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Found 40 results

  1. Esox pro
    I use fluorocarbon main line and was wondering if it weakened from heat eventually even though it s’more durable then mono as some say it does and others say it doesn’t, do you change it when it turns a milky color
  2. bwjay
    I got some 15lb Tatsu FC on sale over Black Friday which is the only reason I bought it. It's dang expensive. My main plan for it was to use for football and flipping/pitching jigs, though obviously I would use it for other things but that was my intention. My previous history with FC as a mainline was 14lb Sniper which blew up on the 10th cast and I had to cut over half the spool off, so I was still pretty hesitant to try FC as a mainline again. (Trying 12lb Assassin right now and it's behaving, just not as tooth resistant as I'd hope!) I spooled up the Tatsu on my Bantam HG last month and started using it recently. I was not impressed by the amount of memory in the line; quite a bit of coiling right off the spool. It didn't cast great either, and it took me a while to dial in my reel to avoid backlashes/overruns at all costs, which meant less casting distance of course. After I got it dialed in, though, I was able to start backing off the spool tension a little, keeping braking on the higher side. Then I took it out for Memorial Day weekend and ended up throwing jerkbaits on it the entire time. I would have used 12lb Assassin from my other combo, but I didn't have that rod with me. The Rerange 110 casts like a dream with it, and you know what? All that memory works itself out within the first 10-15 mins of fishing, and the line actually becomes fairly limp. I was surprised at just how pleasing it became to fish with straight fluoro. Working a jerkbait was no problem with no guide wraps to speak of (except 1 or 2 in maybe 10 hours of jerkbait fishing). I found that the line has just the right amount of stretch and pairs nicely with with my Helium3 (6'9MHXF) which I THOUGHT was too soft of a rod for jerkbaits (how wrong I was!). I didn't observe much memory/coiling causing the jerkbait to move when I paused it, and the Rerange suspends basically perfectly with it. I did also nut up and finally threw my precious Vision 110 (risky biz in pike territory) and though it didn't get as deep as the Rerange, I caught 3 species in 5-10 mins on it. It was a dreamy setup if I'm being honest. I haven't used jerkbaits before due to being limited to the bank, but now I am love with them. I'm officially sold on Tatsu. Once the coils work themselves out, it becomes very well behaved. Even though 15lb line is a bit heavy for jerkbaits, it worked great and gave me some extra confidence that I MIGHT not get bit off by a pike. I will likely still use the 15lb Tatsu for jerkbaits in the future because of how well it performed. Two thumbs up for this truly premium fluorocarbon.
  3. Etxwormwiggler
    Recently ordered some gear from and they included a free spool of 25lb fluoro with my order. I use 10 lb and 15 lb fluoro for most applications, with the exception of 50 lb braid for my frogging, and pitching into heavy cover. My question is what should I use the 25 lb for? Maybe a leader on my flipping/pitching set up? Seems like it’d be a bit too big for anything else. Do any of you have experience using fluoro that heavy?
  4. el Largo
    I've had some frustrating experiences with fluoro and am considering making the switch to copoly mostly for wacky rigging with my spinning rod on shallow waters. I'd appreciate any advice/recommendations on which line provides the most reliability when paired up with a spinning rod, as well as brand recommendations. I also believe that you (should) get what your pay for and don't mind investing in a high quality line. Additionally, please share any insights related to the role of the reel that I should take into consideration too. My current set up is a ML/EF spinning rod with an old Shimano Sienna FD 4000. Thank you.
