Carolina Rig Tips

[Nick_Barr]

Where i live,  We will have to go deeper than usual to find our summer fish and i dont fish a c-rig often and need to learn it a little better. If anybody has any tips they would be greatly appreciated.

[ball_coach_1]

I like Carolina riggin' a BUNCH.  Back home, that is the way to catch the fish this time of year.  Up in NE Ohio, I think the fish made it illegal and stay in the skinny water most of the time.

You can look at some articles here on this site that will be a lot more detailed than me, and I will keep from typing all night.  Basically, main line, sinker (egg sinker is my preference), bead(s), swivel, liter, hook.   In that order, top to the bottom. I prefer a braid with a flourocarbon liter.  Play with the liter length...short as 12 inches, and maybe up to 3+feet.  I would guess the average is around 18".

Depends on the water you are fishing....over a grassline, etc.   Use your electronics, attempt to find summer haunts....drag main and secondary lake points, around or over grass beds, humps and ledges, or even fish it is skinny water near deeper water.

What do you put on the hook???  That is my biggest issue fishing a c-rig.  Finding what the fish want ONCE I find them.  My ol' reliable is a lizard, but worm, finesse worms, fries and 'pedes, flukes, senkos, creature baits and tubes.  Take your pick.

Occasionally, haven't done it up here, but one lake in Northern KY, a c-rigged Rapala or floating crank almost always got a bite this time of year.  One problem...money.  Good way to catch fish if you know you have a good chance at losing some.

Hope this helps...again, I would go to read some articles to find some detailed help...hope this gets ya started.  Good fishin'.

[Brad_Coovert]

Nick, the Crig is a great summer bass catcher.  In fact, I have one tied on all year as it works shallow and deep in any water temp.  You can cover a lot of water quickly and the heavy weight also lets you learn a lot about the bottom also.

Any type of structure such as drops, channels, long points, flats, ledges, humps, etc.  are all great places for the Crig.

Basic set-up is a long, MH or heavy action rod.  Your 7' CD will work fine, but if you can get one, a 7'6" BI or a 7'6" BA will be better.  I use 15 lb. line for my Crig with a 15 lb. leader.  Some people use a lighter leader in case they snag just the hook, that way they save the weight and bead, but I have not noticed any more loss in weights using the same weight line for my leader.

My rig is usually a 3/4 oz. black brass weight, a brass ticker, a glass bead, a plastic bead with a large hole to protect the knot and then a swivel.  Next is the leader, usually around 2'-3' then the hook, usually an EWG that fits the plastic I am using and the hook is always skin hooked.

For baits, I like Senkos, Beavers, Brush Hogs, lizards and Ring Frys.  About any plastis will work.

As for working the bait, I cast it out, let it hit bottom and wait a second, move the bait feeling for a fish, let it sit, shake it a few times and repeat.  Bites can be subtle or the fish may try to pull you out of the boat.  Using the bait and catching fish on it is the only thing that is gonna really teach you this rig.

Hope this helps.

BTW Nick - I'll be seeing Brent next week.  Any thing you want me to ask him?

Brad

[Nick_Barr]

Just see if he can lower the price on the team stickers, $3 each, i dont have enough money to buy many more stickers. I have too much stuff that deserves to have an ESOX Rods Sticker on it.

[Sweetwater]

i generally fish a crig in deep(8 feet and deeper) water for bigger bass. I generally target main lake structure such as humps, points, and channels with the crig.

My c-rig is always weighted by a 3/4 to 1 ounce sinker, unpegged. If i have to fish a pegged weight, i'll go texas rig, split shot,  or weightless trick worm. The heavy weight allows better feel of the bottom. Letting it slide freely allows a more natural presentation, and allows the bass to feel no resistance when they pick up the bait, which lets them hold on to it longer. I can also heave the heavy rig a long distance.

With this rig, the following are key points:

1 The single most important thing to remember is; slow down if not catching fish. When you bump something, stop. Don't be afraid to let the bait sit still. Many times I have caught bass after picking out a backlash.

2. Line watching and feel are the two skills most important to c-rigging.  If you've ever bottom fished live bait on the bottom for cats, shellcrackers, etc. you've had some experience at line watching.

