BenBassmaster Posted April 12, 2013 Posted April 12, 2013 Ok, so my grandpa has a melting pot for making weights, jig heads, etc. So I decided to order a mold from TWH; I decided to get the Football Jig Head mold. My only question is what is the difference between weedless Football mold 1, and weedless Football 2. Any help deciphering the differences between these two would be appreciated. It won't let me post the link to TWH, so just seach "Jig Molds" and it should come up. Thanks, Ben Quote
wnybassman Posted April 13, 2013 Posted April 13, 2013 Any help deciphering the differences between these two would be appreciated. The difference is about six bucks. lol Seriously though, I don't know. I have one of those molds, but not sure which one. Quote
cadman Posted April 13, 2013 Posted April 13, 2013 Ben, Here is the deal on these molds. I have all of the Do-it molds, so I am 99% that I am correct. Weedless Football Jig $33.99 is Do-It's cross reference ##3318 model FBW-4-AF , 4 cavity mold 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 oz.This mold accepts aberdeen hooks. Aberdeen hooks are meant to be bent and rebent if they get stuck. It is a weedless jig, that accepts a weedguard. If you are looking for a more versatile "Bass" foot ball jig buy the one below. Weedless Football Jig II $39.99 is Do-It's cross reference ##3434 model FBB-4H-AFM , 4 cavity mold 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 oz.This mold accepts two styles of hooks. Mustad #32786 (regular hook eye) and Mustad #32798 (flat eye). Both hooks are 60 degree. Also this mold will take a wide variety of other hooks along with different brands. It is a weedless jig, that accepts a weedguard. I strongly recommend this mold as it has a lot of flexibilty. Pm me I have some better pricing info for you to look into. Quote
pabassr Posted April 13, 2013 Posted April 13, 2013 The difference is Mold #1 - 4 cavities: 1/4,3/8,1/2,3/4oz. using eagle claw 570 hooks,mustad 32756 hook, gamakatsu 604 hook. Mold # 2 - 4 cavities: 1/8,1/4,3/8,1/2oz. using mustad 32798bln or mustad 32786bln hooks Quote
BenBassmaster Posted April 13, 2013 Author Posted April 13, 2013 Thanks for all the replies, your help is appreciated. Quote
Downeaster2010 Posted April 14, 2013 Posted April 14, 2013 If you dig deep into the hooks section of the Do-It mold catalogue, you will see other hooks that will fit man of the molds that Do-it has, and not mentioned on the mold itself. Some of the other hooks would work well. I have been building jigs with Do-It molds for 30 years, and often will put a 570 in where it calls for a 630. Often it lightens up the jig, and the 570 is more capable of hooking smallmouth, than the 630 style. The mold suggest an appropriate hook to use, but in reality many other hooks may fit, and do a better job. For years Do-It molds mostly suggested the Mustard and Oshannesay style of hook, but more recently even suggest Gamagatsu style. With over 10 different hooks mentioned in their mold catalog, many others fit as well. Read the catalogue carefully where hooks are mentioned. Quote
BenBassmaster Posted April 14, 2013 Author Posted April 14, 2013 If you dig deep into the hooks section of the Do-It mold catalogue, you will see other hooks that will fit man of the molds that Do-it has, and not mentioned on the mold itself. Some of the other hooks would work well. I have been building jigs with Do-It molds for 30 years, and often will put a 570 in where it calls for a 630. Often it lightens up the jig, and the 570 is more capable of hooking smallmouth, than the 630 style. The mold suggest an appropriate hook to use, but in reality many other hooks may fit, and do a better job. For years Do-It molds mostly suggested the Mustard and Oshannesay style of hook, but more recently even suggest Gamagatsu style. With over 10 different hooks mentioned in their mold catalog, many others fit as well. Read the catalogue carefully where hooks are mentioned. If I order the mold does it come with the manual you are talking about? Quote
cadman Posted April 14, 2013 Posted April 14, 2013 Ben, If you call up Do-It, they will send you a free jig mold catalog. In this catalog, they have all of their molds that they currently sell with the appropriate hook that the mold was originally made for. Another better source would be to go on Barlow's website, and when you find your mold, they will tell you every hook that will fit in that mold. It is an excellent source of information on molds and hooks. 1 Quote
BenBassmaster Posted April 14, 2013 Author Posted April 14, 2013 Ben, If you call up Do-It, they will send you a free jig mold catalog. In this catalog, they have all of their molds that they currently sell with the appropriate hook that the mold was originally made for. Another better source would be to go on Barlow's website, and when you find your mold, they will tell you every hook that will fit in that mold. It is an excellent source of information on molds and hooks. Ok, thanks. Quote
cadman Posted April 14, 2013 Posted April 14, 2013 Ben, Just some honest information here. If you have never poured lead before, I would suggest you be very very careful. Lead does burn and even the smallest splashes cause 3rd degree burns. So make sure you are paying attention to what you are doing. Although making your own jigs is fun and all, pouring the lead part is extremely dangerous. Don't take it for granted. One wrong step and you will get seriously burned. I'm not trying to scare you but it is what it is. The best way to learn how to pour is from someone that is already knowledgeable in this. Please be safe. Quote
BenBassmaster Posted April 14, 2013 Author Posted April 14, 2013 Ben, Just some honest information here. If you have never poured lead before, I would suggest you be very very careful. Lead does burn and even the smallest splashes cause 3rd degree burns. So make sure you are paying attention to what you are doing. Although making your own jigs is fun and all, pouring the lead part is extremely dangerous. Don't take it for granted. One wrong step and you will get seriously burned. I'm not trying to scare you but it is what it is. The best way to learn how to pour is from someone that is already knowledgeable in this. Please be safe. Yes, I understand; I'll have gloves, a face mask, fans pointed at me to circulate air, and opened garage doors open at my grandparents when I pour. I will be EXTREMELY careful, thanks for your help. Quote
Super User smalljaw67 Posted April 14, 2013 Super User Posted April 14, 2013 Yes, I understand; I'll have gloves, a face mask, fans pointed at me to circulate air, and opened garage doors open at my grandparents when I pour. I will be EXTREMELY careful, thanks for your help. Don't forget long sleeve shirt preferably cotton, and long pants and shoes. The reason it is very important for the **** is because if the lead splashes and hits your arm you aren't going to just brush it off, it will stick to your skin immediately and you'll have to peel it off and at 600 degrees it hurts. The reason for cotton is to keep 2nd degree burns from happening, synthetic fibers like poyester will melt instanly and stick to your skin should the lead splash and hit your shirt, while it is better to have at least any long sleeve shirt on a cotton one will make it that much safer. Quote
BenBassmaster Posted April 14, 2013 Author Posted April 14, 2013 Don't forget long sleeve shirt preferably cotton, and long pants and shoes. The reason it is very important for the **** is because if the lead splashes and hits your arm you aren't going to just brush it off, it will stick to your skin immediately and you'll have to peel it off and at 600 degrees it hurts. The reason for cotton is to keep 2nd degree burns from happening, synthetic fibers like poyester will melt instanly and stick to your skin should the lead splash and hit your shirt, while it is better to have at least any long sleeve shirt on a cotton one will make it that much safer. Ok thanks for the tip. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.