basshole8190 Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 doing a mod on my 14' flat bottom. i waas wondering if any of you guys ever painted your own and if so what color schemes and techniques did you use? Quote
200racing Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 i used rustoleum primer and paint. used 3 of their camo colors and did digital camo. 3 years of hard use it still looks good. Quote
basshole8190 Posted July 27, 2012 Author Posted July 27, 2012 good deal i might try that i have access to a laser cutter at my job thinking of using it to cut some stencils to paint a pretty realistic camo pattern on mine. ill definately be using the rustoleum paint i've heard nothing but good things about it Quote
Super User 00 mod Posted July 27, 2012 Super User Posted July 27, 2012 Check out this place tinboats.net wealth of info over there! Jeff Quote
basshole8190 Posted July 27, 2012 Author Posted July 27, 2012 yea ive been looking there too its helped quite a bit Quote
The Guy Posted July 28, 2012 Posted July 28, 2012 I used rustoleum self etching primer and marine paint a year ago. It came out pretty good but if I were to do it again I would put some type of hardener in the paint. Quote
tipptruck1 Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 I use to do auto body for a living. So I might be able to help you. With a Aluminum it is hard to paint. First you will want to take some thing like this to every part you plan on painting. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-scotch-brite-imperial-paint-prep-scuff-maroon-07777-p-11221.aspx After that you will have to clean it. This is a good atricle about what yo use. http://www.autobody101.com/content/articles/surface-cleaners/ if you do that your paint will last a whole lot longer. Are you planning on spraying with a gun or a rattle can? If using a gun for the primer. You will need at lest a 1.5-2.0 tip. Make sure you put on at lest to good coats of self etch. Give it about 30-40 minutes to dry between coats. After both coats are dry. Take some 1200 grit sand paper and a block. And sand the whole thing till it feels smooth. Also never use a primer gun for base or any thing else. Just a quick note. Your primer color can effect you top coat color. The lighter you go. The lighter your top coat will be. The base you would use a at lest a 1.3 tip. Make sure you mix it at 2/1 with reducer. Also make sure it is oil based and not water based. Water based is some thing that the EPA mandated by 2012 or 13. It will not air dry at all. You could paint it and a week later it will still be wet. When doing base you want a over lap of about 50-75%. You will always want to keep the leading edge wet. So do not start on one side. Go 5 feet and come back to it. Depending on the weather give it 20-40 minutes between coats. You will want at lest two coats. The more you do the better. Also you should put in a clear. It doesn't have to be shinny. There are ways to mate down clear. I can't recall how to do it. But if you Google it I am sure you can find it. Also with clear. A 1.3 tip sprayed just like the base. 50-75% over lap. Two coats also. Quote
basshole8190 Posted July 31, 2012 Author Posted July 31, 2012 thanks for the advice i just finished priming it and i used rustoleum self etching primer will start sanding end of this week and prep for top coat do they sell clear coat in rattle cans? Quote
tipptruck1 Posted July 31, 2012 Posted July 31, 2012 Yea but it dose not look so good, and its not cheap. If you haev a good enough air compressor. I suggest a paint gun some thing thing like this will work.http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/sharpe-finex-fx3000-hvlp-paint-gun-p-14969.aspx Then I suggest this clear. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dupli-color-paint-shop-finishing-system-prism-clear-coat-bsp302-p-15691.aspx Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.