Gamec0cks5 Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 I have been contemplating buying Tungsten weights and after reading on here I think I will get some 1/4oz weights for C-Rigging, what brand do y'all recommend? I want to get them at BPS so whatever they carry would be what I'm looking at. Is 1/4oz good enough for Carolina Rigging? Our lake is 10ft at the deepest Quote
Super User burleytog Posted April 6, 2010 Super User Posted April 6, 2010 TruTungsten I wouldn't go any lighter than 1/2 oz. for a carolina rig. Quote
Gamec0cks5 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Posted April 6, 2010 even in a shallow lake like that? avg. of 8' deep and deep holes around 10' Quote
Super User burleytog Posted April 6, 2010 Super User Posted April 6, 2010 1/4 oz. is too light to maintain good bottom contact. Quote
Gamec0cks5 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Posted April 6, 2010 ok cool. Does color make a difference? Quote
kikstand454 Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 yeah.... i mean.. you can use a 1/4 oz. but you better be shallower than 10 /12 feet. i wouldnt go less than 1/2 and i normally (always) throw a 3/4. Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted April 6, 2010 Super User Posted April 6, 2010 green pumpkin tru tungsten weights are my favorite. Quote
bigfruits Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 I think I will get some 1/4oz weights for C-Rigging i agree with the others, heavier will be better. unless money is not an issue, id suggest buying lead egg sinkers for C-rigs where size is not an issue. i'd get tungsten worm or flipping weights instead. Quote
looking4structure Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 TruTungstenI wouldn't go any lighter than 1/2 oz. for a carolina rig. x2.The smallest I will use is 1/2 oz for carolina. Quote
Gamec0cks5 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Posted April 8, 2010 Well I picked up some Denny Brauer Flippin Weights in 1/2oz b/c that was the only 1/2oz weights they had . Our BPS here has a very poor selection, and when something comes in it goes right back out. I got them in black. I was suprised in the price these things are really expensive :'( Quote
MattyG Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 I use tungsten wieghts only for the delta! 8-) Quote
Gamec0cks5 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Posted April 8, 2010 yeah I think I will go with steel in most cases occasionally using tungsten. Tungsten is so freaking expensive. $2 a piece ! I have been using steel with glass beads and like that set up for the most part. Quote
aarogb Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 I always use the black colored Tru Tungsten DB Flippin' Weights in 1 oz. for C-rigging. Quote
Super User Catt Posted April 8, 2010 Super User Posted April 8, 2010 I guess the amount of weight depends on the body of water because here on Toledo Bend 3/8 oz is deadlier than another even out to 20-25'. Quote
Skeet22 Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 I use 1\4 ounce tung for C-rigging in 2-3' spawning flats. In this situation I would not see the need to go heavier. I have no problem keeping botom contact with the lighter weight. I say go as light as you can get away with to help with a quicker hookset. Quote
Super User .ghoti. Posted April 8, 2010 Super User Posted April 8, 2010 yeah I think I will go with steel in most cases occasionally using tungsten. Tungsten is so freaking expensive. $2 a piece ! I have been using steel with glass beads and like that set up for the most part. I'm with you on that GameCock. I use Ultra Steel weights for just about everything. They used to sell a small steel bead, which I prefer to glass. They have been impossible to find lately. Anybody know where to get some? Quote
adclem Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 I have been using Tru-Tungsten but decided to try some of the BPS brand since they are on sale right now. Later, Quote
Super User Crestliner2008 Posted April 8, 2010 Super User Posted April 8, 2010 yeah I think I will go with steel in most cases occasionally using tungsten. Tungsten is so freaking expensive. $2 a piece ! I have been using steel with glass beads and like that set up for the most part. I'm with you on that GameCock. I use Ultra Steel weights for just about everything. They used to sell a small steel bead, which I prefer to glass. They have been impossible to find lately. Anybody know where to get some? I agree. Ultra Steel is less than 1/2 the cost. I refuse to spend that kind of money on weight. Try Netcraft for solid steel beads. I use to buy them there to make in-line bucktail spinners for big pike. Quote
