ww2farmer

Yes....and yes. Have only had 1 or 2 issues over the last few years. The guys that fish my tournaments are , for the most part, a good bunch. Without naming names, one issue was a couple of guys arguing in the parking lot over an accusation of one "cutting off" the other. No formal complaints were brought to me in private, and instead they just decided to act like children in front of everyone. I had to nip that in the bud, and issue warnings publicly to shut that down, and bring any issues to me or the other guys that help me run stuff or not be welcomed back. Another was a complaint from the local Marina, that guys were blasting in and out of the Marina regularly, rocking all the boats and creating a situation that could possibly cause damage to the boats docked there. I simply made a rule about blasting off, or coming in on that marina must be done in a "no wake" fashion, or else it's an automatic DQ. Everyone who signs up is told. and I have only ever had to DQ one team for not following this rule.

Picking up and leaving the area is the right move. Getting into fisticuffs over fishing is stupid. 10 years ago.............I would have made a scene, but age and time have mellowed me out. I am also fortunate, that I am known as the guy who runs most of the open tournaments on the lake. Ticking me off is not in most peoples best interest if they ever want to participate, therefore it's rarely been a problem. It's two fold, as the person who organizes and runs many tournaments I can't ever escalate these situations, as it would look very bad upon me. I don't abuse that position to infringe on other people, but it's sad fact that I have to be in that position for other people to respect my space on the water. I still bugs me, I give the jet skiers, wake boarders, and pleasure boaters no thought, they are ignorant to our situation, and while it's no excuse, it's forgivable. Most of the time a little kind talk goes a long ways with these people....something like "Hey guys, I don't know if you realize it, but your activity in my back pocket is highly disturbing me, if it's at all possible could you take it elsewhere?" 99% of the time I get.."oh hey, sorry buddy, yeah we'll go down the lake, we didn't know we were bothering you" Other bass fisherman however..........they are often the worst, and yet they are the ones who should 100% know better.

I use the same ones for my cranks that I do for making my chatterbaits and silver buddy's... Lure parts online part #: 4222-02 012 They are 25lb rated snaps. Never had an issue with them

I use them on almost all my hard baits, and remove the split rings from the line ties. Makes changing baits real quick and easy. For example, if I'm deep cranking down the outside edge of a grass line, and want to change to ripping a squarebill or lipless crank through the grass........just grab a new bait an clip it on. No retying. I have limited space in my boat, so having one cranking rod that does multiple things well, and a snap tied on is a pretty good system for me.

Mustad also makes one, but theirs is lead.

For largemouth, a lipless crank. For smallmouth a silver buddy.

I have a bunch of Berkley Lightning Rod Shocks that I use right along side rods that cost much more, and/or are custom built. But I don't consider them beaters. They are fantastic rods for the money,and I buy them when ever I see them on sale.

I don't know. I have never owned one.

It's more about the amount of "bulk" a bait has that sits in the bend of the hook then overall length of the bait. For thin baits like worms, 3" + 4"senkos/dingers, and minnow type drop shot baits like (yum kill/warning shots, cross tail shads, gulp minnows, etc.) I use the #2 hook. For baits with more "meat" on them in the area I nose hook them like pit bosses, chigger craws, 5" + 6" sticks, etc...I bump up to the #1. I like to use as small a hook as I can, and still maintain a high hook up ratio. Those little #2's are like magic, they stick and land just about everything that touches them as long as I don't have too much plastic working against me in the hook gap.

I use VMC spin shots. #2 for nose hooking small to medium sized baits #1 for medium to large sized baits 2/0 + 3/0 EWG spinshots for rigging baits weedless 3/0 +4/0 EWG power shots for bubba shotting.

I have my earbuds in all the time when I am by myself. But if some one is on the boat with me I don't...that's kind of rude. But if your with me and I put them in, it a sign that something has gone askew. I also don't play loud music that everyone else can hear, not only out on the water but every where in general. I assume most people don't want to hear it, and am respectful enough to not do it.............many other people are not.

I haven't even gotten the boat out yet. But I am thinking the weekend after daylight savings time begins is when I'll get it out. Silver has been ice free for about 2 weeks, but these little cold snaps with single digit lows and snowy periods between the unusually warm weather have kept me from getting it out. Heck just the other day, all the ponds that were ice free a little while ago had skimmed back over. I am in no big yank, it's only March 9th.

