Texfisherman Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 So we're on a lake that has tons of monster bass in it. This lake has lily pads extending out atleast 20 feet from the shoreline, all the way around the lake. We were working the edge line of the lily pads with 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits, wacky-rigged worms on weedless hooks, and t-rigged worms. Every time we hooked into a monster bass, it immediately headed to the lily pads and wrapped around one of them. We would keep heavy tension on the line as we moved the boat in on the location. But by the time we had dug around the lily pad where the bass was, the bass had magically disappeared. Any advice on preventing this? We lost 3 big bass in one day due to this exact situation. Other info: 10 pound mono test, spinning rod and reel, medium-action rod, can't think of anything else. ^^ If it's possible to keep using the 10 pound test and still address this situation, I would prefer it. Thanks Quote
North Ga Hillbilly Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 I think switching a stiff MH or Heavy rod and stepping it up to 50# braid or heavier is going to be one of the better plans. NGaHB Quote
dale.m Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 I'd switch to at least a 30 lb braided line and a rod that has enough backbone to rip them out of the lilly pads. 2 Quote
Texfisherman Posted June 19, 2012 Author Posted June 19, 2012 Thanks for the prompt replies. Any suggestions on a good heavy-action spinning rod/reel for working braided line? I tried working with braided 30-pound recently and it kept slipping on the spool as if it weren't actually attached. Quote
mod479 Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 Like the previous posters have said, spool up with some braid. I like power pro in green for fishing weeds/pads. Even 20lb braid will have a smaller diameter than your 10# mono. It will saw those lily pads up as you apply pressure, and that is what you need to do...get them out of those pads as quick as possible. Otherwise they'll just bury themselves in there deeper. Quote
mod479 Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 The braid spinning on your spool is an easy fix. Leave about 50 feet of monfilament on your reel, and attach your new braid with a double uni knot. 1 Quote
senko_77 Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 Texfisherman, you got all the advice you need in the above posts. Another thing I will add about the braid slippage is to wrap a strip of of packing tape around the mono. I do this for two reasons. One, it keeps the knot thats connecting the mono to braid from sticking out and snagging the line coming off your reel on the cast, and two, it has helped the slippage for me even more than just using the monofilament backing. Good luck man. Like everyone said, pulling fish out of lily pads with 10lb mono is next to impossible. Braid seems like your only option. Quote
Texfisherman Posted June 19, 2012 Author Posted June 19, 2012 Thank you, Senko_77. I will be trying the double-uni knot with a strip of packaging tape. Maybe next time I'll get to post a pic of one of those monsters on this site. Quote
MagicMoment Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 I would try flipping those lily pads using a good sized hook (5 aught off-set shank at least). 65# braid also and a heavy action rod. Also if you need visual help with catching these monster bass, PM me the lake address. Quote
james 14 Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 Once a bass gets down in the pads you're done. You've got to rip him out as quickly as possible. This holds true with any emergent vegetation...not just pads. I learned the hard way on a fish that about pulled me in the lake when I was flipping a grassline ealier this year. I lost her when she got in the grass. Since then I've turned my hooksets into an effort in pulling fish up to the surface and out of whatever they're in. I've already seen it pay off in my landing fish in situations where they used to get off. The bottom line, as mentioned above, is that you can't do this with 10lb mono and a medium action spinning rod. You may not have to go the route of using braid and heavy action rods but you certainly need to up your tackle a bit. Put braid on that spinning rod and use a leader to fit whatever situation you're fishing. A 20lb flouro leader with a 30lb braid mainline will give you much more control over those fish. You can even go straight braid depending on the water color, how deep in the pads you're fishing and how slow of a retrieve you're using. Quote
Super User AK-Jax86 Posted June 19, 2012 Super User Posted June 19, 2012 When I was back in Jersey I lost a MONSTER in the lilly pads. It jumped out of the water twice and then made a v line right to the Lilly pads and snapped my line I also lost my favorite spinner bait, this was about 2 or 3 years ago. But someone said it before there is nothing like using a top water frog and getting a bass to strike it right out of the wate through the lillys Quote
SmokeRise1 Posted June 20, 2012 Posted June 20, 2012 How much do you want to spend on a new rod? There are plenty out there that will work for you in this situation. Berkley Lightening Rod Shock is specifically designed for braid and will only run you like $50. I have one setup with 30lb PowerPro with a casting reel that I use with Rage Toads and Shads on pads all summer and it performs just fine. Quote
LunkerLust Posted June 25, 2012 Posted June 25, 2012 I learned the hard way, fishing in and around pads and heavy weeds. At first you will break the line, when you start using braid you will strip the gears in your spinning reel. If you get a cheap baitcaster, you will strip the gears in that too! All this on 4 - 6 lb Ct bass. I can't imagine how tough it would be to haul double digit Texas bass out of the water. Bottom line, spend at least $100 on a good baitcasting reel (I like Revos), and maybe $60+ on a BC rod, and you should be able to muscle them into the boat, before they get dug in to the weeds. This ain't no game! Quote