 Over time, you'll develop a feel for how the line should look and feel normally while dragging the rig. Most of the time, bites are detected by seeing the line move in an unnatural direction. It'll move to one side or the other, or get tighter/looser, on it's own.

 Learning to detect bites by pure feel takes more time to develop. My crig rod is a cheap 7' bps graphite rod, i use pline, but I usually feel the bass taking the bait because I've fished a crig for 20 odd years. Always keep a thumb on the spool. When letting the bait sit, take some line in your fingers. Maintain proper line tension, always having loose contact with the bait.

3. Line tension. In order to have proper feel, one must maintain contact with the bait. However, too much tension can cause fish to drop baits early, and also takes away from the natural movement of the plastic bait. Always try to keep a nice bow in the line.

Generally, leader length is dictated by water conditions and cover present. Clear, open water calls for a longer leader. Stained water with cover calls for shorter leader.

The easiest piece of the puzzle is bait color /type. On larger lakes, the hot plastic is usually well known. But in general, darker colors like junebug, red shad, black, in larger sizes, in vibrating shapes like lizards and twist tail worms for deeper,  stained water. Natural  colors like watermelon seed, in smaller sizes in straight shapes that produce less vibration(Senko, finese worm, trick worm) for clear, well lit water.

[Rattlinrogue]

That's some good stuff,guys! I gotta get with the program on the C-rig.I have a question.When setting the hook is it similar to the way you do it with a T-rig or is it more of a sweeping motion?

[shiloh]

What are the pros and cons of a C-rig vs,

1) split shot rig

2) drop shot rig

??

[bassinchik]

I am "Rogue's" wife, and we fish often.  I love fishing soft bait, but using the C-rig just feels awkward to me....my problem is in casting.  It seems to have a "slingshot" feel to it, and I am having troubles getting the rhythm of a smooth cast.  Guess I just need to cast it more often and just get used to it.  Lately, I have been using spinners and allowing them to drop before retrieving to get my depth instead of using the C-rig.  I fish water that is usually 4-9 ft. and the fish are showing up about halfway down, so I am trying to get SOME depth, but not scraping the bottom.  I am having some luck with spinners, but of course I want to use worms and lizards.  Any helpful hits on casting the C-rig?

[Sweetwater]

Bassinchick.......

The c-rig can be difficult to cast. In general; The lighter the sinker, the longer the leader, the harder the c-rig is to cast.

Some tips:

1. Use a 3/4 ounce sinker minimum. If left unpegged, the fish won't feel the heavier weight. Casting is easier,and feel is improved.

2. At mimimum, use a 7' MH rod.

3. Be smooth during the entire casting motion. I usually pause for just a second at the end of my backswing before starting forward motion.

It takes time to get the feel right for casting the c-rig. Like everything else, practice makes perfect.

Rouge....

Most of the time, I reel down to the fish and it hangs                

itself. But use a smooth sweep.

[Brad_Coovert]

shiloh

The split shot rig is nothing more than a mini Crig.  Great for smaller weights, baits and light line.  One thing I have noticed with a split shot rig is the light weight forces you to slow down which is a good thing for pressured fish.

The drop shot is just another method for fishing a plastic bait.  You can use it in all the same places as Crig, but with the drop shot, you can work a bait in place much longer.

Brad

[spotaholic]

In the summer time I really like to fish a senko or a zoom fish doctor on the c-rig. It is al ittle different than the normal worm,lizard or crawfish. I also like to pump instead of drag it. One more tactic instead of fishing deep to shallow switch it up and put your boat inside edge and throw to the deeper water. Everyone else is presenting the bait the other way and it gives the fish a different look. On pressured water this is deadly. I will also  c-rig on a spinning rod with light weight and finesse worm and throw it right to the waters edge and slow swim it back. Hold onto the rod because you might get your arm ripped off. It's all about doing something alittle differnt.

[Sweetwater]

shiloh:

I fish a C-rig on heavier tackle in less visible water, where the fish prefer a larger bait that produces vibration,like a zoom magnum lizard or old monster.

When targeting bass(Usually spots) in clearer water using smaller, quieter, baits, I use a drop shot or split shot.                                                                

[Rattlinrogue]

Thanks for the help,guys.

[shiloh]

I would also think that the drop shot rig would be more sensitive than the c-rig, since you don't have the weight between you and the bait...yes?