  5. bwjay
    I noticed recently that when trying to get snags free, knowing I would probably be breaking line (using my hands to pull, not the rod/reel), that the fluoro side of my double uni leader knot was breaking. In the past, it was the lure/snap that would break off. Not often, considering I rarely snag so bad that I have to break the line, but recently I've been bank fishing and casting in/around trees where my lure gets wrapped around a branch and there's no way I can do anything but break/cut it. Now, I didn't test the breaking strength when I got the line. I'm using Sunline Sniper FC, 3 months old, 10lb and 14lb, as a leader, paired with 15lb PowerPro and 40lb Super8SlickV2, respectively. I had no issues with breakage before. But now that I've had multiple breakoffs at my leader knot, I'm becoming concerned. So, today I tested something. I have some 10lb weights that have a hole in the middle, so I have some paracord tied through there with a loop that I can hook onto. I tied a big VMC snap onto one end of the line and put a glove on my hand, wrapped line around it, and gently pulled up. With all knots, I used a Palomar knot, wetted decently with saliva before pulling the snap through the loop, and wetted decently again before pulling tight. Here are the results: 14lb Sniper + 20lb weight: broke before getting the weight into the air, probably 2/3 of the total weight, no surprise 14lb Sniper + 10lb weight: broke before getting the weight into the air, at/inside the Palomar knot 14lb Sniper + 10lb weight: broke before getting the weight into the air, at/inside the Palomar knot again 14lb Sniper + 10lb weight + more saliva and slower/more deliberate knot: got all 10lbs into the air and held it there steady for 20-30 sec, then started pulling up hard on it to add more downward force, caused it to break at/inside the Palomar knot after that 10lb Sniper + 10lb weight: broke before getting the weight into the air, probably 1/2 the total weight. WOW was this upsetting. I didn't try any more with the 10lb Sniper as I was pretty annoyed at this point. It is possible I would have gotten it into the air but I doubt it. So, my question is, what's the deal? This fluoro is only 3 months old. It's been kept out of sunlight as much as possible (in a bag 95% of the time). The ONLY thing I can think of, is that, on a canoe trip in June, I had both spools in their plastic boxes inside a canvas(?) pouch on the side of my backpack. This canvas pouch has a zipper and but no ventilation holes. The backpack sat on the floor of the canoe which basically always had a small amount of water in it. My backpack bottom was almost always wet to some degree. Is it possible that excessive wetness and possibly mild heat (mid-70s) caused the line to weaken significantly? The line was in the plastic box it comes in, so it's not like it was sitting in tons of water, but the pouch it was in was wet a fair amount of time and didn't dry out quickly, so it was probably humid inside the pouch. Could this really cause the line to weaken so significantly? Needless to say, I feel like I can't trust the line anymore, so I bought some more, and will be keeping it in a hard plastic container away from water, air, and sunlight. But I would still like to know what the heck happened.
  6. ItsHardwick
    So, I got tired of respooling over and over and over and went to braid on all my reels this year. I fish braid to a leader on 90% of my presentations, the only reel that doesn’t have braid on it is on my cranking rod. Turns out replacing leaders all the time is a hassle too haha! And also I can just tell sometimes that braid is just not the best tool for the job. When I’m trying to get a swimbait to stay down for example and I can clearly see that most of the line is still floating in front of the bait, or it takes ages for a bait to actually get to the bottom when in reality it shouldn’t. So im going to order up some spools of flouro to switch out on some of my reels. I know braid has its place and I’ll be leaving it on some rods for applications where it makes sense. Im just wondering what y’all are using? What casts the best? What brand and size do you like to use for what? Basically, help a brother out and tell me what you’d be ordering if you were me and why. Thanks in advance fellas
  7. Shak Muscles
    So I used to be a regular Mono user, using 12lb straight mono. But for some reason the line kept breaking out of nowhere and I didn't like the slack feel to the line since I mainly fish senkos and I could barely tell when the bass bit it. So a few days ago I switched to a braid with fluoro leader combo and I went out and got 20lb power pro braid and 14lb berkely vanish fluoro. I have been trying the FG knot since I heard its the strongest knot out there, but it keeps coming loose and breaking off. The line is fine but I keep losing my leader at the knot and all my senkos too! Am I just tying the knot wrong or is it a problem of my braid being heavier than my fluoro? I didn't realize that the braid had to be lighter than fluoro whenever I saw a forum about braid to fluoro leaders everyone had much heavier braid than their fluoro leaders so I went out and did the same. But I read the the fluoro has to be thicker than the braid for the FG knot to work. So is the FG knot breaking off because I'm tying it wrong or is it because my braid is a heavier pound test than my fluoro?
