, and no signs of abnormal wear.  I'm towing a Nitro Z-8 which is much heavier than your 16 foot aluminum boat.

 

Since the wear problem began when you replaced the axle, that's where I'd look for the problem.  Any misalignment will cause the tires to scrub on the pavement, and cause excessive wear. 

 

If they wear evenly across the surface, chances are the wheels of the trailer are toed in or out.  If they wear unevenly on one edge or the other it's most likely a camber problem, with the wheels tilted in or out at the top. 

 

Have it checked at a reputable shop for alignment problems. 

[jhoffman]

I agree with rhino although it could be the tire also. My buddy mike took out a set in one year on his tracker before he sold it. It all depends on the rating.

 

When I had my rocket, I was putting new tires on it every year, sometimes twice a year but I was riding it like I stole it.

[ww2farmer]

 Just to give you an example..............I have had my boat for 6 full years, going on the 7th now. I bought it new. I have used that boat AT LEAST 120 times per season (between April-November) every year. Most of the trips are 5 miles to the ramp, and five miles back, with a few trips a year to other lakes between 25-50 miles away. So I average just a little less than 1500 miles a year on it. My best guess is they would have had around 10,000 miles on them. I just put new tires on it for this season. The original ones probably would have made it another year, but I would rather be safe than sorry, I had the money, and who knows what I will have to fix next winter after another season of abuse LOL, at least it won't (I hope) be tires. I didn't have any odd tread wear, they were just getting down there. Specific of my trailer are 13" tires (smaller tires wear faster), and no brakes (IDK if this matters). I am not too worried about it. They are $80 each, mounted at my local shop, I got $160 worth of use out of the original tires in the past six years IMHO.

[james 14]

What tire are you running? Sidewall thickness can make or break a trailer tire.

[slonezp]

Got 6 years before replacing on the last boat. Mileage was (1) 1000-1500mi round trip road trips every year, (2) 500mi round trips every year and maybe 40 regular trips to the ramp around 60mi round trip per year. So roughly 25-30k. I have heard treating the tires with tire dressing and keeping them covered while stored will extend the life.

[Way2slow]

Trailer tire life is no different from vehicle tire life, it greatly depends on axle alignment.  Other than a few of the top of the line companies, very few trailer manufactors align their axles. 

 

The problem you are faced with now it the computer generation, 95% of the so called alignment shops today depend on what's programed into their computer alignment system for how to set your alignment, and I haven't seen one yet that had "Boat Trailer" in them, and it's highly unlikely you're gonna find some kid using one that knows how to mannually bend and axle, even if the had the equipment to do it.

 

If you can find one of the "old timers" that has an alignment system to do your old straight axles in old pickup's etc. he can probably do your boat trailer. 

 

Get it aligned and if they can balance the tires, tire wear will be greatly reduced.  It should eleminate all that cupping you are probably seeing around them. 

[Fishing Rhino]

You can easily check the alignment for toe in, or toe out.  You'll need two people to help you.

 

Have the trailer on a flat surface, and hooked up to the tow vehicle.  It doesn't have to be perfectly level, but it should be close.

 

You'll need a couple of eight foot straightedges.  Aluminum angle "irons" should work.  Make sure whatever you use is straight, and not easily distorted.  Have two hold the straightedge horizontally against the outside sidewalls on each side.  The center of the straightedge should be in line with the axle.   The third person will measure the gaps at the front and rear ends of the straightedges.  The gaps, front and rear should measure the same. 

 

You can use a carpenter's level to check the wheels for camber. 

 

If you have a straight box beam axle, place the level on the axle, and shim the wheel on the low side until the axle is level. 

 

Simply place the level vertically against the sidewalls of the tire.  The level should be centered on the wheel.  The bubble in the indicator should be in the center of the tube.  Do both sides. 

 

One thing to keep in mind.  If a wheel is bent, you will not get an accurate reading.  Jack up one side at a time, and spin the wheel.  There should be no wobble.

 

This will not be precise, but it will show you if the wheels are out of alignment, be it toe, or camber.

[Long Mike]

Pay close attention to Rhino's advice.  He's old enough to have performed wheel alignments on Roman chariots. 

[slonezp]

Pay close attention to Rhino's advice.  He's old enough to have performed wheel alignments on Roman chariots. 

What are you talking about? He invented the wheel. 

[Ratherbfishing]

It's possible they sold you an axle too light for your boat and trailer.  My friend had that happen.  After he'd replaced his axle his tires were wearing out prematurely.  Granted, his boat is rather heavy for a single axle trailer (probably too heavy, really) but when he brought up the issue to the folks who he'd gone through, they said "Who ever did this, recommended too light of an axle."  My friend replied/retorted:  "YOU sold me this axle (you jerks)!!!!

[Traveler2586]

There is also a quick string test for axle alignment that I saw in a magazine.  Get a string that has very little stretch to it (I'm thinking some braid will do).  Attach one end to the trailer tong near the coupler so it's in the center of the beam.  With the trailer on jack stands and the wheels off, pull the string snug to a point on the outside of the right hub (like where the cap meets the hub), mark the string at this point, move the string to the left side and measure to the same point on the left hub.  It should be the same.  This is a crude but quick way to check an axle alignment.  Depending on the axle mounting configuration, sometimes hitting a pothole or curb can knock one side back.  I had this happen to me on my Jon boat trailer where the axle was mounted to the lief-springs by two "U" clamps.  In this case the trailer didn't track directly behind the tow vehicle.

