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Hey Guys, I'm doing some wiring on my bass boat on the bow. I have a few wires that are going through the front plastic piece to run back to the battery but I'm looking for something to clean up the wires going through the plastic piece. Currently I have a the vent piece below but I have 4 or 5 wires going through it and it's now to small. I have seen like a circle piece that bolts in and has rub pieces so it's not just a big hole there with wires coming out of it. Can anyone link or show pictures of how they have cleaned up the wires going from their graphs back into the boat. Jeff

Hi There, I decided I wanted to try to put a trolling motor on my kayak and control speed and direction with a PWM. I'm running into a bit of a problem and for the life of me, i can't figure out what the issue is. I'm hoping someone on here may have seen a similar issue before and can help point me in the right direction. I have the battery, trolling motor and PWM all hooked up. I've created a wiring harness to extend the PWM controls to a smaller "remote" box away from the PWM so that I can limit the length of wire between the battery and the trolling motor so I can use 10 AWG with limited voltage drop. I'm using a Newport Vessels 55lb thrust kayak trolling motor with a VMAX 85 AH deep cycle marine battery. The PWM controls consist of a 3 way (forward, neutral, reverse), polarity reversing switch and a potentiometer knob to control speed. When I flip the switch to forward and increase the speed knob, the trolling motor kicks on and works as intended. I flip the switch into reverse mode, and nothing happens. If I manually reverse the power and ground wire of the motor at the PWM and test again, I get reverse working as it should, and no forward. It seems the like 3 way polarity reversing switch isn't working. Here's what I've tried / tested so far: 1. I've done continuity testing across the 3 wires in the switch and they all have good connection from one end to the other (all the way to the back of the pins on the PWM board and to the solder joints on the switch) 2. I've tested multiple switches 3. I've tested multiple PWM units / controllers 4. I've bypassed the speed / direction controls in the trolling motor head and wired directly to the motor itself 5. I've manually reversed the trolling motor power / ground wire at the PWM to make sure the trolling motor would run in forward and reverse directions at this point, the only thing I can think is that maybe BOTH of the 3 way switches are bad ? I have more switches coming from amazon today to test that theory, but if anyone has any other ideas I can try, please let me know. Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I am new to these forums, so I apologize if I did not post this correctly the first time. Hey guys, I am new to the forum here, but have used it for ideas and different mods on my Pelican Bass Raider 10E, so thank you for all of that. I was wondering if anyone has had any issues with the 8AWG wiring that is pre-wired in the boat. I have mine set up so that I can run my 55lb thrust MinnKota Traxxis in the back of the boat, and keep the battery up front. I am a big boy (275lbs on a good day), so as I stand towards the back/center, I can keep the extra weight of the 12V battery up front to keep things balanced. I recently purchased the TM plug to utilize the wiring inside. my second time out, the 40amp inline fuse melted, but didn't pop the fuse. After reading up on this, it seemed that this might have been because of a poor connection inside the fuse. To replace it I purchased and am waiting on a 40amp inline flat fuse holder which I am going to install upfront, closer to the battery. My concern however is that the 55lb TM may push too much amperage for the length of the 8AWG wire and the 40amp flat fuse i just purchased. Has anyone had any issues after switching to a new flat fuse with the fuse constantly popping, or still with the fuse holder melting. Any help would be appreciated from the #plasticboatnation!!! Thanks, Dennis

Just got another bass boat a week ago, this is my second bass boat. I got it for a great deal. I'm confused to how it works. It looks like an on board charger, not sure how it works and why there all the wires are going to one single battery. My pro craft is newer and has a plug in right next to the passenger seat. That's why I'm confused. Hopefully this doesn't sound dumb! Any help would be appreciated. Black box is in pictures.

