ib_of_the_damned Posted January 10, 2010 Posted January 10, 2010 The lakes(Tri City Park, Placentia, CA and Yorba Regional Park, Yorba Linda, CA) that I go to are not huge in any way and they recieve a lot of fishing pressure. People fish for cats and trout mainly, cuz thats what is stocked, as for forage, the bass bust shad and trout, I know that there are bluegill and crawfish as well. I have used almost everything and its tough to get bit. How do you all fish these types of high pressure city lakes? Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted January 10, 2010 Super User Posted January 10, 2010 Two of my most productive ponds are the main feature of highly pressured public parks. I suggest fishing lures that the other guys aren't! I have had excellent results with big jig presentations (Rage Tail Lobster trailer) and the 10" Anaconda. Most importantly, fish away from the bank in deeper water. Casting from shore, I fish 15-20 yards off the bank. If you find any type of structure, focus your time there. 8-) 1 Quote
soccplayer07 Posted January 10, 2010 Posted January 10, 2010 Is the pressure for cats and trout mainly? if so, that is not a high pressure spot for bass. What have you been using that has not been producing the results you hoped for? Quote
Super User bilgerat Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Downsize, downsize, downsize... http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/small_baits.html Quote
Super User Crestliner2008 Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Think finesse. Try a modified carolina rig. Use a medium spinning rig with 8# test main line (mono or fluorocarbon). A light 1/16 - 1/8 oz. bullet sinker, a swivel, a 2' 6# test fluorocarbon leader and a size #1 or #1/0, off-set worm hook. Texas rig a 4" Roboworm on the business end. Cast as far out as you can and slowly crawl it across the bottom, back to you. I'd find it to believe if you didn't get bit! 2 Quote
Super User Hammer 4 Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 I also fish these city parks, and the bite is Extremly hard right now..I would do what Crestliner suggested. Small baits and fish em REALLY slow..impart NO action..long pause's between cranks. Sunrise or night is your best bet. Oh..I would suggest 4 lb fluro for the leader..Sorry Crestliner.. Think finesse. Try a modified carolina rig. Use a medium spinning rig with 8# test main line (mono or fluorocarbon). A light 1/16 - 1/8 oz. bullet sinker, a swivel, a 2' 6# test fluorocarbon leader and a size #1 or #1/0, off-set worm hook. Texas rig a 4" Roboworm on the business end. Cast as far out as you can and slowly crawl it across the bottom, back to you. I'd find it to believe if you didn't get bit! Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Hmm... I'm about big...no...HUGE! Try both extremes, just do something different! 8-) 2 Quote
scaledriver Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Good thread. I have had good luck drop shotting 4inch finess worms on one of the lakes I go to that get a whole lot of pressure. I like the down sized C rig idea to I want to try that this year sounds killer Quote
Super User Hammer 4 Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Kent...I tried "big & huge" no worky.. :-[ I could swear all the bass in park lakes have Lockjaw..for some reason. :'( Hmm...I'm about big...no...HUGE! Try both extremes, just do something different! 8-) Quote
Turtle. Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Two of my most productive ponds are the mainfeature of highly pressured public parks. I suggest fishing lures that the other guys aren't! I have had excellent results with big jig presentations (Rage Tail Lobster trailer) and the 10" Anaconda. Most importantly, fish away from the bank in deeper water. Casting from shore, I fish 15-20 yards off the bank. If you find any type of structure, focus your time there. 8-) Hmm...I'm about big...no...HUGE! Try both extremes, just do something different! 8-) x2 When fishing high pressured waters everyone says downsize,downsize,downsize that's what everyone does. So I go the other way, up size to bigger profile baits and have been very successful. Like R.W. said show them something different 1 Quote
DINK WHISPERER Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Reaction baits do it for me(lipless cranks, burning spinnerbaits, even power punching cover) Quote
