thinkingredneck Posted March 19, 2019 Posted March 19, 2019 I appreciate this extensive discussion. I learned a lot. I think it should be pinned. Quote
Super User JustJames Posted April 18, 2019 Super User Posted April 18, 2019 Thank you Tom. I used your technique and caught a bass today. I actually tried your technique a few time already especially at night when fishing from dock and in my kayak. Today while I was reeling my jig passed rock and mud while pointing my rod tip parallel to water and line on my finger, all the sudden the line went slack I set hook and result in a nice 2-3 lber. 4 1 Quote
Global Moderator 12poundbass Posted June 13, 2019 Global Moderator Posted June 13, 2019 Wow great info here, thanks @WRB! 1 Quote
txchaser Posted January 6, 2021 Posted January 6, 2021 Some really good information in here and IMO should be pinned. 1 Quote
MGF Posted January 6, 2021 Posted January 6, 2021 On 9/15/2012 at 2:14 PM, WRB said: I use a CPS or Hitchhiker spring and attached a ***/4 to 2" split tail section of finesse worm and insert the jig hook point into the crouch of the razor cut split in the worm tail to cover the hook point to help prevent snagging when fishing light cover or brush. I'm not clear on what you're doing with the worm...Is it just a piece of plastic over the hook point? Thanks in advance. Quote
garroyo130 Posted December 5, 2022 Posted December 5, 2022 Bringing this one back from the dead to see if we have any updated hair jig recommendations for fishing this technique over rock (since images are not displaying any longer). Quote
Derek1 Posted December 6, 2022 Posted December 6, 2022 Just ran into this the first time myself. Great read. Thanks for putting the time in to share this. Along with everything else. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted December 6, 2022 Super User Posted December 6, 2022 https://www.northstarbaits.com/hairjigs.html https://www.acmetackle.com/collections/uncle-josh-1 North Star Hairy Jig, 3/8 oz football head, black/ Uncle Josh #11 Black or Blue. Quote
Jonas Staggs Posted December 7, 2022 Posted December 7, 2022 On 9/15/2012 at 11:14 AM, WRB said: I wrote a horizontal jigging artical for In-Fisherman magazine over 17 years ago, Jan 1995. This presentation was considered old back then! horizontal jigging is another term for casting a jig and retrieving back along the bottom structure and works best in deep structured lakes during seasonal periods where bass and prey are migrating; pre spawn and fall transition. The presentation relies on a jig designed to achieve a hook set when the line angle is less than a 45 degree angle down in the water, when the jig is more verticle or more than a 45 degree angle like straight down or 90 degrees you are fishing vertical and close to the bass; pitching and flipping presentations. My average cast is about 90 feet or 30 yards out to 120 feet or 40 yards, rarely longer. I designed a modified football head that more resembles a viper snake head shape and use 5/0 Gamakatsu #114 forged hook; very strong and extremely shape, the hook point about ***/4" behind the jig head, this is a critical factor to achieve hook set sets. I don't use a traditional weed guard, I use a CPS or Hitchhiker spring and attached a ***/4 to 2" split tail section of finesse worm and insert the jig hook point into the crouch of the razor cut split in the worm tail to cover the hook point to help prevent snagging when fishing light cover or brush. A standard football head will work, but tend to hang up more often in broken rock. There is a new jig coming out called a Nu Jig that has a unique double weed guard and head shape that works very well without adding the finesse worm to cover the hook point and slides through rocky structure very well. The key to my success is the tackle and how I hold the rod, the line and position the rod during the retrieve. The rods should be at least 6'6" fast action 4 to 5 power light weight sensitive jig/worm rod. My rods are custom 4 and 5 power, 6'10" Hydra rods made by ALX, very similar to Loomis NRX rods, any good rod will do. Any good quality casting reel like Ardent 1100, the older Shimano Curado and Lewis 's pro series reels are all good, in 6.3 to 1 ratio. Line is another personal choice; I like Sunline Shooter 14 lb, it's pricey and also use P-Line FluroClear 12 lb, about the same diameter and good performance at 1/4 the price. My jig is a custom 7/16 oz, a good quality 1/2 oz football head like Cody's Phenix jig or the Nu jig would be good. I tie my own custom buck tail hair jigs in 3 color combinations; black back, purple middle and rust brown belly and call this anytime anywhere. The second is rust brown back, green center and brown belly and call,this spring craw. Trilers are pork died 1 of the colors in the jig: usually rust brown or purple. At night or low light the trailer is usually black or purple. I make a long cast and let the jig fall on a controlled slack line while watching the V the line makes in the water. When the jig hits bottom you will see the line jump, see and feel the jig hit bottom. I hold the rod in front of the reel, with the line over my index finger, the rod pointed at the jig, rod tip near to parallel with the water surface. The retrieve is very simple, I just turn the reel handle 1 to 3 turns depending on the bottom slope contour; I want the jig to jump forward about 6" to 12", and let it come to a stop then without raising the rod tip, I watch and feel the line for any indication of a strike; the line moving to one side, a thump, a bump, a tick or nothing no feed back like the jig was cut off. My reaction to any of the above is quickly to turn the reel handle serveral turns to tighten up the line and if I believe a bass has the jig, then I keep reeling until the line is tight and sweep the rod back hard. If it's not strike, just lower the rod back down and continue the retrieve. if you encounter a obstickle like rocks or wood limb, then gently raise the rod tip to lift the jig over the obstickle and continue the stop and go retrieve: turn the reel handle, let the jig fall and stop and repeat the retrieve . This sounds simple and it is, but you must concentrate on every cast, the bass that eat a jig cast a long distance don't know you are there and they often big bass. You can substitute soft plastic for,the pork trailers and appeal to a wider range of bass sizes, pork seems to appeal to bigger bass. The depth I fish depends on the thermocline, but rarely deeper than 35', usually between 3' to 25' . Good luck. Tom Have you ever considered writing a book or creating a YouTube? You are extremely knowledgeable Quote
Super User WRB Posted December 7, 2022 Author Super User Posted December 7, 2022 No, probably enough on this site. Tom 1 Quote
Jonas Staggs Posted December 7, 2022 Posted December 7, 2022 the hook point about ***/4" behind the jig head, this is a critical factor to achieve hook set sets. I don't use a traditional weed guard, I use a CPS or Hitchhiker spring and attached a ***/4 to 2" split tail section of finesse. What do you mean with this? I'm confused by this ***/4 And also what a cps or hitchhiker spring is? @WRB Quote
garroyo130 Posted December 7, 2022 Posted December 7, 2022 one and three quarters inch behind is my guess a keeper spring 1 Quote
Jonas Staggs Posted December 7, 2022 Posted December 7, 2022 1 hour ago, garroyo130 said: one and three quarters inch behind is my guess a keeper spring Thanks, I know those as screw locks. Basically the idea, is use a screw lock and a short piece of worm to make it weedless is how I am interpreting it. Quote
Super User WRB Posted December 7, 2022 Author Super User Posted December 7, 2022 When this post was active anything 13 or 3/ was changed to ***. The Owner CPS spring doesn’t clip on the hook eye easily like TruTurn Hitchhicker spring does. Tom Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.