Has anyone ran wires to the front of a Tracker Pro 170? I am looking to mount a couple lights to the front, next to the trolling motor, and was curious what the best way to get the power up there is. Thanks

I bought some LED lights to add to my deck. I have never ran lights/wiring before and I am looking for some advice on how to hook them up to my switch panel. I have seen some videos online about how to wire a complete switch panel, but they are all about a complete wiring with a new switch panel. I already have a switch panel with an open spot to add something. I have 4 lights that I want to add. Does anyone know of an article or video I can use? Or does anyone here have any advice? Not sure if it maters, but I have a Ranger 170VS. Thanks!

okay guys im looking to redo my v hull aluminum boat this winter, i plan on running 3 things on board, a 12v 1100gph bilge, a helix 5 g2 gps and either a minn kota traxxis 45 or a traxxis 55. my question for everyone here is what do you think the best setup would be battery wise? I'm completely in the dark I don't really know what would be needed. I know the draw on the helix 5 is 600mA so if someone could point me in the right direction or at least give me a hand figuring it out i would be quite grateful

Last year I added a 5th battery to my boat, to keep my electronics off my starting battery. I put the battery, and the single bank charger for it, in the back of the boat next to the starting battery...because it seemed like the thing to do. This year, I'm upgrading my 998 SI and 798 SI to Helix G2N units...and as part of that process, I'm going to pull the battery and charger out of the back of the boat and move it up front. After running the boat all season with the extra battery and charger back there...I just didn't like the way it was affecting how the boat trimmed out and ran. Seems like a little thing...but I could tell the difference. This will give me the opportunity to keep the wiring completely separate from everything else...Wires won't be running near anything else (except where the cords have to come up through the dash for the console unit). I'm not going to go overboard with shielding or any of that...but I'm wondering if anyone else here has done anything like this, and if so if you've any thoughts you'd share?

I had grown tired of looking at the numerous wires for my locators and wanted a more professional looking install. I ended up picking up a cheap rod sock at Walmart for somewhere in the neighborhood of $3. For the price of that and a few zip ties, I had what I wanted and I think it turned out pretty well. Hopefully this helps someone out looking to do something similar.

Hey Guys, I have an all electric 16' fiber glass jon boat that i bought used a little over 6 months ago. (The reservoirs i fish at are electric only) Its been a long journey getting it water ready but, it finally floats. I'm looking into getting it wired properly (I have minimal experience). I'd love to hear your advice on which products to buy as well as, installation how to's. an affordable led lighting system, for those early mornings. A switch panel to cut on and off my led's, my bilge pump, and if possible; cut on and off my 2 transom mounted 55# electric motors. I wont need to adjust the speed on them, i only use them for "speed". Alright, Whatcha got for me?

A friend of mine replaced the batteries in his Lowe Tahiti Deck boat. It is a 24 volt system after replacing the batteries the trolling motor was dead. We checked the batteries and fuses all were good. We suspected the the batteries weren't connected properly and and switched the ground leads on the battery. The motor worked briefly acting like it was a near dead battery but that wasn't the case. There are only 2 wires going to the trolling motor from the back of the boat. The connector that the the cable going to the front has red/blue tracer, black blue tracer, Red and black on the battery side I thought maybe the black wires were tied together at the connector but when I ohmed them out I only read a short one way. So my guess here must be an isolation circuit in the connecter and that has failed so no 24 volts to the motor. We reconnected the batteries like they were in a photo the owner took before disconnecting them. Any thoughts or information would be appreciated.

What do you feel is most reliable, simple horn with thumb button switch for 16Ft. aluminum? Any experienced issues with horn switch? Wiring issues? Shorts? Battery drain issues? Thanks

Hey guys, I just recently decided to redo my bass tracker. I ordered two lowrance has touch 9 and the sonic hub system. The wiring in my boat is very confusing due to the previous owners inexperience and i need some advice! Currently there are three batteries(two for trolling motor and one for engine). I want to run direct power to my systems with a toggle switch. What kind of battery do i need and how, if i should, can i change how my batteries are set up now? Thanks, Matt.