Ram Mount For Hds8?

[HookSetDon]

I have an hds 8 on its way, my boat is a nitro z6 with a 5 in dash, Does anyone have any suggestions as to what mount I should put in for the 8 ?

[Jig Man]

If you don't want it to move with boat bouncing on waves get the 2" ball. I have an 8 on the bow with one and it stays put.

Be advised that the bracket holes won't align with the gimble mount holes on your hds 8. Line up the two you want bolt it down, mark where you need the new ones and drill them.

[Fishing Rhino]

If the console is the same as the other models of Nitro, this bracket should serve you well. It's a Ram Swing Arm mount.

I used the ball mount on my first Nitro and it worked perfectly. But I could not mount it the same on my new one. Here's the first mount.

Either way, make sure the unit is well inside the rub rails to prevent it from hitting pilings or other dock components.

[HookSetDon]

that last pictures look exactly like my boat right down to the colour and original unit in the dash! Which one was that, the 111u? I was planning on mounting it on the top of the ledge you mounted it to rather than the side. Looks like it could get in the way when driving, how did you find it?

[Fishing Rhino]

I got the swing arm mount in the first pictures at West Marine. The mount in the last photo was purchased at Bass Pro. I preferred the mount in the last photo, but the console on the red boat does not have the surface that sweeps back. It is pretty much straight across the panel to the side of the boat.

The photo is deceiving. There is plenty of clearance between the wheel and the display. The advantage of the ball type of clamp is that you have more adjustments available to tilt it away from the steering wheel. The swing arm only pivots at the mounting bracket and the middle of the arm. But, the swing arm is stronger. Had no trouble with the unit moving on the ball mount even when the boat was pounding through a chop.

I got the swing arm because neither BPS, nor West Marine had the two inch ball mount and would not have them in time for the Road Trip to Guntersville. Initially, I would have preferred the ball mount, but now, having had both, it's toss a coin. They work equally well.

[HookSetDon]

Thanks Rhino, I think i'll end up doing the same thing you did in your last picture.

[Long Mike]

I have the same mount as Rhino shows in his last photo, but I'm I'm smarter than he is and have installed an HDS-8 instead of the Bird. I've never had a problem with it, and the amount of adjustment available is almost limitless.

[Fishing Rhino]

I have the same mount as Rhino shows in his last photo, but I'm I'm smarter than he is and have installed an HDS-8 instead of the Bird. I've never had a problem with it, and the amount of adjustment available is almost limitless.

Ahem. Let's not get into a peeing contest about smarts. Show your elders a little respect, and that's all I'm going to say about that.

[Long Mike]

I forgot that you were elderer than me. I shall cast no further barbs at you, oh Wrinkled One.

[HookSetDon]

Rhino when installing the mount did you reinforce with plywood? I had a look under the console and it looks like 1/4 - 3/8" of fiberglass only. I was thinking of putting a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and drill through and secure with the bolts and large washers.

Also how did you run your wire keeping it water tight through the fiberglass.

Thanks

[Fishing Rhino]

No plywood was needed. Though it is a 1/4 to 3/8 thick, it is plenty strong to support the 898.

One note. Using a standard twist drill will chip the gel coat. The instructions recommend starting with a small bit, then using progressively larger bits until you get the size hole needed for the fastenings. That is not foolproof. Buy a brad point drill bit, of the proper size, and go slowly with it. The brad point keeps the bit located, and the spurs on the outer edge of the bit will be less likely to "lift" on the gel coat. Most major hardware stores should carry them. I got mine at Home Depot.

Another option is to start with a small hole, then use a countersink to enlarge the outer edge of the hole enough so the next larger bit does not contact the gel coat. Alternate between the countersink and the larger drill bits.

Even the brad point drill is not perfect, but it is definitely less likely to chip the gel coat. As far as making the wiring watertight where it passes through the fiberglass, it isn't. It doesn't need to be, but there are parts that come with the unit to help the wiring direct water away from hole. It works like a "weatherhead" where power or phone lines enter a building. It's a small plastic cover which goes over the wiring to finish the install. It is solid on the top and sides with slots in the bottom for the wiring to pass through. When water gets on the cables, gravity pulls the water away from the hole. The top of the cover fits snugly against the side of the console and sheds spray and rain away from the hole.

Scroll up the thread, back to one of my prior posts, you can see the three wires that go to the console and the cover which will come with the mounting hardware provided. Photobucket is down, so I cannot access enlarged images at this time.

[Fishing Rhino]

One more suggestion. Where I attached the Ram Mount on the white boat is not quite flat. To make a neat install, I disassembled the mount so that I could attach the ball with the mounting flange without the rest of the assembly hanging on it. Once the holes were drilled, prior to bolting the flange to the console, I put a quarter inch bead of white silicone sealant just inside the outer edge. Then I ran the bolts through the mount, and hung it onto the console, and snugged down the bolts and nuts until the silicone just starte to ooze from beneath the flange on the mount. Using my finger, I removed the excess "ooze", leaving a small, concave radius between the mount and the surface. Then, it was left for a day or more, which allowed the silicone to set up. Once the silicone was completely set, the assembly was properly tightend down.

This results in a form fitting silicone "washer" that cannot be squeezed out.

[Fishing Rhino]

Here's the photo of the wiring, and the "covers" which came with the unit. I forgot that you are installing a Lowrance, but I would imagine they provide something similar with their unit.

You could put a small bead of silicone sealant on the edges of the top and sides to make it more water repellant, but I don't feel it's necessary.

[Long Mike]

Lowrance doesn't provide those types of covers, but the mounting base has a slot in it that the wiring leads into. It doesn't leave much room for water entry, so I didn't worry about sealing it with silicone.

[Glenn]

I have an 8" at the front, and a 10" at the console, both Ram mounts. Both work terrific. Both are Lowrance HDS2 units. I can take pictures of the installation if you wish.

Key thing with the Ram mounts is that you can never tighten them down too tight, meaning crank those suckers down hard! Otherwise they'll lay down flat while your going full out down the lake!

Oh, and this also means don't EVER put a protectant on the balls (like AmorAll, BTS, etc). That will cause them to lose their grip.

[HookSetDon]

Thanks everyone, Glen if you could I would appreciate that. Just curious about the path you picked for routing the wires since you are also using hds units.

[Glenn]

Here's the pics. The white "lowrance" thing is the weather module. I also showed the battery compartment - gotta keep those wires organized there too.