Stasher1 Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Downsize, downsize, downsize...http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/small_baits.html This is exactly what I do, but I'd also recommend using lures that are a bit out of the ordinary, or more difficult to find. If it's available at Walmart, I'm much less likely to throw it on highly pressured public waters. Quote
ib_of_the_damned Posted January 11, 2010 Author Posted January 11, 2010 Posted by: soccplayer07 Posted on: Today at 3:57am Is the pressure for cats and trout mainly? if so, that is not a high pressure spot for bass. What have you been using that has not been producing the results you hoped for Right now there are more people fishing for trout, because DFG has been stocking the lakes I fish with trout. They are done stocking catfish. As for what I have thrown without success lately are: Baitcaster: Shakey Head: 3/16oz Shake2 or 1/4 Conquistador Tackle Shakey Head w/ 4.5-6" worms various colors T-Rig:1/8-3/16oz. bullet weight on all- Rage Tail Eeliminator(Blue Glimmer Black Flake), Rage Tail Anaconda 7"(Junebug)keel weighted hook, Zoom Lizard 6"(bullfrog), Netbait T-Mac (Bama Bug), Weightless senko(Natural Shad, Watermelon Red Flake, Black blue flake, Junebug), Swimsenko(Black blue flake)Keel weighted hook, Bass Pro Swizzle Stick(Black Blue Tail), Bass Pro Dart tubes(Okeechobee Craw), Slug-go 6"(Rainbow Trout) C-rig: 1/4oz weight- Zoom Lizard 6" (bullfrog), Netbait T-mac(Bama Bug), Rage Tail Eeliminator (Blue Glimmer), Bass Assassin Baby Shad(Phantom Salt & Pepper) Cranks: Shallow divers- Phantom Shad(BPS), XXX Shad(BPS), Bandit 100(Bluegill variations) Lipless: Bass Pro XPS 1/4oz. (XXX Bone Shad, Olive Shad), Rapala Rattlin' Rapala 2" (Shad), Cordell Super Spot 1/4oz. (Foxy Shad, Wounded Shad), Rat-l-trap 1/4oz. (black chrome, blue chrome) Jerkbaits: Xrap XR-8 (olive shad, black gold) XR-10(silver black back), Xrap Shallow Shad(olive shad) Spinnerbaits/Chatterbaits: Booyah Mini Shad( shad), War Eagle Finesse Spinnerbait(chart/white, sexy shad, bluegill), BPS Lazer Eye Double willow(white), Chatterbait, (bluegill, white) Jigs: Evo finesse jig( black, missouri craw), Booyah Boo Jig(black blue), Booyah Baby Boo Jig(black Blue), trailers-zoom super chunk jr. black, Rage tail baby craw okeechobee. Swimbaits: Bass Magic 5" (baby bass, silver blue green back), Megabait Charlie (Dark Green), Storm Kickin Stick (rainbow trout) Topwater: Buzzbait black blue, Spit'n'Image, Pop'n'Image Spinning: Dropshot- Tiny Flukes (aurora black, watermelon seed), Roboworm 4.5" Straightail (bold bluegill, aarons magic, tequila sunrise), Roboworm 4" curly tail (bold bluegill, baby bass), Bass Assassin Baby Shad (phantom salt & pepper), Creme Scoundrel 4"(live), Zoom Finesse worms (green pumpkin green, redbug) Flick Shake- 1/16oz Buckeye Flick-it, I have only used the Netbait T-mac with it in Bama Bug. That is everything that I have been using plus or minus a few I cant remember right now... Thanks for all the great suggestions so far, please keep them coming! 1 Quote
Stasher1 Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 These have been very productive for me, in the Green Sunfish color. http://www.cabelas.com/p-0037389120976a.shtml 1/8 oz bullet weight and a 2/0 fine wire offset hook, bounced off the bottom very slowly. Quote
Super User CWB Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Living near Chicago, that's the only type of water we get to fish around here. Keep an eye on what everyone else is doing. When they zig, you zag. I've found that alot of the weekend guys just throw spinnerbaits as they are easy to fish and weedless. Try something different. Stay ahead of the curve with baits. Try the deeper weededges and breaklines. Or go extremely shallow. If there are docks and boats moored in the water, skip a Senko or backwards Ika under and around them. If there's slop, get into the middle of it. The outside edges get pounded. Try trolling along the first deep breakline with a spoonplug or deep crank. Once you locate them, work the area thoroughly. Good luck and try to stay calm when someone pulls up right in front of you and starts to fish the same contour you are fishing in the same direction. Happens all the time. 1 Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Is it possible that your recent difficulty is the result of being bank bound and you just can't get to where the fish are? Any recent weather fronts that might have slowed the bite? 1 Quote
