Question For Reloaders

[clayton86]

I'm starting to stock up on some reloading equipment so I can start when i get back but I have a question on dies. I'm gonna be reloading .243 and .357Maximum for sure then .17 hornet or Remington shortly after. Now I have the dies set for the 357 already but my question comes when looking at the .17 and .243 dies the .243 comes in a 3 die set that has the neck sizer included but the 17 has a 2 die set with no neck sizer then a 2 die set with the neck sizer and bullet seater while the other one is a sizer die and seater die. Now for the 17 do I need both sets of dies or are they the same thing is the "sizer" die in the one set the same as a neck sizer or is it referring to a full length sizer. I'm looking at the Lee sets as its a lee press I have. I'v never reloaded its something I'm picking up for my self and to get some loads worked up for my father in laws TC Contender in .357 Max since you cant buy factory ammo for it.

[Gatorbassman]

I've been reloading with my dad since I could sit on the stool and help. In fact I just finished up 100 rounds of .308 yesterday. And picking up the stuff to start doing 243 next week. I've never had a need for the three die sets. The two die set has always worked well. If you are going to shoot the rounds out of more than one gun you will need the neck sizer. In fact you may find that you need to resize to entire casing but that is very rare. I'm no expert by any means. I load what I need and keep it simple.

[clayton86]

well I only have 1 .243 I'm mostly just looking to save money on factory ammo I have all Hornady brass for the .243 all fired from my rifle 120 pieces of brass all Hornady. For right now I will just be making 1 round I don't want to go crazy probably just remake my own 58gr superformance ammo. The 357max my FIL has all his old load data from his reloads hes just to lazy to do it so I told him I would do it so he can keep hunting with it because every fall we here the sob story of how he misses his 357max ammo and how he has to use regular mag ammo because he cant find max any where.

[Hi Salenity]

Actually the neck sizer die only resizes the neck. A neck die will only work for with brass shot from the gun it was fired from. This means the brass has expanded to the chamber of a particular rifle. ammo sized with a neck die only sizes the neck back down to hold the bullet in the brass. since the brass doesn't have to expand to fit the chamber the neck sized ammo can be more accurate.

FYI, you will need to full length size anything that will be shot through a semi auto or the tolerances will be too tight to cycle reliably...

I am not sure I fully answered your question, If the "sizer die" doesn't say neck on it it will size the entire case including the neck.

Pistol cases don't taper and won't need to be neck sized but some will have a 3 die set that includes a crimp die but thats a whole other can of worms.

[Hi Salenity]

_I'd spend a few extra bucks and get RCBS or Redding dies and scales. Trust me I started out with the Lee stuff.

[rockchalk06]

Clayton, I will drop some info later today. On my phone so it will take forever to type.

[clayton86]

cool thanks guys I'v been contemplating just getting a new kit the stuff I have is my F-I-Ls old stuff its all there minus a powder scale. Iv been thinking bout just getting a new kit that's more up to date like with a quick change bushing since I will be doing more calibers as I buy more rifles and pistols eventually. I like the RCBS presses there decently priced Lee is the cheapest. I have calipers also from my days building engines. I have no semi auto's iv been anti semi auto for a while though I want to pick up a ar or ak but ammo is cheap enough I wouldn't reload for them its that .243 at $25 a box of 20 that lasts an hour on a good day of ground hog blasting that's killing me and the .17 i have my eyes on isn't any better.

[rockchalk06]

I'm starting to stock up on some reloading equipment so I can start when i get back but I have a question on dies. I'm gonna be reloading .243 and .357Maximum for sure then .17 hornet or Remington shortly after. Now I have the dies set for the 357 already but my question comes when looking at the .17 and .243 dies the .243 comes in a 3 die set that has the neck sizer included but the 17 has a 2 die set with no neck sizer then a 2 die set with the neck sizer and bullet seater while the other one is a sizer die and seater die. Now for the 17 do I need both sets of dies or are they the same thing is the "sizer" die in the one set the same as a neck sizer or is it referring to a full length sizer. I'm looking at the Lee sets as its a lee press I have. I'v never reloaded its something I'm picking up for my self and to get some loads worked up for my father in laws TC Contender in .357 Max since you cant buy factory ammo for it.

When comes to dies, its like reels. Everyone has their favorite but all will get the job done. I prefer Dillon for handgun and Hornady for rifle.

There are 3 basic rifle dies. The Full Length Sizing/depriming die, neck sizer only die and bullet seating dies. Full length dies must be used with any rifle cartridge that is fired from an auto loader or lever gun, ammo that is loaded from once fired brass from another weapon and brand new brass. Almost every reloader uses full length sizing dies. It gets the brass back down to factory specs.

Neck sizing dies are for experienced reloaders only. It only resizes the neck of the case. You can only use brass fired from your weapon and your weapon only. This is what is called fire forming the brass. Basically what this does is swells the brass to your specific chamber allowing the ammo to be loaded and no play inside the chamber at all will happen. Honestly, I would wait until you get some rounds under your belt before attempting to neck size.

You will also need a good case trimmer to trim the cases after each loading. I recommend the Lee Precision hand trimmer that uses the case length gauges.

http://leeprecision.com/case-condtioning-combo.html and

http://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/case-trimming-tools/case-length-gauge-holder/

You can put the chuck into your drill and they make the case length gauges for every caliber. Plus they are cheap and last for ever.

