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  1. What’s your guys favorite squarebills I’ve recently been fishing them a ton as my dock is covered in shallow chunk rock at the mouth of a channel and I love throwing them in the afternoon as the shad move up shallow. I’ve recently found the bx brat to be phenomenal the Kvd 1.5s are ok but I like throwing the dt fat dt 4-6s and the bx brat the best I guess Rapala s are just productive for me. those brats are no joke. What squarebills to do you guys like I’ve heard good things about the little Jhon and crush cranks. Anyone used them ?
  2. I want a good rod for anything from square-bills to 5xds. I would like a relatively light rod i have 3 browning silaflexes but those are pretty heavy and i think they have too much flex for my liking. Ive got a orra winch which cast pretty good and i like the handles on it. I just need a good rod any suggestions? I want it to be less than 150.
  3. Hey BR, There are SO many great Crankbait colors and in order to help anglers simplify the selection to some of the most productive colors I put together this video. Thanks for watching...JN
  4. Hey BR, Just finished up a video that is seasonally appropriate: Bass Fishing with Crankbaits in the fall - Overview Hope you all like it and Thank You for watching! James N.
  5. I came across these crankbaits a while back. They look interesting, but a bit gimmicky. https://www.piranafishinglures.com/ There price seems a bit high. I could get a a couple nice cranks of good quality for the price of one of these. What do you guys think of them? Has anyone tried them? How well do they work?
  6. I've been trying to find the best knot to use to tie a crankbait. People are saying to use a Palomar, improved clinch, Trilene, or a uni knot. These are all great options, but I have two things that make this questionable: split rings and line type. My four crankbaits come with split rings, and I'm not removing the rings anytime soon. What are the best knots to tie crankbaits with monofilament and the best knots for crankbaits with fluorocarbon? Both lines are light and under 10-pound test.
  7. So, I've been at this bass fishing thing for about two years and my confidence started in Texas rigged worms, moving to weightless sticks and flukes, and then finally to jigs and smaller paddle tailed swimbaits. I've been a skeptic about power fishing for a while, but today I got on them and a combination of cooling temperatures and the H2O Xpress Ultimate Jerk Shad and H2O Xpress CRS Crankbait produced my first ever 30+ fish day. Nothing exceeded two pounds, but it was a great action packed afternoon from 5:15-6:30 PM. I caught 8 on 8 casts bouncing the squarebill off the bricks of the pond overflow drain, and also fired up a school with the jerk shad before that. I am now a believer in a jerkbait and the crankbait, and very happy to gain confidence in the lower priced academy brand.
  8. Hi there, I'm looking to get some expert advice on crankbait rods and reels for largemouth bass. I've been fishing for a while, but inconsistently- from a time commitment perspective and species. I'm going to buy a new rod and reel specifically for crankbaits and have been doing a fair amount of research (maybe too much) to inform my decision on rod selection. Most of the forum questions, debates, etc seem to focus on brands (Dobyns, St. Croix, G Loomis and many more) and less on specific qualities/specifications of rods. From what I can tell and for my purposes (I fish on lakes where the max depth is 20' in some places; don't fish rivers; lures are mostly under 1 oz; and I'd like some versatility to be able to throw the occasional spinnerbait, lipless crank or popper lures), the ideal crankbait (spinning) rod appears to be a 7' medium power and fast action and either graphite or glass. A reel's gear ratio seems to range from 5:1 to 6.3:1, but since I mostly fish in shallow waters that are under 12' deep I should probably go with the 6.3:1 gear ratio. Does that sound about right to folks? Any additional insights/considerations are greatly appreciated too. For what it's worth, I'd like to spend under $250, which is a decent chunk of change, but I'd rather buy 1 great rod (for now) and not waste time and money. This leads me to my next, but less pressing question- if a rod meets all the necessarily qualifications/specs for it's intended technique, why spend a ton of money on a brand? Thank you very much, el Largo
  9. What gear ratio would be best for crankbaits that dive in the 10-15 ft. I’m not sure if I should get 6 or 5 speed. What would you suggest?
  10. Do you think this would be a good setup for a shallow (1-12ft) crankbait rod reel combo? My budget is ~ $100-$170. This rod would be getting a TON of use and I don’t really know brands too well so I just wanted to ask you guys what you thought and if I could trust these brands to hold up for at least a few seasons. Shimano Curado Crankbait Casting Rod 7’2” Medium Moderate Action Glass/Graphite $159.99 Quantum Smoke S3 PT Baitcast Reel 6.1:1 $169.95
  11. my father had these from 60's or 70's I would like to know if anyone knows what brand they are and who made them.
