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Posted

hey all

I have a Grizzly Air Impact Wrench that I bought from grizzly.com a number of years ago. For the number of times that I use it in a given month, I felt it was perfect for what I needed it for. (Occassional automotive work).

Well, recently I have been taking on more of the DIY automotive fixes and am noticing some odd results from how this wrench has been acting. I am not sure if it is because of the brand/quality or maybe because the wrench is in the need of a replacement. Allow me to explain

When using the impact, I notice that when the socket is on a bolt, it will more times than not, stop spinning and air will come out the trigger part. It will work a couple seconds then stop and blow nothing but air out the trigger. At first I didn't think to much of it but then the wrench started to become ice cold. Which I thought was really odd. It was blowing spits of water out the trigger button and again, the unit was becoming very cold. In the whole process, it would work a couple seconds but more times than not, would not spin at all and just blow air.

Is this normal for an air impact wrench?

What do these signs mean?

Posted

When was the last time you oiled it? Also, have you checked your compressor tank for water? Lack of oil and/or moisture in the lines will ruin a good air tool in a short time.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I can't diagnose the problem with your wrench, but I can say that the reason the wrench becomes ice cold is due to the rapidly expanding air coming from the compressor. The reason that you have water coming out is because you have water in your compressor tank. There should be a petcock at the bottom of the tank that will allow you to drain the water.

  • Super User
Posted

I can't diagnose the problem with your wrench, but I can say that the reason the wrench becomes ice cold is due to the rapidly expanding air coming from the compressor. The reason that you have water coming out is because you have water in your compressor tank. There should be a petcock at the bottom of the tank that will allow you to drain the water.

x2! First step is to clear water out of compressor, then go from there!

jeff

Posted

hmmmm, so it doesnt sound like the wrench at all.

a few years ago, i remember taking the plug out of the compressor to drain the water out but nothing ever came out....so wasnt sure why.

thats not to say there isnt water sitting in it right now........i will drain that and see what happens.

as for the oil, what type of oil do i use?

Posted

ok, I happen to work thre so I will check next time I am scheduled to work.

As for draining. I jut opened the drain plug and it started to drain the water. It was clear at first then turned to rust color. The rust didn't last long at all, the water that came out was more clear than anything. The amount of water that came out was in fact quite a bit. So that has all been drained now.

As long as I keep draining this like I should, at what point would I consider the compressor ruined? Since there is rust on the inside, am I ok or is it messed up beyond all repair?

Posted

I wouldn't worry too much about the rust. The inside of the tank is just bare steel, so it's bound to rust when exposed to moisture. As long as the compressor motor is still running and putting out the CFM you need, it's fine. Just be sure to keep your air tools oiled. Put a couple drops of air tool oil (or a light machine oil) into the air fitting before hooking it to the hose and you should be fine. If you add too much, it'll blow out the exhaust and make a huge mess all over you and whatever you're working on.

  • Super User
Posted

Put a water trap in the line. It's easier to drain that the main tank. Drain it each time you use the compressor. You'll still need to drain the main tank from time to time, but the trap, provided you drain it regularly, will help a lot with water in the air lines and tools.

Oil is critical. I have an inline oiler for my air tools. It provides constant oiling for the tool I'm using. A couple of drops of oil in the tool will help, but does not supply a constant, minute, flow of oil to the moving parts of the tool. Fill the oiler each time you use the tool. Plus, it's less messy than adding a couple of drops of oil now and then.

.CO2-ATO.jpg

Get the inline type pictured above.

Posted

I use to do auto body work for a living. We never wanted water in our lines peorid. Granted we had a 10,000 dollar air compresser that heated and filtered the air. We still ran liquid traps every were. They whould catch both oil and water.

You should drain your tank after every use. It dont matter if you use it for 10 minutes or not. Most tanks you just pull and walk away.

One of two things can be wrong with your impact. One its not getting enough air to run it. Two that what happens when air tools are on there last leg. So you might want to start looking. If you have to buy new dont skimp. Buy a tool worth it. If taken care of right. They can last you decades.

Posted

I have a 30 gallon compressor, and if I use the compressor for 5- 10 minutes and drain it......it then dumps all air in canister so I have to wait for it to refill every time I wanna use it. Thats a big compressor to have to keep dumping air after every use.

am i over thinking this?

Posted

You might be. I should have said. When you are done with it for the day. So if you use it to fill a tire in the morning. Then you go to work or some place else drain it. But if hanging aroud your shop you dont have to.

A 30 gallon tank might not be enough for a impact. Impacts take a lot of air. You might get the cfms for a while. But a dual tank 60 gallon would be better. A dual tank is far better for running air tools. You only use one tank at a time. Then when one gets empty. The other tank takes over. When that happens the first on fill up again. There also not cheap 2k will get you a good one.

But I would also find a friend with a impact. If his can run on you line. Then your gun is the problem.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Three things could be the problem....motor and veins are gummed up, not letting veins slide out like they need to to catch the air. Output shaft on rotor is broken.( throw the wrench away) . Rotor has worn into motor end plate until end plate metal has embedded into rotor making a spot on the rotor that digs into the end plate not letting it get spinning. Two of these can be repared with no parts, just take the wrench apart and check.

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