Looking For Rod And Reel Spec Recommendations

[Toeshots]

I am trying to get a 3 rod/reel setup going and was looking for some recommendations as to what specs I should be aiming for in each. Here is what I have right now:

Reels:

Baitcaster 7.1:1 Ratio and 29" per turn

Baitcaster 6.4:1 Ratio and 28" per turn

Rods:

6' Medium power with fast tip

5'6" (previously 6' med power/fast tip) which has been repaired after snapping at the tip. This probably gives it a medium action tip. I am hoping I can salvage this rod and put it into practical use, if reasonably possible.

Additional info:

I do 99% of my fishing in a boat of less than 20ft in length with at least 1 other person in it (usually 2). As space will be limited, I would like to avoid rods over 6'6" as long as its not a significant detriment to the ability to hook/land bass. Also, I am 5'7", if that has much of an effect on proper rod length.

Here are the 3 setups I am looking to have:

1. Rig for casting/pitching jigs in light to moderate cover. I'm thinking the 7.1:1 for this and buying a 6'6" MH rod with a fast tip to pair it up with. This rig will probably be used 60% of the time.

2. Rig for Texas-Rigged plastics in light to moderate cover. I'm thinking the 6.4:1 and another 6'6" MH with a fast tip. This rig will probably be used 30% of the time.

3. Rig for shallow/medium depth crankbaits (generally fishing in less than 8ft of water), spinnerbaits, and topwaters. For this I am looking at a 5.2:1 reel with 21" per turn. I am not sure on the rod. Would the 6' medium power with fast tip that I already own be good for this? I am a big fan of Rapalas (SR and SSR #7's) which are pretty lightweight, so I will need to be able to get some distance out of the casts. This rig will be used when not using one of the two listed above.

Any and all suggestions or comments on my thoughts would be very much appreciated!

***See updated post below***

[roadwarrior]

For enthusiasts, technique specific gear is fun

to collect. However, three rigs cover all the

basics:

#1 6 1/2' or 7' MH baitcaster for jigs, some

soft plastics and spinnerbaits

#2 6 1/2' or 7' MM baitcaster for treble hook

lures

#3 7' MF spinning rod for lighter lures and a

variety of techniques

[Toeshots]

RW, thanks for the response and I agree that that those will cover just about everything, however I am looking to have the different setups always ready to go. Is it overkill? Absolutely, but I'd still like to make it happen!

At this point, I'm mostly concerned about selecting the right rods. The reels are certainly in the works, but I want to make sure i get the rods right first. Rod specs would be just fine then I can do the research and pick the brand I think will be the best fit. Here's an updated version of what I want:

1) Jig Rod for casting/pitching light/moderate cover

2) T-Rig Worm Rod (probably will be the same as the Jig Rod)

3) Crankbait Rod to cover crankbaits running 2-12ft

4) Spinnerbait Rod

Can you guys help me get a good idea of specs on each of these? Also, as I mentioned in the first post, space in the boat generally tends to be a little limited and I am 5'7" in height, so if the somewhat longer-length rods (7' and up) wont put me at a disadvantage, It would be nice to max out around the 6'6" range.

Thanks!

[The one that got away]

If I were you, I'd stick with what RW suggested. Just get them in 6'6" length if that's what works for you. But it sounds like you want to have more rods than that, rigged and ready to go. No problem with that if there's money to spend, and room in the boat.

I'd 86 the broken rod, get the rods RW recommended, and keep the 6ft rod and use it for whatever the other rods don't already have tied on. That will give you three casting rods and a spinning rod. Put the 7.1 reel on the MH rod, put the 6.4 reel on the 6' rod you have, get the slower reel you mentioned and put that on a moderate action rod, and use the spinning rod for lighter lures. All done.

Of course, it's always easier to set up other guys' equipment. I'd probably worry about it all winter, lol. Good luck with what you choose.

Final bit of advice, spend more on the bottom contact rod(s) than you do on the rod for moving baits.

[Toeshots]

Thanks for the info. The rod space in the boat is not an issue, but unfortunately the casting space is. Also, I'm not saying I have to limit them to 6'6", but I'm wondering if the bump up to 7' would really provide that much more benefit for me, or if it would end up being more of a hassle than anything.

