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Posted

I'm a fifteen year old male from northern Wisconsin.

I've been fishing hardcore for 2 years now, mainly bass and walleye. Everything I know about fishing has come from reading books, internet, and self experience. Never was taught by my father or grandpa or male figure. So here I am today with a question for someone with lots of knowledge.

I use a 2 spinning outfits and one baitcasting outfit while fishing; all which spooled with 8-10lb mono, because of price and lack of knowledge of other lines. I understand the stretch of mono, sinking of fluro, and sensitivity of fluro. I'm now willing to spend the extra money on new lines for better results but have no clue what is the most benificial. I tend to use lots of crankbaits,jerkbaits, and wacky rigged 5 inch worms.. I am very capable of tying a double uni knot to make a leader or just tie lines together for a backing but I have no clue when to use it and which what other kind of line? I've heard lots about how you cant use braided line completely because it'll dig into the spool or slip? What do I use for a backing and how much? I dont have a lot of money flow so cheaper ways of spooling but most effective would be the preferd method.

Now for Leaders; What to use for what, how long of a leader, and i've heard that some lines (mostly braided) can scare fish away when fluro is near invisbile? What about mono?

Any information on any of these topics would be much appreciated..

Posted

Northwestern WI, I use mainly braided on my casting outfits, for backing I just use a bit of electrical tape to let the braid dig in. For my spinning gear I use mono, mainly for simplicity. I'll tie a double uni like you described with fluro to braid, although I rarely bother as I'm not to sold on line scaring off fish. Just my .02

Posted

Thanks a ton!

On the spool of my baitcaster just take some electrical tape and wrap it around so it will dig and catch into it? And just 100% braid on the caster no leader?.. Would spooling braid on a spinning outfit with a 6ft mono leader give me a stronger hookset and better sensitivity?

  • Super User
Posted

#6 Yo-Zuri on spinning tackle...11.9 lb breaking strength, .010" diameter.

I recommend "green" for gin clear water, "purple smoke" for stained water.

Posted

I never use leaders or backing i use just plain power pro green and i put electric tape or athlete tape on the reel spool. Never had problems

is it a good idea to but a monofiliment leader on the baitcaster to save the expensive braided line of snagged?

  • Super User
Posted

To save money if using braid or fluorocarbon line, spool on some cheap mono first as a backing whether it is for spinning or baitcasting. I just spooled 10# braid (white Sufix 832) on a ML spinning rod. By doing this I can spool the reel twice with one purchase of braid. You don't need 120 yards of line for most kinds of freshwater fishing.

You could use a mono or fluoro leader if the bottom where you are fishing is abrasive to the line. Braid is very strong, but lacks abrasion resistance. Otherwise I personally tie direct. Lures are expensive as well. With straight braid you can sometimes save the lure where mono (or fluorocarbon) would break. I have straightened out jig hooks with the 30# braid on my MH spinning rod.

The Double Uni Knot is a strong knot, but look up the Alberto Knot. Possibly even stronger and the nice thing about it is that it isn't as bulky a knot as the Double Uni.

Braid digging in is normally a baitcasting reel problem that is easily avoided. 1: Keep the line tightly packed on the spool, and 2. Don't use too light of a line. My lightest braid on a baitcasting reel is 40# and I have no problems with it digging in. Used it this spring to pull my PB LMB out of a Hydrilla bed. I locked the drag on my STX reel and used thumb pressure to get the fish out of the weeds. Even then it hadn't dug in. Guarantee you won't be able to break the line with your bare hands.

Roadwarrior admits that braid has improved his jig fishing, and he hates braid. SirSnookalot suggests using 2 times the strength of braid if using a leader. So if using 10# braid on your spinning outfit, then use a 20# leader. That sounded like good information to me, but I would be tempted to go a bit lighter....say 15# leader. I'd rather loose my leader than a bunch of line and have to re-spool.

EDIT: BTW, I use 8# mono on my Medium rods, and 12# mono on my MH rods for the most part. Currently 2 each spinning and casting have braid and one casting rod has fluorocarbon. If I went braid or fluorocarbon on all my rods, I would have $100s more invested in line. I've fished mono my whole life, and don't see that changing except on a few outfits.

Posted

To save money if using braid or fluorocarbon line, spool on some cheap mono first as a backing whether it is for spinning or baitcasting. I just spooled 10# braid (white Sufix 832) on a ML spinning rod. By doing this I can spool the reel twice with one purchase of braid. You don't need 120 yards of line for most kinds of freshwater fishing.

You could use a mono or fluoro leader if the bottom where you are fishing is abrasive to the line. Braid is very strong, but lacks abrasion resistance. Otherwise I personally tie direct. Lures are expensive as well. With straight braid you can sometimes save the lure where mono (or fluorocarbon) would break. I have straightened out jig hooks with the 30# braid on my MH spinning rod.

The Double Uni Knot is a strong knot, but look up the Alberto Knot. Possibly even stronger and the nice thing about it is that it isn't as bulky a knot as the Double Uni.

Braid digging in is normally a baitcasting reel problem that is easily avoided. 1: Keep the line tightly packed on the spool, and 2. Don't use too light of a line. My lightest braid on a baitcasting reel is 40# and I have no problems with it digging in. Used it this spring to pull my PB LMB out of a Hydrilla bed. I locked the drag on my STX reel and used thumb pressure to get the fish out of the weeds. Even then it hadn't dug in. Guarantee you won't be able to break the line with your bare hands.

