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  1. I commented this on another older post but figured I’d make this a separate post since it’s a little more detailed: Looking for a high-end inflatable kayak. Been trying to figure out ways to get off the shore on my own but lack storage options. Otherwise I’d consider a hard-shell old town pdl or even a jon boat. Just started digging down this rabbit hole but have a couple questions: - Can I stand and fish? - Compatible pedal drives - Can I add basic electronics? - Who are the Shimano/Daiwas of the inflatable kayak industry? - Anything I should know that I wouldn’t find online before buying one? Willing to get an inflatable with the bells and whistles since I probably won’t be having much of a storage solution other than the trunk of my SUV for a while lol. Thanks! Umair
  2. Well this'll be my first post here, and I thought what better to talk about than a bad day on the lake. Specifically the wind and drifting in a kayak. I'm relatively new to bass fishing in the sense I only started taking it seriously a 1-1 1/2 years ago, and I haven't fished out on the water much whether it be boat or kayak. However, a buddy of mine bought me a kayak [Pelican Challenger 100] a few months ago and on the 2-3 times I've taken it out, I've had a recurring problem with drifting. I typically can only make one or two casts before having to drop what I'm doing and re-adjust with my paddle completely. Now maybe it boils down to the kayak itself, since it's nothing fancy and is a simple fishing kayak I just paddle. I've been on two bodies so far; one being an oxbow lake off the Red and the other being Caddo Lake. The lake was much better since I could hide in the cypress forests and block the wind, but even then it was still unbearable. Ultimately what I'm wondering is if this is a general lack of experience/skill, or an equipment problem that is unavoidable without proper gear on a kayak? No matter the case, it really degrades a trip. If anyone with more experience could give me some tips or any help here I'd greatly appreciate it!
  3. Can't justify buying for retail, but I'm not much a DIY guy so if anyone has a used one they'd like to sell for say less than 70 let me know. I'm in eastern MA if anyone's local. Thanks!
  4. Latest expedition for 2023. Extreme windy conditions, working several BFS lures on its heavier side, around 4-5g. Few catches, no trophy-worth one. Tested my CQ BFS on field for the first time. Very smooth and super caster. Yet, the side plate is not as tight as in the CQ 51/51S. Very cheap for a pricey reel. Pricey and cheap... A true modern Shimano reel. White Piranha Kelberi Peacock basses San Francisco Trahira
  5. New to the site... I'm from the Cap District and was curious to know if there are any smaller lakes or ponds that people recommend or what you've caught or heard reported. I usually fish for largemouth, smallmouth, pike...walleye if present. Fishing out of a Coleman crawdad so the larger bodies of water are kind of out of its league.
  6. Looking to invest in a cart to make my life easier transporting my Lure 11.5 around. I fish a lot of bodies of water that don't have true boat launches and it's just a dirt path or one covered in tree roots from my car to the water and the "wheel in the keel" can only do so much. I've got a $100 Amazon gift card so something on there would be great, but I'm open to anything. Thanks!
  7. I currently have a basic run of the mill modified milk crate for my kayak fishing crate. It certainly does the job but I'm not super in love with how it looks and while it isn't the end of the world, I have begun to look at some of the aftermarket kayak crates specifically made for kayak fishing. It seems like no matter which crate I go to, in the reviews there are multiple people complaining. I find it hard to justify buying a 100$+ possibly kayak crate if 1/3rd or 1/4th of the reviews are negative. So, what kayak crate do you run? Normal milk cart? Hobie H-Crate? Yakattack BlackPack? Wilderness Systems Krate? Any anecdotes or in depth experience would be appreciated!
  8. Hey all. I have a 8.5' SOT Lifetime Hydros 85 Angler which has two flush mounts behind the seat and one deck mount between my legs (only adjust up and down). I want to do some trolling with maybe a spinner or crawler rig when kayaking to different spots. I've always assumed that the flush mounts were more for rod storage, so I bought a Scotty track mount holder to put either in front of or behind my seat (see pic). However, now I'm reading that a lot of people DO troll from their flush mounts (I thought the rod tip would be too high). So I have two questions for you all: 1) Should I just use the flush mount holders to troll? 2) If no, where should I mount the deck mount holder so that I don't hit it with the paddle? In front of the seat or behind (see pic)? There is barely any kayak for the mount to grab onto in front of the seat though, so part of the track would be in the air (it's all cut out there for footrests). Thanks!
