Best Line?

[VinnieT]

Im getting an Abu Garcia Revo s, and a Veritas that has 8-17 pound test limit. What is the best line in your opinion? (Bass fishing)

[skeletor6]

No doubt go with Seaguar Tatsu in 12lb unless you are fishing the really heavy cover. If you are looking to buy braid I would say Daiwa Samurai and I like the 55lb personally. I only use braid for frogging or if the area is extremely grassy. This rarely happens though so you will see me 99% of the time with premium fluorocarbon. Do not even bother with the cheaper fluorocarbon it does not pay off and you will no enjoy using it. I speak from experience

[LgMouthGambler]

I would either go straight 12# YoZuri, because its cheap enough to respool if you backlash a lot. Or, if you are well skilled, you could go the Tatsu route. If you want a best of both worlds setup, you could use a good braid like Power Pro in a 50#, and you could leader in a mono/fluoro line if needed.

[VinnieT]

Which is better, mono or fluoro? Are Berkley lines any good?

[Arv]

I would recommend 12lb Yo Zuri Hybrid as well. I have that on half of my set ups. Great all around line.

[Arv]

Which is better, mono or fluoro? Are Berkley lines any good?

Mono or fluoro depends on the application. I prefer fluoro, braid or co polymer.

[VinnieT]

I've also heard good things about the Bass Pro Shops xps fluorocarbon. Is this line good?

[skeletor6]

I would either go straight 12# YoZuri, because its cheap enough to respool if you backlash a lot. Or, if you are well skilled, you could go the Tatsu route. If you want a best of both worlds setup, you could use a good braid like Power Pro in a 50#, and you could leader in a mono/fluoro line if needed.

I like the versatility of using braid with a leader. Such a setup could allow one to fish just about every technique. Although saying it is the "best of both worlds" is misleading. You get all of the benefits of braid, and the near invisibility of fluorocarbon, while also adding another knot to the system, but personally I dont have a problem with the knot since the alberto works just fine.

Its a fact that braid does not transmit on a slack line because of belly and that fluorocarbon does transmit on a slack line. A fluorocarbon leader does not solve that issue. Undoubtedly braid gives the ultimate in sensitivity while on a tight line. Just while fishing a jig, t-rig, dropshot, wacky senko, jackall flickshake, and twitching a fluke there will be slack lilne throughout the process and bass often hit during those times and having the sensitivity during those times is essential to me.

Also braid has no abrasion resistance and having a leader does not completely solve that problem. And while even using the higher diameter braids, at some point it will dig into the spool maybe from a snag or fighting a fish. Once this happens it will cause break offs, backlashes, lost fish, and if you fish braid long enough you will encounter this. Also braid is much more likely to tip wrap than fluoro. Furthermore, braid floats, so if you are using lighter baits you are going to have extreme belly going as the bait is falling leading to having to watch the floating braid in order to see a strike, because you certainly won't feel the strike. If the conditions are windy braids behavior gets even worse.

Fluorocarbon on the other hand has much more consistent casting behavior and allows for a more consistent feel all around. The line sinks, removing the issues with lighter baits and it also transmits sensitivity on slack line hits far better. The entirety of the line has refraction indexes similar to water removing visibility problems and the line will not bleed its color like braid does. Also, there is no worry about the line popping while fishing your lure through wood or rocks.

I will not refute the fact that dragging with braid will give the best sensitivity that one can get and that adding a fluorocarbon leader will allow for the line to have less visibility which is a good thing especially in clear waters. Braid also will last longer and is good for growing through thick grassy situations. Also, braid is great for frogging and I would not use fluorocarbon for that or any floating techniques for that matter. Also, if you buy cheap fluorocarbon you will be severely disappointed and think it sucks. Not all fluorocarbon is created equal and many have terrible manageability, stretch, knot strength and many other issues. Tatsu is great in every aspect and when backed with cheap mono is actually not that costly, still braid is cheaper.

Pick your poison!

[kickerfish1]

The best line? ...need more information than that. Are you talking about all purpose line? A good line for bottom contact baits? topwater? crankbaits?

Depending upon what you plan on using the set up for will dictate what is a "good" choice for line.

Also different lines will have different traits such as longevity, abrasian resistance, sensitivity, handling, breaking stregnth, etc...

Trilene XL or is a good line to sort of do it all. However outside of its handling and topwater use it generally isn't thought of as a line that is "best"

If you can be more specific and If you have a price limit that would help.

Many premium lines will be very pricey...pushing $35 for a spool.

[Arv]

I like the versatility of using braid with a leader. Such a setup could allow one to fish just about every technique. Although saying it is the "best of both worlds" is misleading. You get all of the benefits of braid, and the near invisibility of fluorocarbon, while also adding another knot to the system, but personally I dont have a problem with the knot since the alberto works just fine.

Its a fact that braid does not transmit on a slack line because of belly and that fluorocarbon does transmit on a slack line. A fluorocarbon leader does not solve that issue. Undoubtedly braid gives the ultimate in sensitivity while on a tight line. Just while fishing a jig, t-rig, dropshot, wacky senko, jackall flickshake, and twitching a fluke there will be slack lilne throughout the process and bass often hit during those times and having the sensitivity during those times is essential to me.

Also braid has no abrasion resistance and having a leader does not completely solve that problem. And while even using the higher diameter braids, at some point it will dig into the spool maybe from a snag or fighting a fish. Once this happens it will cause break offs, backlashes, lost fish, and if you fish braid long enough you will encounter this. Also braid is much more likely to tip wrap than fluoro. Furthermore, braid floats, so if you are using lighter baits you are going to have extreme belly going as the bait is falling leading to having to watch the floating braid in order to see a strike, because you certainly won't feel the strike. If the conditions are windy braids behavior gets even worse.

