Which Crankbaits First?

[b.wedlund]

I have been fishing bass for 4 years.  Before that, I fished mostly mostly trolling walleye rigs and had no clue what I was missing.  Every year, I pick one technique and try to master it.  I am at the point that I am comfortable with plastics, jigs, spinners, and topwater frogs, etc.  This year I have decided to try to focus on learning to throw crankbaits.  I have read a ton of info on here, watched videos on youtube, etc.  My question for you guys is, what crankbaits would you start with?  Does it matter what I throw first?  Will some of them be easier for me to pick up than others? 

[tnbassfisher]

From my experience, most crankbaits work about the same in the large scale of things, other than different depths. I would look at what depths you are fishing and get one or two different crankbaits for that depth.

[BassThumb]

I almost always try lipless cranks before diving cranks.  I prefer their ability to cover water as a search lure.

[hmongkidBee]

Here's what I do first.  I always throw the crankbait that will dive to about the water depth that your lake is. Suppose your lake is 10 feet deep then throw a crankbait that will dive up to 10 feet or more.  Then if I don't get any bites, I throw a shallower one and work up from there.  It's always produced bass for me.  Also don't forget the difference between square billed crankbaits and regular crankbaits.  Makes a lot of difference especially in cover.

[flippin and pitchin]

A few things to consider before you buy are: Seasonal patterns, pre-spawn, spawn and post spawn.  This will have the greatest influence as to the depths you might fish. Depth, based on seasonal patterns, availability of deep water and weather conditions.  Visibility, the clarity or stain of the water you will fish.  Species, most baits will overlap but some baits are more effective for smallmouth or largemouth.  Cover and Structure, what will the bait be coming in contact with. Forage base.  Put these factors into a list and then apply what you have learned about what baits are more effective in cooler water, i.e. lipless baits and tight wobble baits.   Bolder colors for stained water and more natural colors for clear water etc.  Applying what you have already learned will help you select brand, model, color, depth, bill style and noise making features.  Finally select brands you you have confidence in, can afford and are willing to throw (and loose ).  Learn how they feel because crankbaits telegraph alot of information about the bottom, the cover type and any changes may equal a bite, however subtle.  We each have our pet brands and colors and I won't open that door.  Crankbaits are fun to fish, cover water, tell you about the bottom contours and so on and catch all sizes of fish.  Experiment with retrieve speeds.  You have already made the first step, you are determined to learn.  Have a blast and let us know how things go.

[roadwarrior]

In cool water a tight wobble is generally recommended.

Here in Tennessee the fishing is on fire and the

lures that dominate are lipless cranks, jerkbaits

and buzzbaits right now! In a few weeks,

as the topwater bite improves, shallow cranks

come into play: Norman Fat Boy, Bomber Square A

and LC (Clunn) 2.5 & 3.5. Wiggle Warts and Bandit

200s are always in play.

Considerations for other depths as we move into

summer include Rapala Shad Raps and DTs, Fat

Free Shad and DD22.

I don't believe anyone who focuses on crankbaits

believes they are "all the same".

8-)

[Chris]

Learn shallow water and shallow cranks first. (5' or less)Then move to fishing deeper points, drops, humps and such. It would be easy only because you are throwing to visible objects. It is easier to visualize stuff you move most people out deep and tell them to fish something they can't see it kinda throws a lot of people for a loop.

[guitarkid]

Check out the Daiwa peanuts, they are pretty cheap and a pretty good little crank. The only thing is the hooks are not that good so you might want to change them out. I would recommend both models, the 3 foot diver and the 5 foot diver.

    -gk

[iceintheveins]

I like cranks with more subtle wiggles that run shallower first, especially on calm sunny days. Shad raps, risto raps, bomber flat As, and Poe's Cedar series are some great options.

[Big Bait Fishing]

for me , where the baitfish are will dictate where and what depth to throw crankbaits , if the water is stained and i'm not seeing any baitfish , i will start out deep and work my way shallower .