Super User Tuckahoe Joe Posted December 1, 2012 Super User Posted December 1, 2012 So Im sort of unclear about the use of drag. Ive been told to set it to 1/4 of the # test line Im using. But when a fish takes my lure, it starts to peel off line and as I reel, it seems like Im not getting anywhere. Theres a lot of thick weedlines and cover around where Im fishing and I don't want the fish to get into the cover and wrapped around something so whenever a fish hits, I almost always crank up my drag and then pull the fish in. That being the case, what is the point of setting the drag in the first place if Im just going to tighten it up? Maybe to keep a big fish from breaking the line? But I have yet to see or hear of anything bigger than 3 or 4 pounds coming out of my local lake. I souldn't have to worry about a 3 pound fish breaking 10 pound line right? I guess what Im looking for is an explanation of what to do once a fish starts taking line. Do you just let it take line, do you reel against the drag, do you tighten down on it right away? Im doing fine catching/landing fish but I wanna make sure I know how to use my equipment properly. Quote
Super User *Hootie Posted December 1, 2012 Super User Posted December 1, 2012 I've been using baitcasters for 45 yrs., and I have always just cranked my drag down until I can just barely pull line off by hand. I have never had a problem using this method. Hootie Quote
Super User LgMouthGambler Posted December 1, 2012 Super User Posted December 1, 2012 Like Hootie, I set mine by pulling line by hand. You can also set it by hooking the line to something and pulling up on the rod to see when the line starts to peel. Most of the time with baitcast equip your gonna set it so the rod doesnt snap. If you think about it, the line isnt soo much the variable since if you use 17lb test, most drags arent that powerful. Quote
Super User Gatorbassman Posted December 1, 2012 Super User Posted December 1, 2012 1/4 is where you set it if you are trolling. If you want to get precise than set it a 1/2 to 3/4 the breaking strength of the line and you should be good. I set my rods at a little over 1/2. Quote
Global Moderator Bluebasser86 Posted December 1, 2012 Global Moderator Posted December 1, 2012 I set mine pretty tight on all my reels, basically so it will just slip right before the breaking point in an emergency. If I hook a big fish and know I'm going to have to give it line I'd much rather release the thumb bar with my baitcasters or backreel with my spinning reels. I feel like I have much better control over the fish than I do by just setting my drag because I can apply or relieve pressure on the line as needed. This works fine for bass and most freshwater fish but don't try it for saltwater, you'll burn the end of your thumb off with a baitcaster or get you're knuckles broke by the spinning handle on a spinning reel Quote
Super User SirSnookalot Posted December 1, 2012 Super User Posted December 1, 2012 I've been using baitcasters for 45 yrs., and I have always just cranked my drag down until I can just barely pull line off by hand. I have never had a problem using this method. Hootie I use nothing but spinning gear and I set it the same way, but that isn't absolute. If I'm using weedless baits I may adjust the drag a tad tighter for a better hook set, a good fish is still going to take line. I have no idea of exactly what the poundage of my drag is, nor do I really need to know the precise number, using 2 combos of similar size one with heavier line than the other I don't see too much point in setting the drags differently. A fish is going to pull the same amount of line out whether you have 20# or 10# line on if the drags are set the same. A big fish is not going to break your line, if it's pulling line out the pressure is taken off the line and knots, when the line can break is when you tighten the drag too much on lighter lines. But as LMG says his drags are less than 17# line (or 65# braid) that being the case, most fish encountered can't possible break the line. Not saying you may not want to use heavier line in cover but in open water some very big fish can be had on some very light line, and by big I don't mean 10#, more like a 30 pound fish on 10 or 15# line and that is what brings you right back to your drag, let that fish run and tire itself out. Quote
Super User Tuckahoe Joe Posted December 1, 2012 Author Super User Posted December 1, 2012 Thanks for the input guys. I don't often bother with setting with a scale. I usually just do it by hand/feel. So basically it sounds like your saying that I can keep it fairly tight and not have a problem. What about when Im not fishing? Im assuming loosening the drag when not using my rod is better for the drag system. Quote
Super User SirSnookalot Posted December 2, 2012 Super User Posted December 2, 2012 I'm not saying keeping it too tight. It may take just a little bit of time to hone it in where you want it as far as setting the hook and once a fish is on to tweek to your desired setting, very uncomplicated. Don't get too far ahead of yourself, but for me using the same reel and rod for species of a different size and strength I will set my drag a little tighter....just a little. It's questionable whether it's necessary to back your drag down when not in use, I always do. I store my conventional reel in free spool and everything has been aok, it's a lever drag not a star. Quote
Super User .RM. Posted December 2, 2012 Super User Posted December 2, 2012 IMPO if you are setting drags at 1/4 of line test, your setting to light.... On an outing I will pre set all my rigs drags to 1/3 of line strength, and adjust by hand as needed...... One thing to remember is the OLD school style of adding drag by laying the thumb on the spool during fish fighting (feathering)..... Tight Lines!...... Quote
NBR Posted December 2, 2012 Posted December 2, 2012 For spinning gear I set the drag pretty tight and back reel when I need to give line. I started bass fishing long before there were any drags.If the fish pulled you had you thumb on the spooled line and just eased off enough to let the fish pull off some line. Today I set my baitcaster drags pretty light. If I need more pressure I put the thumb down a little harder. I think my thumb reacts better to changing conditions than any mechanical drag. Quote
11justin22 Posted December 2, 2012 Posted December 2, 2012 I set mine around half the weight of the line. Works for me...... Quote
dam0007 Posted December 3, 2012 Posted December 3, 2012 The sportsman thing to do is use 2-4# line for 2-4# fish. With that being said the guys above do the same as me, test the drag pulling by hand. Purpose is to prevent your line from breaking or rod in some cases. I've only relied on my drag to tire out fish in excess of 15#s. Or the odd moment of using ultra light tackle in brackish water fishing for trout and catching 20# striped bass. Lol Quote
Mikey Posted December 3, 2012 Posted December 3, 2012 I've been using baitcasters for 45 yrs., and I have always just cranked my drag down until I can just barely pull line off by hand. I have never had a problem using this method. Hootie my method as well. Quote
bazzelite19 Posted January 2, 2013 Posted January 2, 2013 I usually lock my drag down, but with crankbaits i may back the drag off some, maybe 1/2 theline rating. Bit for the most partvif a fish surges I just disengage the thumb bar. Quote
Bass Junkie Posted January 2, 2013 Posted January 2, 2013 Setting at 1/4 of the test with 10lb. mono will give you 2.5lb. of drag. I can't get a solid hookset with that, especially at long distances. I have a comfort zone mentally that I reach by simply adjusting the drag and pulling off the rod. I set it a little on the high side, and if a fish makes a hard run at the side of the boat, or I feel it needs line, I give it to them by thumbing the spool after putting the reel in free spool. It works for me, and its become second nature. Quote
redboat Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 I set mine around half the weight of the line. Works for me...... The logical reason for doing this is the difference in static versus kinetic friction; in other words, it takes more to GET the drag slipping than it does to KEEP it slipping. There's a good article on this site (can't get to articles today for some reason???) called something like, "How to supertune your baitcaster". Lotta good advice, but the author goes into detail about polishing drag washers, replacing plastic alternates with Carbonlite, and greasing; the point being, if you do all this the static and kinetic friction are very close. So if you're using 15 lb test and set the drag at 10 lb (moving or kinetic which is the only way you can actually measure it) the static - or "git 'er goin'" drag won't be so much higher that the line will break when it first starts slipping. This works the same for spinning reels and baitcasters. Good article, I suggest reading at least the drag portion. Quote
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