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Posted

I am going on an extended fishing trip shortly to upstate New York, and am running into an issue I thankfully do not have to deal with here in North East Ohio. The issue is Pike. While I will be pursuing Bass, pike are predators as well, and I anticipate hooking with a few hammer handles. While I don't necessarily resent this, I despise the idea of seeing a pike swimming off with a Sammy or Pointer. At the same time, however, I don not want to use a wire leader, due the the adverse affect it can have on action, suspending profiles, and visibility. My thought is to use straight braided line as my main line on a couple rods and use those primarily for my hard baits. I know braid will hold up to teeth, I personally have caught a 38 1/4 Muskie on 30lb braid with no issue, and had a fishing partner land a 36" Pike on the same line. My questions are as follows:

1. What braid would you recommend? I have used both Power Pro and Spider Wire stealth, and never really had a reason to change. However, with the advent of some of the newer lines, such as PP SS8, Sufix 832, Kanzen, and Sunline FX2, I am open to trying the "latest and greatest"

2. What pound test would you recommend? I will primarily be throwing a 2nd Generation Revo Premier and a Daiwa Fuego, but would like to keep the diameter down for casting sake and visibility issues. I'm thinking either 20 or 30lb. but am open to suggestions.

3. What color would you recommend? The waters I'm fishing are somewhat Tannin stained, and somewhat resemble a weak Tea. I'm thinking Moss Green or the like, simply because it blends into a quite a variety of structure, and is an unobtrusive color.

Thanks and Happy Memorial Day - Bass Junkie

  • Super User
Posted

never throw less than 50lb braid on a baitcaster.this will prevent digging in of the line.sufix 832 and powerpro super slick are the best braids made imho.i would give the edge to 832 because it sinks and i think it's actually more sensitive.

Posted

I understand the concerns with the braid digging into the spool, by as long as its wound under tension I have not experienced issues going as low as 30 here and there. I'm really wanting to keep the line profile as low as possible to help reduce visibility. I plan on throwing some suspending jerkbaits and other slower presentations, and want to avoid sacrificing any more bites than I have to. What is the ROF on the 832? I'm not entirely sure I want a sinking braid for top waters or suspending lures. Thanks for the input!

Posted

I use 55lb in green. If visibility is a concern I use a 12lb leader.

Brand that I use is Daiwa Samurai and Daiwa Steez Fluorocarbon both in green....

Posted

I use 55lb in green. If visibility is a concern I use a 12lb leader.

Brand that I use is Daiwa Samurai and Daiwa Steez Fluorocarbon both in green....

My main purpose in using braid is to eliminate the need for a leader of any nature, and reduce or eliminate bite-offs. I have heard good things about Samurai, along with a few mixed reviews of the line having a low shock strength. I have heard similar about Kanzen as well, but have no personal experience with either. Thanks for the recommendation!
  • Super User
Posted

I tried 15# Kanzen and found it to be weak would break at 8-9# and this after just a couple weeks use..

The teeth issue well Ive caught a few pike and lost a few with braid so cant say for certain braid holds-up well to those fish. The only thing in my case was the thinner braid I use, 15# on bc reels. PPS8S is what I like used it all last year and so far this year highly used line 15# is breaking a little over 20# so its maintaining its strength.

Posted

My main purpose in using braid is to eliminate the need for a leader of any nature, and reduce or eliminate bite-offs.

 

Braid is horrible when it comes to bite-offs, and it doesn't matter if it is 20 pound braid or 65 pound braid.    Heavy flouro is what many use to help against the toothies, whether it be straight flouro or a leader.

  • Super User
Posted

I use 55lb Diawa Samurai and run into pike and musky and never have problems with the line. They have a tendency to destroy bass lures. 

  • Super User
Posted

I use 20 pound braid on my baitcasters and have never had any digging in issues. When I'm in pike water and want to use Pointers, I use steel leaders made from 20 pound test tie-able wire. I tie a small loop in one end and tie a small oval split ring on the other. These are the lightest leaders I can find. I fish my jerkbaits on a spinning reel with 8 pound fireline for smallies. It does cause my jerkbaits to sink, slowly, but it'a a trade off I'm willing to make. I won't use 50 pound flouro leaders or 50 pound braid to fish jerkbaits, it just does not cast as far as light line does with those baits.

Posted

So you don't think say 30lb. braid will withstand the inscidental pike?

 

It doesn't here.   Their teeth are shaped much like the shears I cut the line with.   All depends where they are hooked though.   I've landed a couple big pike on 2 pound test while ice fishing, but the line was no where near the teeth.   If the line is going through the teeth, you're done.

Posted

So you don't think say 30lb. braid will withstand the inscidental pike?

As long as there teeth don't touch it, you'll be fine! :)

Posted

I would take wnybassmans advice. I've seen pike shear right through braid as well. When I fish waters with pike I use a leader of 12lb yo zuri and have not had a break off yet and this is with tx-rigged plastics where the hook and line is right at their mouth. Just some food for thought.

  • Super User
Posted

No problems with the shock strength of Samurai. I use 30 lb on spinning and 55# and 80# on casting. Of course, I haven't managed to backlash the spinning setup yet; but haven't casted off a bait backalshing the 55 or the 80 yet; or broken off on a hookset on any of the three lb tests I use.

  • Super User
Posted

Getting cut off by a toothy critter is a fact of life, it's going to happen regardless of the type and size line being used if you get enough strikes.  Being a spinning only user I don't use anything heavier than 20# braided line and always a leader.  Whether it's steel leader, mono or FC, swivel or tie line to leader connection will vary based on my target species, not the size of the fish.  In the event live or cut bait is used I would stay away form circle hooks and use a longer shanked j-hook.

  • Super User
Posted

Get some tie-able wire and use it to connect your lure to your main line. No more visible that the braid you are using. Personally, I would not use braid as insurance against bite offs. Braid is much less abrasion resistant than normal fluorocarbon leader material. Which is why most braid fishermen use fluorocarbon leaders. However, even fluoro won't guard against pike bite offs, unless you start getting into the really heavy stuff, such as 50 - 75 pound tests. Only steel works. The tie-able wire is not bad to work with and does cure that problem.

Posted

Get some tie-able wire and use it to connect your lure to your main line. No more visible that the braid you are using. Personally, I would not use braid as insurance against bite offs. Braid is much less abrasion resistant than normal fluorocarbon leader material. Which is why most braid fishermen use fluorocarbon leaders. However, even fluoro won't guard against pike bite offs, unless you start getting into the really heavy stuff, such as 50 - 75 pound tests. Only steel works. The tie-able wire is not bad to work with and does cure that problem.

I've searched for it locally, but can't find any. What brand would you recommend?

  • Super User
Posted

Cabelas and BPS carry it. Google it on their site for the brand each carries. Sometimes you can get it in the salt water bait section of Dicks too. It was awhile ago that I bought some, so I don't remember the particular brand, but as long as it's "tie-able" wire, you should be set.

Posted

Alright, thank you very much. I just picked up a spool of 30lb Sufix 832, and will certainly look into the tiable wire!

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