Regardless, I've done some research and I'm really liking the following:

Jig Rod - St. Croix Avid 6'6" MH/F

Crankbait Rod - St. Croix Premier Crankbait 6'6" M/M

There is also a St. Croix special running so I would get a free St. Croix Rage Rod if I bought the two listed above. The Rage's reviews are less than stellar, so maybe I'd just sell it and use the money towards the next rod or maybe a reel. I suppose I'll at least see how it feels when I head to BPS next week.

[Arv]

It sounds like you're off to a good start. Personally, if you find a jig rod that you like, I would stick with it for a t-rig rod as well. Mine all double up. For moving baits like spinners and cranks, I don't think you need AS expensive a rod as you do for bottom contact. I use a Mojo Bass for my spinnerbaits and other similar applications and I like it a lot. Its their "spinnerbait" version so its got enough backbone to set the hook and soft enough tip to load up on the cast. Obviously, stepping up anything from there will perform just as good if not better. If you are taking advantage of the Rage Rod deal I think its a good idea to see how the rod performs. I have heard a few people that do actually really like theirs. Another thing you might think of doing is just buying all 4 rods, getting 2 Rage's and selling those. You could make a chunk of change back for nothing doing that.

Back to your Jig/Worm rods though. Since you have already picked out one that is a MH power, I would recommend stepping it up to a H power on the other one. If you only have 3-4 rods, I don't see the point of having duplicates. This will allow you to either take on heavier cover, handle bigger weights, etc. I really do prefer 7'+ rods for worming and jigging, but that really comes down to personal preference IMO. If it will wind up being a hindrance, stick with the 6'6 range.

That's my 2 cents. Hopefully its somewhat helpful. Best of luck!

[roadwarrior]

This is specifically what I have:

Topwater: G.Loomis GLX PR844C/ Core 100MG/ #12 Yo-Zuri Hybrid

Spinnerbaits: St. Croix LEC70MHF/ Calais/ Hybrid #12; G-Blank Custom/ STX/ Hybrid #12

Small Swimbaits and Swim Jigs: GLX MBR842C/ Core 50MG/ Hybrid #12

Jerkbaits: Avid AVC66MF/ Scorpion 1000/ #12 Sunline Super Natural

Medium Crankbaits: Avid AVC70MM/ Chronarch 50MG/ Hybrid #12

Deep Crankbaits: Laimglas SR705R/ CTE200GT/ Hybrid #12

This is also for my A-Rig, but another CTE200GT with 80 lb Sufix 832

Weightless Soft Plastics: St. Croix LES70MF/ Stella 2500FE/ Hybrid #6 and Loomis BCR893/ Curado 50E/ Hybrid #12

Weighted Soft Plastics: GLX 844C/ CTE100GT/ 50 lb Sufix 832

Jigs: BCR854/ Curado 200E/ 50 lb Sufix 832; Dobyns Champion 683C/ Chronarch 50MG

Live Bait: GLX PR844S/ Stella 2500FD/ #4 Hybrid

Crappie, White Bass and Trout: Avid AVS66MLF/ Stella 1000FA/ Hybrid #4; Ray Scott Original/ Symetre 500/ #4

Striper: IMX844C/ CTE200GT/ P-Line CXX #15

[21farms]

if you snap 6" off a fast-action rod, it is most likely extra-fast now, not medium. in any case, i'd retire that rod.

i'm 5'8" and i remember a time long ago when most rods were 5'6" and i thought even 6' was long. then again, i fished out of a 12' rowboat and couldn't stand while fishing. nowadays, it's hard to find many rods under 6'6" and i find 7' to be the sweet spot for me. i think after you get used to it, you'll like it more too. i have a ranger 520vx and find a 20-footer is a pretty roomy boat!

here's my recommendations based on your list and your desire to keep them on the shorter side:

1) Jig Rod for casting/pitching light/moderate cover and 2) T-Rig Worm Rod

you definitely want to go medium/heavy here and at least 6'6" with a fast to extra-fast tip (fast is much better at casting distance and accuracy and is more versatile whereas extra-fast makes pitching slightly easier and, at least for me, hooksets using jigs with weedguards a tad more positive). pair it with a fast reel...i use 7:1 and 8:1 reels here.