  9. Hey all, I’m in the market for a smaller fishing kayak. Right now I have a kayak that’s around 100lbs and definitely takes me and a buddy to lug it around. I don’t stand much when I’m out on the water so I don’t need to be able to stand much. However, I would like it to be stable so if I sway side to side on it or lean to one side in the water trying to grab a fish, it won’t roll and will be sturdy. Anything under 12ft is what I’m targeting, light and fast in open water. Also will be using a 3.5lb anchor if that makes any difference. One I have been looking at is the Brooklyn kayak fk285. It is only 9 feet 2 inches which for some reason scares me. But I’m intrigued by the hatch right in front of the seat and the 3 rod holders with one being adjustable right in front of you. Don’t need any hook ups for fish finder or anything either. Just some rod holders and storage are fine with me Any suggestions?
  10. I recently bought a fishing kayak and have a trip planned in a few days on a clear water fishery. 10ft+ visibility. Weather is looking like clear skies and low wind. I've only ever been a pond bank fisherman so I have way more confidence in dirty water than I do clear. Big jigs, big spinnerbaits, big creatures baits are my usual, connected to 15-20lb mono leaders. What should I try using in clear water? I have some underspins, small t-rigged craw and worms, smaller spinnerbaits, would those work?
  11. Hey all. I’ve been fishing for some time now with my Jon boat and a trailer. I’m getting sick of having to have a designated spot just to fish because of the bigger boat and the trailer process. I want to invest in a good fishing kayak. I’ve fished on a kayak before and I really like how easy it was to move around. So my question is what’s the best all around fishing kayak under $1,000? If possible to get some loaded ones like ones with included rod holders or track systems. I’m not too knowledgeable about how to add accessories and such. What kayak would you recommend? Also I heard many pros about adding a trolling motor to your kayak and many cons to it as well. What are y’all suggestions? Hoping to get more of lighter weight one! Thanks for taking the time to answer!
  12. Hey, I guess I've been looking and studying fishing kayaks for too long. I thought I was decided on a model, but now I'm confused. I'm tired of fishing out of a rec kayak. I've narrowed my choices down to these models. Some of them are cheaper than others. I'll be carrying it on top of my car. Which one would you recommend? Old Town Topwater 106 Old Town top water 120 Bonafide RS117 Bonafide SS107 Wilderness Systems Radar 115. Should I buy cheaper and get it better equipped or the other way around? Thx.
  13. So I went out to the Huron River today, had a rod with a jig w creature bait trailer, and one with a bone whopperplopper 90. I ended the day with only one large mouth, and a Bowfin! I’m very happy about the bowfin but I had probably 12 other bass swipe and miss, or get it and spit it out on the whopperplopper. Or they’d get it and I’d try to set the hook and it pops right out. I had a tank of a LM on the whopperplopper under a bridge and got it all the way to the kayak then out of nowhere just as i was about to land it, it pops off. It’s really just frustrating that I had that many bites and only landed one of them. What am I doing wrong?
  14. New to kayak fishing, I've had my lure 11.5 for just over a year now and I want to start adding on to it. I'm looking to add a depth/fish finder at the moment, but I have no idea what makes a good one and what the price ranges are. I'm sure I could research them just like I normally do with my fishing stuff, but I figured I'd ask around here first. I'm on a budget, but since I'm not sure how expensive a decent one is I don't know where to set the bar so any recommendation is welcome. If you need anymore info before giving any suggestions let me know and i'll do my best to provide it. Thanks, Harrison
  15. So in the next couple weeks, I'm looking to purchase a Fishing Kayak to take to the Huron River to catch some summer Smallies. I'm looking for tips on Kayaks and on baits/ lures to use, and things to look for in a fishing kayak before i buy one. I waded part of the river today using a 1/4 oz rooster tail, i got like 20 large Rock Bass, and only one 1.5 lb smallmouth. not satisfied with those results and want tips to catch more smallmouth regarding what to use. Im starting to resent rock bass, no mater where I go, I catch a million of em
  16. *I initially posted in marine electronics, but since it's about a kayak I'm re-posting here. figured it would get more attention* New to kayak fishing, I've had my lure 11.5 for just over a year now and I want to start adding on to it. I'm looking to add a depth/fish finder at the moment, but I have no idea what makes a good one and what the price ranges are. I'm sure I could research them just like I normally do with my fishing stuff, but I figured I'd ask around here first. I'm on a budget, but since I'm not sure how expensive a decent one is I don't know where to set the bar so any recommendation is welcome. If you need anymore info before giving any suggestions let me know and i'll do my best to provide it. Thanks, Harrison
  17. What's up, I have been thinking about buying a kayak ($1,000-$2,000). I am curious If there are any websites/stores to purchase old or used kayaks. I know some stores carry previous year model kayaks and sell them for a bargain, but I am having a hard time finding them. Is there a website? I know Facebook market place has them, but I really could use y'alls help. Appreciate it, AJK
