wishin4fishin

Thanks all. I feel pretty good about sticking with what i know. If it ain't broke . .

Thx for quick response Right now I'm looking for the 'all purpose' plastics rod –Medium Heavy, fast tip. Open to the idea of new or non traditional grip, but just as happy with traditional. I'm intrigued by some of the new names, ***, etc. Just don't know where to go to get opinions – except here)

12 years ago G Loomis IMX rods became my 'sweet spot' in terms of sensitivity for the dollar. I never felt like I could drop the bucks for a GLX. And never had a strong urge to look outside the IMX line when it came to throwing soft plastics / jigs. That was a long time ago - the last few years I haven't fished as much since my 3 kiddos have come on the scene. So what is comparable in today's market? What's the current market equivalent to a 2007 IMX in terms of sensitivity and at comparable price point? There are so many new brands / offerings I know nothing about (***, etc) Any help appreciated

That's it. I googled 'Cabela's Dawg' and found a couple images. I assumed it was a cheaper Sammy knock-off. We'll see how she fishes shallow in the early morning. Thanks All

Haven't thrown it yet, need to get out there and see

I went to LC website. Don't think so.

Bought this topwater at a flea market. Anybody know the make?

The break was occurring at the knot both times. I reeled in the end of the line and both times it broke actually right at the knot. So it's gotta be my lack of knot skills.

Golf?????? Never!!!! ( : I'm using Seaguar InvisX #10

Pretty far out, I'm thinking more than 15 yards both times it broke

I'm using KVD Line and Lure Conditioner, and believe it or not, this stuff is casting like a dream. No loops or backlashing so far. Fingers crossed.

Thx for posting your idea, The rod I'm using is really old, there's a huge chance the guides might be damaging the knot. i hadn't even thought about this.

Thx BradH i just noticed the post from Wed the 11th. I'm 90% sure my knot is sub-par. And I'm pretty sure I only use 4 or 5 wraps when I tie, but I'm thinking maybe I'm not using enough spit.

I'm relatively new to all things fluoro and have a knot question. I just got back from a weekend trip on lake Cumberland. I was casting mainly deeper diving cranks (DT16) using clinch knot on 10# Seaguar InvizX. I was surprised when the first bait went sailing through the air after about the 3rd cast. Knot broke. I launched another $7 DT about 25 minutes later. Same issue with the knot. I'm aware of "burning" fluoro when trying to cinch the knot too quickly. I thought I was careful with this as I tied. So what am I doing wrong, should I be looking at different knots? 10# should be fine for this size crank. I'd rather not move up to #12

I think you're right. Since I made this post I looked around on a boat forum and found dry weight of a 2005 Ranger 519 w/ 200 Opti to be more than 3500. Truth is, I think I need a body on frame truck. The crossover SUV isn't gonna cut it.

I have a 2007 Toyota Rav4 V6 AWD OEM hitch good for 3500 lb Could I safely haul a 19 foot glass boat? I'd plan on equipping the trailer w/ brakes. My guess is a 19' glass boat w/ 200 horse motor / trailer / fuel will weigh somewhere in neighborhood of 3000 to 3500 lb.

Ate a huge breakfast at the crack of dawn, two giant cups of coffee, half an hour later on the far side of the lake the coffee "kicked in." I realized I didn't pack toilet paper on the boat. Not a good morning.

Thx for the link!

Anybody ever had to replace driver and passenger seat surfaces on a Ranger 518 or 519 with factory replacements? What is ballpark cost to replace? $500? closer to $1000? I've been looking at several used 518 Comanches in the '99 to 2002 model range and seats seem to be one of the most common items needing replacing. I see it as a negotiating chip and was curious about dealing with Ranger directly to get them replaced. Any stories that could be shared would be appreciated

I was fish in walleye in Ontario back in the 90s long before I got deep into bass fishing here in KY and the old Storm pre-Rapala hard baits are tough to beat. If I'm not mistaken, they seemed to always have a bigger following up north - Michigan, Minnesota. I still have a nice selection of old wiggle warts, thin fins, and thundersticks. They always produce!

There are so many of these baits that I've just never even heard of. I'm gonna make a list and try to run a Google image search. This has been a good post and very interesting. Thx all

I've seen a lot of guys here on the forums mention those wooden RC3s. One question - how did (do) you guys fish the Slug-Os? Similar to a current Senko-style bait? T-Rig? Weightless? Wacky? Or was it more of a minnow jerk bait a la Zoom Super Fluke?

That's interesting. Maybe the red spiked collar was supposed to help trigger more of a reactionary or defensive strike?

I picked up one of those hard back books from the "Freshwater Angler series," this one is titled "Advanced Bass Fishing". Copyright is 1995, I think they still sell these in book stores and at BP Shops. Anyway, I found a couple of interesting plastics that were new to me that I just don't hear anybody talk about - here on the forums or otherwise. One was a "Slug-O" and the other a "French Fry." I've only been chasing bass for the last 4 years or so so these are apparently before my time. What other baits (hard or soft) have fallen out of favor or popularity since the 80s / 90s?

Roger what RW said. I just bought a gently used 783C IMX from the Flea Market here on the forums for 130. Looks almost brand new. I have made several bigger pucrhases (reels, etc) here on the forums and have had good experiences. Can't go wrong w/ the IMX, they "telegraph" almost like a GLX -.-- --- ..- / .... .- ...- . / .- / -... .. - . ;D ;D ;D OK, what'd I say?