3) Crankbait Rod to cover crankbaits running 2-12ft

7'0" medium power/moderate to moderate-fast action. i too love rapala #7 shad raps and my favorite rod to throw those on is a 7' abu-garcia veritas rod with a 5:1 or 6:1reel. last year, i used the VRC70-5 which worked great for me but i recently picked up the 'winch' version (VRCW70-5) and plan to start using that instead this coming spring. for shad raps, you don't really need to go down to a 5:1 reel since shallow runners and shad raps don't have much water resistance and it doesn't sound like you'll be throwing DD22s...i just happen use a 5:1 because i naturally crank really fast and can't seem to help myself. a 6:1 reel would be a good choice and a lot more versatile too.

4) Spinnerbait Rod

i still have not found a rod for spinnerbaits that i like more than my g.loomis SBR813C (6'9", medium/heavy power, extra fast action). on a spinnerbait rod, you can definitely go down to 6'6" and not lose too much. if you're on a budget, i'd recommend the falcon bucoo 6'6" MH/F and a 6:1 reel. some people like 7:1 reels for burning spinnerbaits but i find it tiring and even drop down to a 5:1 sometimes as i find it easier to reel fast on a light handle than to reel slower on a heavy handle.

happy fishin'

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Not open old wounds, but just to clarify, trimming length from either end of a blank results in a slower action. With that said, 6" off the tip will greatly reduce casting effectiveness especially on lighter weight baits. If you still have the tip a competent rod builder can slice the pieces with good results. Barring that, retire the rod.

[Toeshots]

It sounds like you're off to a good start. Personally, if you find a jig rod that you like, I would stick with it for a t-rig rod as well. Mine all double up. For moving baits like spinners and cranks, I don't think you need AS expensive a rod as you do for bottom contact. I use a Mojo Bass for my spinnerbaits and other similar applications and I like it a lot. Its their "spinnerbait" version so its got enough backbone to set the hook and soft enough tip to load up on the cast. Obviously, stepping up anything from there will perform just as good if not better. If you are taking advantage of the Rage Rod deal I think its a good idea to see how the rod performs. I have heard a few people that do actually really like theirs. Another thing you might think of doing is just buying all 4 rods, getting 2 Rage's and selling those. You could make a chunk of change back for nothing doing that.

Back to your Jig/Worm rods though. Since you have already picked out one that is a MH power, I would recommend stepping it up to a H power on the other one. If you only have 3-4 rods, I don't see the point of having duplicates. This will allow you to either take on heavier cover, handle bigger weights, etc. I really do prefer 7'+ rods for worming and jigging, but that really comes down to personal preference IMO. If it will wind up being a hindrance, stick with the 6'6 range.

That's my 2 cents. Hopefully its somewhat helpful. Best of luck!

You make a very good point about getting a Heavy.

So what are the main advantages of a 7' vs. 6'6"? Casting distance is probably slightly improved, but I'm guess it's mostly a leverage thing.

[Toeshots]

This is specifically what I have:

Topwater: G.Loomis GLX PR844C/ Core 100MG/ #12 Yo-Zuri Hybrid

Spinnerbaits: St. Croix LEC70MHF/ Calais/ Hybrid #12; G-Blank Custom/ STX/ Hybrid #12

Small Swimbaits and Swim Jigs: GLX MBR842C/ Core 50MG/ Hybrid #12

Jerkbaits: Avid AVC66MF/ Scorpion 1000/ #12 Sunline Super Natural

Medium Crankbaits: Avid AVC70MM/ Chronarch 50MG/ Hybrid #12

Deep Crankbaits: Laimglas SR705R/ CTE200GT/ Hybrid #12

This is also for my A-Rig, but another CTE200GT with 80 lb Sufix 832

Weightless Soft Plastics: St. Croix LES70MF/ Stella 2500FE/ Hybrid #6 and Loomis BCR893/ Curado 50E/ Hybrid #12

Weighted Soft Plastics: GLX 844C/ CTE100GT/ 50 lb Sufix 832

Jigs: BCR854/ Curado 200E/ 50 lb Sufix 832; Dobyns Champion 683C/ Chronarch 50MG

Live Bait: GLX PR844S/ Stella 2500FD/ #4 Hybrid

Crappie, White Bass and Trout: Avid AVS66MLF/ Stella 1000FA/ Hybrid #4; Ray Scott Original/ Symetre 500/ #4

Striper: IMX844C/ CTE200GT/ P-Line CXX #15

Very nice collection!

