Tatulatard

Winding under load winching in fish with high drag pressure is the reason bass anglers destroy so many gear sets. So yeah you are doing some wear and tear on those gears cranking while the rod is loaded. You are supposed to pump the rod and wind in slack. This is proper technique used in angling elsewhere and why the same bass reels used to catch red fish won't suffer from the same excessive gear wear. No one is locking down the drags on them and skiing in fish like we do with bass.

What about the amo frames? Are those worth messing with?

USDM is US domestic market. It means reels sold on the US market.

I don't

Its a casting technique issue much like the issue with the shoulder fatigue. Your are likely casting a big bait relying on your right arm and shoulder to do the work instead of the rod. When using heavy baits like this you want to load the rod like a spring and then let the rod fire off the bait. You do this by pulling down on the rear grip as the rod tip is pulled down by the weight of the bait on the back swing. This loads the rod like a spring and then you swing the loaded spring through the air and release the spool. This prevents fatigue to your arm, wrist and shoulder when throwing big baits. Ita probably not a casting technique you have utilized before. Casting 3 oz like you would cast a normal bait is what was wearing you out with your last rod and this stiff swimbait rod is meant to be cast as I described above.

Teach her that brakes are for coming to a stop only. Also to maintain a greater following distance and react to vehicle speed changes by lifting the throttle and engine braking or even downshifting if manual or pushing the OD off button if its an automatic transmission. Using the the brakes as a "slow pedal" is going to wear them our fast especially if she is tailgating and using brakes to modulate 0.5 mph speed changes.

Most of these sents are there for the angler to cover up the smell of plastisol. Its why they are detectable by the human nose breathing air. Anything that is meant for fish is going to be water soluble and picked up by the fishes olfactory and likely not smell like anything to humans. I wouldn't put any stock into your bag of worms smelling like anise, monster java or garlic personally.

I forgot about that one. I remember in the 90s that was distinctively a "brush guard". When did this happen?

This is the only one I have an issue with. Cover and structure are fundamentally different things. I don't mind all short target casting being called "flipping" as long as the individual techniques are not lost. Same with BFS. Both stream and cover orientated bass fishing can fall into the same broader scope of BFS as long the destinction is made between the two. Someone calling a tree "structure" does bother me. Proper understanding of structure and seasonal movements is key to successful bass fishing. Without this knowledge you are just fishing random banks on the lake hoping to run into fish and when you do there is no understanding of why from a bigger picture.

Pull down on the rod butt when you feel the weight of the bait pulling the rod over your shoulder on the back swing and then launch the bait. That's how you load the rod and let the rod do the work for you on the cast.

Flipping: making a short cast "I just flipped that bait out there with a roll cast" Structure: things under water that are hard "James got hung up on structure" BFS: casting a light weight bait with a baitcasting reel and rod "Bubba was using a Majorcraft Finetail BFS rod" This is my collection of definitions to fishing terms that have been lost or re-imagined. What else am I missing? "Shallow crankbait" seems to have been lost and replaced with "squarebill". I don't think we have crossed the threshold on that one yet but we are close. I did see Matt Allen call a shallow crankbait with a round bill a squarebill as if the term "shallow crankbait" had escaped him. "Another great bait is squarebill [presents bait] but this one has a round bill [visually confused] but its a squarebill..."

I've played with these in store. The reel uses a doyo sv brake. It has a flat plate on the spool that twists and extends closer to the magnets. The one I played with got stuck all the way out after a spool flick on maximum magnetic setting. Something to be mindful of with the reel.

That's normal when casting baits over an ounce. You are just loading the rod and letting it do the work on the cast. If you are expecting a 3 oz bait to load the rod and cast like you would throw a senko on a medium rod then you'll wear out your arms putting that much wrist forearm and shoulder into the cast. I do this with shorter big bait rods to target cast around cover but revert to a normal swimbait type cast letting the rod to the work on open water.

Teach her to engine brake.

$20 aliexpress reel sold to greater fools on amazon or bass pro for $100. Pic unrelated. Just something I found on AE recently. It appears the gen 3 BM design is open to be produced by chinease brands. Rather than innovate it is exactly the same but with shimano printed on it.

I liked the old doyo bps reels. Those were some affordable tanks and they even had high end ones too. These older doyo platforms like these reels and the gen 2 revos have legendary reputation. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewbassprojohnnymorrisreel.html

Tatula ct. It has magforce z instead of sv. The sv braking profile is great if you want to cast and skip baits to targets. Best in the biz. Throwing baits on open water using a crank bait rod? Magforce z is better here imo. Save the tatula sv for a jig and plastics rod.

An emergency use is hardly regular use. If you found yourself with a dead outboard battery 7 miles from the ramp (been there) I would think you would have no qualms about jumping that outboard with a trolling motor battery. I think the last thing on your mind would be "oh no thats a deep cycle I'm jumping from". I would think your reaction would have been the same as mine "glad I brought jumpers".

My pole isn't in the way stored or deployed at all and it's super convenient. I have it's placement drawn here. Good point about the scupper hole strength. I'll have to take that into consideration but I also treat my yak like it's a plastic fishing tub built to last about 6 years. It gets cart transported to the side of a ramps then slid down the ramp and into the water so as not to hog the ramp messing around with a cart. It also gets slid down rock embankment regularly. My view of "kayak" is probably more disposable than yours but I will be aware of the good point you raised and further research into scupper mounting and stress.

Me too. I lost a bit of respect for them after that. At least shimano is shimano all the way down to the plastic bushing bass rise.

72M zodias gen 1. The whole rod violently shook when retiving a chatterbait. Its all you could feel. It dominated every other subtle feedback I would get from the bait such as touching grass or bottom. I want to feel the blade moving but I don't want the rod to shout it at me at 100 db.

I do that with 11lbs of drag. Fish are effectively weightless in the water and do not pull at their own body weight. If the drag slips on me (it doesn't) its because I slipped it with the energy I put into the system and not anything the fish did. The poor thing is probably pinned sideways against as a sandwich between me being an ape on the hookset and a branch.

Perception outlaw. Get a shallow water pole and jam it through a scupper as a shallow water anchor. Lay 3 rods between your feet and under the seat. Its like fishing from a lawn chair bolted to a surf board. Light weight and super stable too. Under $1000 on amazon.

This. I have had to jump my starter battery with my trolling motor batteries more than once. So he doesn't deplete the battery used to start the outboard while fishing and leave himself stranded with trolling motor power only

Handle or knobs? I would just get a gomexus handle with TPE knobs in either barrel or paddle types. You can get big machined aluminum handles with power knobs or their carbon handle with skinner TPE knobs. On the low end there is the EKFan brand that sells on AE. They have some decent looking stuff but their carbon and TPE paring is 130mm. I would get a 110mm gomexus to slow that 10:1 insane ratio.