Smirak

Thanks again all. mick - PM inbound…

Thanks Mick. I just checked and I’m at 9” as well…. If you use a 17 on spin seats, do you still use a 17 on casting seats?

*edited to add* it’s the SJ725 actually…

Thanks all for every response. I’m now considering an X-Ray from NFC. Looking at either the MB724 or the MB736 (I know it’s a MH, but…) trying to decide between split grip cork and Winn. I think I’m leaning towards Winn. CRB elites and a regular ole $6 reel seat…

Lumpy, just not a good enough job paying attention while applying it is the most logical answer. Thanks. Perhaps my question wasn’t clear. I wasn’t specifically asking what makes a $60 blank a $160 rod. I was asking if a $60 blank equates to a $160 completed rod, then what does say a $150 blank equate to?

Not sure if the title actually conveys what I’m asking. And it’s totally for my benefit whatsoever. I like my st croix mojo bass rods quite well. That said, their blanks on rodgeeks (carbon 2 series) are like $60-70. Im not questioning their pricing (complete rod from at croix) as I’ve bought a few. What I’m trying to understand is rodgeeks blank for $60 equates to a $160 rod. What would a $200 blank equate to? I need to build a crankbait rod, but am unsure if a good blank to build off. I’m looking to keep the blank around $100, preferably in the $70 ish range. I don’t have a problem spending money, but being my second only build, I’m still trying to work on the epoxy of the guides to get them how I like it, so I don’t want to spend $150+ on a blank only to have my guide wraps look like ****.

Another question… how long should I wait between coats of thread finish? Also, how do I get a really level second coat because I have some dips in the first coat. thanks again for everything! kevin

I wear Columbia shirts. I have a very lightweight Patagonia base layer that is hooded and long sleeved and that’s my go to.

Thanks all. The underwrap is for aesthetics only. I had an issue trying to figure out trim wraps as well, but I think I got it. I use a method where I wrap the thread around my finger and then back through (nail knot maybe?) if there’s a different method I should try, let me know.

Thanks much. I’ll adjust and see if it makes a difference. I thought it was tight enough, but I’ll play around. thanks for epoxy answer underwrap was just because I wanted to. lined them up by eye too…

As I’m nearing the end of my first build, I have a couple of things that I still am not sure of/don’t know/etc… 1) probably most importantly, does pro kote thread finish have any stink to it (like “regular” 5 min epoxy)? Trying to figure out the best place to have my setup for drying. 2) most of my starting end wraps seem to be loose. Like some have even come unraveled and I had to start over. No big deal because I like the mundaneness of it. Takes my mind off of negative thoughts…anyway, it doesn’t seem to matter how many wraps I cover my tag end with, sometimes, they are very loose. The finish end is really tight however. Am I doing something wrong? 3) I think I know, but was curious…if I put an under wrap on and then wrapped my hook keeper on that, the under wrap isn’t epoxied first, is it? Meaning, I epoxy all that at once, correct? 4) best way with no special tool to make sure guides are in alignment. Thanks again! Kevin

Thanks for the science/geek talk I have no idea what you mean, but I’ll take it!

Yeah, bfs is a subjective topic for sure. I’ve got a spinning setup that I use for ds, ned, etc. But, I don’t want to go get a bfs specific reel either. I was thinking an slx in a 7:x (or similar - have 2 lews $100 reels and they are bulletproof)

Not sure if it needs to be here or in the actual “rod” section…move accordingly if necessary. Just got through with the mudhole class building a MLF casting rod, 7’. I don’t have anything this light, but I was thinking BFS maybe?

Thanks all for the help… As for the epoxy question, I have to agree that it really doesn’t have a shelf life. That is unless you’re building product for NASA (previous career) and everything has a shelf life. A lot of why our products were shelf life was due to the fact that it had been developed for a specific purpose under specific conditions. We were in large scale carbon fiber composite components for the space industry. What is generally not shown, nor understood is the out of freezer limits for the carbon fiber pre preg. Ours had to be laid up and under vacuum within 48 hrs or the resin in the pre preg wouldn’t cure correctly. Kevin

I’ve got about 5 pair of the cuda’s. Couldn’t find any of them the other day…went to academy to get a couple more pair. All they had were the larger Googan squad brand scissors so I gave those a shot. They promptly found their way to the bottom of the garbage can at the boat dock. They are like a 4” blade, but only like 1/2” of that is serrated for braid cutting, and the other 3 1/2” are smooth. So, like the cuda’s, why don’t you just make the entire blade serrated? I pick up a few pair every couple months. I use them for everything around the house…

I looked again at the kit, and I was provided with the kit PK-24ml. This includes 2 syringes, 12cc of each, and according to the site, that should be enough for about 4 rods…so, for now, I think I’m set.

Thanks both. I’ll wait until after the class to buy more. I just said high build because it’s got to be better, right? It’s like $2 more than the regular build!

Quick Qurstion (misspelled on accident, but that’s actually how we pronounce it in my household!). I bought the beginner online class kit which is coming up next week. I know some saw my other thread about a beginner, so I won’t rehash those details, but I have the kit and a second blank with all the necessary components aside from thread finish. Is the high build pro kote what everyone uses, or is there a better alternative at MH? Reason I said MH is I have a gift certificate. Also, does anyone know how many rods the 2oz container covers vs the 4oz? Thanks, Kevin

Update - so, I bought a couple of “seconds” blanks along with the kit. As luck would have it, they wound up actually sending me the spinning components instead of casting. So, they are sending the casting components out and told me to keep the spinning components. One of the seconds blanks I bought is a light, so I’m going to build that one as a spinning combo for a light rod for creek fishing.

Just went ahead and ordered some stuff. The class, some different threads and a couple of seconds blanks because they were cheap. However, I didn’t get a military discount in time, so I have a gift card now. So, for about $30-$40, what’s one thing you wish you had, had more of, needed, wanted, etc when you were just starting out?

Ha! I grew up in central MS where the state bird is mosquito ?

Thanks casts…that’s the exact information I was looking for. It’s a beautiful area that screams big fish, but I just don’t think it produces like that. I fished the edges and cuts this morning with only the aforementioned two bites. One tree line separates this area from the actual TN River which I know produces. After paddling the entire area over a couple of trips, there’s not much “infeed/outfeed” to the main river. So, my assumption is that while not stagnant, it’s a stagnant area that doesn’t have a lot of turnover in the area as far as water and wildlife go. If you want to see a blue heron or an egret catch a fish, this place is awesome though! Osprey and eagles too…

Don’t sleep on this rod, especially at this price… I just fished with 7’-4” H/XF today for the first time. Well worth the $40 I paid for it. Actually a really nice rod to throw…. not affiliated, only 13 fishing one I own. Most others at St Croix or Dobyns, but for the price, I had to give it a shot. Glad I did! https://www.fishusa.com/13-Fishing-Fate-Black-3-Casting-Rod/

They might, but I would not want to fish that area at night! Hi gator activity area…not to mention most likely the KKK still hangs around the area I’m sure!!!