  18. What is yall choise on a casting rod length and action bass fishing for 5 pound plus bass out of a kayak?
  19. Right now the weather is perfect for taking that yak out to hopefully get on some bass but all the lakes around where I live (Hot Springs) such as a Ouachita, Hamilton, Greeson, are pretty big and seem daunting to just a 12 ft kayak. Any small lakes around Hot Springs or particular parts of the lakes I mentioned that are good for kayak fishing? All help is appreciated!
  20. I'll be fishing a 550 acre lake in north central oklahoma. (Lone Chimney Lake) Were expected to get a cold front with some rain on friday and the tempature is going to drop from a high of 71 today down to high of 49 on friday. Saturday(tournament day) its supposed to be in mid 50s but the tempature at stsrt time will be 40 degrees. My plan was to fish shallow and find some spawning fish with a jig, swim jig, and senko. How should I alter my approach with the cold front moving in? Thank you
  21. Why would anyone build tandem axle cart? The wheels that you normally use to build carts are rated for more than 300 lbs, and a C-tug can typically haul 2 kayaks, so long as they're not 2 Hobie Pro Anglers or Native Titans. It's not because I'm Vector from Despicable Me saying, "Have you ever seen a tandem axle kayak cart. No you haven't, I have the only one." For me it was because after years of faithful service, my original kayak card, the one with the blue pool noodles, was literally falling apart under the weight of my pedal kayak, the Old Town Predator PDL pictured. The cart did fine with a WS Ride 135 and the Jackson Coosa HD, but it began creaking when I put the heavier kayak with all it's gear on it. Finally, toward the end of last summer, it started fracturing the 'bunk' PVC members one by one. I was able to chisel out the old ones and make repairs, but after 3 consecutive trips of dumping the kayak off the cart in the parking lot, I knew I was going to have to find a remedy. I thought about the C-tug - a bunch of people have them and like them. Supposedly after you get the tie-down routed, it's smooth sailing from there. They fold up and you can put them in the front hatch like I do with my old cart. I've never seen one break. I tried one out, and the biggest issue for me was getting it under the Predator. It was easier than the one I had, which was designed for you to lift the stern of the kayak up and then slide the kart under. The Predator has a tendency to want to turn over when you lift it, more so than the other kayaks for which I'd used this kayak. The C-tug took quite a few tries, even with it's kickstand, to get everything lined up well enough that you could get it cinched down. I also thought about the Boonedox Landing Gear. Those would be a great system for most similar kayaks, but with the deck/gunwale design of this boat, people that have done it have had to improvise quite a bit. The gear tend to end up much closer to the transom than you'd want for balance purposes. So I decided on this design. I figured that the tandem axles would give the stability to the cart that made positioning under the kayak easier. In the limited testing I've done so far at my house, that seems to be the case. Once you figure out where to set the cart, and the direction to point it, you can just use 2 hands and lift by the stern handle and sit it on the cart with relatively little fuss. No need to kick up a kickstand. So far no creaking or complaining. It doesn't want to turn sharply, which is predictable for anyone that's ever pulled a triaxle trailer with their truck. You have to lift on the bow when you make turns, but otherwise everything works well on hard surfaces. I'd change a couple of things. I made the frame the width I did before cutting the round stock into the axles. I was waiting to borrow a horizontal bandsaw to cut the round stock, and in the end just cut the 4' piece in half with a hacksaw (it turned out to be way easier than I suspected). So I would like to have made the cart a couple of inches wider, and I think it would benefit from being a couple of inches wider. The axles sticking out sort of bother me. The short unsupported 'bunk' members could have just used caps to hold on the pool noodle. If anyone is interested, I'm happy to give you a source list, cut plan etc. by private message.
