Motoboss

Yeah I had to buy a new one as I had never owned a double blade. It’s almost too shiny 😝

I use a long double blade solo canoe paddle (280cm/110inches) because that’s what I’m used to coming from a kayak. Being 6’3” in a 40” wide canoe the length helps keep the oar in the water when stroking but I do hit the gunnel quite often. It is rather large and cumbersome but I have become accustomed to laying it out across my lap and unless the fight goes behind me I have no issues landing a fish, my reach helps a lot 😀 So yeah, your idea of rubber tape on the gunnel sounds like the likely solution! In the non fishing months it is good to at least be able to talk about it, thank you.

Yes unfortunately winter is here! I just finished up my Sportspal and had it out twice but now it’s in the garage too. I use a kayak paddle and the “rubber strips” you speak off sound like a great idea. Are you wrapping the paddle and putting them on the top gunnels or just the gunnels?

So how you liking the Next?

Taken from another, older thread stressing the importance of movement. The next few lines are from Britt Myers about his latest MLF experience at Dale Hollow: ‘’Literally, I never fished anywhere today that I fished the first day,” Myers said. “I think those fish are just roaming anywhere from 4 foot to 30 foot. And I know it sounds crazy. I don’t understand that. It’s against everything in the bass fishing handbook. But that’s what’s going on.”

Yes you have to find /pattern fish but you have to have the ability to move too. The difference between 3/4mph and 6 is tremendous in even making it to your spots. You also see the pros moving, frequently miles to other productive areas,,,,,but not at 3mph against a head wind. Distance is unrelated between boats and kayaks. Pro boat fishing is not relevant to kayak fishing in the least. I’ve said nothing about rouge roaming at all. Having an “area” is more important than a “spot” to me. With the right pattern I can fish effectively any area that I can get to so staying in a “spot” is less productive once it’s fished through it. I know of no tournament kayak fishermen that fish only one spot, at least not long and when they move speed is vital, as @Koz stated. A spot is a quarter mile bank and an area is four/five miles of bank. That being said, spot lock becomes less valuable in the overall scheme of things. All in all I’d say a pedal kayak is of greater benefit in addition to a great motor than spot lock.

I say go for it. I went to a canoe from my AP for several reasons and have no regrets. Fortunately the tournaments I fish allow canoes to fish along side the kayaks. I agree speed is a larger factor than being able to sit in one spot. You’ve already done most of the work with all the add-ons on the AP which will transfer easily. I think a lot of it has to do with fishing style also. I hardly ever sit still, constantly moving, fishing different stretches and structures so spot lock was used sparingly. Now it was nice to retie lures or dig out a birds nest 😬

I actually sold my AP120 and now roll in Sportspal 13’ canoe with a 55# Newport motor. Giving up spot lock for a more stable, more comfortable, roomier and faster canoe was a trade off I was willing to make.

Mehhh, maybe so. Spot lock is convenient but I wouldn’t consider it a must have. Admittedly, I used it often on lakes but in moving water it danced constantly and couldn’t hold an accurate spot, which in rivers wasn’t good allowing the kayak to swing with the current creating too much movement. On still water it was nice to hold a position to fish deep structure but being able to move slowly (fishing banks or edges) is far more important to me than being able to sit in one spot, and any trolling motor will let you accomplish that. Deep structure to me is 20ish foot and an anchor can accomplish that cheaply. I would venture most kayakers fish shallow (10’/20’) water the majority of the time so spot lock is just a convenience. I feel it is extremely nice but not mandatory.

It worked. They just make you hunt for it. Thanks

Cool, I’ll give it a try

I still can’t find a Lews BB1pro on sale anywhere, still $200 everywhere.

I agree with the 24v options but 36v 50ah lithium can be had for $350 unless you just want to spend $1200 🤔

You can buy an additional 36v battery for back up or wire in series to give you 36v and 60ah or upgrade to a 40ah and call it good. Typically using separate 12v batteries requires having all the same age and brand for the most efficiency. I would not replace on bad battery in a series configuration as you wouldn’t be able to balance them correctly. Usually if one goes bad you would replace all of them. Not a real savings at all considering the cost of better grade lithium batteries, but an option. And yes to a separate battery for the electronics, expensive but top shelf

I fish several lakes with the electric only restriction. https://www.meyersboat.com/sportspal/ Add a trolling motor of choice and a lithium battery and you’re good to go. Mine is a 13’ square stern with a 55# thrust Newport trolling motor. Maybe in the future I might put a NK180 Pro 1.8hp motor on it. It’s rated for a 3hp motor.

I get it, unfortunately my rhythm with jig fishing has always been rather spinnerblade’esque. Toss it, yo-yo it, pull it, speed it up/slow it down and repeat until I switch to another rod and bait, the reasons why I was terrible at jig fishing. Worm’n is my strength but never really associated it to jig fishing. I spent too much time watching Denny Brauer pitching a jig in wood and pulling out fish, never worked for me. So fishing for over 60 years I usually avoided jigs but now want it become a strength. I realize it’s in the details. There IS a method to the madness.

@Catt would that be similar to a small , less enthusiastic, jerk bait sort of “short stroke” tug?

At Tackle Wearhouse sale pond!

I reckon I’ll play along.

Is that the Hundo?

Tom, your article on Horizontal Jigging is fantastic! A lot of vital information in an understandable, no nonsense manner of writing. I now see the importance of picking the right tool for the job. Well done! Happy Thanksgiving.

I’m really liking the looks and size of that handle but it does look tiny. What’s the line capacity?

@papajoe222 you started this over a year and a half ago I I find it to be one of the best conversations on jig fishing on the forum! Thank you My “go to” is always braid to flouro leader but jig fishing is such a subtle approach I’ve been leaning towards just straight 16# Sniper for a dedicated jig setup throwing mainly 3/8 and 1/2oz baits on casting gear. Other than fine gravel and lay downs in the river most lakes are softer, weeded bottoms and Spring and Fall the vegetation is either just growing or dying off so braid isn’t totally necessary. I do fish finesse jigs on spinning gear but it’s a braid to leader setup always. Interested in how a jig is attached to the line. I usually tie directly to it but a snap is a much more efficient connection and a tremendous time saver. But is it a hindrance to the jigs action? Or a threat of breaking/opening up concern A loop knot seems like the best method allowing the most freedom of movement but not quite as secure or strong as a typical straight attachment knot, like the Jimmy Huston knot I tie regularly.

Yeah Tom the last time I fished jigs regularly was when pork rind trailers were the deal and easy to find. They were tough to rig but really have the action! So mono/fluro line tied directly to the jig 👍

Resurrecting this thread with a few questions. I’ve fished jigs sparingly over the years with poor results, because I was terrible at it, but now realizing my methods were poor. There is a wealth of information and knowledge in these post but let me ask about jig “line” which should help in starting with the best setup possible. Most successful using braid directly tied to the jig? Braid and (fluro-mono) leader tied directly? Fluro or mono main line directly to the jig? Any combination of line tied to a snap? Any combination line tied directly or with a loop knot? My jigs of choice are Siebert’s in various styles/weights and color combinations.