  8. WI_Angler1989
    Hi folks, I want to weigh the opinions of my fellow Smallie aficionados on your Favorite Fluorocarbon Line to use as Leader Material. I'm talking bottom contact, rocks abound, tubes, small jigs, craws, etc. I fish a lot of rocky rivers with fast current, so line control can be sketchy at the beat of times. Abrasion resistance is key! I fish braided line as a main (obviously?), so how limp or manageable a fluoro is or isn't doesn't necessarily make or break it for me. So, do you guys have a favorite? Is there one line that has rarely let you down? I've had a 330yd spool of Sunline Super Sniper for, literally, years now. Using it only as leaders makes it last and last. It served me well, but it seems I got lucky, as many people have had serious quality control issues with Sunline. That price tag is hard to stomach when it could easily be garbage based on a daunting amount of reviews... Thanks in advance! And feel free to counter my braid-fluoro preference if you have another line you prefer.
  9. BigBassCatcher
    I know most people that use 10 ft+ of a leader, but I only use a 2 foot fluorocarbon leader on my braid. I have a 20 lb leader tied on to 40 lb braid. Is using only a 2 foot leader pointless? Will bass still be line shy or will the 2 feet offer enough of a buffer that the bass won't be able to comprehend that the braid is actually indirectly connected to the lure? Also, is 20lb leader overkill? Since your line is only as strong as the weakest link, I didn't want to use too light of a leader so I can avoid breaking off. I also use 2 foot leader because my rod has microguides and knots don't make it through very well, so I tend to make my leaders short so that I don't have to bring the knot into the guides. Is this a silly strategy?
  10. DaddyTactics
    So, while I have fallen victim to my share of broken lines and lost lures, I often wonder whether or not I’m pairing my line with the right tackle; obviously not! In my search for answers, very specific answers at that, I’ve come across what seems to have been the most thorough and yet efficient article on ‘bassfishin’ website titled fishing-line-guide [I couldn’t add link for some reason]. I mean, yes!!! Finally, a very detailed article, but... wow! I couldn’t help but feeling like my three rod, three reel arsenal will get me no where. I realize that there ideal setups per technique or presentation but where’s the middle of the road? How can I make the most out of a reel without having to switch out the line with each lure change? For example, if one of my rod and reel combos can work many techniques and handle (obviously) the weight of many lures but technically based on the article requires a different line for each, how do I get around having to switch out the line? Does anyone have better recommendations? I fish (freshwater) with monofilament because I’m fairly new to fishing and that’s what’s always recommended to me. My current reels and rods are as follows: G.Loomis Mag Bass 782c 6’6” Med Fast Mag Bass 844c 7’ Heavy Fast Crankbait 864C DF 7’2” Med-Heavy Mod Shimano Chronarch 200E7 7.0:1 Curado K 6.2:1 & 8.5:1
  11. DaddyTactics
    For lack of better words, can someone please explain Line Capacity/Test as if you were teaching a child! I've read many posts on the subject but there's so much fisherman jargon and technical terms that I'm a tad confused. I'm new to fishing in regards to finally purchasing my own tackle, rather then just showing up to the lake/ocean and fishing with a buddy's gear. As an example, I got an amazing deal on a few highend rods and one of the reels I purchased new and nearly free, was a Chronarch 200e7. The specs on the box read: Nylon Mono / lb. (yds.) -- 8(180) • 10(155) • 14(110) PowerPro Braided -- 30(190) • 50(120) • 65(80) Nylon Mono -- 8(180) • 10(155) • 14(110) Fil Tresse PowerPro -- 30(190) • 50(120) • 65(80) Lol, I'm so confused! Help, please! I'm looking to purchase a Mono, Braided, and Fluorocarbon Line but I don't know what I'm suppose to purchase for this particular reel or the others for that matter.