  22. Hi, First time buying a pedal kayak. I'm handicapped and cannot use my left hand. UNFORTUNATELY, the steering mechanism is on the left side of my kayak. See the link to the same kayak: https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/perception-crank-10-0-pedal-drive-kayak-19ptnucrnk10pdldrpsk/19ptnucrnk10pdldrpsk Can I relocate the steering to the right side cup holder? It will not be flush because of the steering mechanisms molded shape, but essentially it can be done and work properly correct?
  23. walked along the Androscoggin River in Lewiston yesterday. about time to get out there and catch some smallies. if you have never fished this river and would like some info hit me up. this river has amazing numbers and size and there are times i will be the only person out there.
  24. Hi All, Looking into modifying a trolling motor to install at the stern of my Wilderness Systems Ride 135 over the winter. I have realized that it will require some MacGyvering to make everything work the way that I want it to, but for now wanted to focus on modifying the actual trolling motor. Last winter I put together something that allowed me to add a trolling motor to the side of my kayak (just behind and too my left). It worked well getting between locations, but having it at the side required manual adjustments from one hand on a fairly regular basis and turning or even going dead straight against wind, waves, current required oversteering in many cases – I think based on it being at the side vs. rear. I would really like to have it at the rear of my kayak and use the foot pedals to steer – more hands free to continue fishing… I have been doing a lot of research on this, but unfortunately am not particularly handy or mechanically inclined (accountant) – feel free to let me know if I am way off track or need to rethink everything… I have a Minn Kota Endura C2 38 lbs thrust that I plan to use for this purpose. I am planning to add a Pulse Width Modutor (PWM) – some additional reading = here: Unfortunately, I need something that can be shipped to Canada – so currently looking into: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-10-55V-100A-Motor-Speed-Controller-PWM-Reversible-Control-Forward-Reverse/264569858292?hash=item3d9997a8f4:g:1x0AAOSwiX1d-MGd From my understanding – with a standard trolling motor – this would be installed between the battery and the trolling motor, leave the trolling motor control to 5 and then the PWM dial would then control the actual speed (100% variable) using the dial. If reverse is required, the above noted PWM has a switch that would need to be used… What I know so far: · I was planning to remove the Minn Kota head, shorten the shaft and extend the wires from the motor to my seat (approx. 5 feet). · Minn Kota’s instruction manuals provide a conductor gauge and circuit breaker sizing table. For 5 feet recommends 10 AWG. For most installations this would be extending just the positive and negative cables running between the battery and trolling motor. · The Endura has 4 wires running down to the motor – these are significantly smaller gauge than the battery wires that run external to the trolling motor itself. · Two of the cables are the +ve and -ve for power, while the extra 2, to my knowledge are designed to regulate the speed and convert power into heat as opposed to propulsion – which makes the trolling motor extremely inefficient – hence the use of a maximizer or PWM to improve the power consumption. What I am currently wrestling with: 1. Will I need 2 control units going forward? The PWM to allow for 100% variable speed control as well as the Minn Kota head set to setting 5? Or can I remove the Minn Kota head from the equation, tying the wires from the trolling motor directly into the PWM and use the PWM to control everything? 2. If the trolling motor head is no longer required and the PWM controls the power flowing from the battery to the motor, can the 2 “extra” wires that regulated speed previously be ignored? 3. I want to extend the wires from the trolling motor forward so that the PWM would sit either directly in front of me or to my left (position TBD but again ~ 5 feet should work). Effectively, my thoughts were battery connected to PWM using the existing battery cables that would normally run from the trolling motor to the battery. Then 5 fees of 10 AWG connecting the PWM directly to the shortened trolling motor via the existing smaller gauge wires. I think that is a good staring point for now. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Scott
  25. Anybody see these? Looks like I sweet deal for a pedal kayak under 2k.
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