Completely Frustrated With Spinning Reel Line Loops

[georgeyew]

I am getting loops coming off my spinning reel on every cast and it is driving me crazy. I have tried Sufix Elite and Trilene XL in 8 and 10lb weight, and still getting loops every time. I think that I am putting the line on correctly. My bail spins counter clockwise, so I pull the line off in a counter clockwise from the spool. I even resorted to using the KVD line conditioner. I am getting loops even after treating the line over 3 consecutive nights. What am I doing wrong. I am considering switching to braid to get rid of the loops, but I am hesistant to pay the high price. Can anyone help?

[kickerfish1]

Asside from what you have done, perhaps the spool is a bit overfilled? Also if you close the bail of the reel manually, by hand, instead of relying on cranking the handle over to engage it, this will help a bit.

My tips for spinning reel frustration prevention are:

1. Spool the line to an 1/8 or 1/16th of an inch from the spool lip.

2. For a 2500 series reel or similar size, use 8# line give or take.

3. Use KVD line and lure as necessary for mono and floro

4. Spool the line on the reel properly

5. Close the bail by hand

6. Check the reel frequently for loops

[tomustang]

Are you closing the bail by hand?

[georgeyew]

Yes, I always close the bail by hand.

[Scott F]

I can see by the photo that you have too much line on the spool. With mono or fluoro, leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the edge of the spool showing. Closing the bail by hand does not stop the problem by itself. After you close the bail, even if you do it by turning the handle, you have to pull on the line until it hits the line roller. Line memory and the springy qualities of mono were what caused me to switch to superlines.

Braid may be more expensive to purchase, but it lasts so much longer than mono, that in the long run, it's cheaper to use.

[Koofy Smacker]

did you do this?

 

-put the filler spool on the ground, label up so the line comes off the spool counter clockwise. Reel under MODERATE pressure, not too tight that your squeezing and heating up the line, and not too light that it is loose on the spool?

 

If you do the above with a mono you should not have any problems given that it is fresh line and hasnt been sitting in heat or in direct sunlight. How long has it been on the reel for?

[The Rooster]

I gave up on label up or label down positioning of the spool and I wind line on the same as on a baitcaster now.

[islandbass]

I concur with ScottF. Looks might be deceiving as it is not a close up, but that looks like way too much line.  The only time what you describe happens to me is when I over spool.  I reckon that if you remove enough line to get to 1/8" from the spool, your "problem" will go away.

[Darren.]

Agreed the line looks like too much wound on.

 

But you can also avoid line loops by using braid for your mainline instead of mono, fluoro, etc. Only looping I worry about is braid looping around my tip top. Other than that, management is a breeze so long as you don't over spool the line.

[38 Super Fan]

Yup, you've definately overfilled it.  

[HeavyDluxe]

Edit:  I hadn't looked at the image when I made my original post.  The main problem here is an over-filled spool as others have noted.  I'm removing my (off-topic) response.

[Crookedneck]

A couple things

1.)  I agree with the over filling.

2.)  A couple things you can do

     a.)  If you fish off of a boat, remove the lure from your line.  Open your bail and let all the line out as you slowly motor or troll.  (hopefully in a low traffic area)

           I usually let all the line out until there are a half a dozen wraps or so on the spool.  After all the line is out, start reeling as normal.  The tension on the line in the water will allow you to reel as normal.  This should remove any coils, twist or loops.

      b.) If you don't have a boat you can do the same thing on shore by tying a swivel on the end of the line.  Attaching the swivel to something solid.  Walk the line out and then reel it in as you walk back in keeping tension the whole time.  This will allow any twist to be removed by the swivel 

 

The first of these methods works the best in my opinion.  I find I get alot of twist if I am using floro on spinning gear for drop shotting or if I am jigging vertically with a grub,  if I don't have a swivel tied in some where.

 

Good luck!

[SirSnookalot]

Not much to add to Scott F's opinion, except that I would troll my line out completely before I fished it.  2 separate issues that are not related, 1 being the line coiling that's seems to be the initial problem and Scott F's has recommended some helpful information, I would try soaking the line in hot water first and if needed at a later time just take your spool off and soak it, it takes less than 10 minutes.

