wonkyrig

What weight is it taking to get in the money over there?

I've fished this lake a few times without much success other than an 8 lb hybrid which was fun, but not what I was after. Of largemouth and smallies, which is more predominant there? Saw lots of hybrids, striper, and brown trout, but not as many green ones, especially tournament weight ones.

Thanks Tom! Lots of good points.

Hahaha true.

The method that seems to be the most successful on the lake I fish is run and gunning offshore brushpiles from post spawn to fall. Some days a spinnerbait is the deal, sometimes a crank, sometimes a fluke, topwater, etc. If I'm bouncing around and not getting bit on one or two lures, are you saying it doesn't matter much what I'm showing them so long as I show up at the right time? Do you find active fish and then start playing with presentation to maximize? I know there are some people around here that have so much confidence in a fluke that they'll pull up and make maximum two casts to a brushpile with a fluke and if it doesn't get bit, they leave. And they'll do that all day. I'm just trying to avoid running around everywhere with a fluke or whatever and not getting bit for however many stops when those fish would have eaten a crank. But I also don't want to sit there and throw 5 or 6 different things if the fish have become suspicious after the first 1 or 2 things they didn't eat. I guess what I'm trying to understand is should I be thinking of all the fish in the lake the same, like if this group is eating topwater, all the fish in the lake are. And if they're not eating topwater, none of them are? Or should I be treating each new location/group of fish as a "fresh start" where I play the game and figure them out? From observation it seems like if I can get bit a couple times on a lure, the probability of that presentation working elsewhere is high. But I also don't want to dismiss fish as inactive if they don't eat it, because I don't want to miss shots I didn't take. I hope that makes sense. Maybe overthinking it.

Let's say you're on new water, or your home water but patterns have changed or it's a seasonal transition period. You can find the fish, but you're trying to figure out what they'll eat. When you're rotating through lures, how many will you present to the same fish before rotating holes? I can usually get a beat on whether they're feeding up or down and whether they'll chase or not, but sometimes I struggle and wonder if it's more efficient to keep working an area over with different stuff or if I should rotate to somewhere else when I change it up. I guess when I'm not getting bit, there's always a question of are these fish just not active or am I showing them the wrong stuff or presenting it poorly? Thanks!

Fish some new water, put my friends and my Dad on some good fish, and try to share what I can to give back for all the good things fishing has done for me.

Huge bummer. I was watching those at night to chill out before bed and try to absorb some info.

TM is on its own breaker/switch up the other gunwale. This for chartplotters only and the specs check out with blue sea's charts and circuit calculator, plus headroom.

Went with 6 gauge, a blue sea breaker/switch, and a blue sea 6 circuit fuse box. Now to do some tidying and get the graphs mounted and connected to it. Thanks gents.

Planning on running 8 gauge marine wire up to a blue sea fuse box in starboard rod locker, then a couple Garmin 106 and a live scope black box off of that fuse box. Do I need a negative bus? Are there any pros/cons to using an on/off switch versus a circuit breaker in the battery compartment to turn everything on and off while I'm already back there turning on the TM and cranking battery connection? Thanks!

Found the boat already rigged with what I'm looking for and none of what I don't at a great price. Lucked out a little bit. Thank you all for the suggestions and info.

I'd really like to see more vids where the angler has a scene from the beginning of the trip briefly discussing the conditions and what their loose plan is. Footage of driving to the ramp or backing the boat in and all that is really unnecessary. Throughout the vid maybe including some brief commentary on what's changing, how are the fish set up, thought process on what they're doing or where. Show some quick bit about what's tied on. Don't be afraid to fail on camera. Not everyone puts a 20+ bag together everyday and that's fine. Vids that are 40% sponsor discussion or chatter unrelated to fishing get closed pretty quickly. Audio is more important in vids that many realize.

Long time listener, first time caller. Appreciate all the knowledge shared from the hammers here.

The electronics are already installed. I like the boat model but definitely don't like what they've added onto it. I've had a couple dealers respond with the same -- they now have to use man hours to de-rig the boat and the graphs/TM are now "used" because they were mounted so I basically get a credit equivalent to used private sale.

Yeah, I'm basically getting a quote where the takeoff credit is around 65% of retail for the items, and then retail plus high rigging rate for what's being added. On a boat that's not really discounted at that. Thinking I should look at getting the boat with everything removed and rigging myself or just look elsewhere. Thanks for the input.

Have you all had any luck in getting dealer credit for electronics taken off a new boat when you have your own gear to rig? Is it unreasonable to expect the boat price of the same configuration from factory sans electronics? I'm having a hard time judging just how much wiggle room there is and if I'm getting taken.