  12. Wewlad
    I am curious as to what you guys spool your Calcuttas up with. I have a 200GTB I have spooled up with 30lb PowerPro braid, a 100GT TE with some cheap 10lb mono on, and I have a Calcutta Conquest 50 in the shop, but not currently spooled. What do you guys prefer? Do you ever spool Your Calcuttas with Fluorocarbon? I was considering throwing some Sunline Fluoro on the 50 when I she comes back.
  13. derekoz22
    What type of fishing line (braided, monofilament, fluorocarbon) do you guys prefer for bass and why?
  14. The_Bass_Master99
    So I've started using fluorocarbon line on one of my baitcasters for crankbaits, but I keep getting backlashes are almost impossible to get out. Should I set my brakes a certain way.PLEASE HELP.
  15. gaddy205
    I just got my new Lew's Laser G spinning combo today. It's the 300 series reel and a 6'6" medium/fast rod. I am going to use it for weightless finesse worms, shaky heads, and drop shotting which is all pretty new to me since I usually power fish. Just wanting some opinions on fishing either straight 8# seagaur red label fluoro, 10# Lew's speed braid, or the braid with a fluoro leader. I don't really care about the brand that's just what I normally use. Any advice is appreciated
  16. Shak Muscles
    I have been using braid with fluorocarbon line as my leader, but I'm going out to get some heavier lb test fluoro. I was wondering if I should get fluorocarbon leader line instead of just the regular line. The leader line is much more expensive and you only get spools of like 30 yards or so. Is it worth it to get fluoro leader line? What are the advantages/disadvantages?
  17. Joseph Walker
    I live in Florida and use heavy duty 50-80 lb braid, i tried using 20 lb braid for jerkbaits, worms, and jigs and no matter what i do i get a birds nest and i could put my drag all the way and get a huge birdnest can someone help me, i use a lew speed spool 7.1.1 custom mhx rod
  18. smc1298
    Okay so I have a new setup down packed for what I want , I can't afford 10 different poles for all different things so I'm getting the G Loomis E6X casting rod, 7'1 medium heavy, or heavy fast action.. For an all around setup... The reel is a Shimano Ctitica 7,2:1 left retrieve. I am going to put 50lb braid on it , because I love frogging , but this is going to be my only rod and reel bait casting setup... So here's the question , if I wanted to use like a deep diving crankbait or Texas rig up some stuff, like something that doesn't need 50lb braid, would putting on like a 15lb flouro leader be okay for deep diving crankbaits and Texas rigs and stuff like that? The braid is Suffix 832 50 lb low vi green.. And I think the flouro will be Seagur invisex... Thank you in the mean time !!!
  19. Jake the Cake
    Hey all, I've been fishing Bass with 15lb Fluorocarbon my whole life. Yet when I watch all the fishing shows I see pros using 25lb, 30lb, or braid for the same Jig n Pig set up I use. I've never had this line break unintentionally but I can't help wondering if I'm missing out on something or have just been lucky with no breaks besides a few Gar ripping it up with their teeth. Anyone else use 15lb over the heavier stuff with equal results? Have I not been catching big enough Bass? lol
  20. TheCodFather
    Hello, I have recently purchase a Pinnacle Platinum plus rod and reel combo. I have only ever used mono my entire life might I add. I am new to the market of braided line but eager to try it out. From what I've read its sensitive, has low memory, and has a thin diameter. Hence my reasons for switching. I have been closing looking at Sufix 832 Braid Lo-Vis Green 20lb, which I would like to pair with a Seaguar Fluorocarbon leader. (But I am open to all suggestions) I have no idea what I'm doing though to be frank. I have heard I need to go heavier as braid loves to break but I have recently learnt about a thing called "backing" on a reel and I'm just puzzled by all of this so I am asking for some clarification and to possibly be pointed in the right direction. I want to be able to feel the bottom of the lake, I feel braids sensitivity will give me this ability, and I want to be able to cast further as mono doesn't work well for me on a baitcaster. Might I add its 10lb Spiderwire (.30mm) I hate asking for help but I don't have the funds to just buy and try. I only really use this rod for all bass fishing no matter what I'm throwing. So any advice will be greatly appreciated. I have done a lot of research but much of it seems to contradict itself. Thank You!