"Lunker Hunter" Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 I wish I had this problem good luck on the tips given so far. Quote
JamesD Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 I'm no expert, but LunkerLust seems to have a good point. Y'all can say what you want, but I swear by my Ugly Stik... it's been a fantastic rod for me, plenty powerful at 7' (spinning) for just about anything I want to do with it. I run an old Shimano TX1200 rear drag spinner with big gauge 20lb test mono line and the drag set to where I can barely spin the spool by thumb... I've YET to lose a fish to any under-water-hazards with this combo. I also pull the fish out of the water on hook set. Even some larger 4-5lb bass come flip-flopping out of the water... Now, if you're interested in a baitcaster? I won't recommend any of these low-pro deals, I will tell you that there are some REALLY good deals on ebay for Daiwa Millionaire, older Shimano calcutta style reels, and Abu Garcia 5500-7000's. I mean like sub $75 prices on all of these. I doubt you will run into any issues with any of those reels. Also... the Ugly stick comes in a 7' and 7'6" casting versions available at your local walmart or academy for $29.99. I'm sure Bass Pro would carry them too... anyway, Just my two cents. Quote
scrutch Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 IMHO... You need braid and a rod with more backbone to turn those fish around before they get into the pads. A med heavy or heavy would help a lot. Not sure of your budget but ducker makes some good rods with a lot of backbone with a softer tip. Quote
Sean MD Posted June 27, 2012 Posted June 27, 2012 I have a 7 ft MH baitcast that I use as my flippin' stick specifically for lily pads and heavy cover. Another thing I will add about the braid slippage is to wrap a strip of of packing tape around the mono. I do this for two reasons. One, it keeps the knot thats connecting the mono to braid from sticking out and snagging the line coming off your reel on the cast, and two, it has helped the slippage for me even more than just using the monofilament backing. I've never heard of this, but it sounds interesting. Can you explain a little more? How wide is the strip of packing tape? Do you leave just enough on either side for the knot to move around? Thanks! Quote
Texfisherman Posted June 28, 2012 Author Posted June 28, 2012 Lots of great advice here, and I utilized all of it (and caught a monster bass)! I love the medium-heavy rods now and couldn't imagine going back to medium. The only thing I didn't do was the packaging tape around the mono. I wish I had done it though, because that tape would push that knot down, more evenly with the surface. Right now, when I cast, the line is rubbing against the double-uni knot and it's reducing my casting distance greatly. It still works fantastically, but I'm gonna re-tie my spools, this time using the tape. Quote
RHuff Posted December 19, 2018 Posted December 19, 2018 Old thread but definitely a current topic. I lost a couple of big fish last year in tournaments too on jigs that got me locked in the pads. One was when i pitched a jig beside a stump that was sticking out of a pad field. I let the jig fall vertical by the base of the stump and it hit it on the fall. I never could see the fish because I never got it up to the surface but it was strong. I held tension on the line and went into the pad field after him but when I got there the jig was locked around the pad stems and the fish was long gone. The only real solution is to get to the surface as soon as you set the hook. I am gonna switch from my MH to a H/F and 6.6:1 with 12lb drag Lew's to the newer Super Duty in 8.3:1 with 20 lb drag. I'm also gonna upgrade from 30lb braid to 65lb braid to see if that helps this year. I know for a fact one of those fish would have won me the tournament. Quote
Smalls Posted December 20, 2018 Posted December 20, 2018 If I’m fishing within 20 feet of thick lily pads, I’ll throw even a spinnerbait on a heavy rod with heavy braid. I know exactly where they plan on goin once I hook em and if I can stop em, I will. Quote
Super User flyfisher Posted December 20, 2018 Super User Posted December 20, 2018 I hate the tape deal on a spool. Â In warmer weather it will gum up. Â Just tie the braid direct to the spool. Â I tie a big loop and girth hitch the spool in the opposite direction of the line rotation when reeling in. Â Once you get a few layers in, push the knot down into the spool of line and keep reeling. Â It is super important on a braid set up to keep the line as tight as possible when spooling to prevent the spinning issue. All that being said. Â don't be afraid to throw a fluke in those pads and be ready to go in and get the fish...i have caught many citation sized largemouth here in VA doing just that. Quote
Super User the reel ess Posted December 21, 2018 Super User Posted December 21, 2018 That much drag isn't really necessary. My frog rod is a Cabela's Tourney XT frog model with a Lews LFS Tournament MB reel with 14 lb of drag. It gets the job done, but it's mostly the rod. That frog model rod is a pool cue. But that stump in a lily field is a killer spot, ain't it?  If you fill half the spool with cheap mono you can save some $$$ on the braid and it won't slip on the spool. Quote
Super User NHBull Posted December 21, 2018 Super User Posted December 21, 2018 I like 4 strand braid for grass and pads, it just cuts better and I don't need to use 65lb Quote
RHuff Posted December 21, 2018 Posted December 21, 2018 3 hours ago, the reel ess said: That much drag isn't really necessary. My frog rod is a Cabela's Tourney XT frog model with a Lews LFS Tournament MB reel with 14 lb of drag. It gets the job done, but it's mostly the rod. That frog model rod is a pool cue. But that stump in a lily field is a killer spot, ain't it?  If you fill half the spool with cheap mono you can save some $$$ on the braid and it won't slip on the spool.    You think it was the braid slipping rather than the 12lb drag slipping?? I assumed I needed a stronger drag. 1 Quote
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