When it comes to a powder measures, stay away from the cheap scoop type measures. Get a good scale or a quality powder meaure. The tube types from RCBS, Hornady and Lyman are good ones. Lee's suck. As for scales, a digital scale is the best, but a good balance beam scale will last a long time.

As for presses, for progressive, I prefer Dillon Precision. They set the standard on everything reloading. If your going to get a Single Stage press I recommend the Hornady Lock n Load. Its like 150 bucks and you can buy the lock n load bushings for each die. You dont have to screw and un screw each and every die.

http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-Classic-Loader/

Hope this helps some. Shoot me a PM or email if you have any other questions

[clayton86]

thanks for all the info I'v been looking on midways site and Natchez I'v done alot of business with both stores in the past I like the sounds of the Hornady Lock-N-Load kit (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/749997/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-kit) looks like all I would need to buy is dies and a case trimmer correct? It also comes with 500 free bullets which is a nice bonus. I was also liking the RCBS kit because you can upgrade it to a progressive press if needed. I don't know if I would ever need the out put of a Progressive all my rifles are bolt guns and the .357max is my father in laws its a single shot TC contender pistol. He has everything for the pistol but it has the scoop type powder measures. He also has a set of dies that you don't put in a press you do it all by hand and use a hammer its a pretty cool concept I played around with it just loading some regular 357 mag ammo with no charge.

Like I said I have a bit of brass all fired from my rifle its like 6 boxes of Hornady brass and I think I have 1 box of Remington brass also fired from my rifle. Do I need a tumbler or anything for the brass really or just clean up the pockets and go. I'm not looking for "match" results as long as I can repeat factory ammo which already shoots good out of my rifle the only difference would be the moly the factory ammo I shoot is moly coated idk if I wanna mess with coating all my bullets might just run them like 99% of the ammo out there I don't see a real need for the moly in my case. When I get a better rifle or better at reloading and a good grasp on it then I will worry bout fine tuning a sweet load.

[rockchalk06]

The only time I ran rifle off a progressive was when loading SHTF 556 and 308 ammo. Other than that, all my rifle was loaded off the single stage. It's more accurate and you can better control the variables. The lock n load will speed things way up with the single stage process.

Ya all you will need is dies and a case trimmer with that kit. The Lee case trimmers are cheap.

You don't absoutley need to clean the cases everytime but its recommended. Mainly to get all the oil and dirt off your brass. A good tumbler is a god send when loading though. Several companies make them, I recommend a vibratory tumbler over a rotary one. They are easier to use. Dillon Precision makes a killer tumbler called the CV500.

As for moly coating your bullets, I moly every bullet. It cuts wayyyyyyy down on fouling, cleaning and cuts way down on friction which will keep your barrel cooler. I have proven it works when using an auto loader. I use Lyman moly powder.

I take a large pill bottle and peel the label off. Cut apart 2 steel shot shotgun shells and dump the pellets into the bottle. Pour about 1/2 teaspoon of powder in the bottle. Cap and throw into the tumbler for a few hours. All bullets coated evenly. Dump onto a rag and remove pellets. I take the bullets and dump them in a sock and rub then around to help remove the excess moly.

Moly is kinda a pain to use. It's not 100% needed but I prefer it.

[clayton86]

I shoot moly now but never compared it to non moly bullets out of the .243. even for shooting moly now my barrel gets HOT by the time i fire my 5th round out of it you cant touch the barrel but I'm shooting 58gr superformance which is a fast round for my sporter .243 barrel. I was looking up some loads and bullets today i may move up to likr 75-90gr vmax or like bullets though I love the splat you get with them 58gr on farm land vermin id post pics but there kinda graphic ground hogs with holes the size of a orange punched threw them if not just strings of blood and guts.

[rockchalk06]

How thick is the barrel? Anything moving that fast with that light of a bullet needs a d**n pilot on it lol.

Where you see the major difference is with a bull barrel.

I love the maximum carnage on pdogs too. I use a bit heavier bullet but I go with a V-max bullet for the splat

[clayton86]

I'm not sure the barrel Dia. its a Marlin XS7 .243 before the Remington merger. Im picking up a .17 def that will def be a bull barrel and iv been eye balling a X7VH 308 which is also a heavy bull barrel I will be loading for them as well but the 308 wont be for some time the 17 I'm hoping to have ordered before Christmas. My nephew has mentioned reloading for his .223 but i told him its not worth it because his cheap silver bear at $5 a box is a tack driver out of his rifle so what if it doesn't make mist like mine does lol.

[Hi Salenity]

I've herd some bad things about molly bullets pitting barrel? You may want to look into that.

As far as a press goes I have 3 The Lee that came with my kit and 2 Rock Chuckers. If you have semimi auto pistol you will want progressiveve press. You wont "have" to have one (don'tnt) but It'd be nice for pistol ammo.

I haven't used the Hornady press but it looks nice. On my dies I use the lock rings with allen screws on them so once the die is screwed into the press it's ready to go. That makes the set up pretty easy.

As far as cleaning the cases My Uncle was a Benchrest shooter & he almost never cleaned the cases? Me on the other hand, I can't honestly remember a case I didn't clean.

Hey rockchalk06, What do you use to lube your cases? I use the spray on stuff.

[rockchalk06]

I use Hornady One Shot on handgun and Dillon case lube on rifle. The Dillon seems a bit greesier (is that a word) but makes it smoother.

[clayton86]

molly will pit in high moisture environment from what I have read in the past I keep a few silica packs from all the d**n shoes my wife and kids go threw in with my guns