Canoe Loading/unloading/paddling Solo

[upnorthbassin]

I picked up an Old Town Saranc 146XT canoe recently. My main concern is being able to load/unload/paddle this canoe by myself. It weights 80lbs which isn't ridiculously heavy and I can pick it up myself but it's pretty unweildy. It always wants to tip or flip over and there's no real good place to grab it since it has those big molded seats and bench seat in the middle. As far as paddling I was thinking I could either sit in the middle seat and paddle with a long kayak paddle or put some weight up front and paddle at the stern. You can't paddle it backwards since it has built in seatbacks.

 

I also need either a roof rack or foam blocks to be able to transport it. I need a way of loading and unloading it solo and safely getting it from one place to another. The roof rack seems like the best idea but costs a lot. It seems like it would be easier to load it by myself with a roof rack than the blocks though.They sell those Sportrack racks made by Thule for about $200 which is cheap for a rack but I don't want to spend that or any more than that if I don't have to.

 

I'm already regretting this purchase a little. I bought it on a whim because it was brand new and over 75% off. It was obviously a steal but I think I would have been better off getting a smaller, lighter canoe or maybe something entirely different. I thought foam blocks would work but it seems hard to load with those with just one person since you can't really slide it around and you have to load it from the side which is kind of awkward. I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it because I might not end up using it a lot. Any ideas?

[A-Jay]

I fish from an Old Town Predator square back (15 ft) myself and most of it is solo.

Not knowing how committed to hoisting it on/off your vehicle you are or what your storage situation is,  I highly recommend you consider a small trailer.

 At around 115lbs boosting this thing over my head alone is not happening.  But with the trailer,  Loading & unloading could not be any easier - especially alone. 

 

Mine is going on 5 years of service and has been one of the best purchases I've made.

They cost quite a bit more than a "Roof rack system" (@ 1K)  but in the long run (like many things) it's well worth it. I know it sounds like a lot but look at it this way -

 I've had this one for 5 years - my open water season is 7 months or so.  I fish on average 18 days a month (I'm semi- retired). So that's 126 trips a year - for the 5 years, it cost me approx $1.50 a trip.  Think about that every time you're hoisting it over your head to get it on & off your ride - or invest 6 quarters a day now and have the luxury of not having to deal with it. 

You can tow this with just about anything so you should be good there.  You will assemble it yourself - so you'll know how it works and how to repair it if needed.  I took my time and did it on the floor of the garage over a weekend. Here the link -

http://www.castlecraft.com/canoe_trailer.htm

 

A-Jay

 

[mudkart]

Something like this is probably best, but may be more $ than you want to spend.  They are aluminum, and can be used as a cart to wheel your craft to the water.

 

http://www.rampconnection.com/17-Canoe-Kayak-Trailer-SUT-200-S.html

[Neonsnow78]

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/111936-canoe-trailer-build/

 

i built my own out of a harbor freight trailer. you dont have to make a storage area, so 2 8ft 2x4 with some outdoor rug on top would be enough, so for under 250bux you can have it registered and using it with heavy lifting

[Felix77]

I have a small KIA and transport my canoe with a Sportsrack carrier which cost me less than a $100.

 

http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11492935&kw=roof+rack&lmdn=Brand

 

It's extremely durable and has lasted me a full year thus far with no sign of wear.  I even took this on a 4 hour trip to PA from where I live with zero issues.

 

As for lugging it on and off the car.  Well ... if you care about your car's finish definitely use towels or something to place it on your car.  Lean it so it sits along side your car.  Lift from the opposite end and slide into position on your roof.  Reverse the process and you can get it down easy.

 

Lastly ... about the Kayak paddle.  That's what I use.  I keep the other traditional paddle bungeed on the inside just in case I lose my kayak paddle for some reason.  Works well

 

Good luck.

[Neonsnow78]

it does sound like you got a steal so the money you spend on a hauling solution you probably would have spent anyways on a smaller canoe(trailer,foam blocks whatever). So no need to second guess. i would think a little bit of weight up front will keep the front down enough to be easily manageable.

[upnorthbassin]

Unfortunately trailers are pretty much not an option at this point due to storage. It's unfortunate because I could easily get a nice trailer for a couple hundred dollars used from more than one person at the moment (one even had new bearings and tires on it which alone are worth almost that). I'm thinking about going with the sportrack and then adding a homemade loading bar. That way I can prop one end of the canoe up on the loading bar and then swing the other end around onto the rack.