[Toeshots]

if you snap 6" off a fast-action rod, it is most likely extra-fast now, not medium. in any case, i'd retire that rod.

i'm 5'8" and i remember a time long ago when most rods were 5'6" and i thought even 6' was long. then again, i fished out of a 12' rowboat and couldn't stand while fishing. nowadays, it's hard to find many rods under 6'6" and i find 7' to be the sweet spot for me. i think after you get used to it, you'll like it more too. i have a ranger 520vx and find a 20-footer is a pretty roomy boat!

here's my recommendations based on your list and your desire to keep them on the shorter side:

1) Jig Rod for casting/pitching light/moderate cover and 2) T-Rig Worm Rod

you definitely want to go medium/heavy here and at least 6'6" with a fast to extra-fast tip (fast is much better at casting distance and accuracy and is more versatile whereas extra-fast makes pitching slightly easier and, at least for me, hooksets using jigs with weedguards a tad more positive). pair it with a fast reel...i use 7:1 and 8:1 reels here.

3) Crankbait Rod to cover crankbaits running 2-12ft

7'0" medium power/moderate to moderate-fast action. i too love rapala #7 shad raps and my favorite rod to throw those on is a 7' abu-garcia veritas rod with a 5:1 or 6:1reel. last year, i used the VRC70-5 which worked great for me but i recently picked up the 'winch' version (VRCW70-5) and plan to start using that instead this coming spring. for shad raps, you don't really need to go down to a 5:1 reel since shallow runners and shad raps don't have much water resistance and it doesn't sound like you'll be throwing DD22s...i just happen use a 5:1 because i naturally crank really fast and can't seem to help myself. a 6:1 reel would be a good choice and a lot more versatile too.

4) Spinnerbait Rod

i still have not found a rod for spinnerbaits that i like more than my g.loomis SBR813C (6'9", medium/heavy power, extra fast action). on a spinnerbait rod, you can definitely go down to 6'6" and not lose too much. if you're on a budget, i'd recommend the falcon bucoo 6'6" MH/F and a 6:1 reel. some people like 7:1 reels for burning spinnerbaits but i find it tiring and even drop down to a 5:1 sometimes as i find it easier to reel fast on a light handle than to reel slower on a heavy handle.

happy fishin'

Thanks for thorough reply. I guess my thought on breaking off the tip was that I broke off the fast action section and shortened a rod the was built to be longer. I would expect the action to be slower as a result.

I agree that the 5:1 is not really necessary for the Shad Raps. I may end up going that route anyways, though, as I will have the setup the go little bigger and deeper should I decide to do so.

[Toeshots]

Not open old wounds, but just to clarify, trimming length from either end of a blank results in a slower action. With that said, 6" off the tip will greatly reduce casting effectiveness especially on lighter weight baits. If you still have the tip a competent rod builder can slice the pieces with good results. Barring that, retire the rod.

Yea I think I'll be taking the rod out of service. Maybe I'll throw a small, cheap reel on it and just keep it as a beater or to use when just doing some casual fishing off the dock.

[Arv]

You make a very good point about getting a Heavy.

So what are the main advantages of a 7' vs. 6'6"? Casting distance is probably slightly improved, but I'm guess it's mostly a leverage thing.

In a way, leverage, yes. The way I've heard it explained (which makes sense to me) is you will essentially move more line on a hookset with a longer rod. If you think about two points A and B on the perimeter of a circle, lets say they span the length of 1/4 of the circle, the distance between the points will be greater on the perimeter of the larger circle. With a longer rod, you make a larger circle. This allows you to set the hook "better," in a way. The additional line movement will allow you to make up for any mistakes you make in driving the hook through.

If you go to around 9 minutes Gary Dobyns does a pretty good job explaining this concept.

With that said, guys still catch fish on 6'6 rods all the time... so, this doesn't make or break the rod IMO. I believe the Avid comes in a 6'6 H/F.

[21farms]

Thanks for thorough reply. I guess my thought on breaking off the tip was that I broke off the fast action section and shortened a rod the was built to be longer. I would expect the action to be slower as a result.

yes, you're correct...i misspoke. what i meant was that you'd be getting to the power section of the rod faster and you would no longer have that nice tip flex that would aid in casting and fighting a fish.

