Capt Ed

Wouldn't it be much simpler to just have one agm 31 isolated to power the electronics and the other agm 31 power only the motor and accessories?

Make sure the new Echomap model you buy can be networked with your older echomap. The new Echomap UHD 2 or Ultra 2 won't network with any previous generation Echomaps. p.s., it's console nor counsel.

From Fell Marine: Approved by Congress, nationwide law goes into effect March 31, 2021. 1stMate & the MOB+ complies with all federal and state boating laws, and meets the American Boat & Yachting Council’s A-33 standard for Engine cut-off devices. It does comply with the nationwide law, that requires boat operators to wear an engine cut-off device for boats 26 feet or less while operating on plane or above displacement speed. From the USCG: On April 1, 2021 a new federal law goes into effect that requires the operator of a boat with an installed Engine Cut-Off Switch (ECOS) to use the ECOS link. The link is usually a coiled bungee cord lanyard clipped onto the operator's person, Personal Floatation Device (PFD) or clothing and the other end attached to the cut-off switch, but there are plenty of variations on the market, including electronic wireless devices. The law applies on all "Navigable Waters of the US".

I don't understand the Tracker shaming. They're probably responsible for getting more first timers on the water than any other brand. Great price, lots of features for the money, and water ready when you pull it out of the lot. Not everyone's ego requires a Lund or BassCat to be happy.

Just to double check, you bent the two tabs up against the lock nut tabs, not down?

Your propeller nut requires 55 lb-ft. of torque. Use a torque wrench. The thrust washer should be snug after you torque properly. If the tabs do not line up in the center if the flats, you should tighten until they do with a torque wrench. Always add torque, do not reduce below requirements. .

The new Mercury quiet propeller hubs have some fore and aft movement.

Just pick up each one and see how you feel. Nothing, who cares, or meh, out it goes. If you get a good feeling, memory, or or start to think I could ___________, it's a keeper.

If I understand correctly, the Elite FS 7 on your bow does not have a transducer? So if you network it with HDS Pro 10", you'll only get sonar when the trolling motor is in the water. I agree the GPSMap units are generally superior to the Echomap units but at a much higher price point. The Echomap's are more than ample for freshwater fishing. Cheapest option is to buy a transducer for your console unit and mount it on your transom. Then buy one of the Echomap Ultra 12" units that are on sale now for $1499.97 at Bass Pro Shops or an Echomap Ultra 10" unit that's $999.97 for the bow. Both units have 2 network ports making networking easier if you add a Garmin to the console. You'll have less than $2000 invested, time to research and figure out what your final solution is. Middle of the road recommendation is to go ahead and get the best, IMO, livescope units available today, the Garmin LVS 34 Plus and one of the two Echomap units for the bow. You'll be comfortably under $4000. And if there are new technologies coming out in the future, I doubt if any of the current models will be compatible. While the Echomap units are prior generation models, the only difference is the older model has a GT54 UHD transducer and the newest model has the GT56HD transducer. The GT56UHD transducer is much larger than the GT54 and some folks have had difficulty mounting it on their trolling motor. I have the GT54 and with no complaints.

Since I'm partial to Minn Kota here are two options priced under $3000. Like others have noted, you can mount your Garmin transducer on the tm or you can utilize the built in Dual Chirp transducer by buying a couple connectors for your Garmin. My first choice would be a Minn Kota Ultrex. IMO it has the best foot pedal there is. https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/freshwater-trolling-motors/ultrex?v=112011 Second choice would be a MK Terrova. Foot pedal is ok, not great. The remote is awesome. https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/freshwater-trolling-motors/terrova?v=111741#learn-more-anchor

Thanks for comments but I'm selling it and I think it's a great price.

Thanks for suggestion. I'm not sure that would help . The motor assembly is quite large and has to be mounted so it has lots of clearance from the gunnel. A shorter shaft would be nice but it does not help with using the trailer steps or reduce the weight very much.

Trolling motor has been in use for 6 months. I bought it new from Bass Pro Shops. Operates flawlessly. Has a few rashes. Selling because it's physically too big for my 17' aluminum boat. Shaft is too long at 60", I should have ordered a 45". It interferes with getting on the trailer steps, and the added weight up front affects my ride. It needs to be on a larger multi-species, center console, or bass boat. Has all the features Minn Kota advertises: https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/freshwater-trolling-motors/ulterra?v=111931 Thrust is 90/115 lb., you can operate on 24 or 36 volts. Has dual spectrum sonar only and Minn Kota/Garmin adapter wire included. Also included is a full size advanced gps navigation wireless remote, and corded foot pedal. https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/accessories/trolling-motor/advanced-gps-navigation-wireless-rem I have registered this motor so you won't be able to get it warranted. Price is $2500. I live in Roanoke, VA but will drive a reasonable distance. I'll also be in the Cincinnati area August 21-24.

