natanestaban

Braid or Nanofil with a flouro leader is the way to go unless you plan to use the rod for topwaters. Some braids are better than others on a spinning reel. Power Pro is good. I haven't tried Nanofil yet but I understand it's worth every penny.

I have several of a very similarly designed bait by Luhr Jensen called a 'Brush Baby'. Love them for cranking wood cover.

Opinions or thoughts Flat side up or down for Roboworms, handpours, etc.?

I had a similar bad FedEx experience like BassnBlvd described. If you use FedEx, use PVC and make sure it's insured.

The simple repair is how it starts. I replaced a broken guide on one of my rods, Ebayed my name brand rods, and now build my own. Mudhole,Swampland,Acidrod, others will have what you need. Roll Tide

Alabama Power Generation Schedule number 800-525-3711 or https://lakes.alabamapower.com/ Good luck and Roll Tide

I fished that lake a few times when I lived in Valdosta in the mid 1990's. Caught some nice bass there pitching to the cypress trees. I think I was using a red colored ribbon tail worm back then. I would be nervous being in that lake with a kayak due to the other wildlife. Also, if I remember correctly, Burt Renolds made a movie called 'Gator' there in the 70's. Kind of a Smokey and the Bandit type flick with boats.

'Hey net boy, get ready"

Anyone have any feedback on these. I just chewed up my aluminum prop in some rocks looking for Iaconnili's hot spot at the take off site of last year's year end Alabama River tournament. Depth went from 20' to 2' in half a boat length. I was only at idle speed but too fast to back off. I'm lucky I didn't do more damage. Remarkably, the skeg looks untouched. Anyways, the aluminum prop is a goner. Took about 1/4 to 1/2" of the ends of two of the blades. I guess I can keep if as a spare 'limp home' deal. I have a four blade Comp Prop that was my old back up. My concern is whether or not these things are adequate for full time duty or just for an emergency. Anyone have any experience with these? The motor is only a 90hp.

When cranking, starter gear with pop up to flywheel but after that starter axel (or what ever it's called) will just spin at high rpms but gear doesn't move. I.e. the axel spins freely inside gear. Flywheel/motor is not seized. I can move it by hand. Is there an easy fix or is a new starter needed? Any ideas/thoughts/recommendations appreciated.

Check out the article on this site titled 'The Fishing Line System" A true flouro on a spinning rod is a pain no matter what brand you use. An appropriately sized braid with a flouro leader casts better than anything else and will be more sensitive. The trick is making sure you have good knots. A drop of super glue on your braid to leader knot is helpfull. Also having some larger sized line (mono) on spool as a backing will save money as you don't need to waste your braid on line you won't actually be casting. A small piece of electrical tape over the backing to braid knot will keep knot from poking through and catching line on casts. Some braids do not work well on spinning setups either if not totally round. I have had good luck with Power Pro. My medium weight spinning rod is set up like this with 20lb mono backing, 10# braid (I don't know how they come up with the 10# as you can uproot a tree with it), and 8# flouro leader. On a baitcaster I use flouro on all with a cheaper backing line except my topwater rod and extra heavy flipping rod. Remember with flouro, attention to knot tying is extra important due to flouro 'burning' if cinched to fast and without lubrication. Just my 2 cents. Roll Tide

Check http://www.fishingalabama.com/marttip.html If I had to bring only one bait to Martin it would be a watermelon finesse worm on a 1/8 to 1/4 oz. shakey head fished on points or docks with deep water close by with wind or current on them. Good luck and enjoy your stay. Roll Tide

There's a guy in Valdosta Ga. who sells his stuff on Ebay. Called 'GhostBaits'. Very good plastics. His 4.5" paddletails are great with color patterns you can't find anywhere else. Roll Tide

The Alabama is a big river. Barges can go all the way up to Wetumpka. Come check it out. There is a reason there have been several BASS classics and last year's tour championship here. Good luck, BamaNate

I forgot to mention that the Army corps of engineers runs the dam at the lower end. The number for their generation schedules is 334-682-4896. Let us know how you did and what patterns were working. Bama Nate

It's better than losing your virginity (those that have) because with the bass your can legally take a picture, show all your friends, and send it in to a magazine for publication. For Vol fans, I guess it's the same but who cares about a picture of a sheep. Roll Tide

I am guessing you will be fishing the collegiate tournament out of Montgomery. Spots will be close to cover at the edge of current in the main river. Flipping / pitching jigs behind / in fallen trees or stumps always seems to work. Green pumpkin in clearer water or black / brown if it gets muddy. Largemouths will be in creeks primarily. Primary forage fish is threadfin shad. Call Alabama Power for generation schedules at 800-525-3711. Good luck. Bama Nate

Anybody know of any good products that will keep my bendix mechanism working smoothly and not gunk up after a while. Any replies appreciated. Roll Tide, Nate

In Alabama, Liberty stations have no ethenol. Always a line there. Duh! You would think some of other stations would notice.

I see the Auburn bass club just had their yearly tournament. Roll Tide

Loosen your mechanical brake (just to where you get a quick drop like for pitching) but turn your magnets (or pins) to a high setting. You don't have to throw hard. Pratice skipping with a practice plug on a concrete driveway under a car (not yours). An internally weighted tube or senko is a good skipping lure.

Gblanks are very well made. I have three and would compare them with Kistler Magnesiums or Heliums depending on the blank used. I also have a Kistler Helium flipping stick, Magnesium and graphite series spinning rods. I had a Setyr that I broke. The Gblanks are as good as any and lighter than the Setyr and Graphite series. The three I have all have Batson blanks (Forecast series I think) I don't know what the comparable IM blank would be. They are certainly better than any BPS rod I have picked up. Well worth the money by comparison. Roll Tide

I would start by finding the current and flipping pitching the cover on banks with current hitting it. I am assuming you fishing from a boat with a trolling motor. Approach from downstream if possible ( drift backwards using trolling motor to control drift and boat position if current is too strong to go upstream efficiently ) and cast / pitch / flip upstream and bring bait into the cover. Also pitch into the slack water behind cover as well. Good place to start is outside bends of turns in river. If your only catching dinks try a little deeper. Watch your depth finder. While your hitting the shallow stuff, you will go over some deeper cover. Remember where it is and come back farther off bank and hit the deep stuff with cranks, heavy spinnerbait, jig, etc. Another thing to look for is on the inside of river bends or creek mouths there will frequently be a sand bar extending out into the river a good way. There may be a good ledge on the back side of these. Hope this helps, Roll Tide

Anybody have any ideas on this? Painted is expensive and unpainted just doesn't look right. Roll Tide

I use the screw in type swim bait hooks. I always open up the gap of the hook with pliers so the point lays flat on top of bait instead of pointing back down into the bait towards the eye of hook. Not so open you can't skin hook the point. I also open up the belly cavity so it is a slit at the bottom so the bait collapses away from the hook point on a strike. Get some 'mend-it'. These don't last long without repairing them. Also using a softer (crankbait) type rod helps let the fish get it in it mouth totally. Roll Tide