Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I switched to 8# Seaguar Senshi last night on my spinning rod because the 6# Sufix Elite I had on was obnoxiously stretchy (lost a couple fish this week due to it). Well, I went out today and 3 times my line got twisted up REALLY bad. I had to cut off maybe 30 yards each time. I put KVD L&L on last night when I was spooling it up, as well as before going out this morning. I never had trouble with the Elite, but I don't know if it was because I worked the fluke faster today, with the Senshi, than I did before with the Elite. I can't exactly afford to keep wasting line. I liked the Elite well enough but it was way too stretchy for the spot I usually fish. I was not using a swivel. Mind you, I did not fish today for very long at all (an hour total, tops), so it wasn't line twist that built up from fishing a fluke for 8 hours straight.

 

tl;dr: is it the line or the fluke causing terrible line twist? I know baits like flukes are known to cause line twist, but this seems excessive.

Posted

I've gone to throwing them on a casting rod but with a spinning rod I used to put a swivel a foot or 18 inches from the fluke . That will really help with the twist.

Posted

I've gone to throwing them on a casting rod but with a spinning rod I used to put a swivel a foot or 18 inches from the fluke . That will really help with the twist.

 

The only problem with that is the place I fish has A LOT of grass and moss. I don't yet have a BC that will throw something as light as a fluke.

  • Super User
Posted

Line does not twist on it's own. Unless the bait is spinning, it's probably not the bait. You may have put some twist in the line while spooling it. Assuming you are fishing from a boat, let a full cast or more out behind the boat with no lure while slowing trollling along. Hold the line between two fingers while reeling it back in. The line twist will be gone. Spinning reels just twist line, mono and fluoro don't like being twisted and give you problems.

Posted

I cast a Caffeine Shad today on a spinning reel.  But I found that the combination of Suniine SX-1 Twelve pound braid, fluoro leader and a tiny Danielson swivel about 8 inches about the fluke was a great set up.....NO twist at all. 

 

     I think with a spinning reel, a  quality swivel will be a good idea, whatever line you decide to use, if you are casting a fluke.

 

I also cast a fluke with a Steez 103, but the wind was blowing 20mph today and the spinner saved the day!!  Casting into the wind with a Steez and 7# Fluoro is NOT a good idea!

  • Super User
Posted

I have thrown caffene shads and zoom fluke jrs weightless on a M/F casting rod with no problems.

 

You almost have to use a swivel with flukes. No matter how good they are rigged, they will spin and cause line twist to some point. I don't have the time or the knowledge to know how to pull out the line twist so I use a swivel. Solved all my twist problems when I did. They are cheap and stronger than my main line.

 

Just give yourself a 2-3 foot leader on the swivel and you should be good.

 

For whats its worth, on my spinning rig, I started noticing twist in 6 pound fluoro after 8-9 casts

  • Super User
Posted

Any line is going to twist on a spinning reel, even braid to a lesser degree, swivels help somewhat but will not eliminate it.  The type of bait being used and how it's rigged and retrieved also help in keeping the twist to a minimum. IMO you need to start with the basics and that's spooling the line on right. I first condition my mono or coploy by putting the spool in warm water for about 10 minutes, then spool up but not over fill, before fishing troll your line out.  As I use lures that rotate 360 degrees constantly the line twist gets bad, no compromise on this issue, the line gets trolled out at the end of my outing each time I fish.

Posted

Thanks for the tips guys. A few of you mentioned trolling the line out: I cannot do that since I don't have a boat. Instead, I switched out the Senshi for some Power Pro. I took it out last night for maybe 30 minutes in the cold and rain and got zero line twist (at least not the sort that makes a huge clump just off the reel like with the Senshi).

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Thanks for the tips guys. A few of you mentioned trolling the line out: I cannot do that since I don't have a boat. Instead, I switched out the Senshi for some Power Pro. I took it out last night for maybe 30 minutes in the cold and rain and got zero line twist (at least not the sort that makes a huge clump just off the reel like with the Senshi).

Atttttta boy.....use that braid. I think you'll find yourself catching more fish, especially in the weedy Wisconsin lakes.  So much easier to manage as well.  Just remember, a little bit more loose of a drag now that braid is on.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Learn to add a FC leader in clearer water and you are all set!  Good luck!

Posted

I recall there was a similar thread about line twist on a spinning reel few weeks ago. The conclusion was that the person spooled TOO MUCH LINE on the spool. I've fished flukes a lot on spinning and casting reels alike, and the lure does not spin along line's axis, so....

Posted

Take great care when putting the hook into the fluke.  Send the hook point through the VERY middle of the nose on the initial stick.  Give it a test drive at the boat side before you start casting.  If it spins, pull the hook out and try again.  The fluke won't have great action if it is on the hook wrong anyway.  If the problem persists, let the fluke spin after every third or fourth cast.  I've never had to mess with a swivle on a fluke.  Great way to catch schooling fish, by the way.

 

Edit:  I almost forgot.  I always use offset shank hooks.

Posted

I recall there was a similar thread about line twist on a spinning reel few weeks ago. The conclusion was that the person spooled TOO MUCH LINE on the spool. I've fished flukes a lot on spinning and casting reels alike, and the lure does not spin along line's axis, so....

 

I hadn't thought of that and it is a good possibility. Oh well, too late now. I prefer having braid as a mainline. Much easier to manage.