Super User RoLo Posted April 12, 2010 Super User Posted April 12, 2010 For "Carolina rigging", I see no advantage to using tungsten over steel. A 1/2oz tungsten sinker is the same weight as 1/2oz steel sinker, but far more expensive. It's expensive because there are important industrial uses for tungsten carbide (2nd to diamond). Unlike a worm-weight which is actually part of the lure, the sinker for a C-rig is distantly separated by the leader. Although tungsten may transmit the bottom a tad better, most of the 'strike sensation' is lost to the leader. Anglers commonly use 1/2 to 1½ oz sinkers for Carolina rigging, but search me as to why. I'm perfectly satisfied with a 1/4 oz steel sinker for most situations (3/8 oz tops). The C-rig is all about levity and soft presentation which is accomplished by separating the fast movements of the sinker from the soft movements of the lure. If constant bottom contact were the goal, a C-rig would not be the right choice. Even if a 2-pound sinker were used, constant bottom-contact by the lure would neither be possible nor desirable. Roger Quote
kikstand454 Posted April 13, 2010 Posted April 13, 2010 what? im not tryin to get constant bottom contact with the lure, im trying to keep constant contact with the sinker so as to better feel the bottom/ stay with the contour. if i throw onto a midlake hump thats 12 ft deep and i know it rolls off to 22ft, i want to know when i get to that edge so i can let out some slack and work it down the slope back to the boat. when i come to a peice of wood, i want to know so i can shake the glass and make the lure dance. you use a heavier weight for a c-rig for all of these things and one more important one... you can fish it much faster. a 3/8 oz weight will move a foot or more with every move that you make with your rod tip. esp with 20ft of line pulling it. you spend half the cast waiting for it to hit the bottom, which it did in an arch because it wasnt heavy enough to go straight down against the resistance of your line... then every time you move it, youre waiting to feel the bottom again. 3/4+ hits the bottom quick... mostly right where you threw it... and it stays there. like it should. Quote
Super User RoLo Posted April 13, 2010 Super User Posted April 13, 2010 what?im not tryin to get constant bottom contact with the lure, im trying to keep constant contact with the sinker so as to better feel the bottom/ stay with the contour. if i throw onto a midlake hump thats 12 ft deep and i know it rolls off to 22ft, i want to know when i get to that edge so i can let out some slack and work it down the slope back to the boat. when i come to a peice of wood, i want to know so i can shake the glass and make the lure dance. you use a heavier weight for a c-rig for all of these things and one more important one... you can fish it much faster. a 3/8 oz weight will move a foot or more with every move that you make with your rod tip. esp with 20ft of line pulling it. you spend half the cast waiting for it to hit the bottom, which it did in an arch because it wasnt heavy enough to go straight down against the resistance of your line... then every time you move it, youre waiting to feel the bottom again. 3/4+ hits the bottom quick... mostly right where you threw it... and it stays there. like it should. I definitely understand what you mean, and while that may be important in a hill-land impoundment, here in Florida, "deep" is 4 to 6 feet. Nonetheless, even when I fished reservoirs in Jersey and Georgia, I often used 1/4 oz C-rigs with good results. I really don't mind if the sinker momentarily parts company with the bottom contour, because the trade-off is a more buoyant and natural delivery (reminiscent of dropshotting). I know I'm not going to feel every pebble on the bottom, but bites are easier to feel with a lighter sinker, and hook-sets are surer. Roger Quote
Super User Catt Posted April 13, 2010 Super User Posted April 13, 2010 kikstand454 If you fish up hill instead of down hill your lure will maintain contact the entire length of the cast. Quote
kikstand454 Posted April 13, 2010 Posted April 13, 2010 rodger... im also in florida. lol. but yeah.. i mean i understand fishing a c-rig in 8ft or less water with a 1/2oz or 3/8oz lead. you dont have the same forces at work trying to move you off the bottom. also you dont need to worry about the longer drop. i guess i just have the point of veiw that im typically throwing a c-rig in deeper water and thats why i rig that way. i guess in a way were both right. catt- yeah i know but i was trying to illustrate a situation where a heavier weight was more important. i fish bars all directions! 8-) Quote
Super User RoLo Posted April 13, 2010 Super User Posted April 13, 2010 i guess in a way were both right. I totally agree Kikstand, and that's what fuels every forum. To my mind, the lure on a C-rig rarely touches bottom anyway, except momentarily, so it isn't that bad if the sinker departs momentarily from the bottom. The weight required to keep the sinker in constant contact with the bottom comes at a high price. The heavier the sinker weight, the more pressure is needed to straighten out the dihedral in the line (V-shape). In this respect, a C-rig is the opposite of a Dropshot rig. With a dropshot rig the hook is tied direct to the mainline, so it "directly" receives the strike and "directly" receives the hook-set. With a C-rig, both the strike and the hook-set are "diluted" by the weight of the sinker, and there's no positive strike sensation or hook-set force until the dihedral in the line has been straightened out. Roger Quote
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