Air Brushing Lures?

[GoTakeANap]

How hard is it to learn how to Air Brush? Would like to make some custom lures for myself and to pick up as a hobby. Any advice on airbrushing in general? Was looking at the Paasche Air Brush Kit VL-3 Set. Good set?

 

[Snakehead Whisperer]

How hard is it to learn how to Air Brush? Would like to make some custom lures for myself and to pick up as a hobby. Any advice on airbrushing in general? Was looking at the Paasche Air Brush Kit VL-3 Set. Good set?

I would highly recommend a gravity fed type airbrush for painting lures. The one you posted is a siphon feed, and not ideal for the small amounts of paint used for painting lures. Check this thread out, it has a lot of great info on airbrushing. 

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/116276-intro-to-airbrushing/

 

Post some pics if you paint some lures. I'm probably not the only person who would love to see them.

[Swamp Johnny]

After painting hundreds of lures now, I think the hardest part is actually painting them. (I know that sounds silly) If you are starting from scratch and have no artistic abilities, background or knowledge in painting, actually getting to the place where you are making a quality lure that is as nice looking as a commercial /branded lure requires diligence and stamina. (Stamina?? Because you must endure some major "fails"! lol)  

 

I remember the first day I painted my first Crank. I thought it was the easiest thing in the world! Wow! Squirt, Squirt! Done! (lol) Then I started looking around at other peoples work and realized I had a long way to go, (still do!). 

 

I'd say the best advice I could give you would be,"Don't expect immediate results!". Buy some practice blanks- and practice. Learn, (and memorize) the procedures on how to make your favorite Crank, (shad, splatter, craw, Etc) before you start investing too much (lol) Otherwise, you'll end up like me- got to start a business to get some money back for all the stuff I've purchased! (LOL)  

 

Use Createx paint- it's worth it in the long run. Like Snakehead mentions- use a gravity fed airbrush. Buy some tool- (veil making stuff found in a fabric store or at Walmart) Make a stencil. Purchase some quality 2 TON 30 minute epoxy. Get some good 5mm, 6mm and 7mm 3D eyes.  

 

Most of all- Try to have fun. Try not to explode when you make a magnificent lure......and then ruin it ! (lol)

 

Hope this helps?   

[PondBoss]

Watch as many videos as you can.  I watched hours of youtube videos before I started.  I'd like to think I make a half way decent bait.  Don't be intimidated by some of the aweseome work you see.  They all started out just like you.  I think you'll find it's only as hard as you make it.  I've been doing simple baits 2-4 colors and the hardest part is finding the right clear coat. lol  Take solice in knowing you;ll get better.  I see huge improvement in my second batch of baits over my first.  Last but not least be patiant.  You'll be using water colors, so if you screw up, a little warm water is all you need to creat a clean slate.

[BobP]

The Paasche VL is a decent airbrush though I think the tip sizes are not optimized for crankbaits.  Most airbrushing excellence comes from raw artistic ability + practice, and not from the equipment you choose.  But good equipment makes the learning curve easier.  My choice after 15 yrs of crankbait painting is an Iwata Revolution B, which is an inexpensive (less than $100) brush with a .3mm tip and a gravity feed cup.  You won't find the tip sizes listed for Paasche VL's, but I think all of them are larger than .3mm.  The siphon feed on the VL is also not ideal.  Another recommendation I have is to start out with airbrush formulated paint and stick with it.  It's only sightly more expensive than cheap hobby acrylic paint and it will shoot much more reliably through an airbrush, saving countless hours of aggravation.    

[PondBoss]

The Paasche VL is a decent airbrush though I think the tip sizes are not optimized for crankbaits.  Most airbrushing excellence comes from raw artistic ability + practice, and not from the equipment you choose.  But good equipment makes the learning curve easier.  My choice after 15 yrs of crankbait painting is an Iwata Revolution B, which is an inexpensive (less than $100) brush with a .3mm tip and a gravity feed cup.  You won't find the tip sizes listed for Paasche VL's, but I think all of them are larger than .3mm.  The siphon feed on the VL is also not ideal.  Another recommendation I have is to start out with airbrush formulated paint and stick with it.  It's only sightly more expensive than cheap hobby acrylic paint and it will shoot much more reliably through an airbrush, saving countless hours of aggravation.    