[abelfisher]

One of the better threads I've read in a while regarding tactics.  Good job guys!  Very useful info for me!

[Sweetwater]

Shiloh....

In theory, a dropshot rig should be more sensitive than a carolina rig, but I've not fished a drop shot rig enough to say.

I will say this about sensitivity in a c-rig....

My c-rig outfit,which also doubles as my jig/pig rig, jigging spoon rig, and sometime striper-catfish live bait rig, is an 8 year old mega cast low profile on the cheapest bps graphite rod in 7' mh. It is the first baitcaster I ever owned,and cost $30 new. It is spooled with pline.

The sensitivity in my rig is more than good enough for crigging. Most times fish take  the bait, I feel it. Reading the bottom is not a problem.

The keys to sensitivity in a crig are: Rigging and proper technique.

Rigging:

I use a crig when targeting open water structure 6 feet and deeper where cover is scattered or absent,  or in deep weeds. A big weight is no issue for my crigging, so I throw a 1 ounce sinker 98% of the time. The heavier the weight,the better the feel and ability to work the line.

Use brass or tungsten.

The rig must consist of unpegged weight-plastic bead-clacker-swivel-leader to maximize feel. I fished a lead weight for years before finally trying brass, which amplifies vibration from the line like guitar pickups do. I use a plastic bead instead of glass because I feel it transmits more vibration than glass.

Technique:

Proper line tension when working the bait is crucial to sensitivity and strike detection.

A small bow must be kept in the line at all times, but particularly on the fall, when most strikes occur. This  allows a fish to take the bait without feeling any weight or rod. The weight of the bow keeps the main line in contact with the inside of the brass, maximizing vibration transmitted up the line.  

Also, I always keep a thumb on the spool and a finger on the blank. If I get a tap that I'm unsure about; I'll lower the rod tip some and take some line  in my off hand fingers,still keeping the bow in the line. Many times I can feel a fish that took the bait and hasn't moved.

[roadwarrior]

Wow!

I nominate this as our #1 Thread.

Everything you need to know and the how to, also.

Excellent.

[Muddpuppy]

I'll second that.  That was a good read, I learned a couple of things I am going to try to do differently now.

[Rattlinrogue]

I've now been using the c-rig for several months,and it has become one of my favorite ways to fish.One piece of advice that I can give has to do with fishing a c-rig in cold water.I've noticed that I get a lot more bites in cold water when I use a plastic that has a more subtle movement.When it's hot,I like a lizard with curly arms,legs,and tail.In cold water,I'm catching more bass on a 6" finese worm.Any plastic with the subtle movement should work(such as a senko type bait).I'm thinking the more subtle movement is percieved by the bass as a slower meal that they might catch easier with less effort.

[abelfisher]

Great Idea, RR!  I think you might be onto something here.  I have been using lizards on my c-rig 100% of the time.  But it is getting much cooler here, and I should probably change up my bait.  Thanks for the tip.  I am going to try tomorrow.  

[fisherman_54]

i dont crig a lot. i use a 7'6 daiwa on a quantum iron inshore baitcaster. the baitcaster is made for 200 yrds of 20 i believe and im trying to decide on whether to use braid or stick with mono?

[Rattlinrogue]

Fisherman 54,I'm using 20 lb Yo-Zuri as my main line and 10 lb Berkley Sensation as my leader.I've been having pretty good results.

[BIGG D]

in winter time,, i prefer to use centapede or french fry( 4 in) it seem to work well for me..

[ARCHER]

Great stuff....

Thanks to all of you.

Archer

[flyhatch]

I am "Rogue's" wife, and we fish often.  I love fishing soft bait, but using the C-rig just feels awkward to me....my problem is in casting.  It seems to have a "slingshot" feel to it, and I am having troubles getting the rhythm of a smooth cast.  Guess I just need to cast it more often and just get used to it.  Lately, I have been using spinners and allowing them to drop before retrieving to get my depth instead of using the C-rig.  I fish water that is usually 4-9 ft. and the fish are showing up about halfway down, so I am trying to get SOME depth, but not scraping the bottom.  I am having some luck with spinners, but of course I want to use worms and lizards.  Any helpful hits on casting the C-rig?

if found that if i focus on the heavy sinker and not the end of the line for casting that i get smoother longer casts

hope that helps

e