 

I was also thinking of getting a couple of 5 gallon collapsable water containers and filling them up to use for weight in the front. Another option is changing out the seat on it to something I could sit backwards on.

[Neonsnow78]

could fill some gallon containers with sand, and when needing to be stationary use one as an anchor.or a small cooler and fill it up with beverages so you have drinks and weight.

[Goose52]

You didn't say what vehicle you have and whether it already has any roof rack or rails. 

 

With that weight, I think you're probably going to have to not only get a proper roof rack, but also one of the gizmos that they make to side-load the canoe up on the rack.  Another option is a trailer-hitch mounted device that lets you put one end of the canoe up on the device, and then lift the other end of the canoe up in the air and walk it around 180 degrees to get it on the roof of the car.  There's a number of brands of these gadgets and they are not that expensive - here's one from Cabelas: http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/search_catalog_command.cmd?fromProductSearch=true&item1=IK-017442

 

On the foam blocks, that's what I use...but my canoe only weighs 34 pounds and I'm putting it on the roof of a sedan. They probably would NOT work (for my canoe) if I was putting it on the roof of a station wagon or SUV since the blocks don't give enough elevation for the bow and stern to clear the roof (see photo).  Don't know if they will work for you.

 

On paddling, best would be to sit in the "front" seat facing backwards. I know you can't do that due to the moulded seatbacks. As you mentioned, take a look to see if you can come up with another seat for that position.  Plan B is to sit in the aft seat and put weight up front. Consider getting a couple 5-gal. plastic paint buckets. You can store/carry your canoe gear in them - then when rigging the canoe - fill them with water and put them as far forward as you can. When you're done - dump the water and put your gear back in them.

 

Good luck!

 

[Darren.]

When I used our 16' Grumman aluminum canoe, I car topped myself using the gunwale foam blocks. Was a major pain, and the older I got, the harder and heavier the canoe felt. I built my own roof rack and that helped.

Now I have a 55+/- lb yak and life is MUCH better.

But do a web search and perhaps you'll find stuff for kayaks that you can rejigger for your canoe.

[A-Jay]

Unfortunately trailers are pretty much not an option at this point due to storage. It's unfortunate because I could easily get a nice trailer for a couple hundred dollars used from more than one person at the moment (one even had new bearings and tires on it which alone are worth almost that). I'm thinking about going with the sportrack and then adding a homemade loading bar. That way I can prop one end of the canoe up on the loading bar and then swing the other end around onto the rack.

 

I was also thinking of getting a couple of 5 gallon collapsable water containers and filling them up to use for weight in the front. Another option is changing out the seat on it to something I could sit backward on.

 

After providing us more info - It seems like you are hammering a square peg into a round hole and trying to use what works for other anglers.

 

My advice is cut your losses now, sell the craft you current own and start again.

 

For your fishing, as you have described it here, you need a whole system.

One that all works together, the way you want / need it to.

 

Do the research, check out what's out there.  Then match the type of boat you purchase to suit your needs.

The water and type of fishing you do, how you transport the craft, if you fish alone or with a fellow angler; these factors all come into play and if they are addressed in advance of your purchase, the entire evolution will actually be fun.

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

[The one that got away]

I'm with A-Jay on this one.  Fishing may start to become more of a hassle for you, and will take away from what it's supposed to be - fun. 

 

My story - I have an Old Town canoe that I transport on the back of my wife's minivan.  My canoe has a yoke in the middle, so picking up the canoe is not too much of an issue.  I get the canoe to the minivan, angle the front of the canoe so it rests against the top of the minivan at the back, crouch down and get out from under the canoe, at this point the canoe is basically half on the vehicle and the back end is on the ground.  I walk to the back of the canoe, pick it up, and basically slide it up into position on the roof rack of the minivan.  The minivan is now about 6 years old.  I used to lay a moving quilt on the back of the vehicle where I would initially rest the canoe before moving it into position on top, but the vehicle itself now has so many dings, scratches, etc from kids and the dog that I don't even bother with it anymore. 