Roadwarrior admits that braid has improved his jig fishing, and he hates braid. SirSnookalot suggests using 2 times the strength of braid if using a leader. So if using 10# braid on your spinning outfit, then use a 20# leader. That sounded like good information to me, but I would be tempted to go a bit lighter....say 15# leader. I'd rather loose my leader than a bunch of line and have to re-spool.

That helps a ton! Thanks a lot! I think that answers just about everything! my one last quetsion is, how big of a fluro leader? If im using braid and a fluro leader, how long?

Posted

For what your fishing i dont think a leader is that important, i only use a leader on braid lines if im using my UL for trout spinners, you shouldnt have any trouble with bass or walleye.

  • Super User
Posted

My personal opinion is that line seldom has any affect on your catch rate.....at least for where and how I fish. If you must use one, then I guess anywhere from 2'-6' (depending on water clarity) would be a good place to start.

  • Super User
Posted

As far as lines, rods, reels, lures, leaders etc, I say find your niche on your own experience, every recommendation is going to have an opposing view.

I only use spinning gear and braid and always with a leader, that's 100% of my fishing, whether it's bass, inshore species, I vary that for offshore but that isn't pertinent in this thread.

I go braid all the way, usually 10# but I will jump it to 15# in heavy cover, I'm going to fish a bit heavier rod and reel too. As a cost saving measure there is nothing wrong with mono backing, for bass you don't need more than 50-60 yds of line. I use 15-20# leaders, tied with a swivel and about 2' long for freshwater, I quite often use a duolock, and don't change the leader for every outing. I've lost only 1 lure all year and that's because I hooked a tree. That said I do very little bottom fishing and freshwater jigging. One of the main reasons I use a leader instead of braid to my lure, is getting the line wrapped around the front trebles, a leader is much easier to untangle. It isn't unusual for me to use just 1-3 lures, I'll forgo the duolock and use a loopknot. Visually I don't think it matters that much to the fish, many people on here use braid and no leader with excellent results.

I no longer use F/C line or leaders, my strike rate seems to be the same with or without.

This is just what I do for the waters I fish and the techniques I employ.

  • Super User
Posted

I usually dont lose lures, ive straightened hooks before ive lost them haha

Until you have a lure wedged in a rock and have to break off.

Posted

Hahaha, knowing my luck id wedge a crank under 2 bolders, but thanks for the help!

Posted

My personal opinion is that line seldom has any affect on your catch rate.....at least for where and how I fish. If you must use one, then I guess anywhere from 2'-6' (depending on water clarity) would be a good place to start.

My personal opinion is that line seldom has any affect on your catch rate.....at least for where and how I fish. If you must use one, then I guess anywhere from 2'-6' (depending on water clarity) would be a good place to start.

As far as lines, rods, reels, lures, leaders etc, I say find your niche on your own experience, every recommendation is going to have an opposing view.

I only use spinning gear and braid and always with a leader, that's 100% of my fishing, whether it's bass, inshore species, I vary that for offshore but that isn't pertinent in this thread.

I go braid all the way, usually 10# but I will jump it to 15# in heavy cover, I'm going to fish a bit heavier rod and reel too. As a cost saving measure there is nothing wrong with mono backing, for bass you don't need more than 50-60 yds of line. I use 15-20# leaders, tied with a swivel and about 2' long for freshwater, I quite often use a duolock, and don't change the leader for every outing. I've lost only 1 lure all year and that's because I hooked a tree. That said I do very little bottom fishing and freshwater jigging. One of the main reasons I use a leader instead of braid to my lure, is getting the line wrapped around the front trebles, a leader is much easier to untangle. It isn't unusual for me to use just 1-3 lures, I'll forgo the duolock and use a loopknot. Visually I don't think it matters that much to the fish, many people on here use braid and no leader with excellent results.

I no longer use F/C line or leaders, my strike rate seems to be the same with or without.

This is just what I do for the waters I fish and the techniques I employ.

Would it be a bad idea to have a 15lb braid, with a 8lb fluro leader of maybe 3 ft? If I were to get snagged uner a rock with a crankbait could i pull on the line and only lose the 2ft #8 fluro leader?.. I'm only thinking the fluro leader because it'll make my cranks and suspending jerkbaits deper along with wacky rigs

  • Super User
Posted

You can use whatever # test leader you like, bear in mind if you are choosing a f/c leader it's most likely for visibility. If that's the case the thinner the leader the weaker the entire hook to mainline will be, it's ok some prefer it.

  • Super User
Posted

Also read TT's reviews on fluorocarbon line. Knot strength isn't up to the standards of mono or braid. Knots must be tied correctly and tightened while quite wet for best results. Not all knots are suitable for fluoro. Not that I know from experience, because I am currently using it on one rod only, but you read the same comments over and over again when it comes to fluoro. Therefore I stick with a Uni Knot. So far no problems with it although I was forced to break the line once. Don't know where it broke at, but had to remove a couple more feet of line to get to the good stuff.

  • Super User
Posted

I like Fins braid on a couple of reels the last year or two. The last few times I was in DSG they were out of stock on 15 and 20#.

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