Tatulatard

Yeah its something I am used to. It doesn't effect the underlying paint since it is just a stenciled paint finish over the clear. Think of it like a temporary tattoo for your reels. Why it happens I would guess the reels are built by doyo Korea in bulk and when it comes time to turn them into lew's reels then get the lew's jargon sprayed on over the clear of the reel.

Yeah its common with these oem reels. Not sure why they do it but they paint the reel branding or brake adjustments on some reels after the reel has already been painted and clear coated so they rub right off. I have reel doing this to me right now.

Maybe not on the new tatulas but the 150 and 200 are noticeably quieter after years of use than the same gears in the plastic side plate fuego ct, tatula ct and 17 sv. I have an 8:1 tatula type-r and an hd custom from 2015 that's quiet reeling even though you can definitely feel the gear mesh under load. I don't know if that aluminum side plate keeps the pinion better aligned over time so there is less wear of its is just a noise issue with the density of the side plate material but its very noticeable comparing those old aluminum side plate tatulas to newer plastic side plate tatulas using the same gears and bearings.

Zero adjust doesn't exist. It's a hard to turn knob to discouraged turning it. Both reels should be set the same way with a tiny bit of side to side play and left alone.

There aren't any cheap diy spools for the 51e. There used to be but now a yumeya spool 2nd hand is the best bet. Avoid eBay and try the TT forum or here with a want to buy thread.

I belive that one is the same as the td zillion or td-z 100m for spool swaps.

Scorpion 150 MGL or scorpion DC. Same platform but with an MGL spool or DC system. Think of it as a curado 200k spectrum. Scorpion 150 mgl on the finesse side, curado 200k and DC reels in the middle and tranx 200 on the power/salt side. They have the tranx 300 as the scorpion 300 MD too but the tranx 200 is unrelated to the tranx 300. It's actually a curado 200k platform reel.

I swear the aluminum side plate on the 150/old tat makes a difference. My old type r and HD are both quieter and smoother than my newer plastic side plate tatulas using the exact same gears despite being older with more use.

It's a popular thing with the trout guys. They can yell you all about it and what hooks to get.

Yeah but its a cheap one. There was a megabass honeycomb spool but those are big bucks now.

Td-z and td zillions share spools if the td-z is the 100m us trail with a 36 mill spool. The td-z 100m spool is a popular upgrade for the td zillion reels to throw lighter baits better. The steez a hlc also uses a 36 mill spool that is compatible with td-z 100m and td zillions. If its the 103 or 105 td-z it uses a modern 34 mill spool that will swap between any super free 34 mill spools made including the current zillion sv boost spool. USDM td-x don't share spools with other reels but the JDM td-x is compatible with any modern 34 mill super free spool. I've seen sv spools swapped in them despite them being from 1998.

What reels do you have?

Tackletour forum. That's where all the reel autists hang out. There is ZPI spool collecting happening over there.

There is a diving frog lure out there. I used to fish the berkley realistix soft plastic frogs when everyone hated on that bait because it was a terrible toad lure. I fished mine line a subsurface frog and got bit quite well. Didn't really understand toad lures at the time so I caught fish with this "bad" bait the "wrong" way. I should start doing that again. There is also a fishlab frog soft plastic creature bait that would look good on a light texas rig.

Spool it with heavy flouro and skip baits.

There is one or more bfs spools out there just for the tatula 80. There is the ray's diy and the kkr spool.

I have that on mine for skipping jigs. Does the trick.

Tatula 70 sv or alphas sv tw. I can't stand heavy flouro and the fast and free nature of centrifugal. Even regular magforce z can struggle with the stuff. Sv all the way. The tws also helps pass that slinky out of the reel and send it on its way.

I don't even worry about counting the clicks. I know what sliding my thumb across the top of the dial will to. Slide back for more brake and slide forward for less brake. All the way back to skip or cast into strong headwind and slide forwards to get into the higher dial end of middle range and another half forward thumb slide to get into my useable lowest dial setting.

10 is for finesse baitcast IMO. I would go 20 lbs braid to 10 lb flouro or in my case 8 lb big game leader on spinning.

You can also finesse them out of that stuff with 10 lbs flouro when they won't bite anything other than a 1/8 oz jig and tiny trailer or small weightless worm. I have to do that at my lake with docks early season when the fish are spooky and the water is crystal clear. Once the water gets churned up and they have seen enough boats I don't have to finesse them unless its a bad bite. The key to getting them out on light line is to gently stick them and apply pressure to coax them out. Let them wig out and try to dive into cover once they are already by the boat.

Braid can get out of its own way better than large diameter plastic lines.

Anything that fits the tatula 100 or tatula ct.

You can buy a deep SV spool and drop it in your reel. It's the same spool as the Coastal 150 SV but for the chinease market. The Salamandura 150 SV. Does not fit existing SV reels except Coastal 150 SV. Also the Coastal 150 SV will work too if you like blue.

Turn your brakes up if you are going to cast into the wind. Turn down with the wind. Move your palming hand thumb off the top of the frame and over to the dial to side it back or forwards to adjust a few clicks for the next cast + conditions. You should be able to lob a glide into 15 mph winds with 20 lbs big game and zero spool tension with the tatula 200 without backlash with a high enough brake setting. Also make sure the line is over the bar between the spool and tws as seen in Phil's catalina tw.