Rod Or Reel, Where Should You Put Your Money?

[J Francho]

they will give you 10-20-30 years of use, and more with proper maint.

10+, maybe. 30 years? Hmmmm.... I've had some much higher end reels than that not last five years. Megabass Alphas Ito Ai comes to mind. After about 5 years, gearsets, pawls, and worm gears get replaced. The dog eared gear on on almost all Shimanos wears out after years of heavy use, especially if has a redundant anti-reverse pawl. On any of the Gen one Pure Fishing reels (Revos, Floogers), the clutch trip plate commonly wears out after a few years. I'm not going to mention the spool spacers that wear out after a couple years. To me they are line brake pads or tires on a car - wearable parts. These are easy fixes, though sometimes expensive, but considering that I've seen just as many much older reels without these issues tells me quality is not the same. If you're looking for a 30 year reel, then get a Calcutta B. you can even get a well used one. It'll serve you the duration.

[LgMouthGambler]

10+, maybe. 30 years? Hmmmm.... I've had some much higher end reels than that not last five years. Megabass Alphas Ito Ai comes to mind. After about 5 years, gearsets, pawls, and worm gears get replaced. The dog eared gear on on almost all Shimanos wears out after years of heavy use, especially if has a redundant anti-reverse pawl. On any of the Gen one Pure Fishing reels (Revos, Floogers), the clutch trip plate commonly wears out after a few years. I'm not going to mention the spool spacers that wear out after a couple years. To me they are line brake pads or tires on a car - wearable parts. These are easy fixes, though sometimes expensive, but considering that I've seen just as many much older reels without these issues tells me quality is not the same. If you're looking for a 30 year reel, then get a Calcutta B. you can even get a well used one. It'll serve you the duration.

I'll let you know in 30 years when Im still fishing my E series Citica, Curados, and Chronarchs.

[piscicidal]

Seriously? No offense but that about the worst amount of info I have ever heard for a newbie. You want a guy just starting out to spend over 800 dollars on one combo?

The very first baitcast reel I bought was a Shakesphere Axiom for ~$40 at Wal Mart. The thing was an absolute piece of garbage...backlash almost every cast. I bought a used Curado a couple days later and threw that Axiom straight in the junk drawer.

I don't think anyone who is serious about fishing should get a reel or rod that retails for less than $100...ESPECIALLY a newbie.

I have never regretted spending money on quality equipment. In the long run it pays to buy quality. Conversely, the few times I've bought inferior gear, I've got come to regret it. That Axiom was the worst $40 I think I've ever spent.

[piscicidal]

And for the record, I did not say a newbie should go spending $800 on a combo.

What I did say...$100-$300 for the rod and $100-$400 for the reel. I also said I favor the rod on vertical presentations and the reel on horizontonal (moving) presentations. I have $100 rods/reels (veritas/accurist) and I have $300 rods/reels (champion extreme, chronarch) yet not one of my combos is worth more than $450, because I allocate my resources according to the presentation.

[AndyTN]

The evolution of reel design has been towards the highly advertised form factor, features and weight reduction. Longevity is subject to so many variables. Design, materials, and production tolerances play an important role in the longevity of any item, but they are not the whole story. The spirit of the thread was about an initial cost outlay. For me, I would spend a reasonable (subjective) amount of money and get good with that before I made a real investment towards high end features.

And for the record I'm still fishing a low end 30+ year old Olympic Spark spinning reel that has all metal gears and drag and probably cost less then $15.00 new. It was all I could afford at the time. By today's standards, it's both heavy, and clunky, and has become one of my catfish reels.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

My foray into mid level reels hasnt lived up to my expectations or the hype of them (stradic,50E). I have lesser priced reels that perform just as well and with less issues over years of use. For this reason Im hesitant to purchase that level again when my $60-$70 reels are holding their own. It would take a good deal say 50% off for me to consider a $200 reel in the brands I have.

My better rods though $150-$340 have all been very good to excellent and continue to please me more the more I use them. I toss a President on my Elite without a second thought and the combo works great for me.

Sensitivity wise something that doesnt get mentioned hardly at all is the "Feel of the fight" once the fish is on. With a nicer more sensitive rod the play, the feel of the fish pulling, twisting, going up, down, rolling, shaking almost feeling the muscle of the fish is what I very much like of my better rods. I dont get this feedback with my lesser rods.

So I feel money towards a better rod is the way to go.

[retiredbosn]

With all the questions we get I wanted a thread to discuss in general terms where to put the money. For bottom presentations and verticle presentations I spend more on the rod, than on a rod that I use for reaction baits. My reels are all in the 100-200 range, I've never paid more than 159 and that was for my Curado E NIB, my rods are the same. When I started out I was dumb as a fence post when it came to stuff like this, and a little advice in the right direction was always helpful. Think I posted somewhere on here, pretty simple, quality reels will cost more than the rod generally. If you are on a budget use your best reel for reaction fishing where the reel is doing all the work, your best rod on techniques that need sensitivity.