jaymc Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Those bass are eating the state stockies. Find out where the trout are concentrated and fish a swimbait or crank that imitates a rainbow. All those stocies are is bass food. If the trout are to far offshore for you to reach, then spring spawning amybe your only shot at reaching the bass. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Bass do learn to avoid anglers and lures. But, I'm going to suggest that the bait monkey is not your best bet. Instead, I'd say that timing is most important. There are times when bass are most vulnerable to being duped. Capitalize on the conditions, locations, and positions when bass are vulnerable. Probably the biggest factor is water and sky conditions. Take advantage of low light: time of day, clouds, chop, water color, all help -a lot. Also, there are patterns/scenarios that will develop you can recognize. They might relate to water conditions, vegetation changes, or preyfish activity. If you pay attention there are LOTS of things you can take advantage of. Keep a log and you'll see the same stuff come around again. Here are a few examples to get you thinking and watching: 1. Ponds usually have certain shorelines that offer a hunting advantage to bass. One I have made good use of is shorelines with a small (2ft) but sharp drop at shore. Bass corral 'gills here and are vulnerable to a lure. Other shorelines are too gradual in slope and 'gills can escape into water too shallow for the bass. Couple this with good lighting conditions and you will make your day right then and there. 2. In some of my ponds filamentous algae grows dense enough by early summer that it breaks free of bottom and gets blown to windward shores. At times, affected by which shoreline it blows onto and sometimes heating of immediate shallows, bluegills and bass will stack up under the algae, often times in only a foot of water. 3. By late May in some of my ponds. damselflies emerge in numbers large enough to draw mature bluegills into the vegetation beds and shoreline cover the damsels emerge from. The larger bass are in there with them. As a long-time fly-fisherman I'm pretty hip to seeing insect emergences and the effects they have on the food chain. A feeding bluegill is a distracted bluegill. Bass know this. 4. I take advantage of the bluegill spawn. There are usually crowds of bass outside 'gill colonies and they are vulnerable to an appropriate well-placed lure. Believe it, even if you can't see them. Find the biggest 'gills, you'll find the biggest bass. 5. I watch for vulnerable individuals. If I see a bass chase prey I get a lure there -immediately. Sometimes I just see a 'gill bolt into the shallows near me. That means there's an aggressive bass very close believe it and move fast. An aggressive bass is as close to a stupid bass as there is (except for maybe a naive aggressive bass). This 20" LM chased a 'gill to my feet. I didn't see the bass but the 'gill was obviously in a panic. I made a short pitch with a jerkbait and ... 6. Get to know individual bass. Some of the largest bass in my ponds have places they habitually go. This changes a bit as things change over the season, but you can get to know fish and be in position to catch them. This "Mama" (that's what I called her) used a particular weedline (edge of a slight bar) and was susceptible to certain lures under low light. 5 Quote
jaymc Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Bass do learn to avoid anglers and lures. But, my guess is the bait monkey is not your best best. I'd have to say that timing is most important. There are times when bass are most vulnerable to being duped. Capitalize on the conditions, locations, and positions when bass are vulnerable. Probably the biggest factor is water and sky conditions. Take advantage of low light: time of day, clouds, chop, water color, all help -a lot. Also, there are seasonal patterns that will develop you can recognize. They might relate to water conditions, vegetation changes (species, density, location), or preyfish activity. If you pay attention there are LOTS of things you can take advantage of. Keep a log and you'll see the same stuff come around again. I'll give you a few examples to get you thinking and watching: 1. Ponds usually have a shoreline that offers a hunting advantage to bass. One I make good use of is a shore with a small (2ft) but sharp drop at shore. Bass corral 'gills here and are vulnerable to a lure. Other shorelines are too gradual in slope and 'gills can escape into water too shallow for the bass. Couple this with good lighting conditions and you will make your day right then and there. 