Punchin Mats

[JunkYard814]

With summer rolling around, a lot of our local ponds and lakes are becoming matted with vegetation. I know there are bass under there, but I'm not having the success I would like dragging a frog across the top or playing around the edges. I've heard about punching mats, but I don't know enough to confidently try it.

Here's what I do know. I need a MH or H power rod and a reel lined with 60lb test or higher. What I would like to know is what type of hooks should I use, what types of baits are best for punching mats, should I be throwing jigs, or texas rigged baits. Also, if I get hung up in the weeds, should I be worried about burying the braided line into itself on the spool.

I'd like to hear what you guys use for punching mats from top to bottom, and extra tips you might have. I appreciate your help.

[msolorio]

you can use 50 lb braid and be just fine, everyone says no you need 65, bs, 50 does just fine. any time im flippin/pitchin/punchin i use a straight shank hook like the gammy heavy cover or paycheck punch hook. i dont like ewgs for that purpose. you can use beaver style baits or whatever you want really, i dont feel that you have to only use one style bait or whatever. use a work, creature, whatever. depending on how thick the grass is you can use anywhere from 3/4-2oz weights. pitch it in the holes of the mat or right through. let it sink to the bottom, yoyo it up a couple times or just give it a few good "thumps" with the rod. if a fish is there shes gonna kill your bait. you can use jigs but i prefer t rigged baits with a punch skirt. every jig ive used for punchin ends up comin out with junk on it. my equipment; i use a powell max 806c paired with an lews tournament mg and 50lb sunline fx2 braid, a 3/4-2oz tungsten sinker pegged with a rubber bobber stop, paycheck baits punch skirt, ri bmf hook, and whatever soft plastic bait i feel like using. this set up is fire all around my area and at the cali delta so im sure itd work for you.

[KevO]

I punch with a G Loomis BCFR 954 GLX, Curado 200e7 and 65lb Sufix braid. I agree with everything MSolorio said. I like punchin skirts over jigs and straight shank worm hooks like Trokar or Owner. My favorite bait is a rage tail lobster with a dirty jigs punchin skirt.

[piscicidal]

My punching setup...

- Dobyns 766

- Quantum Accurist 570 (7:1)

- 50lb power pro

- 1.5/2.0 oz tungsten weight

- 4/0 Gammy heavy cover hook

The 766 has a great action for punching. Tip is a little soft which is key...both for hookup percentage and flipping distance/accuracy.

The Accurist is a great punching reel. Big aluminum frame, heavy duty spool shaft (5.0mm), very fast retrieve (7.0 : 1), very strong/smooth ceramic drag. I like the flippin' switch operation of this reel (unlike the twitchin bar, instagage and others). I have trained myself to flip both left and right handed and I can engage the spool instantly with either hand. Never know when that bite will come flipping and you always have to be ready to hit em quick.

I like power pro for this application. There are better overall braided lines out there, but PP seems to "cut" the weeds better than some other brands. When you setup on a big fish and you hear that PP "sawing" through weeds...it's an awesome sound.

I like using a small profile bait (i.e. gambler BB cricket) for punching heavy mats as it penetrates the weeds easily. A little lube/scent will also help the bait slide through vegetation.

I use a lot of 1oz jigs in heavy cover. But for punching thick mats, i think the smaller 1.5oz weight and smaller profile bait is more effective.

[SoFlaBassAddict]

My punching setup...

- Dobyns 766

- Quantum Accurist 570 (7:1)

- 50lb power pro

- 1.5/2.0 oz tungsten weight

- 4/0 Gammy heavy cover hook

The 766 has a great action for punching. Tip is a little soft which is key...both for hookup percentage and flipping distance/accuracy.

The Accurist is a great punching reel. Big aluminum frame, heavy duty spool shaft (5.0mm), very fast retrieve (7.0 : 1), very strong/smooth ceramic drag. I like the flippin' switch operation of this reel (unlike the twitchin bar, instagage and others). I have trained myself to flip both left and right handed and I can engage the spool instantly with either hand. Never know when that bite will come flipping and you always have to be ready to hit em quick.

I like power pro for this application. There are better overall braided lines out there, but PP seems to "cut" the weeds better than some other brands. When you setup on a big fish and you hear that PP "sawing" through weeds...it's an awesome sound.

I like using a small profile bait (i.e. gambler BB cricket) for punching heavy mats as it penetrates the weeds easily. A little lube/scent will also help the bait slide through vegetation.

I use a lot of 1oz jigs in heavy cover. But for punching thick mats, i think the smaller 1.5oz weight and smaller profile bait is more effective.

I'm set up just about the same. Rods are a Dobyns 736 or an 804 depending on how thick of a mat. Using a Citica instead of the Accurist. Lately I've become addicted to using the SK Baby Rodents instead of a cricket. I freakin love those things. I've also been playing with 832 for a while now instead of PP. Hooks are Owners. Either straight shank or EWG depending on the bait, though a straight shank gets the nod more often than not.

[FD.]

Here is my setup for the thick stuff.

7'-9" Fenwick swimbait rod. I like a little softer tip to go with the leverage

Revo SX HS

65 lb power pro

bobber stop, 1.5 oz tungsten punch weight, 3/0 Gamu EWG superline

Ugly otter or Mega bug

[A-Rob]

You should be good on the rod/line. I'd recommend getting a good quality reel for this heavy duty yet finesse (accurate casting) style of fishing.

I have been using Owner Flipping Hooks with the center pin and made from Z-metal or something that is meant for heavy braid and rods. It holds the bait really nicely so I never have to worry about the baits position. Normally on straight shank hooks I tie a snell but with these owner hooks you can't really do that b/c of the eye position...but I have had an increase in hook up ratio with these hooks none the less. I use a San Diego Jam, never failed me on braid or floro.

I prefer smaller craws for heavy cover, like a 3" Gamble BB Cricket or in cane with lighter weeds I may upsize to a bigger craw, 6" Lizard, or tube (Chigger craw, Any 6" lizard, Strike King Flipping Tube or Reaction Boom Tube).

Pick dark colors b/c it is dark under those mats (black/blue etc).

I use Tungsten weights...for punching usually 3/4 to 1oz for my part of the woods. But I go as light as I can get away with, but heavy enough I don't have to dink around with shaking the lure thru.

you will make a lot of pitches/flips and not catch a bass on every one...so just keep focused and flip away!

[JunkYard814]

What's the reason for using straight shank hooks?

[clayton86]

I had similar questions last summer and got a lot of the same answers but a few I don't see so far and that helped me are use a larger circle hook with a snell knot. the sinker will "cam" the hook for easier/better hook ups. I'll try and find a link to the thread. I got a few bass and a pike doing it this way I used devil spear,rage tail craws mostly.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/91482-punching/page__p__1025578__hl__+snell%20+knot#entry1025578

and heres the one with the video about the hooks and knot

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/88345-flipping-hooks/page__hl__%20snell%20%20knot

[msolorio]

straight shank hooks imo cant be beat. in fact i use them a lot more that ewg's. i like the fact that the point doesnt run in line with the eye, theyre offset thus you get a better hook up ration, well i do any way. i always tie a snell when flippin/pitchin/punchin with braid. most the fish get hooked in the roof of the mouth and thats really where you wanna hook em. straight shank hooks are just hard to beat imo.