[tracker01]

Ok, my thoughts. Does spending more money on a rod or reel allow me to catch more fish? Maybe, but not too sure about that. Now, does spending more money increase the fun factor of fishing for me? Absolutely 900%. I fish mainly spinning gear and only have two bait casters, one deep crank bait rod and the other a GLoomis mbr783 glx with a Core50mg7 mounted on it. Allot of bucks in that glx and core, but I got them on line in classified sections. Back to my point. That one glx/core handles a bunch of techniques, small cranks, t-rigs, c-rigs, small jigs, etc. It is a light outfit and when I go fishing I want to enjoy my equipment and maybe, just maybe catch a few fish. So where would I put my money? Even -up. That being said, I do not want an anchor of a reel mounted on a light stick. That would definitely take off some" fun factor" points. I am retired and at one time it was the number of fish, now it's the number of times I get out to fish.

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[QUIENYO]

This question needs to be split between the spinning set-up and bait-casting set-up. I know a few responses have already brought this up, but most vertical presentations in open water come from a spinning set-up. I just bought a relatively inexpensive President reel and put it onto a cheaper rod. I know that when the Black Friday sales come around, the first thing I'm going to purchase is a quality rod to use with my President. So for me, with a spinning set-up, I think 1/3 to the reel and 2/3 to the rod makes sense if it is being used for vertical presentations.

My bait-casting gear is hard to figure, but I would guess it is opposite of the spinning set-up. Its hard to figure since my reels were all new purchases (Abu 5503, 51E and STX) and every rod they rest on was bought used for significantly less money. I figure tossing jigs in slop requires a quality reel and a stout rod/broomstick. Same with the re-action baits.

I will say that those of us that are stunned by the purchase price of the gear that others buy; we need to get over it. Cost is a relative perspective. Yep, I'm not exactly rolling in it, but if I was more financially secure I would not bat an eye at dropping whatever I wanted on my combos, it's my money. If I was a newbie (I am) and dropped a grand on a Stella and a custom stick (i didn't), what difference would that make to anyone? Just sayin, my $.02

[SirSnookalot]

If I was a newbie (I am) and dropped a grand on a Stella and a custom stick (i didn't), what difference would that make to anyone? Just sayin, my $.02

It really doesn't make a difference, it's ones own justification for the expense. To me a $1000 reel and $500 rod is like wearing plus 4's on the golf course when you can't break a 100. When a person with a $100 combo is out catching you, or a golfer with a set of 30 year old clubs is driving 40 yds further, you start realizing that you can't buy swing or a fish.

[K_Mac]

SirSnook you make a good point. One thing to consider though is that if the guy with the 30 year old driver is crushing the drive, how much better could he do with a new one? Being good does not depend on equipment, BUT it does matter IMO.

[Quarry Man]

On 10/2/2012 at 8:33 AM, retiredbosn said:

All of the posts so far are from experienced anglers who know that the rod is an important part of the equation. Some may argue the most important. And for the most part are in agreement, the reel will cost more, just don't spend all the budget on it and handicap yourself with a crappy rod.

 

When I first started fishing, i thought i needed a nice rod, not reel. when unexperienced anglers ask you "what rod is that" they usually mean reel too, but don't realize that they are costly as well. I bought that first spinning combo for 150$ it was a 100$ rod and 50$ reel.

 

Now, I believe everyone needs at least one good setup. 1 really good spinning setup. Mine is 50/50 both 230-250$s each. I also think that people should get a rod at least 100$. Reels have more parts and are more costly. casting reels should be around 100-150 as a minimum. More sensitive rods for techniques like dragging that need it.

[3crows]

I do believe you get what you pay for and higher end equipment does have tangible benefits but that is not to say that there is not value in many ranges of equipment. I have no interest, that said, in some of the low end junk I see around, some of which are knock offs of real companies genuine products. 

 

In 1973 I bought an Abu Garcia 5500C, it cost $54.00 and in today's dollars that is $297.00. I still use the reel though I have rebuilt it several times and upgraded it as well. The original Lew's Speed Stick I mounted it on is also entirely useable today though it is retired.

 

Money spent on good tools, and in this case the tools are fishing gear, is never miss-spent if you get your use and enjoyment out of them and only you can decide when that is crossed.

[Falkus]

I tend to go 3/5 of the Rod and 2/5 on the Reel. 

 

Rod/Reel Example:  

G Loomis NRX 803C JWR with Shimano Core50MG7

Dobyns Chapmion 734C with SHimano CoreMG7

St. Croix Mojo Bass with Curado 70 

[scaleface]

Haha . My most expensive reel is on an inexpensive rod. What can I say , they just work  well together .

[d-camarena]

Most of my combos are $80 rods paired to $100 reels. I have never felt ive needed more and i do really good in local tourneys. Ive had more expensive setups but never felt an advantage do i settled on the $100 mark.

[Quarry Man]

If you're on a budget, don't use a high end reel, EVER! you will regret that choice for a while. or should i say your bank account will.

(ask me)

[Big Bait Fishing]

all the rods i use are $350 and up customs , though all my reels but two ( Revo Toro 51 & Revo ALX ) are $200 or less . as most others have said , you need the action , power , and sensitivity in the rod , that's were you get what you pay for . as long as you get a good quality reel that performs to your expectations , you should be good without spending a lot .