Types Of Fishing Lines

[nebraskalargemouthhunter]

what type of fishing line should I use for a jig, spinner, drop shot, buzz bait and a crank bait?

[motodmast]

i would recommed fluorocarbon for all those setups

 

jig/spinnerbait/buzzbait use 17 or 20lb if flippin or pitchin  or 12-14lb if in open water

 

dropshot 6-8lb

 

crankbait i use 12-14lb

[Koofy Smacker]

Jig- 15-17 lb fluorocarbon. Great line around rocks and cover

 

Spinnerbait- No reason for expensive fluoro since its a reaction bite, 12-15 lb mono is perfect. Also gives a little stretch which aids in hookups

 

Drop Shot- depends on cover for lb test. Fluoro either way but 6-8 lb test for open water and a little more cover respectively

 

Buzzbait- NOT fluoro. It sinks and makes it hard to keep the bait up. No advantages too it. 12-15 lb mono depending on if your over weeds or open water

 

Crankbait- Depends on what cranks you throw. For example a deep diver I would go with 12 lb fluoro. Thin diameter and sinks so it lets you get your bait deeper. Squarebills I would go 15 lb because your running them through cover. Copoly/mono/fluoro for a shallow crank doesnt really matter however I use a 15 lb copoly so it stays shallower and it gives me a little more stretch to keep the hooks from ripping out.

[mc6524]

With all do respect Koofy Smacker, there are less expensive flurocoated lines out there that makes sense to use for all applications except top water and jerk baits. To-Zurich and P-line fluroclear are two good examples. This becomes even more important when fishing clear water where diameter as well as invisibility in fishing lines becomes even more important.

[Paul Roberts]

I often use braid for jigs, SBs, and plastics with a short mono leader. I use very light braid for some finesse applications with a FC leader.

 

I also use straight FC for some subsurface applications, in deeper water and when there is wind to contend with.

 

I use straight mono for treble hooks -CBs and topwater.

 

I have extra spools for all spinning reels, and some dedicated casting reels.

[nebraskalargemouthhunter]

alright you guys, thanks for all the help

[Koofy Smacker]

With all do respect Koofy Smacker, there are less expensive flurocoated lines out there that makes sense to use for all applications except top water and jerk baits. To-Zurich and P-line fluroclear are two good examples. This becomes even more important when fishing clear water where diameter as well as invisibility in fishing lines becomes even more important.

First off, YoZuri and P-Line Fluoroclear are not fluorocarbon lines. They are fluorocarbon coated. Hence the reason why they are so cheap compared to 100% fluoro lines. Basically they give you more abrasion resistance. The reason fluoro is clear in water is because its density is nearly exact to that of water, making its light refraction about the same as water letting you "see through it". Fluoro coated lines have a normal line core, taking away the mainstay property of a fluoro, invisibility. Great advertising if they are getting you to think that its invisible.

 

Fluoro is only a gain when the fish get to look at your bait, or in any possibility where they can become line shy. Reaction strikes have no chance, 0% chance of having line seen. Moving baits, such as spinnerbaits, and crankbaits do not need clear line. A good mono will achieve more than a fluoro in this case. What do you look for in a crankbait rod? The answer notoriously is a medium to medium heavy power rod with a moderate to moderate fast action to "let the trebles get a hold and to not rip them out of the fishes mouth". So, that said, why buy a line that is known for less stretch than mono? Stretch is good with treble hooks or whenever you are fishing baits that have a good chance of getting a poor hookset with.

 

I agree, fluoro has it's advantages, however all the hype these days about everything fluoro or braid is a total waste of money.

 

Gin clear water such as Lake Powell is a different story where you can see the bottom in 40+ ft of water. But 99% of water in this country has a stain making these lines pointless for moving baits.

 

Just my .02. If it gives me an advantage at all, I will do it. But not here, more disadvantages than advantages.

[mc6524]

Actually the research shows that fluro isn't completely invisible under water. It is close but the larger the diameter of the line the more visible it becomes. Fluro actually has more stretch than they wnt you to believe; therefore, my choice is a flurocoated line and I rarely fish anything greater than 12 lb test because of the diameter. So, IMO if I'm going to pay a similar price for mono than a fluro coated line, why buy mono. Mono absorbs water, is effected by UV light, and in many cases you have less knot strength. In addition, for every under surface technique except a jerk bait having a line that sinks gives you a better presentation. Speaking of presentation and reaction strikes, if I'm looking to get as close to natural presentation as I can get, even with a reaction stike, why would go with anything but fluro or a fluro coated line? I don't have to worry about water clarity at all.

[Koofy Smacker]

Actually the research shows that fluro isn't completely invisible under water. It is close but the larger the diameter of the line the more visible it becomes. Fluro actually has more stretch than they wnt you to believe; therefore, my choice is a flurocoated line and I rarely fish anything greater than 12 lb test because of the diameter. So, IMO if I'm going to pay a similar price for mono than a fluro coated line, why buy mono. Mono absorbs water, is effected by UV light, and in many cases you have less knot strength. In addition, for every under surface technique except a jerk bait having a line that sinks gives you a better presentation. Speaking of presentation and reaction strikes, if I'm looking to get as close to natural presentation as I can get, even with a reaction stike, why would go with anything but fluro or a fluro coated line? I don't have to worry about water clarity at all.

Obviously two different opinions and we arent going to change eachothers minds.

 

But to answer your questions which you posed as statements:

-I know it isnt completely invisible. But fluoro coated lines have caused me kink and break issues in the past which when you put over a thousand hours in a year like I do can cause issues an awful lot. I dont like the stuff at all.

-I did not claim it had no stretch, I claimed it had less stretch, which it does. Depending on lb test of course.

-Breakage on fluoro is closer to being its labeled lb test while mono is usually underrated, resulting in the increased diameter.

Not sure why diameter is such an issue with you either

 

Anyway, dont want to get this thread too off track for the poster. Hopefully you got something useful out of our rants. I guess you could say it comes down to personal preference.

[mc6524]

I understand and agree. I was just focusing on ther being a lot of misinformation about fishing lines. It does boil down to preference. I've had excellent success with yo-Zurich and P-line though I think P-line has a little more memory.

[SirSnookalot]

It is preference.  I fish braid with a leader and spinning gear 100% of the time in freshwater, I've given up on F/C leaders several years ago.  A few instances where I fish mono or copoly, my lines are always trolled out, as these lines are only used by me in saltwater no reason to expand on the reasons.