Rod Or Reel?

[Toeshots]

Depends what you are doing with it. I just stocked up this winter and for bottom contact techniques, I bought $200 rods which will be paired with reels of the same value. Crankbait rod was around $100 but reel will be more.

[jerzeeD]

Usually I spend more on the rod.... But I have some combos that are close to 50/50. I have a St Croix LTB with a Pflueger Patriarch and a Fenwick HMG with a Pflueger supreme...Both of those are close to 50/50, with the rods still both being slightly more. Then I have a St croix premier with a Pflueger Medalist and a St Croix Avid with a Pflueger Purist. Both of those set-ups are a little more lopsided toward the rods. With baitcasting setups, you are going to spend more $ on quality reels than you have to with spinning gear. That is probably why my rods are more than my reels, too.

[.ghoti.]

I recently updated my rod/reel spreadsheet for the insurance company. On average, my casting combos tilt toward the reel; with reels about 50 percent more than the rods. My spinning combos tilt the other way; with the rods being about two and half times what the reels cost. Those are average values. Individual combos are all across the spread.

Worst case one way: my jig rig, a Daiwa Light & Tough rod at $140, paired with a JDM Zillion, about three times that.

Worst case the other way: Steez spinning rod, msrp around $500, paired with a $150 Pflueger Supreme XT.

Right in the middle; a GLX with an R Edition Alphas, about even money for each.

I don't pair up my combos based on price, but on weight and power. Trying to color coordinate isn't even given a thought.

[lmbfisherman]

I've always leaned towards the reel.  Not that I have yet to buy a very high end reel yet, I usually buy Shimano (Curado/Citica), I did however pick up a very good deal on used St Croix Avids (2 Baitcaster and 1 Spinning).  After using these, it has started to change my mind and am thinking of putting more money into rods and possibly making it at least 50/50.

[roadwarrior]

I don't pair up my combos based on price, but on weight and power. Trying to color coordinate isn't even given a thought.

 

WHAT?  

 

Gotta have the bling-bling!

 

 

 

[.ghoti.]

WHAT?  

 

Gotta have the bling-bling!

 

 

 

Being color-blind does have it's advantages. LOL!

[Big Bassman]

I spend a little more on the reels because they WILL last me for a very long time if not forever, while I do break a rod once and awhile and don't believe anyone will give me a replacement rod at a total n/c if I have used it for awhile? This is a personal choice question.

 

What a great post/topic. Everyones opinions are not only fasinating but right on. This site is loaded with quality fishermen that know their sport and how to share this knowledge with other members. This place is a gold mine, all the way down to "bling-bling"!

[zwhiten12]

Thanks for all of the help yall!

[Felix77]

It's like a good marriage ... They must work together.  It doesn't matter if you spend more or less on either part as long as they work together.  

 

I have reels that are more expensive than the rod and visa versa.  The challenge is matching them up to suit your needs.

[Jake Coucoules]

I think if its a jig/worm rod were you really need that extra sensitivity go with the extra money on the rod. If its a moving bait get a better reel so you can cover water easier.

[lmbfisherman]

Being color-blind does have it's advantages. LOL!

You too?  I have a minor issue, reddish tinge colors usually give me the worst problems.  Not total color blind, but enough  to get noticed when I say, nice pink shirt?  and they go huh!

[papajoe222]

Given a specific budget...

I want to buy a nicer rod, but I just can't get the thought of somehow breaking the rod and being out that much money where as if I bought a cheaper rod it wouldn't be as big of a deal.

You'll find that if you spend the extra cash for a 'nicer' rod, you'll be more carefull with it.  That is, of course, if it's your money that you're using.  The same goes for a reel.  The more you spend, the more care you'll take of it when not in use.

[thehooligan]

Im pretty 50/50 on my combos, and thats what i prefer. I was going to spring for a stella this year but went for the sustain. I really dont need a $500+ reel that ill always worry about getting scratched in the boat or kayak, or stolen. Im already paranoid about my sustain getting dropped or scratched, haha. Also it wouldnt match my cumulus anyway. 

 

My cumulus/sustain combo is almost 50/50, a little more went to the rod.

My cumara/ci4 combo is 50/50

My phenix m1/ci4 combo is just about 50/50

My fenwick smallmouth/stradic fj combo went a little more to the reel.

 

Now i have a curado 51e, probally will go with another fenwick smallmouth rod or compre.

 

Im actually trying to build some low budget combos cause i fish with a buddy who has a really small boat, things get stepped on, pushed to the side, etc. Im always holding my rods for dear life, lol.