 

2nd issue is line twist, closing the bail by hand is a smoother more natural operation IMO, but it only tightens the line to start cranking, you will get twist just by the line being wrapped around a fixed spool, nature of the beast.  BB swivels may help a little, I've read using the the best ones in the smallest sizes, but I don't think it's a cure all as I use nothing but Sampo swivels and I still get twist.  Ball chain swivels seem to work better than anything, I've tried them for bass fishing and the improvement was nil, other techniques and species I swear by them.

[0119]

Im not sure who makes the Avenger, Okuma I think.  Do they offer some type of anti twist technology similar to Daiwa or shimano's?  I suspect Okuma suggests in the reel manual to spool up much like they do.  Line coming off the bottom of the spool from the spools side, not facing up in the traditional way.  Im afraid you are going to always suffer from this situation because that model from Okuma has a small diameter spool which just promotes the coiling.

[georgeyew]

Thanks for all the info. I will remove a little line from the spool and see if that will help. I was hoping that the KVD line conditioner would help since I've heard so many praises about it. But it doesn't seem to help in my situation.

 

Also, the line is fresh from Walmart, bought 3 days ago.

[OkeechobeeAngler]

If your line is twisted when you put the kvd line conditioner on it will stay twisted. Got to get rid of loops.

[jhoffman]

Im going to suggest going to a softer mono in a lighter lb test. My spinning reels are all running 8lb max but mostly 6lb seguar red label. Suffix, i love their braid but their heavy mono was a nightmare for me.

[retiredbosn]

The reel in the pix is over filled

[slonezp]

It's overfilled.

I saw KVD speak at the local fishing show. In addition to using his line conditioner, he recommends buying reels with oversized spools and filling them 1/2 to 3/4 full.

[georgeyew]

I know that many of you have stated that the spool is over filled. Can you explain why that would cause loops in the line?

[BigMoneyGrip]

I bad a Saros F and a St Croix Premier. I had troubles from day 1 and tried everything I could, nothing worked. I gave it away and bought another casting reel. That solved the problem!

[Trackick9707]

Over filling a spinning reel will cause loops because of line inertia.  You cast, lure hits the water, momentum carries a few extra loops off of the spool,  loops and wind knots galore.  One thing that helped me is after closing the spool by hand,  pull on the line a little bit and look for any loops that formed BEFORE beginning to reel.  You'll be surprised how often you can get 1 small loop that you don't notice and on your next cast you'll feel the loop go through your guides, and then you're back to square one.  It's almost like a backlash on a baitcaster, but not as dramatic.  I hope that helps...

[JimmyKing]

A couple things

1.)  I agree with the over filling.

2.)  A couple things you can do

     a.)  If you fish off of a boat, remove the lure from your line.  Open your bail and let all the line out as you slowly motor or troll.  (hopefully in a low traffic area)

           I usually let all the line out until there are a half a dozen wraps or so on the spool.  After all the line is out, start reeling as normal.  The tension on the line in the water will allow you to reel as normal.  This should remove any coils, twist or loops.

      b.) If you don't have a boat you can do the same thing on shore by tying a swivel on the end of the line.  Attaching the swivel to something solid.  Walk the line out and then reel it in as you walk back in keeping tension the whole time.  This will allow any twist to be removed by the swivel 

 

The first of these methods works the best in my opinion.  I find I get alot of twist if I am using floro on spinning gear for drop shotting or if I am jigging vertically with a grub,  if I don't have a swivel tied in some where.

 

Good luck!

 

This method works for me.

[shootermcbob]

I read where Gary Klein recommends stopping your cast (with a spinning reel) with your hand just BEFORE the lure hits the water....then closing the bail by hand and ensuring the line is on the line roller.

Stopping the lure just before it hits the water (at the reel with your hand) helps eliminate the problems discussed earlier regarding the inertia of the line coming off the spool.

 

I do it, and have not noticed any twist. At least not nearly as much as before. Certainly worth a try.

[Marty]

I used 10# line on a Daiwa 2500 size reel without an abnormal number of loops. Trilene XL is a spinning-friendly line and I know of no reason for too many loops other than the overfilling. Another thing is to lift your rod tip just before starting your retrieve. That will straighten the line and minimize the chances of starting with a loop on the first couple of handle cranks.