Not sure I agree with your assessment about airbrushing excellence.  From what I can tell and have heard a lot of people have little to zero artistic ability when they get started.  I know I personally have zero artistic ability, but can manage a pretty decent bait after only trying a couple of times.

 

I totally agree with your thoughts on paint.  You will be better of using paints that are ready for airbrushing right out of the bottle.  I learned pretty much immediately that trying to thin those cheap acrylic paints is just not worth the added hassle and frustration.

[Christian M]

Not sure I agree with your assessment about airbrushing excellence. From what I can tell and have heard a lot of people have little to zero artistic ability when they get started. I know I personally have zero artistic ability, but can manage a pretty decent bait after only trying a couple of times.

I totally agree with your thoughts on paint. You will be better of using paints that are ready for airbrushing right out of the bottle. I learned pretty much immediately that trying to thin those cheap acrylic paints is just not worth the added hassle and frustration.

By all means, do urself a favor and buy createx paint. You can buy sets of basic createx colors and learn to mix your own custom colors. However, I still thin my createx paint. It's very, very rare that I buy a bottle and can paint without thinning it.

As far as artistic ability, as an artist I feel my education and experience affords me the ability to visualize then execute lure designs, patterns, & color combinations without as much trial & error

[Snakehead Whisperer]

By all means, do urself a favor and buy createx paint. You can buy sets of basic createx colors and learn to mix your own custom colors. However, I still thin my createx paint. It's very, very rare that I buy a bottle and can paint without thinning it.

What do you thin with? I mix 1 quart of water with a drop of dish soap personally, then thin as needed with that.

 

The opaque white Createx requires the most thinning in my experience, where as the transparent colors and the pearls sometimes require very little. Thinning seems to help atomize the paint better, regardless. 

[BobP]

There are many better painters with much less experience than me around, including guys using a Paasche VL or a Badger 170.  I've had quite a bit of practice on lures but will never produce any of the jewel-quality crankbait art you can see on tackleunderground.com.  So yes, I think raw artistic ability has a lot to do with it - at least as much as the equipment you use.  Good equipment makes learning faster and easier but most of us will never rise above journeyman level as crankbait painters.  But not to worry!  Fortunately, If you paint to catch bass, you'll find "standard" paint patterns are not that difficult and bass are not art critics.  

[wishin fisherman]

I have painted for many years and would have to say use the very best equipment you can afford to buy.Without the frustration of equipment problems you can do a lot better work.Keep patterns simple use stencils when possible and try thinning your paints with automotive windshield washer solvent.Use the cheap stuff it is mostly alcohol paints dry quick and I use it in all my paints it even helps with the cheap acrylic paints.You can paint faster and don't have to wait for drying time.

[Christian M]

What do you thin with? I mix 1 quart of water with a drop of dish soap personally, then thin as needed with that.

 

The opaque white Createx requires the most thinning in my experience, where as the transparent colors and the pearls sometimes require very little. Thinning seems to help atomize the paint better, regardless. 

I've heard about people using dish soap, hand soap, and even wood floor cleaner. Honestly, I almost always use water. I take a dropper and thin the paint one drop at a time until I get it to spray consistantly. Occasionally I'll use Createx thinner on really tough colors...like opaque white...but i'll give the dish soap a try, sounds like it would be less abrasive, thanks for the tip!

[sarcazmo]

Went to my local hobby lobby to see if I could check out what they had.  Unfortunately I didnt know they were closed on Sundays.

 

I think I'm ready to pull the trigger, and it seems like Iwata stuff seems to be the most highly regarded.  Hobby lobby online doesnt seem to have a ton of stuff online.  I have found the revolution on ebay but I was wondering if there is an 'all in one' kit that includes brush and compressor you guys would recommend?

[KDW96]

Theses postings are some really great learning tools. Ive always wanted to try airbrushing. I know theres alot more to learn,but ive learn alot just from this post.