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Posted

I am currently in the process of restocking/organizing tackle this winter for this coming spring. I am in need of a few new spools of line. What is everyone using for different techniques? I still get confused when I start to look at different types and never can remember what line works for what applications.

 

Thanks

  • Super User
Posted

Tell us your intended techniques and you will receive more help. Also may want to note if there is a max price per spool of line.

Posted

Daiwa Samurai for frogging.

Trilene XL for topwater

Seaguar Tatsu on my Spinning gear for dropshotting, flickshakes, shakeyheads, light jigs etc.

Seaguar Tatsu on my Casting Gear for Jigs, t-rigs, wacky rigs, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, etc.

I am also mixing in Sunline Shooter on a couple of my jigs/t-rig rods to do a comparison against Seaguar Tatsu to find which one I prefer.

Bottom line, I use mainly fluoro because it provides an overall consistent feel and allows excellent sensitivity during slack line presentations which happens in most all bottom contact techniques. Also I cannot stand the belly that braid has while baits are sinking especially light baits and also if it is windy out.

My recommendations is that if you choose FC, dont buy cheap. Too many issues and downsides to the cheaper products. FC really shines in their higher end gear and Seaguar Tatsu has excellent longevity. It ends out costing me about $10 per spool not bad at all and it is totally worth it to me because when you look at how much $ you drop on a rod, reel, baits etc. Why go cheap on your line?

  • Super User
Posted

Sufix Elite or Siege for all your mono needs

  • Super User
Posted

Power Pro 50# for frogs and jigs/pitch. Yozuri 15# for Texas rigged soft plastics/swim plastics. Yozuri 12# for cranking.

  • Super User
Posted
Daiwa Samurai for frogging.

Trilene XL for topwater

Seaguar Tatsu on my Spinning gear for dropshotting, flickshakes, shakeyheads, light jigs etc.

Seaguar Tatsu on my Casting Gear for Jigs, t-rigs, wacky rigs, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, etc.

I am also mixing in Sunline Shooter on a couple of my jigs/t-rig rods to do a comparison against Seaguar Tatsu to find which one I prefer.

Bottom line, I use mainly fluoro because it provides an overall consistent feel and allows excellent sensitivity during slack line presentations which happens in most all bottom contact techniques. Also I cannot stand the belly that braid has while baits are sinking especially light baits and also if it is windy out.

My recommendations is that if you choose FC, dont buy cheap. Too many issues and downsides to the cheaper products. FC really shines in their higher end gear and Seaguar Tatsu has excellent longevity. It ends out costing me about $10 per spool not bad at all and it is totally worth it to me because when you look at how much $ you drop on a rod, reel, baits etc. Why go cheap on your line?

+1

Will also add mono for jerkbaits preferably 10#. I use Trilene XL but any good mono should suffice. For cranking I would try invisix or abrisix in either 10 or 12#. For finesee baits you can try sunline sniper or any of sunline's specialty finesse lines. Like skeletor said with line playing a sufficient role in each technique, I just can't see going cheap here unless a budget otherwise dictates.

Posted

Texas rig/jig-flouro I have used invisix, abrazx with good results currently have sunline sniper

Cranks- invisix

Spinnerbait/swim jig- always used sensation but just spooled some pline cxx to try

Topwater/jerkbait- trilene big game

All spinning- suffix 832 with invisix leader

I also have a couple of general use rods that get sensation

  • Super User
Posted

Later this month or early next month, Walmart is likely to discount much of their current line stock to make room for next years stock.  There are bargains and value to be had here.   I've found  the Spiderline superXXX mono in 17 or 20 lb test to be a good spinnerbait line.  The same for the Stren super knot line.

I like to use 10 lb mono for long distance deep cranking and I tend to swap out that line a lot.   Nearly any brand will last for 2 or 3 trips.  I am not a fan of the Berkley BIG GAME line at all, I have had enough unfortunate experiences with that line that I won't buy it anymore

 

Some of last years braids will be knocked off a few dollars, it all depends on what the department manager in each Walmart thinks. 

Posted

How is everyone choosing what pound test to use and what is a good place to start for particular techniques? Even after spending quite a few years fishing, I have trouble figuring this part out.

  • Super User
Posted

I recommend a big spool of Berkley big game for backing.

30 and 50 pound Suffix 832: Flipping pitching into grass or cover.

12-15 pound Yo-zuri hybrid: Cranking topwater

14 pound Bass Pro fluoro: clear water applications plastics

8-10 pound Bass Pro fluoro for leader.

That should cover 99% of fresh water applications.

Posted

65lb PowerPro for umbrella rigs, frogging, and heavy matt vegetation

50lb Sufix 832 for flipping, docks, and Carolina Rigs

25lb Trilene Big Game for flipping when I think the fish are pressured

20lb Trilene Big Game for Buzzbaits

16lb Sunline Sniper FC  for Spinnerbaits, casting jigs, football jigs

14lb Sunline Sniper FC for Senko style baits and squarebill crankbaits

14lb Trilene XL for Topwater

10lb Sunline Sniper FC for Crankbaits and jerkbaits

10lb Sunline Sniper FC for T-Rigs

10lb Trilene XL for jerkbaits in cold water when fluorocarbon makes the bait sink instead of suspend

7lb Sunline Sniper FC for Finesse fishing

4lb Sunline Sniper FC for really finesse situations

  • Super User
Posted

Well, I'm gonna be the odd ball out here. I am going to try all braid this year.

 

I will use leaders when I feel it is necessary.