Fluorocarbon on the other hand has much more consistent casting behavior and allows for a more consistent feel all around. The line sinks, removing the issues with lighter baits and it also transmits sensitivity on slack line hits far better. The entirety of the line has refraction indexes similar to water removing visibility problems and the line will not bleed its color like braid does. Also, there is no worry about the line popping while fishing your lure through wood or rocks.

I will not refute the fact that dragging with braid will give the best sensitivity that one can get and that adding a fluorocarbon leader will allow for the line to have less visibility which is a good thing especially in clear waters. Braid also will last longer and is good for growing through thick grassy situations. Also, braid is great for frogging and I would not use fluorocarbon for that or any floating techniques for that matter. Also, if you buy cheap fluorocarbon you will be severely disappointed and think it sucks. Not all fluorocarbon is created equal and many have terrible manageability, stretch, knot strength and many other issues. Tatsu is great in every aspect and when backed with cheap mono is actually not that costly, still braid is cheaper.

Pick your poison!

Great post!

[mc6524]

I like yogurt, but quite honestly P-line fluro clear is really great line. I prefer mist green 12 lb tes

[TylerVC]

If this is your first baitcasting setup I would get trilene big game (its monofilament) in 12lb test. Its cheap and a decent line. You can also find it at many places like BPS and walmart.

[VinnieT]

The best line? ...need more information than that. Are you talking about all purpose line? A good line for bottom contact baits? topwater? crankbaits?

Depending upon what you plan on using the set up for will dictate what is a "good" choice for line.

Also different lines will have different traits such as longevity, abrasian resistance, sensitivity, handling, breaking stregnth, etc...

Trilene XL or is a good line to sort of do it all. However outside of its handling and topwater use it generally isn't thought of as a line that is "best"

If you can be more specific and If you have a price limit that would help.

Many premium lines will be very pricey...pushing $35 for a spool.

I will mainly be fishing with crankbaits and some soft plastics, with the occasional spinnerbait. What is a good choice of line? Also, is fluoro or mono best for a beginner with a baitcaster?

[new2BC4bass]

Of the 2 mono is better for a beginner. Actually braid is not a bad option either as it is easier to untangle (as a rule) than either of the other two. Plus it won't break from being kinked. However, it will snap lures off if the spool abruptly stops during a cast. Or the line wraps around the rod tip before the cast. Don't ask me how I know.

Guess my father, brothers and I should have been ashamed catching thousands of fish back in the 50s and 60s since mono is all we used. I still prefer mono except when throwing into such things as lily pads. When I visit Florida, braid is used probably 90% of the time as we are throwing into the lily pads or fishing in or over heavy weed beds.

EDIT: Mono is better for crankbaits. Fluro or braid is better for soft plastics.

[Mikey]

Silver Thread .... my fav. by far 2nd for me is Big Game.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

I like braid Super8 on all my reels. Based on my 10years with PP Im certain I feel bites on less than taunt line with a bow, no doubts. Ive use nightcrawler weightless and let the rod tip down and can feel the line when it twitches from a bite. Not just from a bass pulling it but from little gills nipping at the worm. See the line at the rod tip being aggravated. Ive fished this way countless of times 2 years in a row a good 90% WL crawlers was the only technique I used and a good 60% of my time otherwise always have crawlers with me. I think the lack of slack line feel of braid has been over-exaggerated by many just to hype their fluoro.

[VinnieT]

So for a beginner, mono is a good option?

[Arv]

Yes. Very manageable, not too expensive. If you feel like you want to try out another line after you get comfortable casting then definitely try it out. But the last thing you want to do is have to cut out some 30 dollar line because of a backlash.

[VinnieT]

So what mono line do you recommend? Also, why is fluoro not good for beginner? (besides price)

[skeletor6]

So what mono line do you recommend? Also, why is fluoro not good for beginner? (besides price)

Trilene XL is the mono line I would use if I were you.

The handling of fluoro can be suspect on cheaper fluorocarbon lines. If you are new to baitcasting, then backlashes are to be expected. Line that handles well will backlash less. Thus, easier handling line is better for a beginner. If you bring price into the equation, it would suck losing 50 yards of a premium fluoro because of a backlash.

A line like seaguar tatsu will handle very well and if you are not concerned with price you will be getting a much better line than trilene xl for everything, but topwater. Fluoro sinks so is not a topwater lure line and braid is not an option for any treble hooked lures because braid has zero abrasion resistance and those hooks will tear it apart.

Seriously if you are new to baitcasting Trilene XL is the way to go. I think most of us started on mono at some point and had no problem catching fish with it. Plus it can do everything from top water to cranks to worms and handles well and is relatively cheap.

[roadwarrior]

Well, I hate to be a stick-in-the mud, but Yo-Zuri Hybrid has so many superior

attributes, I think it is a much better choice. The cost is nearly the same or just

a few dollars more. The additional strength and abrasion resistance for a given

line diameter is extremely important.

[LgMouthGambler]

Well, I hate to be a stick-in-the mud, but Yo-Zuri Hybrid has so many superior

attributes, I think it is a much better choice. The cost is nearly the same or just

a few dollars more. The additional strength and abrasion resistance for a given

line diameter is extremely important.

Im gonna have to agree. At $15 for 600yds, I dont think you can compete.

[fishking247]

any mono will do fine. i would stay away from fluorocarbon though. i don't like but maybe you will

[Bama n Bass]

Yo-Zuri Hybrid is by far the best line I have ever used. I took #15 and bent my lake fork spoon treble hook trying to get it unstuck. The line is very strong and casts like a dream. Great stuff!