Snagged

[WRB]

Trying to get a different angle by moving higher up the bank and sideways, walking parallel up or down the bank was an option that I mentioned and a few others have noted and is good, but not always possible.

Keeping the worm or creature on the hook correctly doesn't help to prevent snagging, it helps getting a good hook set because the soft plastic doesn't slide down to fill the hook gap or cover the hook point with more plastic. Pegging the weight to the hooks creates a more streamline lure that will go through cover better than a sliding weight and will prevent some snags......however you will miss more strikes when casting a distance. A pegged rig is the same as a jig, the weight goes into the baases mouth, the bass feels the weight and rejects quickly like a jig. A free floating worm or creature is more life like, no weight in the basses mouth, so the bass will hold onto to it longer and that increases strike to hook up ratio. I have been fishing jigs a very long time successfully. I do not like to fish jigs from shore because of the uphill retrieve makes it difficult to feel strikes when working the jig uphill in cover, a finese C-rig or T-rig (with sliding sinker) works better for me when fishing from shore.

Fan casting by starting down the shoreline in front of you and working a fan pattern 180 degrees. Everyone snags bottom bumping lure, all you can do is try to work it free, easily at first before forcing it free.

Tom

PS; lure retrievers are not practice for shore anglers. Sliding lure knockers work good used from a boat when freeing lures with treble hooks, not very effective trying to free a jig or worm rig.

[ClackerBuzz]

did you consider going weightless? i rarely get t-rigs snagged...90% of time im fishing soft plastics weightless in less than 15ft of water so patients is needed more than lead weight.

[TNBassin']

I usually troll backwards and try to free mine up when I get on the side of the lure. Works nearly every time. I've also stopped T rigging worms and other baits in favor of the rage rig and haven't gotten hung up one time.

[Tuckahoe Joe]

did you consider going weightless? i rarely get t-rigs snagged...90% of time im fishing soft plastics weightless in less than 15ft of water so patients is needed more than lead weight.

I haven't really fished weightless that often. Usually only a senko. Ive only been at this a couple months and I started out using weights so I guess I've just been sticking with what I know. Maybe Ill try going weightless tomorrow and see if I notice a difference with snags.

[WRB]

I haven't really fished weightless that often. Usually only a senko. Ive only been at this a couple months and I started out using weights so I guess I've just been sticking with what I know. Maybe Ill try going weightless tomorrow and see if I notice a difference with snags.

Your goal should not be focused on not getting snagged, it should be on catching bass. A Senko, due to its heavy salt content doesn't float, it sinks as it's name indicates. Expecting the hook to sink a soft plastic without any additional weight added will,take more time then most anglers have and casting from shore will reduce your casting distance and if it's is windy will be ineffective. Trick worms and surface or near surface soft plastics work good when the bass are looking up for prey. It's now fall transitioning to winter, the bass are deeper and moving, not a good time to sit in one spot and fish very, very slow.

If you are going try weightless worm, try it, however get yourself some round split shot about the size of a small pea, no ears, and clamp 1 about 14" above the worm; this is called a split shot rig.

Good luck with your bass fishing. You have been given some good advice, try everything and you should find a presentation and have success.

Tom

[loodkop]

I fish jigs about 85% of the time and they are expensive at 4 bucks a pop. I switched over to 50# braid on my pitching rod and hardly loose a jig one now. I end up flatening out the hooks.

I also use braid but would never reuse a hook that has been bent open. The next cast might be my first and long awaited DD bass and I wouldn't take a chance on a hook that has been compromised.

[ClackerBuzz]

Your goal should not be focused on not getting snagged, it should be on catching bass. A Senko, due to its heavy salt content doesn't float, it sinks as it's name indicates. Expecting the hook to sink a soft plastic without any additional weight added will,take more time then most anglers have and casting from shore will reduce your casting distance and if it's is windy will be ineffective. Trick worms and surface or near surface soft plastics work good when the bass are looking up for prey. It's now fall transitioning to winter, the bass are deeper and moving, not a good time to sit in one spot and fish very, very slow.

If you are going try weightless worm, try it, however get yourself some round split shot about the size of a small pea, no ears, and clamp 1 about 14" above the worm; this is called a split shot rig.

Good luck with your bass fishing. You have been given some good advice, try everything and you should find a presentation and have success.

Tom

another great post for me to bookmark. you never disappoint Tom. thanks

[Loop_Dad]

A Senko, due to its heavy salt content doesn't float, it sinks as it's name indicates.

Tom, actually I am not sure if this is the case. (Of course, only Gary Yamamoto knows how he named it.) You are think in terms of "Sink-O", right? Senko in Japanese means incense stick. http://www.sakai-ipc.jp/en/local_industry/senko.html.

So if something is called like senko, that implies something long and straight.

Just a fun fact.

[shootermcbob]

I might add that when using the "bow and arrow" method, make sure to lift your rod tip while pulling (gently) on the line....The key is letting go of the line and pointing the rod tip at your lure. Think about it this way, you are trying to shoot slack line down to your lure, thus releasing your lure from the snag. I have also learned that it may take 8-10 times for this to work. I have used it to un-snag spinnerbaits, crankbaits, rattletraps, and many other types of lures.

I too fish from the bank. I encourage you to learn this method and work with it each time you get a snag. I have it to be very effective. It is not 100% effective, but it can work the majority of the time.

[Tuckahoe Joe]

another great post for me to bookmark. you never disappoint Tom. thanks

X's 2. All WRB's posts always seem so well thought out and contain lots of info. So if the bass are deeper and moving, where should I look for them on a lake thats a pretty much a constant 6 or 7 feet? Most of the cover on this lake is along the shoreline. Theres a semi-circle shaped dam at the lower end which empties into a circular pool before feeding into a creek. The creeks about 20-30 feet wide and no more than 2.5-3 feet deep. Theres also another little, I'd guess I'd call it kind of a channel, running between shoreline weeds feeding into another exit stream. Channels about 15 feet wide but deeper than the other creek. These are really the only spots avaialable for shore fishing. Ive been trying the same areas where I've caught some during the summer but lately I've been getting skunked a lot. Anyone have any suggestions?