 

Something else to think about is tire air pressure.  If your tire wears in the center it indicates over-inflation, if the tire wears on the outsides that indicates under-inflation. Tire pressure should be checked before leaving the driveway for each trip.  Under inflation is a major problem for trailers tires due to the heat generated within the tire walls; it's causes blowouts on the road.  If you have a hard time maintaining tire pressure check your valve stems with some soapy water and a brush; gently move the stem up, down, left, right while dabbing on the soapy water and look for bubbles, if you find any have the wheel inspected for a bad valve seat on the rim or a poor fitting valve, but correct the problem whatever it is.

[Fishing Rhino]

There is also a quick string test for axle alignment that I saw in a magazine.  Get a string that has very little stretch to it (I'm thinking some braid will do).  Attach one end to the trailer tong near the coupler so it's in the center of the beam.  With the trailer on jack stands and the wheels off, pull the string snug to a point on the outside of the right hub (like where the cap meets the hub), mark the string at this point, move the string to the left side and measure to the same point on the left hub.  It should be the same.  This is a crude but quick way to check an axle alignment.  Depending on the axle mounting configuration, sometimes hitting a pothole or curb can knock one side back.  I had this happen to me on my Jon boat trailer where the axle was mounted to the lief-springs by two "U" clamps.  In this case the trailer didn't track directly behind the tow vehicle.

 

Something else to think about is tire air pressure.  If your tire wears in the center it indicates over-inflation, if the tire wears on the outsides that indicates under-inflation. Tire pressure should be checked before leaving the driveway for each trip.  Under inflation is a major problem for trailers tires due to the heat generated within the tire walls; it's causes blowouts on the road.  If you have a hard time maintaining tire pressure check your valve stems with some soapy water and a brush; gently move the stem up, down, left, right while dabbing on the soapy water and look for bubbles, if you find any have the wheel inspected for a bad valve seat on the rim or a poor fitting valve, but correct the problem whatever it is.

 

That will tell you if the axle is square to the centerline of the trailer.  If the axle is not square, the trailer will "crab" along, somewhat sideways.  I'm pretty sure we've all been behind cars whose rear wheels do not follow the same track as the front wheels when travelling in a straight line.

[Fishing Rhino]

Long Mike, and Mr. Bundy, you have hurt my feelings.

[Bluebasser86]

There is also a quick string test for axle alignment that I saw in a magazine.  Get a string that has very little stretch to it (I'm thinking some braid will do).  Attach one end to the trailer tong near the coupler so it's in the center of the beam.  With the trailer on jack stands and the wheels off, pull the string snug to a point on the outside of the right hub (like where the cap meets the hub), mark the string at this point, move the string to the left side and measure to the same point on the left hub.  It should be the same.  This is a crude but quick way to check an axle alignment.  Depending on the axle mounting configuration, sometimes hitting a pothole or curb can knock one side back.  I had this happen to me on my Jon boat trailer where the axle was mounted to the lief-springs by two "U" clamps.  In this case the trailer didn't track directly behind the tow vehicle.

 

Something else to think about is tire air pressure.  If your tire wears in the center it indicates over-inflation, if the tire wears on the outsides that indicates under-inflation. Tire pressure should be checked before leaving the driveway for each trip.  Under inflation is a major problem for trailers tires due to the heat generated within the tire walls; it's causes blowouts on the road.  If you have a hard time maintaining tire pressure check your valve stems with some soapy water and a brush; gently move the stem up, down, left, right while dabbing on the soapy water and look for bubbles, if you find any have the wheel inspected for a bad valve seat on the rim or a poor fitting valve, but correct the problem whatever it is.

I'll have to do that and string trick and see if maybe that is the problem. This is just an aluminum semi V, a fancy john boat basically. My axle is mounted with U bolts and I fish a lot of lakes down dirt roads with some bad pot holes so maybe I just knocked it out of whack. Taking it to the shop in the morning to have new tires put on and balanced so hopefully they can do something to make the tires last longer. 

It's possible they sold you an axle too light for your boat and trailer.  My friend had that happen.  After he'd replaced his axle his tires were wearing out prematurely.  Granted, his boat is rather heavy for a single axle trailer (probably too heavy, really) but when he brought up the issue to the folks who he'd gone through, they said "Who ever did this, recommended too light of an axle."  My friend replied/retorted:  "YOU sold me this axle (you jerks)!!!!

My boat is a plain aluminum, the hull only weighs 435 pounds and my father in law got me the axle for free (owns a trailer sales and parts store). So I doubt it's axle being too light. 

[00 mod]

Blue, I have basically your same set-up.  Fancy john boat.  I got my boat 2.5 yrs ago and same tires.  My closest ramp is 45 mins away.  Something has to be up with your axle!

 

Jeff

[Traveler2586]

I'll have to do that and string trick and see if maybe that is the problem. This is just an aluminum semi V, a fancy john boat basically. My axle is mounted with U bolts and I fish a lot of lakes down dirt roads with some bad pot holes so maybe I just knocked it out of whack. Taking it to the shop in the morning to have new tires put on and balanced so hopefully they can do something to make the tires last longer. 

My boat is a plain aluminum, the hull only weighs 435 pounds and my father in law got me the axle for free (owns a trailer sales and parts store). So I doubt it's axle being too light. 

 

I bet they could do the string test, or some other type of alignment test, while they have the tires off. 

 

BTW, you need to take it very easy and slow on those old pothole ridden dirt roads.  The springs on you trailer are too stiff on your type of rig, so all the shock it transfered throughout the trailer, into the boat and everything inside.  I actually believed the springs were just for slow and the axle was hard connected to the trailer frame.