anybody "snell" their T-rig hooks?

[.ghoti.]

I've been told about this, twice.

Now, the latest In-Fisherman has an article about flippin and pitchin which talks about snelling the hooks.

They're referring to straight shank hooks, saying it gives a better, more natural horizontal presentation, and a more positive hookset. It also completely protects the knot from damage cause by contact with the weight.

Has anybody actually used this with EWG or offset hooks?

I've used snell knotted hooks for livebait, walleye fishing quite a bit. But, never for bass fishing.

I like the idea of the protected knot. I'm not at all convinced about the better presentation and hookset capability with any other than straight hooks.

I'm asking because tying the snell knot on a non-straight shank hook is a major PITA. I tried it at home several times, and decided I need more info before wasting any more time trying to master the knot on an EWG hook.

For those of you who haven't done this, you thread the line through the hookeye, than tie a uni knot around the hook shank. the knot is "inside" the hook, away from the weight.

[bilgerat]

Seems like a waste of time to me as I never had an issue with knot failures to begin with. Now hooksets are a different animal, you are always going to miss a percentage of them. Using the sharpest hooks possible is one way of putting the odds in your favor. I also don't see how hookset capability improves as, to me, that's determined by the geometry between the hookeye and the point. You are still pulling from the same place.

BTW, I have snelled bait hooks in the past and it is a royal p.i.t.a.

[Wayne P.]

It is really simple to snell just about any hook if you use the uni-knot.

I've done it with a EWG, an offset worm hook, a straight shank hook, an Octopus hook, and some more.

[phisher_d]

...I also don't see how hookset capability improves...

The argument for better hookups vs non-snelled straight shank hooks comes from the "rocking" action that occurs when pressure is applied to the weight above the hook.

If you snell a hook with the mainline entering the hook eye from the front, and then you pull down on the weight, the hook point will swing outwards. In theory, this should jam the hook point into the bass' mouth.

 

[Catt]

...I also don't see how hookset capability improves...

The argument for better hookups vs non-snelled straight shank hooks comes from the "rocking" action that occurs when pressure is applied to the weight above the hook.

If you snell a hook with the mainline entering the hook eye from the front, and then you pull down on the weight, the hook point will swing outwards. In theory, this should jam the hook point into the bass' mouth.

[J Francho]

I snell them. Works great, easy to tie. Here is an article by a friend of mine: http://www.burniehaney.com/News.html

Five or six turns with fluoro/mono, and 8-10 with braid.

There are links to videos on tying the knot at the bottom.

As far as the better hook up deal, I can't verify that. I use the snell because its easy to tie, strong, and the knot itself becomes a bait keeper.

[Triton21]

Anyone had any problems with line damage when the snell slips into the V in the hook eye bend?

Kelley

[J Francho]

It never makes it to that spot, once dressed and cinched properly, and if it did, that's the last wraps of the knot, which aren't contributing much to the knot strength. In fact, the knot out lasts the leader, in most cases. I use it on #10 hooks and 2 lb. fluoro leader for DD steelhead, all the way up to 6/0 Octopus Hooks and 65 lb. braid for beaver baits. If you're super concerned, the Paycheck and BMF hooks (same thing) have a welded eye. The biggest pain is getting the line off your hooks after a several reties, LOL.

[A-Rob]

My opinion is it is just another 'style'. I have had no problems hooking a bucketmouth with a EWG hook and a palomar knot.

Once I start losing fish I will change it up.

I saw a 'return knot' and it looks like a faster knot to tie than a snell but comes from the same angle on a straight hook.