2. In some of my ponds filamentous algae grows dense enough by early summer that it breaks free of bottom and gets blown to windward shores. At times, affected by which shoreline it blows onto and sometimes heating of immediate shallows, bluegills and bass will stack up under the algae, often times in only a foot of water. 3. By late May in some of my ponds. damselflies emerge in numbers large enough to draw mature bluegills into the vegetation beds and shoreline cover the damsels emerge from. The larger bass are in there with them. As a long-time fly-fisherman I'm pretty hip to seeing insect emergences and the effects they have on the food chain. A feeding bluegill is a distracted bluegill. Bass know this. 4. I take advantage of the bluegill spawn. There are usually crowds of bass outside 'gill colonies and they are vulnerable to an appropriate well-placed lure. Believe it, even if you can't see them. Find the biggest 'gills, you'll find the biggest bass. 5. I watch for vulnerable individuals. If I see a bass chase prey I get a lure there speed can be important. Sometimes I just see a 'gill bolt into the shallows near me. That means there's an aggressive bass very close believe it and move fast. An aggressive bass is as close to a stupid bass as there is. This 20" LM chased a 'gill to my feet. I didn't see the bass but the 'gill was obviously in a panic. I made a short pitch with a jerkbait and ... 6. Get to know individual bass. Some of the largest bass in my ponds have places they habitually go. This changes a bit as things change over the season, but you can get to know fish and be in position to catch them. This mama (that's what I called her) used a particular weedline (edge of a slight bar) and was susceptible to certain lures under low light. I don't think that bass learn to avoid lures. I think all bass either completely ignore, refuse, or are actually frightened by artificials most of the time. 1 Quote
BriBass Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Living near Chicago, that's the only type of water we get to fish around here. Keep an eye on what everyone else is doing. When they zig, you zag. I've found that alot of the weekend guys just throw spinnerbaits as they are easy to fish and weedless. Try something different. Stay ahead of the curve with baits. Try the deeper weededges and breaklines. Or go extremely shallow. If there are docks and boats moored in the water, skip a Senko or backwards Ika under and around them. If there's slop, get into the middle of it. The outside edges get pounded. Try trolling along the first deep breakline with a spoonplug or deep crank. Once you locate them, work the area thoroughly.Good luck and try to stay calm when someone pulls up right in front of you and starts to fish the same contour you are fishing in the same direction. Happens all the time. X1,000,000 Couldn't have said it better... btw CWB, what suburb do u live in? Just like ur comment says on your profile.. I live in the suburbs NOT chicago ;D Arlington Heights Quote
mudkart Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Have you tried fishing at night? Apologies if this has already been mentioned. We see the same or similar situtations here in NOVA. IME, the fishing is typically much better at night or just before daybreak. My theory is the intense pressure on some of these lakes/ponds conditions the bass (at least the old, smart big ones) to feed primarily at night. 1 Quote
Super User bilgerat Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Downsize, downsize, downsize...http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/small_baits.html This is exactly what I do, but I'd also recommend using lures that are a bit out of the ordinary, or more difficult to find. If it's available at Walmart, I'm much less likely to throw it on highly pressured public waters. Right on. I made a post a while back about using tail sections of torn up stick baits rigged onto ball jigs. It works VERY well for me. I do the same with jig trailers after the claws have been bitten off. I catch fish consistently using the 'carcasses' of plastic baits rigged this way. Charlie Brewer Slider Worms work on the same principal. Sometimes no action gets you action. The resident tackle snobs here basically laughed it off as if it was impossible to catch fish this way. When a fish pokes it's head out of the water and asks me what I paid for a bait, I'll change my ways. Quote
