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Posted
That was a big selling point with me on the Crucial.

I really love the way my shimano rods feel and think the up locking seat could be something all rods might adopt one day. Well I think they should any ways. I was slightly skeptical initially but they have proven them self to work flawlessly for me.

  • Super User
Posted
Sealed level wind.  Shallow spool option on "workhorse" reels like Curado and Zillion.  Ability to reengage the spool by flicking the thumbar up, like just about every Daiwa.

 

I say this idea from JF is the best yet.

 

Also makes me wonder why this isn't a standard feature of most higher end reels . . . .

 

A-Jay

  • Super User
Posted

I really love the way my shimano rods feel and think the up locking seat could be something all rods might adopt one day. Well I think they should any ways. I was slightly skeptical initially but they have proven them self to work flawlessly for me.

Same here. I read about it and was not 100% sure. After reading any negative stuff about them (which was very light) nothing mentioned the reel seat. Plus with the walk in warranty Shimano has, I was sold. There is a BP less than a mile from my job m

  • Super User
Posted

I say this idea from JF is the best yet.

 

Also makes me wonder why this isn't a standard feature of most higher end reels . . . .

 

A-Jay

 

They do it for spinning reels, why not baitcasters?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

shallow spool options

handle length options ( I like shorter 70-80mm handles )

clicking drag and spool tension adjustments

smooth knobs

I would really like to see a "standard" foot length for all reels. This would allow rods to me made with no exposed threads on the reel seat.

For rods; one request. Publish Common Cents data for all rods. This would help eliminate a lot of confusion regarding power ratings across the board.

Another request. Publish the rod's weights. Reel weights are listed; why not the same data for rods?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
I would like to see a rod that you don't have to worry about knocking off the guides, or the tip.  While we're at it lets just make one that is unbreakable.

They have those, its called The Ugly Stick, lol.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
I say this idea from JF is the best yet.

 

Also makes me wonder why this isn't a standard feature of most higher end reels . . . .

 

A-Jay

I don't think it would be possible to seal a level wind on a baitcaster due to the moving guide.

  • Super User
Posted

Does a spinning reel not oscillate?  High end Shimano use worm gear oscillation, and they're sealed.  It would be relatively simple to internalize and seal the level wind.

  • Super User
Posted

Spinning reels do it in the sense that it goes along internally with design being the length of the reel. That would be one wide baitcaster.

  • Super User
Posted

This isn't a forum for you to shoot down ideas that you can't get your head around. 

 

I didn't say anything about an oscillating spool. Try to use your imagination.  The point is, there is a moving part, driven by a worm gear.and it's sealed.  Internalize the mechanism, and seal it.  US Reels did it.  Why can't others come up with better designs that aren't dirt magnets?

  • Super User
Posted
This isn't a forum for you to shoot down ideas that you can't get your head around. 

 

I didn't say anything about an oscillating spool. Try to use your imagination.  The point is, there is a moving part, driven by a worm gear.and it's sealed.  Internalize the mechanism, and seal it.  US Reels did it.  Why can't others come up with better designs that aren't dirt magnets?

Wow, I'm not shooting down ideas. No need to be nasty. Your supposed to be a moderator, uncalled for. I'm trying to figure out how that would be done. US reels did it with a open level wind, and that's the only way I could think to do that. What way would they be able to do it with a closed loop like on a regular baitcaster setup. If someone would be able to do that they would be rich. I Google it, and I couldnt find anything like that on a baitcaster. If you have a link I would love to see how that works.

Posted

I would like to see Dobyn's use a split reel seat,maybe EVA grips. I prefer split EVA grips and split reel seat, but since the change to the cumaras and the discontinuation of the cumulus I have no options. When I look on TW there is really only two brands that have anything to offer me Loomis which gives me split grip and reel seat but I have to settle for cork and cost $500 + or dobyns which is a better price but have to settle on the reel seat and cork.

Posted

I'm curious, why would any freshwater fisherman need a drag approaching 10 lbs, let alone 20+?

 

 

:confused-8:

 

I posted this recently on anoter thread:

 

 

Set your drag properly at 25%-30% of the breaking strength of your line, but not more than 3-4 lbs.

There are several ways to measure the weight. I suggest putting 3 pounds of weight in a plastic

grocery bag and tying your line to the handles of the sack. GENTLY lift your rod tip until the drag

begins to release. Tighten the drag accordingly.

 

Now pull your line out with your hand. Over time you will get a pretty accurate feel for the setting.

Once set, I NEVER adjust anything when I have a fish on...NEVER. I fish #4 & #6 Yo-Zuri on my

spinning tackle. My two main spinning rods are 7' MF. The drag is always set at approximately

2 1/2 lbs. Both smallmouth in my avatar and the Big Bass on last year's RoadTrip were all caught

using #4 Hybrid.