 

Anyway, my point is I think you're going to get pretty tired of trying to get your canoe - without a middle yoke - on top of your vehicle every time you want to go fishing.  You will eventually either end up getting a trailer, using some of the other methods in this thread (I like the idea about that pole or whatever it is that goes in a rear trailer hitch), or you'll probably just end up selling it. 

 

However, it would much different if you have a fishing partner that can help you load/unload the canoe off the top of your car.  Should be a piece of cake with a second set of hands. 

 

Best of luck with whatever you decide, and I hope you get on the water in some way, shape, or form.  It's a whole different ballgame when you are no longer restricted to the shore. 

[The one that got away]

And as far as what seat to sit in, my canoe has the molded seatbacks, front and back, so I am also restricted. 

 

After being out on the water one day with 20+MPH wind gusts, I quickly learned that some weight has to go in the front of the canoe or you'll get blown around like a top. 

 

If I'm going alone, I put three 25lb weight plates in the front end.  It takes up almost no space, and balances the canoe out pretty well. 

[Neonsnow78]

never know if you got a good deal on it at the store you can probably make money selling it via Craigslist.

[Marty]

My canoe is an ultralight. I made the $200 investment in a roof rack to make the loading and unloading as quick and easy as possible.

 

I only use the canoe solo, although it is a tandem. So I turn it around and paddle from the bow seat, which gets me closer to the center, but it's not nearly enough to keep the boat level. I carry a conventional 5-gallon pail and lid and 20-30 pounds of water in it and putting it up front is enough to keep it level enough for my purposes.

 

I agree with the others that IF you now have doubts about your purchase, cut your losses and get something you feel totally comfortable with.

[kjfishman]

Option 1   This may not work in your situation but If you have a pickup truck you can get a bed extender at Harbor Freight that hooks into you 2" trail hitch. I also added the magnetic tail lights (secured with zip ties) to the unit. I haul my Loon 138, almost 14 foot in a short bed quad cab truck. Comes in handy hauling wood and drywall also.

 

Option 2   I had a Diesel Jeep Liberty before the  truck and it was getting hard to get the big yak on the roof racks. If I didn't switch to a truck  I would have bought a folding 8 foot trailer or the cheaper  4x4 trailer  and extended the tongue. A trailer would have come in handy for other things so might be a good investment.

[rb56]

i have a pickup and found this and it is a heckava rack for the money and easy to install for those with trucks. it's easy to slide my pelican 15.5 on and off. i have considered the trailer at harbor freight as mentioned also, but don't want to deal with the tags and registration and all yet. i'm in the process of adding onto my canoe, i already had the dash board made and works ok. i have rebuilt my transom and went from a 2x4 to using steel slotted angle iron with a block of 2x4 on the mount side. made line reels for anchor lines using pvc to make like a wagon wheel and just reel in the rope with. now i have almost completed building my pontoons from pvc. i originally planned to mount them off the dash but just noticed the middle seat rod holders, one on each side are a just right fit for the mounting on each side. i did a test run on them but they weren't secured as i knew adjustments would come. i found to hold the pvc arms down on the side of the boat made it very stable. where the arms go out a strap will go over them and tighten to serve that purpose. also they slide in when moving if i want or need to keep from hitting them. i'll post pics soon, also mounted a stern light to run off the depth finder battery with a cig lighter plug in that plugs in the 4 terminal unit under the dash, which also is graduated across the top to 36 in. for a ruler, drink holder, rod holder, spotlight holder, 6' magnetic strip handy for clippers etc, a plate for magnetic antenna and copper ground that goes into the water, a section of strap on the edge for the hand held cb belt clip, shotgun/rifle rack for 1, bolt for my depth finder which i remove since i haul on the rack upside down. also am adding to it a sliding glove box underneath or a camo fanny pack for items.

 

http://www.amazon.com/PICK-UP-RACK-650-Pound-Adjustable-Universal-Utility-Ladder/dp/B009VOQ05U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360303511&sr=8-1&keywords=pick+up+racks

[upnorthbassin]

Thanks for the advise guys. I figured that I'll just buy the roof rack and try it. I'll probably make one of those loading bars since they look like they help. If it doesn't work, I'll still be able to use the roof rack for other things. If worst comes to worst, I'll just use this canoe when I have someone with me and then get something else to use solo.