I have seen them make beds on all sorts of junk in the water...........they love tires. They are crafty and prolific, they will find a way.

This ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Good choice going with the 6'8" M/XF. Of the 2, the 6'8" M/XF is a more versatile rod. In fact, IMHO you'd be hard pressed to find a more versatile spinning rod from any of the major Mfg's.

For spinning my all time favorite is the St. Croix 6'8" M/XF...........pick your price range, they offer that length/power blank in many of their different series. For casting, I like a rod with a little tip, and some extra length, it really helps to toss weightless and light weight stuff out there effortlessly. A surprisingly good rod for not a lot of money that I found for this is the Abu Garcia Vendetta Gen2 (gen 1's are too stiff) 7' M casting rod, and also the gen 2 Vendetta 7'3" MH casting rod. That 7'3" has a nice light tip and casts weightless/light baits really well despite it being a MH power rod.

Like mentioned above...two different presentations, for various different situations. That being said, there isn't a soft plastic made that won't work, and work well on either. Everyone has their favorites. For me, my go-to on shaky heads are usally 4"-6" straight tailed worms, and on swinging jig heads I like 3"-4" craw or beaver style baits.

If you want a really versatile beaver style bait, look at the Berkley Pit Boss. I switched to them after years of using R.I. Sweet Beavers and have no desire to go back. They do everything the R.I. Beavers do, for less $$$, and offer the added bonus of being a more "active" bait, and serve me well not only as a flipping/punching bait, but as jig trailer on flipping/football/bladed/and swim jigs, a biffle style football wobble head bait a drop shot bait, a shaky head bait, a c-rig bait, a rage rigged swimming bait, and even as a weightless frog style topwater bait.

Sorry, I don't know anything about the Powell Diesel. My only other exp. with a 7'6" H rod in the same price range, and one that I like better than the Shock for frogging and flipping, is the Abu Garcia Vengeance. I have one of the newest generations of that rod and it's much lighter and more comfortable to fish with all day.

I am a fan of the Lightning Rod Shocks, and use them right along side custom built, and more expensive rods. You do not have to use braid on them, they are designed to be a little softer than other rods to compensate for braids lack of stretch. To me, they all feel like moderate fast action rods from other mfgs. , and power wise they all feel true to the rating on them, if not slightly more powerful. For example, the 7' MH....while being labled a MH, is an excellent frog rod and has plenty of power for fishing frogs in thick mats on 50-65 lb braid. The 7'6" H is a great A-rig, swimbait, and big crankbait (like 8+10xd's) rod. It's...IMHO...a poor choice for frogging, or flipping, as it's kind of heavy. Sensitivity is excellent for a $50 rod, and I have flipped and punched with it, just to try it, but I like something a little lighter in hand for those tasks.

They are pretty decent combos, that's what each of my kids has and they have served them well. I try to take my kids fishing when I know it's going to be fast and easy, having to grind all day for a handful of bass is not fun for kids. The fast and easy part is usually about a month or so window in the spring, where everything is on the bank and chasing, and in-between catching bass and pike, it's rock bass one after another. I keep lure selection simple..........chuck and wind. KVD 1.0 crankbaits catch everything that swims, as does swimming a grub on a jig head. My oldest daughter is now 12, and she's going to be in for a "reel" treat this spring when I show her how to catch smallies off beds.

Everything I fish in 1'-8'................except a little heavier, and/or deeper diving.

I use 3/8's for everything less than 8'. Last year I started experimenting with heavier weights for deeper water, and have not found the answer yet. 3/4's was the size I used most for 10-12' FOW, but I am going to bump it up to 1 oz. this year.

I think you'll be pleased. IMHO they are the best fixed rear iron sight on the market. I loath detachable carry handles and the ridiculous un-needed adjustments. With the DD rear sight, I zeroed for windage on the rear, elevation on my FSB post and leave it...., nothing to bump, or accidently turn like an A2 or carry handle sight, that's perfect for a K.I.S.S. guy like me

Yum dinger, pit bosses, chigger craws when going with just plastics, but quite often I am using a jig and a frog as well.

I come from a long line of a-holes, and am proudly carrying on the tradition...............in fact I might be setting the bar too high for future generations.