 

I'm using Sufix performance in the following:

 

65# flipping/heavy jigs

50# T-rigs in cover/topwater

30# spinnerbiats/t-rigs in open water

30# crankbaits

30# drop shot

30# shakey head

 

I will be using 10# Sufix fluoro as leader line

  • Super User
Posted
Well, I'm gonna be the odd ball out here. I am going to try all braid this year.

I will use leaders when I feel it is necessary.

I'm using Sufix performance in the following:

65# flipping/heavy jigs

50# T-rigs in cover/topwater

30# spinnerbiats/t-rigs in open water

30# crankbaits

30# drop shot

30# shakey head

I will be using 10# Sufix fluoro as leader line

Your spot on for these waters around here. After finding out that Lake Bell Cow east end is gin clear, my plastics and top water I switched up a bit

Posted
How is everyone choosing what pound test to use and what is a good place to start for particular techniques? Even after spending quite a few years fishing, I have trouble figuring this part out.

Some of it is what you feel comfortable with, and some of it relies on how you want your bait to react. Go with the lightest strength you feel comfortable with, but make sure not to under-line your equipment. In cases such as more technical Crankbait fishing, wacky rigging, jerkbaits, etc. you want to pick a line based on how it will affect the running depth or sink rate of the lure. Generally, the smaller the line diameter the more depth you get on your crankbaits and jerkbaits. This can be reversed if you want to run your bait shallower. As for lures where the Rate Of Fall is important, choosing a fluorocarbon line, which sinks, over a floating mono-filament will increase the speed of the lure's descent. I personally use Sufix Elite for all of my mono needs, and it works superbly. I am still experimenting with superlines, and more keep showing up on the market every year  :dazed-7:  

Posted

Is anyone using a copolymer? I remember someone recommending it to me for an application on here a year or two ago. Also, what differences am I going to find between a FC and a FC coated line?

  • Super User
Posted

If you want to get technique specific, go for it, it's fun!

However, with the exception of heavy cover, two lines

will meet all of your bass fishing needs:

 

Spinning tackle: Yo-Zuri Hybrid #6

 

Baitcasting:  Hybrid #12

 

 

:cooking-egg-31:

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
If you want to get technique specific, go for it, it's fun!

However, with the exception of heavy cover, two lines

will meet all of your bass fishing needs:

 

Spinning tackle: Yo-Zuri Hybrid #6

 

Baitcasting:  Hybrid #12

 

 

:cooking-egg-31:

 

A big X2.  If you fish in slop, add a heavy braid.  Keep it simple, Go catch fish.  As you gain experience, you might want to experiment with line types.  Just keep in mind that you don't NEED all sorts of different lines to catch fish.

 

I caught 1236 fish in 2012 - most of those were caught using just a couple types of line. Had I used the theoretically optimum line for each technique/presentation - perhaps I would have caught 1300 or so...or not... :lol:

Posted
If you want to get technique specific, go for it, it's fun!

However, with the exception of heavy cover, two lines

will meet all of your bass fishing needs:

 

Spinning tackle: Yo-Zuri Hybrid #6

 

Baitcasting:  Hybrid #12

 

 

:cooking-egg-31:

Yeah, I could go with that myself. My only problem is I keep wanting to try new line and picking some up here and there. I did get a 1lb spool of 6# hybrid (and some of the 12# too) last fall so I have a feeling it's going to end up on more than a couple of reels this spring. Even the 6# seems tough as nails.

  • Super User
Posted

Okay...

 

Let's try the best fluorocarbon I have ever fished: Tatsu

If you use it as a leader it is not ridiculously expensive, 

but as a mainline it's pricey. Either way, you will love this

line!

 

 

:love7:

  • Like 1
Posted

I keep it simple, braid and mono.

 

braid on jig/flipping/frog rods

mono on everything else.

 

 

-gk

Posted
Is anyone using a copolymer? I remember someone recommending it to me for an application on here a year or two ago. Also, what differences am I going to find between a FC and a FC coated line?

 

A FC coated line generally is going to float a little bit.  The coating is going to keep the line from absorbing water, will keep the line from deterating from UV rays, and help with abrasion resistance which will mean it will last longer.  However, its been my experience that is not quite the case because as you cast the line gets scratched just by going through guides and obviously the normal abrasion from line coming in contact with underwater objects.  Overtime the line will absorb water and the sun will start to effect it although it happens at a slower pace than straight mono.  I will say that it does help with the sensativity of the line but its still nothing like straight fluoro or braid.

  • Super User
Posted

Suggestions:

1.  Look at the rods you will be using and note the line test paramaters. Stay within these test limits.

2.  Mono for treble hook baits and flourocarbon for all other applications. Braid for anything you want just do some research on braid so you will use it properly and in the right conditions.

3.  Go to a store that turns over their line fast. This means you will purchase fresh line.

4.  Know the techniques you are going to be using and the best line test for them.

5.  Know the waters you are fishing to decide if you need specific line (anti-abrasive, etc.) for the applications.

6.  Will line color be important? Some guys favor clear while others like a green tint.

7.  Any brands you want.

 

The problem with your query is that everyone has a favorite line via a manufacturer.

 

You have to decide what brands you want to purchase.

 

Fishing line is expensive. You need to be sure you secure the line that gives you confidence.

 

When spooling your reels remember to write down what line you have on what reel so if there is a problem or if the line worked great you will know the line details you put on that reel.

 

And lastly, and this is extremely important, take that hat with the big orange T on it and throw it overboard and put on a beautiful and stylish purple and gold cap. You will catch more fish!!!!!

 

Good luck and Geaux Tigers!

  • Like 1

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