  12. How do you guys feel about using snaps on your crankbaits, yea, or nea? What's the disadvantage?
  13. For deep cranking (5XDs-10XDs), do you prefer a med-hvy, hvy or x-hvy as well as mod, mod fast or fast tip?
  14. What rod should I get to pair with my abu garcia revo sx im going to use it for crankbaits, and my budget is max $100
  15. Looking to try some new traps (lipless crankbaits). My personal favorite is the 1/4oz Strike King RES. I throw this probably 90% of the time. Only other trap in my box right now is the 1/4oz B.L. Rat-L-Trap, which I like when the fish want the bait fished on a steady retrieve. I like to stick with the smaller lighter baits because I fish mostly shallow, grassy waters. I've tried a few other with little to no success, but I'm looking to give some different brands a shot. So let me know what you think.
  16. I have a question I really needed answered, what is the best rod action and rod taper for shallow, square bill, and deep diving cranks. For the answer why is it that type of rod, and any rod suggestions in the $50-$100 range
  17. I just saw a note It looks like StrikeKing Lures will offer unpainted lure bodies soon— you can custom paint your own SKs without stripping old paint. At least it saves a step. I haven't seen prices yet.
  18. I just stripped all my D20s to put new hooks and rings on. I go to match up the O rings and hooks and realized each bait has a #3 and #4 Ring and a #1 and #2 hook. Does anyone know which size goes front and rear??? i would assume the 3 and 2 go together and 4 and 1... ? Not sure which one set where tho??? I'm sure I could put whatever I want on em but I know these in particular are finicky on action as it is. Thanks in advance!
  19. Hello Hope someone can help me with this question. This year I intend to practice deeper cranking. I have purchase a few deeper crank baits, and am puzzled with the depth ratings that can vary from 12 to 16 foot. Or 3 to 5 foot range. I know it has to do with the line size you use, but does anyone have a rule of thumb as to how most lures are rated? DT 10 is this using 10 lb line? Fat Free Shad 7D 12 to 16 ft diving range is this also using 10Lb line? Is there a rule of thumb to add or subtract depth depening on line size? Currently using 12 Lb Mono Any advice would be appreciated Thanks everyone.
  20. Wasn't sure where to start this thread... may need to be moved. I was thinking the other day about the crazy prices on some crankbaits. I'm in the automotive industry and we have some injection molding machines that produce plastic components for some of our finished goods. Most of the plastic components require 50x the resin per piece compared to crankbaits and still only cost pennies to produce. I would assume that plastic crankbait blanks are pumped out in mass quantities by the lure manufacturers. I would also assume the resin used in crankbaits is of lesser quality than plastic automotive components that are exposed to higher exertions and more rigorous activity. This leads me to believe that the crankbait blanks themselves should only cost pennies. I have a hard time believing the paint jobs, assembly, hooks and overhead per crankbait amounts to $10-11 (Spro little john). I understand that the price of something is whatever the consumer is willing to pay... Maybe there is an added cost I'm missing and someone that is more familiar with lure manufacturing can enlighten me. But geez, seems like us fisherman are getting robbed!
  21. I've only gotten into shallow cranking over the last few years, well seriously anyway. Something I saw from a video clip with Rick Clunn turned the light on for me & since, shallow cranking has become my top confidence bait for numbers & big bass. I have a number of baby 1-, KVD squarebills, etc. I was about to pull the trigger on a few of these Yo-Zuri 3DB shallow cranks earlier while I was window shopping on TW. These prism colors sure look good. Anybody use these much? But it also got me wondering what some of everybody's fav shallow cranks were.
  22. hey folks, just wondering if anyone knew of any good lipless crankbaits for slow rolling im looking for a pretty light, slow sinking bait with a lot of surface area
  23. These new St. Croix Legend Glass rods look very interesting, I'm in the market for my first moderate action crankbait specific rod and these have my attention. The only issue for me personally is the size. I like a rod around 7' and medium heavy, they offer a 7'2'' in Medium and a 7' 4'' in Medium heavy that they call their most versatile rod in that class. What do you guys think, 7'4'' too long? I know its only 4'' longer than what I'm use to but I hear a lot of people say anything over 7' feels like a telephone pole. Anyway, thanks any input.
  24. Just got my first batch of crankbaits since Norman was bought by PRADCO. Made in Guatemala. I was very sad to see that. I always looked forward to seeing the American Flag on the front of the packages... End of an era.
  25. I am a novice lure painter, (mostly using airbrush) and i have used some of the chrome paint colors, but nothing that actually reflects light anything similar to a chrome lure one would buy at the store. I would really like to get a chrome lipless crank for the beginning of the season. Any advice/experience would be appreciated.
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