Full Cork Grip To Split Grip

[KevO]

I have a BCFR 954 GLX flippin stick i would like to change to split grip and remove the fore grip. What would I need to do this? Though with such an expensive rod I think it would be best for a professional to do it. How much would it cost for the conversion?

[islandbass]

Wow. That's a lot of work, labor intensive to say the least. If possible it might be easier if you could find the blank and build from the ground up.

I have converted full to split but I wouldn't in my wildest wishes do that on a GLX. You can start by tracing out where you want to splits to end up. I then used a hobby knife and pliers to remove the unwanted cork. I proceeded to remove the remaining epoxy with sand paper before I learned that there might be a way to remove the eopxy chemicially or with heat. Any method you choose will not be an easy one. Too much heat to soften the epoxy (this was told to me theoretically) could damage the blank and so could sand paper.

Maybe some chemists out there could recommend a liquid that could safely remove the epoxy without harming the blank.

I know DVT builds rods and others here too so perhaps they can provide more insight. The way I removed the cork, I would NOT do to a GLX.

May I ask why you want to go split grip?

This is a low end $29 Rapala Rod. I'd shudder at doing this to a GLX, lol.

Other than a change in aethestics, there is, IMHO no tactical advantage to choosing split grip or full grip. It's all preference. I happen to like both. I don't know how much it would cost to answer question, but I imagine it's not going to be cheap. Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the price of your GLX as a best guess. Mine was free ninety-nine, but I did pay a price in elbow grease, lol.

[KevO]

I'm 100% positive I'm not going to do this myself LOL. I think if I removed the foregrip and made it into a split grip it would lighten the rod up a little bit. I am worried that doing that would unbalance the rod though. It's a sweet stick and I don't want to mess it up. I appreciate your insight, it will probably never happen, just something I have thought about doing.

[Megastink]

I once took a butter knife and my teeth to a St. Croix Triumph. True story...

[Crookedneck]

It can be done. Islandbass actually did a good job cleaning up the blank, but he is correct about using heat and sandpaper you run the risk of damage to the blank.

I would recommend removing the entire grip. Then turning new grips to your liking. Then installing both the rear grip and fighting butt from the rear. This will allow for a better finish on the cork. The appearance of the exposed blank portion may not be the greatest. But, an experienced, skilled builder will be able to make it look good.

The weight savings is probably not going to make a very big difference. A few grams at best, and it probably won't be very noticable. If you are going for fit - function and look then I say go for it.

Cost depends on who you send it too. Prior to doing it, tell them what you want and have them give you options.

Good luck

[Bassin_0502]

Personal opinion....A professional builder is probably going to tell you

1) Don't do it

2) If you insist, then consider rebuilding the whole rod, new guides and all.

3) Approach like Islandbass (nice job!) and be super careful.

As far as chemical/solvent cleanup, don't use anything stronger than denatured alcohol on the blank. The graphite resin prepregs that modern rods are made from use epoxies as well, something strong enough to clean up the two part handle adhesive epoxies will surely hurt the blank (and void the warranty). Same with heat guns to soften the epoxy, it can just as easily soften the prepreg resins. A little bit of heat and slow careful manual cleaning with something like the edge of a popsicle stick or credit card is the safest way to do this. This isn't a $29 blank after all!

Mounting handle components and reel seats from the butt end is a compromise. The taper is bassackwards from how they are usually mounted. Handles are typically fitted by reaming the id to fit as you slide the handle down from the tip towards the butt. The inside of the handle is then actually tapered to fit the 'line' of the blank. If you must install from the butt, then the 'top' of the handle must be big enough to fit over the butt of the blank; once you put it in position, the fore part of the handle will have a larger id than the blank's od. This gap can be hidden and managed, but it's just more work ($'s). May well be faster/easier/cheaper to remove all the guides and current handle, clean up the blank, and rebuild.

[OkobojiEagle]

First... you need to decide if it is appearance or function you are trying to improve.

Second... I don't believe you will improve this rod's function with these alterations. Someday when you're wrestling a 9lb bass from a heavy weed bed you will appreciate all of that cork to hang on to.

oe

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

A split grip conversion is certainly doable but if the goal is to reduce weight by any meaningful amount I recommend against it especially on a higher end rod. The butt section isn't exposed to any real stress but the style change may reduce potential resale value if that's even a concern. No need to turn new grips unless you want to get fancy with linlays etc. The extra work to fit them from the butt outweighs the benefit otherwise. If you just want something semi-custom and one-off, there's no harm in that. Functionally, split grips were designed for two handed casting by consistently placing the back hand on the butt grip which was a little larger than on some current designs. On a new build a split grip can save sone money since cork is getting expensive, upward of $2.50/inch plus labor.

[cueball]

Depends on your motivation. If you are looking to alter this rod to save money over buying a different rod, I would suggest selling your rod as is and having either a custom rod built or buy an off the shelf rod you like. I think with the money you get from selling the rod and money you save from skipping the alteration, you will be money ahead with a new rod.

I am only an amateur builder, but I would consider the rebuild you are considering a much bigger task than building from scratch.

[Jigfishn10]

There's no doubt about it, what islandbass mentions is all true. Here's mine:

I hated the grip and this wasn't a great rod, but I'm happy with it and it feels more comfortable. May I suggest just taking some sand paper and molding the grip to your hand? Instead of starting out with a course grit, maybe a finer grit to get the hang of it? Just a suggestion?

BTW IB: Outta the park with that split grip! Awesome job Bud!

[KevO]

Thanks for all the advice. I had forgotten I even posted this. Sounds like the risk isnt worth the reward so I will skip this idea.

[draggin]

who would i contact about rebuilding a rod, think i may try something like this.

[Bassin_0502]

who would i contact about rebuilding a rod, think i may try something like this.

Are you looking for someone to rebuild a rod for you? or are you interested in learning how to do t yourself?

There are several rod building forums; if you're looking for a pro, then post there along with your location. If you want to do it yourself, I suggest starting with a 1 1/2 day course offered by Mudhole. They travel around the country offering these classes. For about $150, you get all the equipment and supplies you need to get started and you leave on the second day with a 6'6" basic spinning rod that you built yourself. Hobby is addicting however. Here are a couple of links:

http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

http://forums.mudhole.com/index.php?showforum=2

http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/

http://www.mudhole.com/

[draggin]

thanks bassin, but i am looking to have a rod completly redone, its a berkley amp rod with a broken reel seat.

[Bassin_0502]

thanks bassin, but i am looking to have a rod completly redone, its a berkley amp rod with a broken reel seat.

If that's the case, I'd post a question on the rodbuilding.org link above. That forum has the most activity; be sure to say where you're from as the guys there are all around the world. That group is mostly pro's that build and repair rods for a living. Good luck.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

thanks bassin, but i am looking to have a rod completly redone, its a berkley amp rod with a broken reel seat.

The cost to repair an AMP rod will likely exceed replacement cost. Even sliding a repalcement seat on from the butt end is about $20 in labor plus materials and you wouldn't get the window seat. Those are fit to the blank and are slid on from the tip which would require stripping the whole rod of the guides and rewrapping which is closer to a $100 job. I could build a budget custom from scratch for a few bucks more.