 

On baitcasters I am fishing #12 Yo-Zuri Hybrid or 50 lb Sufix 832 for bass, 65 for striper. The drag

on my bass rods is 3 lbs regardless of which line I am using, 4 lbs on my striper rig. I'm not going

to use "never" because that came back to bite me a few years ago, so I "rarely" get broken off.

well said. you should pin this under a topic "Drag 101".

 

Sealed level wind.  Shallow spool option on "workhorse" reels like Curado and Zillion.  Ability to reengage the spool by flicking the thumbar up, like just about every Daiwa.

great idea. ur probably 10+yrs ahead of the curve.

  • Super User
Posted

I wasn't being nasty, LMG.  You took it the wrong way.  The question is what would you like to see on baitcasters.  I answered it with the most pesky component on a baitcaster.  You'd be surprised what has been tried over the years.  Daiwa had a levelwind guide that split open and spread out when you pressed the thumb bar so the line could flow freely off the spool. In my opinion, a total rethinking of the levelwind is in order.

 

On that note, why is the spool oriented on a horizontal plane?  I realize it's simpler to gear, but a vertical spool may cast better and be more ergonomic.

  • Super User
Posted
I wasn't being nasty, LMG.  You took it the wrong way.  The question is what would you like to see on baitcasters.  I answered it with the most pesky component on a baitcaster.  You'd be surprised what has been tried over the years.  Daiwa had a levelwind guide that split open and spread out when you pressed the thumb bar so the line could flow freely off the spool. In my opinion, a total rethinking of the levelwind is in order.

 

On that note, why is the spool oriented on a horizontal plane?  I realize it's simpler to gear, but a vertical spool may cast better and be more ergonomic.

You sure have a funny way with words then. Anyway, horizontal plane? Like a spincast design meets baitcaster? The Daiwa thing, your talking about the T Wing design? I haven't looked at one real close, is the worm design the same as any other reel except for the guide?

  • Super User
Posted

No, a spincast is still horizontal.  I'm talking vertical, so the spool would be thumbed from the side.  The Daiwa I'm referring to was something did over 20 years ago.  It didn't work well, nothing like the T-wing, as it actually split open. The T-wing is much more elegant in that the guide itself has no moving parts.

  • Super User
Posted

Vertical, wow, that would be interesting. Would take some getting used. Do you have a model for that Daiwa, now I'm interested to see that design.

  • Super User
Posted

I think our member, Raul has one.  I can't remember the model.

  • Super User
Posted

Reels:

Shallow spools for 200 B/D/E/G series reels.

More Lefty cranking reels below $200.

 

Rods:

More rods with no foregrip or exposed threads in front of the reel seat.  (Uplocking, a reel foot standard, whatever works) 

A cleaner way to balance rods (Carrot Stix did that right!)

  • Super User
Posted

Memory foam like grips on rods might be cool.  It would have to be pretty dense, though.

Posted

Similiar to ghoti's comment...I would like to see a unified method for characterizing rods.  I would like to see...

 

1.)  mass (in grams)

2.)  modulus.  a pseudu spring constant of the full rod assembly...if I apply "X" grams of mass to end end of the horizontal rod, the tip bends "Y" amount.

3.)  speed.  replace the generic XF/F/M parameters with something more universal and more meaningful .

 

The current method of categorizing rods is essentially useless.  I have a Dobyns 735SS and a 735C...both are 7'3", 5 power rods with a fast tip.  But in real life they fish quite differently.  And those are from the same manufacturer.  When you start trying to compare rods from other manufacturers, there is almost no commonality.  You have MH rods from manufacturer equivalent to H rods from another, etc....Some companies provide a modulus number (IM-8, IM-9, 20ton, etc..) but these ratings are not helpful either as they give the modulus of the graphite material, but don't account for scrim, epoxy, guides, mass, etc... It doesn't mean anything to me.  What I care about is the final assembly.  Give me a number...then I have full deliniation between different rods, not just arbitrary M/MH/H, 4 power, 5 power, ratings.

 

speed...everything I fish is either XF, F, or Mod.  Again, you have a situation where the ratings are somewhat arbitrary and vary from vendor to vendor.   I would like to see a number (for example, percentage of rod length from butt to the point where "X" amount of deflection occurs).  If people are confused by the new terminology, perhaps create a legend to help show where the "ideal" for many people lies...

 

crankbaits: 30-40

worm/jigs: 40-55

jerkbaits: 50-60

etc...

 

lower number is "slower" action..higher number is "faster"

  • Super User
Posted
This isn't a forum for you to shoot down ideas that you can't get your head around. 

 

I didn't say anything about an oscillating spool. Try to use your imagination.  The point is, there is a moving part, driven by a worm gear.and it's sealed.  Internalize the mechanism, and seal it.  US Reels did it.  Why can't others come up with better designs that aren't dirt magnets?

I don't see where he shot down any idea. I thought this was a discussion forum.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Super User
Posted
How about a reel seat where the reel sits into the blank?

That would be cool, but two things that worry me. First is if you latch unto a beast, and it flexes, what will that do to the blank. Also I'd hate to see what the cost of that would be for the first couple of years.

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