Finally Finished Installing New Electronics

[BassnChris]

Finally got my 2 new fish finders and trolling motor installed.

Could not spend the $25 for trolling motor mount transducer clamp......made my own using the existing hardware plus $1.98 hose clamp and rubber lamp bottoms.

Do I need to do something with the structure scan wire under the step? I have it secured running up the transom.

[Fishing Rhino]

One suggestion.  I'd run the cable for the stern transducer over the top of the transducer in line with the hull, rather than running across it as seen in the picture.  I'd also secure it to the hull with a couple of cable clamps.  You might not like the idea of drilling the hull to mount the clamps but, here's why.

 

Up on plane the water will pass beneath the cable, but while getting up on plane, and coming down off plane the water might grab that cable that runs diagonally across the line of travel.  If it does, it will tug against the housing of the transducer, and doing so repeatedly over time could damage the cable.  If it's secured above the transducer, in line with the hull, the cable is in line with the direction of the boat over the water.  There is not much surface for the water to "grab" the cable, and the clamps will be holding the cable in place rather than the water tugging the cable against the housing of the transducer.

[BassnChris]

One suggestion. I'd run the cable for the stern transducer over the top of the transducer in line with the hull, rather than running across it as seen in the picture. I'd also secure it to the hull with a couple of cable clamps. You might not like the idea of drilling the hull to mount the clamps but, here's why.

Up on plane the water will pass beneath the cable, but while getting up on plane, and coming down off plane the water might grab that cable that runs diagonally across the line of travel. If it does, it will tug against the housing of the transducer, and doing so repeatedly over time could damage the cable. If it's secured above the transducer, in line with the hull, the cable is in line with the direction of the boat over the water. There is not much surface for the water to "grab" the cable, and the clamps will be holding the cable in place rather than the water tugging the cable against the housing of the transducer.

You're right, I don't like the idea of drilling into the hull. :-)

But that is what I told my wife I should probably do.........you confirmed it for me.

Plus, that'll give me something to do tomorrow night after work......I mean other than iron my work clothes.

That's the kind of info I was looking for.......thanks.

[Fishing Rhino]

Be sure to use the right sized drill for the screw.  Too tight and you'll get spider cracks around the edges of the hole.  The instructions should tell you what size drill to use if clamps were included in the hardware package.  Get a small tube of marine grade silicone sealant, and fill the holes before installing the screws.  It will insure a tight seal and prevent water intrusion.  Use masking tape or adhesive tape, and wrap it around the drill bit to act as a depth gauge.  Wrap it around so the exposed part of the drill is slightly longer than the screw you'll be using.  

 

I start using a very small drill bit, then I use a countersink.  The diameter of the countersunk hole should be slightly larger than the drill size you'll be using for the screw.  If you don't do this, the gel coat is apt to chip.  When you've finished drilling the appropriate size hole for the screw, the hole will have a slightly bevelled edge.  The sealant will fill the slight bevel, and a bit may ooze out from beneath the clamp.  Unless you have a big blob of sealant, leave it as is.  If you have a big blob, use a finger to remove most of the excess.  Leave some to make sure you get a good seal at the screw and clamp.

[BassnChris]

Gotcha Rhino.

I notice a few weeks ago that the marine silicone I bought and used on my last fish finder setup was not rated for above and below the water line........I had no issues with it and those holes have since been repaired by my fiberglass guy.

So I bought a tube that is rated for above and below the water line. And thanks...the countersink idea is right on with what I did for my TM install.

Thanks.....greats advice all round.

[Fishing Rhino]

The silicone for shower and tub enclosures is probably acceptable, but I'm not sure.  It's certainly not worth a gamble to save a couple of dollars.

 

Here's a neat trick for silicone if you want to install something like a ram mount and want it to be watertight.  When you've laid it out, and have the holes drilled, put a good bead of silicone on the face of the mount that will be against the boat.  Then install it, tightening the fasteners just enough so the silicone bead starts to bulge out around the edges.  Then let it sit for 12 to 24 hours.  Once it sets up, you have a nice silicone gasket.  When you finish tightening it down, it will not squeeze out. 

 

Most people will just tighten it down right away.  All that does is to squeeze the silicone out from between the two surfaces.  What silicone remains, is not compressed, so it will not seal as well.

 

I learned this the hard way when I replaced the lexan window panels on my lobster boat.  I applied the silicone and tightened the windows.  Within a year, water from spray would trickle between the lexan and the wood.  Someone told me about the technique to make a silicone gasket.

 

When I did that, the windows never leaked again.

[Al Wolbach]

The silicone for shower and tub enclosures is probably acceptable, but I'm not sure.  It's certainly not worth a gamble to save a couple of dollars.

 

Here's a neat trick for silicone if you want to install something like a ram mount and want it to be watertight.  When you've laid it out, and have the holes drilled, put a good bead of silicone on the face of the mount that will be against the boat.  Then install it, tightening the fasteners just enough so the silicone bead starts to bulge out around the edges.  Then let it sit for 12 to 24 hours.  Once it sets up, you have a nice silicone gasket.  When you finish tightening it down, it will not squeeze out. 

 

Most people will just tighten it down right away.  All that does is to squeeze the silicone out from between the two surfaces.  What silicone remains, is not compressed, so it will not seal as well.

 

I learned this the hard way when I replaced the lexan window panels on my lobster boat.  I applied the silicone and tightened the windows.  Within a year, water from spray would trickle between the lexan and the wood.  Someone told me about the technique to make a silicone gasket.

 

When I did that, the windows never leaked again.

 I learned something today................Thanks, Rhino

[einsteins]

Me too...

Thanks!