Posted

I had to go to a swivel because I got really bad line twist today even though I had braid (with a fluoro leader). As soon as I tied on the swivel, I had no more line twist. 

 

And for the guy(s) that said "if you get line twist, you're working it too fast": that's how they have wanted it. I tried everything today and they wanted "pop-pop-reel, pop-pop-reel" quickly. I tried a bunch of retrieves, but that's what worked. It twisted up my line, but it worked.

  • Super User
Posted
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

This has been a test of my patience (using flukes on spinning gear, that is). Like I said, I switched over to Power Pro (all I had was 30# and I took it off a BC reel. I can't afford to buy new spools of line when I feel like it) and I used a swivel with a FC leader. I had to continually chop off line in huge swaths due to it getting all kinds of twisted, resulting yesterday in me getting to the end of my braid (a decent cast would go past my knot and onto the backing).

 

What have I learned? 

 

  1. Don't re-use line off old reels. I'd love to say this was the only culprit, but I had this problem with the Senshi I tried as well. Granted, that is FAR from a sufficient number of controls for this "test", but all the lines were doused heavily in KVD.
  2. Stop using junky cheap reels (my spinning rig is a $20 Pinnacle combo from Wally World). I have a kidney I am willing to trade a Pflueger President for.

 

I have wasted more line trying to sort this mess out than I ever have even learning how to use a baitcaster. I went back to the 6# Sufix Elite because it is oh so supple, but oh so stretchy. I'll chalk this one up to operator error. Hopefully, though, I can get it right. For now I will throw them on my BC rigs but that limits their usage to non-windy days.

  • Super User
Posted

One thing that hasn't been mentioned,

Closing the bail.

Close the bail manually, never by turning the reel handle.

Nuff said

 

I keep hearing this but have never heard an explanation how moving the bail by hand has any effect on line twist. As far as I can tell it doesn't. If you close the bail by hand and make sure there are no loose loops of line in front of the spool, you can prevent wind knots.  If you have an explanation how closing the bail by hand gets rid of line twist, PLEASE post it here.

  • Super User
Posted

Just a little more practice. You'll figure it out. I throw flukes on bc and spinning but I prefer them on a baitcaster because I can control the action better when fishing it more erratic. I like it on a spinning rod if I'm deadsticking. Both have their time and place and can be achieved using a single setup.

I don't have the same line twist you describe on braid or mono. I might suggest tryin SK caffeine shad. They're heavier than flukes and have a great slow fall as well as great side to side action. I'm really loving these the more I throw them. Colors are lacking compared to zoom but they have the basics.

  • Super User
Posted

I keep hearing this but have never heard an explanation how moving the bail by hand has any effect on line twist. As far as I can tell it doesn't. If you close the bail by hand and make sure there are no loose loops of line in front of the spool, you can prevent wind knots. If you have an explanation how closing the bail by hand gets rid of line twist, PLEASE post it here.

Doesn't get rid of line twists. It helps prevent them from the bail arm dragging loose line initially vs a closed bail turning a taught line instantly.
Posted

Just a little more practice. You'll figure it out. I throw flukes on bc and spinning but I prefer them on a baitcaster because I can control the action better when fishing it more erratic. I like it on a spinning rod if I'm deadsticking. Both have their time and place and can be achieved using a single setup.

I don't have the same line twist you describe on braid or mono. I might suggest tryin SK caffeine shad. They're heavier than flukes and have a great slow fall as well as great side to side action. I'm really loving these the more I throw them. Colors are lacking compared to zoom but they have the basics.

 

I started throwing the super flukes on my baitcast gear this weekend and like it better, but that's because I like my baitcast gear better lol. It's just near impossible if there is any wind. I'll see if anywhere near me has the caffeine shads and give them a whirl. Thanks.

  • Super User
Posted

I keep hearing this but have never heard an explanation how moving the bail by hand has any effect on line twist. As far as I can tell it doesn't. If you close the bail by hand and make sure there are no loose loops of line in front of the spool, you can prevent wind knots.  If you have an explanation how closing the bail by hand gets rid of line twist, PLEASE post it here.

Just another old wive's tale.  The main reason spinning reels get line twist is a fixed spool that runs parallel to the rod, as the the handle is turned the line wraps around that fixed spool.  Secondly some types of lures that may turn over like a fluke or certain types of spoons (a drone spoon comes to mind), cut or live bait while drifting will cause the twist as well even with a baitcaster.  The twist can be reduced but not eliminated by centering the hook on the fluke and using a BB or ball chain swivel.  I close the bail by hand about 90% only because it's just a smoother more efficient method for me, not a twist issue.  I have yet to use a reel that has lived up to any claim of having an anti twist bail.

Posted

Mess with your spool tension on your casting reel.  Any reel can be adjusted to cast a weightless fluke.  What type of hook are you using?  Switch over to the Gamakatsu skip gap hook, it will help tons.  This is the only non Trokar hook I use and it's because it helps tons with line twist.  I get zero line twist fishing flukes on casting and spinning gear, maybe I'm the one in a million angler, but you got off to a good start by going with braid.

Posted

I get line twist even using my casting gear with flukes.  Its just gonna come with using them.  You cant get the hook perfectly centered every single time. At least not if your over 40 and nature has taken its course on your eyes.  Most of the twist comes from retrieving fast to the boat to launch a quick cast.  A fluke by its shape is going to twist your line when getting retrieved fast straight in.  The very shape that's hydro-dynamically engineered to be erratic does it.  A keal weighted hook might help.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.