I agree that the 5:1 is not really necessary for the Shad Raps. I may end up going that route anyways, though, as I will have the setup the go little bigger and deeper should I decide to do so.

yep, i really like a slow reel for shad raps...i feel like the reduced resistance while cranking helps me notice strikes easier.

here's another thought: gear swaps. i don't know about abu or daiwa but swapping gears in shimanos is super easy and inexpensive. i changed my citica Es from their native 6.3:1 to 5:1 and to 7:1 and back again. i did the swaps in my curados too. perhaps with your three reels, you can get a 7:1, a 6:1 and a 5:1...if you're not happy with one of them, just buy another gear set and make the swap.

[Toeshots]

In a way, leverage, yes. The way I've heard it explained (which makes sense to me) is you will essentially move more line on a hookset with a longer rod. If you think about two points A and B on the perimeter of a circle, lets say they span the length of 1/4 of the circle, the distance between the points will be greater on the perimeter of the larger circle. With a longer rod, you make a larger circle. This allows you to set the hook "better," in a way. The additional line movement will allow you to make up for any mistakes you make in driving the hook through.

If you go to around 9 minutes Gary Dobyns does a pretty good job explaining this concept.

With that said, guys still catch fish on 6'6 rods all the time... so, this doesn't make or break the rod IMO. I believe the Avid comes in a 6'6 H/F.

Can't argue with the logic/physics.

It all comes down to me getting the different length rods in my hand then making the decision. When factoring in the handle, I've realized these 7-footers really are not drastically longer than I'm used to.

[Toeshots]

yes, you're correct...i misspoke. what i meant was that you'd be getting to the power section of the rod faster and you would no longer have that nice tip flex that would aid in casting and fighting a fish.

yep, i really like a slow reel for shad raps...i feel like the reduced resistance while cranking helps me notice strikes easier.

here's another thought: gear swaps. i don't know about abu or daiwa but swapping gears in shimanos is super easy and inexpensive. i changed my citica Es from their native 6.3:1 to 5:1 and to 7:1 and back again. i did the swaps in my curados too. perhaps with your three reels, you can get a 7:1, a 6:1 and a 5:1...if you're not happy with one of them, just buy another gear set and make the swap.

Didn't realize gears could be swapped with relative ease. Could be useful if I can find a great deal on a reel that may not be the specific gear ratio and IPT I was looking for.

[Arv]

Can't argue with the logic/physics.

It all comes down to me getting the different length rods in my hand then making the decision. When factoring in the handle, I've realized these 7-footers really are not drastically longer than I'm used to.

Yeah, honestly I don't think its going to make THAT big of a difference. If a couple 100,000 dollars were on the line I might be more concerned but until that point, I'd just go with doesn't whack your friends in the back of the head.

[21farms]

Didn't realize gears could be swapped with relative ease. Could be useful if I can find a great deal on a reel that may not be the specific gear ratio and IPT I was looking for.

the main thing is to do your homework first to identify the parts you'll need and check their availability. shimanos were easy because they have a nice and simple single stack drag...you only need to replace the main gear and the pinion gear (and, in some cases, the key washer and a different size drag washer). plus, it's easy to order directly from shimano and they only charge a flat $3 shipping fee. with a revo, i'd imagine it could get kinda pricey because of all the different washers in their drag system. the tackletrap sells some gear conversion kits to make it all even easier.

[Toeshots]

Alright, so I bought the Avid 7' MH/F and the Premier Crankbait 6'6" MH/M (medium was too whippy) which means I have a free incoming Rage. I know it's not the most popular rod, but is it worth keeping since I'm paying nothing for it? I don't know what I'd dollar-wise get if I tried to sell it. Probably not a much as I'd like...

Anyway, if I do keep it, I'm thinking this could be a good candidate for the Spinnerbait Rod. As such, I'm looking at the 6'8" MH/F, M/F or M/XF. Will the Medium have the backbone to drive the hook through? Is there a benefit to an XF tip for spinnerbaits? Here's a link to the possible options:

http://www.stcroixrods.com/product/rage

I know their rods can run a little firm, so maybe the Medium would work?