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Posted

What I don't understand is how you tell weeds from rocks and so on and so fourth and also since the mounting on the transducer is a suction cup it reall doesn't help at all and I's quite the pain in the ass

Posted

What I don't understand is how you tell weeds from rocks and so on and so fourth and also since the mounting on the transducer is a suction cup it really doesn't help at all and I's quite the pain in the ass

I think the best way I can describe the difference is weeds are usually more spiky, rising off the bottom in clumps, rocks give a solid return and look like bumps on the bottom. In my home waters I deal mostly with weeds and muck; I'm looking for transitions between muck and sand & gravel bottoms, or muck and hard clay bottoms. I don't see much in the way of rock formations, but we do have some "ballast" rock piles from old ships that dumped their ballast overboard while taking on cargo. At times, I've found what I thought was a large rock, but they turn out to be old engines left behind after the wood boat rotted away.

Look for transitions of any kind.

As for the suction cup, get red of it and opt for a more stable mounting; pull the cup off and use the rest of the bracket to mount to something, a board if you have to, clamp that to the transom of the boat. That's how I started with my first flasher, I mounted the transducer to a 1X3 and clamped it to the transom of my Jon-boat with two "C" clamps.

  • Super User
Posted

Eagle makes accessories like a transducer mounting kit for about $15. Your unit I'd good for what you need, however you must want to use it. All I have heard so far from you is negative replies regarding your sonar unit.

There is an old saying; you can lead a horse to water, but can't make it drink.

It's true bass can be caught without electronics and as a few have noted Buck Perry didn't have electronics, but I can garrantee if was fishing today he would.

Most of your questions regarding using a sonar unit have been asked by other anglers new to using sonar, you are not alone. My recommendation was to educate yourself and you should do that. Try the sonar forums, buy the book suggested, check out Bruce Sampson's video's, lots of resources available.

You could post a map of your lake and get several inputs where to catch bass, that would narrow down your choices where to look and where not. At the end of the day, it's up to you.

Tom

Posted

I started with the Hummingbird Flasher units. I would look at the red bars and then throw a deep diving crankbait through the spot and drag up the species of weeds and learned to tell the difference from eel grass, hydrilla, pepper grass itc. Also hard bottom verses mud.

When I went to the new ones that have screens I did the same thing so I could identifiy stuff. Also, read the manual, it probable has examples of what the screen will look like.

(I loved the old flasher units, Hummingbird and to drag me kicking and screaming into the new age!)

Posted

I just really wanna learn how to use the d**n thing haha

  • Super User
Posted

Use your eyes and experience.

Just look for places along the shore that would hold bass.

Watch where other bass fishermen fish off the bank as they probably are fishing a brushpile, hump, rock bed, stumps, etc. out from the shoreline.

Mouths of creeks.

Backs of creeks.

Along the creeks' shoreline.

Any wood you see; any places where two types of grass meet; rocks; rocks and grass; points; lilly pads, hydrilla and other grasses; piers; docks; moored boats; boat houses; rip rap; bulkheads; marinas; bridges; and the list goes on and on.

LOOK FOR PLACES THAT SHOULD HOLD BASS. There is no guarantee that a bass will be there but you have to give it a shot.

Remember, structure may not hold a bass; but you will always find bass around struture.

Mark you maps and keep the places you catch those green monsters a secret.

  • Super User
Posted

I started with the Hummingbird Flasher units. I would look at the red bars and then throw a deep diving crankbait through the spot and drag up the species of weeds and learned to tell the difference from eel grass, hydrilla, pepper grass itc. Also hard bottom verses mud.

When I went to the new ones that have screens I did the same thing so I could identifiy stuff. Also, read the manual, it probable has examples of what the screen will look like.

(I loved the old flasher units, Hummingbird and to drag me kicking and screaming into the new age!)

The right 1/2" vertical edge of your some screen is a real time flasher, it' not the circular shape you were used to looking at!

Tom

  • Super User
Posted

I think Sam is right on. I never in my life used for electronics for bass, just worked the drop offs, those were in the days of no motor on my rowboat. I don't bass fish at all from boat anymore, but I'm always watching the water and birds for where the fish may be.

Posted

Traveler thanks for the link.I used to have Buck Perry's book spoonplugging but have since lost it I still have my spoonplugs though.

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