  21. nolantitleist
    Hey guys I am having a hard time figuring out exactly how to fish with a fluorocarbon leader. Lately I have been fishing 40lb braid with a 12lb leader. I am using Spiderwire EZfluoro it is pretty cheap fluorocarbon should I upgrade the fluoro I am using? The problem that I have been having is that it has been breaking off in various ways. The other night I went out and caught 7 bass and had no problems. I went out this morning and the first bass I hooked in to jumped and shook its head and broke off about 1/4 of the way up the leader. Then the second bass bit and I went to set the hook and it broke off right below the connection to the braid. A few different times it seemed like the knot just came undone and I lost my lure. Have you guys experienced this with fluorocarbon? Any suggestions on how to get the best performance out of fluoro and have as little break-offs as possible? What kind of fluoro do you use? What kind of knot do you use to attach it to the braid and to the hook? Also what is your opinion of fluorocarbon leaders, do you use them, why or why not? Thanks!
  22. nolantitleist
    Hey guys I have a question about fishing line. I live in Central Florida and I have gotten pretty big into bass fishing, although I being a student I don't have the budget to buy all the rods and reels that I need for different techniques. That being said I am fishing two rods. I have a 7ft medium spinning rod and then a 7ft MH baitcaster that I use the most. I primarily throw Texas rigged soft plastics with the baitcaster and I want to know what kind of line I should have on this rod that I can use with the most different techniques. I want a line that I can fish soft plastics and jigs with as well as a top water frog from time to time and topwater hard baits and chatter baits. Obviously I know there is not one perfect line but if you were limited to one rod like I am what line would you go with? Also if the answer is braid with a fluorocarbon leader do I need to match line diameters or can I use a 12lb fluoro leader with 30lb braid even though they are not the same diameter? Any advice about line is greatly appreciated!
  23. mhilgtx
    Anyone have any exposure to this? Trying to decide between copolymer and braid for my pond fishing rod. Med Fast Shimmano Carrus
  24. born2fish94
    Everyone knows I used to be a seaguar fanatic but recently I was able to get my hands on some free spools of Sunline and geared up all my rods with it. I used FX2 braid, Shooter and Sniper and was so impressed by it I have thrown seaguar out the window. I know Seaguar is alright for the money but when im competing for big $$ I truly want the best in my hands. Now I have seen some threads on the Reaction line but nothing on the structure fluorocarbon. From what little I was able to find out about it all line it seems like its close to shooter but just a step down and a little cheaper. I think it would be great for pitching jigs to docks and also for deep water fishing. Has anyone ever used it?
  25. tentimesover
    I lost a very good fish today from a failure of the knot tying my braid main line to fluorocarbon leader. I have used the Alberto knot for this purpose for several years now and have not previously had a failure in the leader connection. Today I hung a very good fish and had him on the way to the boat when all went slack. What I found was that the braid still had the remnants of the knot; however, there was no trace of the fluorocarbon. I did some internet checking and found a claim that the Alberto knot "wears out" over time getting weaker due to the application of pulling force. What do you think? Should the leader to braid connection be retied every week or so? Is there an better knot for this application? I really like the ease of tying the Alberto, but, it doesn't always go through my last guide so well. Please, no complicated knots. Thanks in advance.
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