Super User Paul Roberts Posted January 11, 2010 Super User Posted January 11, 2010 Bass do learn to avoid anglers and lures. But, my guess is the bait monkey is not your best best. I'd have to say that timing is most important. There are times when bass are most vulnerable to being duped. Capitalize on the conditions, locations, and positions when bass are vulnerable. ... I don't think that bass learn to avoid lures. I think all bass either completely ignore, refuse, or are actually frightened by artificials most of the time. Lotsa research out there showing bass become MUCH harder to catch after gaining experience with anglers. Also, have you ever fished a pond that had never been fished? It's VERY different from one that is fished. The result is a lot more bass that "completely ignore, refuse, or are actually frightened by artificials most of the time." 1 Quote
Super User Hammer 4 Posted January 12, 2010 Super User Posted January 12, 2010 O.K...I fished one of the most pressured park ponds this afternoon. I took 1 spinning rig spooled with 4lb 100% fluro. I won't say what lure I used, but it was a craw type. I fished painfully slow, casted toward the deepest part, maybe 5' deep. I then hit the what could be called the points.. I fished where I knew some structure was, which is very little. I then went against my better judgment, and tossed my lure slightly past a rounded point, I kept the lure about 3' from shore, working it paralell..in a bottom bouncing motion, lifting the lure about a foot off the bottom (water is approx. 3-4' deep)..and BAM!!! a nice 4lb'r, not 3 mins. later, same area, another, maybe 3 or ..2 mins later, a 2 1/2 lb'r get nailed. So the fish are there, it's finding them, and presenting the right bait in the way they want it. I have to give credit to Paul for the above, as I would probably not fished so close to shore, if it wern't for his comment earlier. Explore all areas of the water! Quote
BassShephard Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 I live on the other side of the country so things vary from one body of water to the next even if that pond was 500 yards from the one I fish things would still be different, worth a try though. Last year I had the same problem I used many baits but they weren't working, mind you this was early-late summer. Small tubes worked well, now usually tubes they are used in spring for sight fishing bedding fish, possibly not many people would use it in summer. I think wacky rigging is a good technique, I don't think the average person knows or uses this style, I had good results Early summer (and decent size bass) not so much late summer, fall, also it gives a different presentation then most baits imo which makes it stand out more. For early morning, late afternoon and cloudy conditions a Medium torpedo did well. I used a worm, common I know but I was using the ones with Propellers, didn't catch them with any other type of worm (exception of wacky rigging one), the propeller gives it shine and vibration. I averaged about 7 LM bass 3-5 hours of fishing on a over fished pond (some days I did worse and some I did a lot better). Fish during the rain if your prepared/brave enough to do so, keep safety in mind if you do, don't want to be in a boat, watch for muddy banks and it's a good idea to have insulted cover (IE house or truck) case it starts thundering. I had a lot of luck before/during a rain I used top water bait before the rain, caught lots and they were good size fish. When the rain hit I used Shad color shallow and medium diving cranks and once again caught a bunch, they were also decent size. Before it rained I was barely catching any thing all said and done I was soaked, my tackle box was flooded and by bait had to be dried before it rusted but I Had Fun! Livebait: if I'm not catching nothing I'll resort to live bait seriously if you don't catch at least one fish with it, that pond has no fish. At one point I had some people fishing beside me (it actually happened before) the whole time they were there they caught a bluegill, I pulled out a few small bass, they kept saying how nice they were (which they weren't even eating size) and asked if I was going to keep them I just throw them back... they looked like they were going to jump me for those fish lol. Quote
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