I'm the Captain and for your safety, follow any instructions I give you Life jackets on at all times your on the boat Don't try and help unless I ask No alcohol You're my guest, I'm happy you're here, no need to offer gas money.

I've got bad arthritis also. You might try this: https://www.albertoknot.com/ It works well for me. I'm still new with this and have to get the instructions out but I've tied maybe 10 knots with it and none have failed.

Would you please provide some more information? Thanks.

Dec 13, 2023 — Price: $204,525 (as tested). LOA: 22'0″. Beam: 7'11”. Draft: 1'5″. Dry Weight: 4,750 lb. (rigged, with engine). Seat/Weight Capacity: 5/875 lb., 98.5mph https://www.boatingmag.com/boats/2024-bass-cat-jaguar-sts-bbg/

It's not uncommon for the factory tachometer supplied with Ranger aluminum boats to be 200-400 rpm's low as reported on other bass boat forums. My own Ranger VS 1782 tach read 400 rpm's low. It's going to be hard to squeeze a few more mph from a 75hp engine, and if the tach is off, the guessing game finding the right one grows harder.

You need accurate rpm and top speed numbers. Don't use the instruments on your boat. If you don't already have it, Mercury's Vessel View Mobile is a great addition. It can measure rpm's accurately, speed, fuel flow, temperature, and more. https://www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/product/vesselview-mobile#:~:text=VesselView Mobile® wirelessly connects,details into your Mercury engine. Or, take it to your Mercury dealer and have them run a diagnostic test. You'll be able to see rpm's in increments including wide open throttle. With good numbers, then you can talk accurately with an experienced prop tech.

Same here. I've had all my trailer tires balanced for many years and will continue to do so. I recently bought new tires for my boat and utility trailer at Discount Tire. No need to take your tires and wheels off, they do every thing at their store.

Best practice's for whatever pfd you own, is to put it on before you launch your boat and take if off when the boat is out of the water A good foam life vest is no doubt the safest pfd you can buy IF you wear it all the time. Unfortunately, most foam vests are not that comfortable to wear all the time and off they come. I fished for years with a Bass Pro fishing vest pfd. I never wore it while fishing and I was also guilty of removing the jacket when I shut off the big motor and when I jumped back in the drivers seat I often didn't put it back on. I then switched to a inflatable jacket that used the dissolvable bobbin to inflate the jacket. I had several of these jackets inflate in my boat compartments and found one that showed green, but the bobbin would not dissolve I believe inflatables fail to inflate due to the negligence of the owner's. Inflatables with dissolvable bobbin's require the owner to be diligent in regularly checking the condition of the inflation system, keeping and storing them dry, and not wearing them in even light showers or heavy fog. If you don't do these things, for your safety sake, do not buy this type pfd. I finally switched to one that uses a hydrostatic inflator. These use an inflator that has to be submerged in water deeper than 4". They will not inflate simply due to humidity, damp storage, or rain. In my humble opinion, the only inflatable pfd to buy is a Mustang H.I.T with a hydrostatic inflator. Nothing else comes close. They are comfortable to wear and don't interfere with fishing or other activities on your boat. You will have to replace the inflator mechanism every five years but it's relatively easy to do and the cost is under $100. Other than that there's not much maintenance required.

I'd love to have either of these two boats, but like many others, for that much money, I'd go fiberglass. I priced the Ranger 208 and the Lund 2075 Bass XS using each builders build option, equipping them as close as possible. With a Pro XS 200hp, I got $63,220 for the Ranger and $73,899 for the Lund. As I look at the two boats, it seems to me Ranger has focused on designing a purpose built boat for bass tournaments and those who value top speed. Because of what appears to be a bigger cockpit, the Lund was built for bass fisherman who might want to chase other species as well. Lund certainly has a better reputation for aluminum boat durability, but Ranger seems to have made a lot of progress in their hull design reliability over the last 4 years. For those of us who live in the Southern USA, finding a Lund dealer is a tough proposition. Again, these are just my thoughts, not facts.

A group 27 marine deep cycle battery should be good. The EverStart 27 deep cycle has a 109 amp hour rating. Be sure it's a deep cycle and not a starting battery. https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Lead-Acid-Marine-RV-Deep-Cycle-Battery-Group-Size-27DC-12-Volt-740-MCA/164242687?athbdg=null%26athbdg%3DL1200_L1200

You replace the whole mechanism, hydrostatic inflator and co2 cartridge. It's fairly easy and the new re-arm kit will have the next replacement date on the inflator. Check to make sure you aren't buying one already a year old.

What the OP is describing is called wind fetch.