[J Francho]

You can get a great rod for around $100-120 retail.  "Great" reels don't really come into the picture until about the $200 mark.  So, if you are on the low end, you'll probably spend more on the reel.  On the high end, the rod.

[Trailer]

I feel like it depends on the style or presentation you are fishing. Whichever piece, either the rod or reel, in a given scenario that is more important should have the most money spent on it. If you see both components equally important then treat them equally. Usually if you're talking about "feeling" something I would think the rod is important. If you're talking about "seeing" something, such as topwater, I would think the rod is less important. A nice reel might keep you from cussing all day...

[J Francho]

Why a rod is "less important" just because you don't need to feel the bite is beyond me.  I hear that ALL THE TIME, and do not agree one bit.  Remember, you use the rod to get the fish to the boat.  It's important.  Choose wisely.

[Trailer]

Why a rod is "less important" just because you don't need to feel the bite is beyond me.  I hear that ALL THE TIME, and do not agree one bit.  Remember, you use the rod to get the fish to the boat.  It's important.  Choose wisely.

Ok, so what's the perfect combination?

[roadwarrior]

Ok, so what's the perfect combination?

 

G.Loomis IMX MBR844C/ Curado 200E7

 

Mid-range pricing, on sale, gently used or found in our Flea Market:

You may find them a little cheaper, but I paid around $125 apiece.

[J Francho]

Ok, so what's the perfect combination?

 

Depends on your style.  If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra

fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank. 

Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the

rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but

enough power to pull a fish from weed cover.  Definitely don't want a

jig and worm type rod.  A short rear handle is nice too.  I use an Avid

6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF.  That's been the perfect rod for me.  It's also

my jerkbait rod.  It's very sensitive, and although traditionally

considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.

 

That's just one example of a moving bait rod.  I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP.  I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc.  You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.

 

I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out

of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits. 

I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway

decent rod for this.

[Trailer]

Depends on your style.  If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra

fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank. 

Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the

rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but

enough power to pull a fish from weed cover.  Definitely don't want a

jig and worm type rod.  A short rear handle is nice too.  I use an Avid

6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF.  That's been the perfect rod for me.  It's also

my jerkbait rod.  It's very sensitive, and although traditionally

considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.

 

That's just one example of a moving bait rod.  I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP.  I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc.  You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.

 

I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out

of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits. 

I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway

decent rod for this.

Dang it! I just knew you were going to say a Zebco 33 Classic and an Ugly Stick with the glow tip. Shows what I know...

[zwhiten12]

G.Loomis IMX MBR844C/ Curado 200E7

Mid-range pricing, on sale, gently used or found in our Flea Market:

You may find them a little cheaper, but I paid around $125 apiece.

I've been looking at the revo s and the veritas.

[Mike L]

Depends on your style.  If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra

fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank. 

Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the

rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but

enough power to pull a fish from weed cover.  Definitely don't want a

jig and worm type rod.  A short rear handle is nice too.  I use an Avid

6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF.  That's been the perfect rod for me.  It's also

my jerkbait rod.  It's very sensitive, and although traditionally

considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.

 

That's just one example of a moving bait rod.  I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP.  I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc.  You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.

 

I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out

of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits. 

I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway

decent rod for this.

J, question if I may...I don't own any XF action rod's, so bear with me....Useing an XF action rod "to protect the trebles from pulling out"

seems like a contradiction to me, unless I'm reading your intent wrong.

If you would please explain.

 

Thanks

Mike

[J Francho]

J, question if I may...I don't own any XF action rod's, so bear with me....Useing an XF action rod "to protect the trebles from pulling out"

seems like a contradiction to me, unless I'm reading your intent wrong.

If you would please explain.

 

Thanks

Mike

 

I guess I glossed over that, and it does sound contradictory worded that way.  What I mean, it's more about the type of power, further down from the tip.  A medium power rod, where the load of a fish on is spread out across the entire blank will protect the trebles better than a MH.  The XF tip just makes it easier to control the twitch.  The rod "settles down" quicker on a faster taper.

[J Francho]

Dang it! I just knew you were going to say a Zebco 33 Classic and an Ugly Stick with the glow tip. Shows what I know...

 

Don't knock the 33, man!

 

[Mike L]

I guess I glossed over that, and it does sound contradictory worded that way.  What I mean, it's more about the type of power, further down from the tip.  A medium power rod, where the load of a fish on is spread out across the entire blank will protect the trebles better than a MH.  The XF tip just makes it easier to control the twitch.  The rod "settles down" quicker on a faster taper.

 

Thanks J

 

Mike